project 1968 MG Midget - Bodywork repair and welding

[mercedade]

On 16/02/2025 at 20:11, SiC said:

. Pretty awful work as you do a weld, underseal in the join catches fire messing up the shielding gas and then I have to wait before it burns out till I can carry on. Even some added burn to add to the fun from the paint, oil and grime underneath.

The  distortion on the photo suggests the fire has melted your axle stand 

[Noel Tidybeard]

21 hours ago, Joey spud said:

 although I've lost the 'moggy parp' on the over run.

 

is this a bad thing though?

[EmmaJNation]

On 10/02/2025 at 23:26, SiC said:

 

 

Not sure what these alloys are but I believe they were on an IMP originally and also fit classic Minis. He had some wheel nuts machined so they can go on a Spridget. I believe they're mid 70s vintage. Not 100% if they'll be put on my Midget but certainly going to keep them in the stash if I have something in the future they'd look good on. Crap paint job and probably need professionally refurbishing really 

An ID on exactly what they are would be useful if anyone knows.

 

 

 

Bit late in responding, but I believe those are made by Mill Accessories Group (MAG), the firm in which Paddy Hopkirk was a partner and which also made ‘Princess Anne wheels’ for Scimitars.

[SiC]

Last night I welded the other side floor in. I had a delivery coming the day after (i.e. today) and really wanted this done. Felt a bit like doing your homework last minute. Certainly not my best welds by any stretch but given the dirty metal and time constraints, it's acceptable. 

Started prepping to remove the engine too. Gear stick off. 

Wings, bonnet, carb, manifold and dizzy off.

[SiC]

Today I had a visitor! @Andyrew came over with a few bits I bought off him - including one very big piece of metal work. 

Before then, the engine had to come out. 

Some surveying was done to figure the best way to get it out. Also a few last bits to undo like the gearbox, engine mounts and exhaust pipe.

Decided to drop it on the floor to move it out of the garage. Lovely day today here. 

In doing so, the front end down was enough to give plenty of tilt the engine out. 

Simply a case of strapping it onto the crane and a few wiggles. 

Last time I pulled an A-Series, it was an 1100 and I used the standard mounts rocker mounts that everyone seem to use. Except they started bending the rocker cover stud. 

In the time between then and now (like 7 years) I acquired a set of A-Series hooks that screwed onto the rocker studs. These go onto the bigger stud holding the rocker on and leave much less area to bend them. 

They seemed to work much better and the whole engine/gearbox combo in one go. 

I'm glad I removed the engine as this area really could do with a clean up and paint.

 

Now for the main reason Andy was here. 

I bought a car roller (not rotisserie but a roller) from him. He kindly came to both deliver it and help put it on the car.

I wasn't 100% on it at first as I always reckoned a lift is better but this was a lot cheaper than these go new and worth a try. 

Now it's up and in place, it's bloody brilliant. Not only is it going to make working on the bottom so much easier, it puts the car in a better position than a lift ever can for underside bodywork. Now a rotisserie is probably better for restoration but with them you need to strip even more bits off. At least with this, both bodywork repair and even undersealing is a lot easier without a full strip. Just a fluid drop and a secure of any loose bits. 

[SiC]

Aww crap just realised I put this in my Spitfire thread not Midget 🤦‍♂️ 

Edit: then I remembered I have the power to move stuff 😅

[SiC]

I did some stuff! Mostly wire wheeling all the filler off. I've never known a car with so much filler on its under belly.

Also picked at the outer rear heel board.

Again more repair panels slapped over rusty bits that popped off with a screwdriver. I will get all this cut back out to leave the original panel underneath and figure where to go from there. I can get a complete heel board but that goes right across the car and I'm not cutting those support triangle out to fit it. It might be just fine to butt weld in a simple rectangle-ish piece of flat plate. 

This is the main bit that I'm aware that needs attention underneath. Further down there are just a few smaller spots that just need cleaning up and beads running along. Mostly as I don't trust the welds that are there. 

I would have hated doing this on my back. This rollover frame makes it much easier - not pleasant still (so much filler ...) but manageable.

[2flags]

Having the right tools make the job so much easier. This will be fantastic once you have finished it. It does seem that this was a victim of a 'just stick a bit of tin up there, cover it in filler, coat of underseal, then "Yes sir, fully restored!"'

[SiC]

This evening I cut away the repair pieces that were slapped on top and started grinding down the metal to have something to weld to. Exactly what I thought would be the case, it was covering plenty of good original metal. Presumably it's the bottom that actually rots out as these are a dirt trap. 

Plan will be to butt weld a piece back in, instead cutting it off and replacing it entirely. Only a small flat section needs to go in, so not too much of a trouble.

[SiC]

One small piece in tonight. I had trouble welding this at first and kept finding it was difficult to get a consistent arc without blowing holes through. Then realised I was still on the 0.8mm wire. Once back to 0.6mm wire, normal service was resumed. 

For me I definitely find 0.6mm more controllable on this thing stuff. It's much less aggressive at putting material down and I can control the bead flow much easier. 

Cardboard piece cut and fitted ready to make it into sheet metal hopefully tomorrow. 

Picture is sideways because this is actually how I'm working right now with the car upright!

[EmmaJNation]

On 09/04/2025 at 08:41, SiC said:

I did some stuff! Mostly wire wheeling all the filler off. I've never known a car with so much filler on its under belly.

 

 

 

 

 

I can’t recall reading about it earlier in your thread, but I hope *you* cut the middle bit of the floor pan out to replace, rather than the previous owner/ ‘restorer’ leaving it like that …

[SiC]

2 hours ago, EmmaJNation said:

I can’t recall reading about it earlier in your thread, but I hope *you* cut the middle bit of the floor pan out to replace, rather than the previous owner/ ‘restorer’ leaving it like that …

Is there supposed to be a middle bit to the floor pan? 🙃😱 

Edit: just been googling ... Looks like I might need to buy some more long sheet steel stock. 🙈

[EmmaJNation]

I don’t know why anyone would cut that bit out; they almost never rust out (due to all the oil leaks!) unless the car is incredibly far gone. It’s not like it makes it possible to drop the gearbox, either.

[SiC]

22 minutes ago, EmmaJNation said:

I don’t know why anyone would cut that bit out; they almost never rust out (due to all the oil leaks!) unless the car is incredibly far gone. It’s not like it makes it possible to drop the gearbox, either.

I suspect it's the aftermarket replacement floor panels halves don't seem to quite join up to that bit. Only the full heritage panel does.

I need to figure the measurements on the curved bit at the end where the drive shaft can drop down. Or just leave that bit and only weld up the majority of the middle. 

[purplebargeken]

It’s quite scary just how much utter bodgery is being exposed.

Still, at least it’s being done properly now and should a fab car by the time you have finished mate.

[EmmaJNation]

On 14/04/2025 at 19:25, SiC said:

I suspect it's the aftermarket replacement floor panels halves don't seem to quite join up to that bit. Only the full heritage panel does.

I need to figure the measurements on the curved bit at the end where the drive shaft can drop down. Or just leave that bit and only weld up the majority of the middle. 

I’d put as much strength back in there as possible - these are quite bendy at the best of times.
I can get you a photo or two and measurements. My round wheel arch car is on the ramp at the moment so easy to get underneath.

Edited April 17 by EmmaJNation
Edited to add more info

[SiC]

8 minutes ago, EmmaJNation said:

I can get you a photo or two and measurements

That would be brilliant thanks!

[EmmaJNation]

I’ve got the world’s shonkiest photos! If you can’t make sense of them, I’d describe the area as follows: The prop shaft dip is a double thickness area - the doubler plate is about 9 3/4” x 3 1/4”  with a downturned flange along both long sides (slightly tricky to form along the dip unless you have a stretcher/shrinker, but do-able) The dip itself starts just inboard of the transmission tunnel sides and is about 3/4” deep at its lowest tapering out to nothing near the front of the doubler plate.

Sorry, the above is upside down - tried rotating it before uploading but it still came out the same, but I’m sure you get the idea.

 

[SiC]

This took all afternoon!

Not my best work

Flap disc solves that. 

Except it caused this. I was running it without a guard on to get into a corner and only vinyl+work wear gloves on. Slipped down as I turned it off causing finger to side of flap disc interference. Oops but could have been a whole lot worse if it wasn't spinning down already. Teach me not to be wearing more stout gloves!

Don't be complacent people!

(The bruise isn't grinder related ... it's where I dropped a 28kg dumbbell when putting it back as I'm a clumsy cunt when I'm not concentrating 🫣)

[comfortablynumb]

Done that several times @SiC, not sure whether the cut hurts more or less than the friction burn that frequently goes with it 🤦edit- yeah I know, should be wearing gloves too 

Edited April 20 by comfortablynumb
Additional

[danthecapriman]

Years back I was using a grinder to cut a lump of H beam in half on a transformer that we were removing for scrap. It was right down low against the ground so I squatted to make the cut, got half way through when the grinder kicked back, jumped off the H beam and landed in my lap!

Fortunately I took my finger off the trigger quick as it kicked so it was on the slow down. That scared the shit out of me though… you can imagine why!😆 

After checking I hadn’t chopped my nuts off the only damage was a slice through the crotch of my trousers. Very close call!

[comfortablynumb]

Now you've nearly finished the welding @SiC, I don't suppose this lot is of any interest to you?

Nothing to do with me, just spotted it whilst browsing this morning.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/187118629649

[2flags]

This is looking good. You definitely need to be careful around power tools. That could have been really nasty.  

[SiC]

5 hours ago, comfortablynumb said:

Now you've nearly finished the welding @SiC, I don't suppose this lot is of any interest to you?

Nothing to do with me, just spotted it whilst browsing this morning.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/187118629649

I don't think I'll be going to this deep on restoring another Spridget for quite a while/if ever!

[N Dentressangle]

Your welding looks good to me - nice job.

Agreed about the grinder injuries. I nearly cut my finger off a few years ago having removed the guard, and I've kept it on ever since. Got an air die grinder for the tight access stuff, which is better than limb loss.

[Andyrew]

Liked for the tidy repair and not the finger damage! 

 

[SiC]

Realised I didn't weld this bit up. However I forgot to take the after photo. Tbh it needs a grind and running a bead back over again.

Started picking this bit.  This is the front floor pan where your feet would go. Guess what ... welds so crap I picked them all off with a chisel and screwdriver.

Also picked this bit. This needs more picking as these welds have a tad more penetration and aren't coming off without bit more of a fight.

 

Tonight I've been scraping the black paint/underseal off the transmission tunnel. The red is factory primer - probably actual lead based red oxide. Pretty much all off to red oxide now. Boring job but it needed to be done.

As @EmmaJNation has pointed out, there should be a piece between these two panels that cover it. However welding a panel over will prevent access to paint. So I need to get a few good coats in now before hand. Weld and then stick my arm down to get paint in where it's burnt off from welding.

Might get a tin of red oxide to do this rather than spray. Cheaper, thicker and it won't be seen soon anyway.

[Jenson Velcro]

That car rotisserie certainly seems to make working a whole lot easier 

[2flags]

That rotisserie certainly beats lying underneath with sparks and shit falling down on you. You can do a proper job now. 😁