project 1968 Austin 1100 Mk1 (Take 2) - Gone :(

[wuvvum]

What does "not unscrapped" mean exactly?

[SiC]

What does "not unscrapped" mean exactly?

Certificate of Destruction removed because it was accidentally applied to the wrong vehicle maybe?

[LightBulbFun]

13 minutes ago, wuvvum said:

What does "not unscrapped" mean exactly?

yeah was wondering about that!

only thing I can think of is if a car had a scrapped marker applied against it, then had that scrapped marker removed, although how it would tell im not entirely sure, (certially my tool will tell you if a car has a scrapped marker and or CoD currently against it, but if you bring a vehicle back from the dead then it vanishes I think)

but my tool is not a full blown HPI check (which I assume the above is) , perhaps the HPI guys have got extra hooks into the DVLA database or something such! 

(would be interesting to feed it TWC725K, TPA621M or OPH868R as im pretty sure all 3 of those would have had had scrapped markers at one point in time, but they don't show scrapped markers now)

9 minutes ago, SiC said:

Certificate of Destruction removed because it was accidentally applied to the wrong vehicle maybe?

worth noting that CoD marker and the scrapped marker are 2 separate things! 

so im curious which one its referring to! 

[chadders]

58 minutes ago, SiC said:

1 hour ago, wuvvum said:

What does "not unscrapped" mean exactly?

Certificate of Destruction removed because it was accidentally applied to the wrong vehicle maybe?

Given that this used to be a manual exercise you can imagine the numbers of mistakes made, misreading people's writing etc.. You'd need some form of audit trail to prevent possible fraud so you couldn't just delete the original record, not that you could anyway probably.

[RobT]

Sounds like the poor old thing is due some love, having had six owners in relatively quick succession.

[SiC]

Supposed to be tidying the garage but absolutely zero energy today. Decided to go through the file and go through all what I know about this car. Actually know far more than both my MGB and Dolomite! Wish I pushed a bit harder for the MGB on any history there was.
 

01/03/1968 - **** First Registration and First Owner at William Robb, The Kirkcaldy Garage (Crowdenbeath)
11/04/1968 - Service at William Robb at 582 miles
21/08/1968 - Service at William Robb at 2991 miles
31/07/1969 - Service at William Robb at 6195 miles
07/05/1970 - Service at William Robb at 9342 miles
03/01/2012 - Cat C write off
02/06/2012 - **** Second Owner (Insurance company?)
03/08/2012 - **** Third Owner (Newburgh, Cupar, Fife)
14/08/2012 - LH + RH Sills, LH + RH Trumpets
01/04/2013 - Colour change from Green to Blue
12/06/2014 - MOT Pass at 64318 miles
05/08/2014 - Comma Classic 20W50 Oil
10/06/2015 - MOT Pass at 66035 miles (+1717 miles)
14/06/2015 - **** Fourth Owner (East Lothian)
23/11/2015 - Smiths Fuel Gauge sender (ARA973)
16/08/2018 - **** Fifth Owner (Unknown details)
18/08/2018 - MOT Fail at 66294 miles (+259 miles). Headlight aim and tyre under 1.6mm18/08/2018 - MOT Pass at 66294 miles
09/11/2019 - **** Sixth Owner (Salisbury)
11/11/2019 - Engine Mounts x2
08/12/2019 - Declared MOT Exempt
13/12/2019 - Recon steering rack from Longbridge Motor Spares LTD
09/01/2020 - Door Seal x2
14/04/2020 - For sale on C&C (https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1204953 )22/04/2020 - **** Seventh Owner (Flitwick, Bedfordshire)
10/05/2020 - For sale on eBay ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293575624794 )
21/05/2020 - **** Eighth Owner (me)

 

Name and contact details of owners removed.

[SiC]

Given the above and that it's restored up in rural Scotland near a farm, I wonder if it's painted in Ford Blue Tractor paint?

[SiC]

Interestingly the Engine Number in the Passport to service matches the engine in the car but the DVLA have it down differently. 

Matching numbers car!  ?

[SiC]

Gave it a good clean today. Do like to have it clean before I put it in the garage.


Went to start it up but the fuel pump kept clicking. Checked the fuel bowl and nothing was getting through. Either got a leak and/or used up the last bit the other day.


Float bowl is full of crud at the bottom.


Also a set of seat belts arrived. The ones on the car are Kangoo fixed jobbies but I much prefer retracting belts. I chose Beige coloured to match the interior, but to be honest they're more gold.


Popped it into the garage.


Then rigged up a professional* grade fume extractor and ran the engine up to temperature.


Dropped the oil. Magnetic plug wasn't too bad.


Then removed the filter. Naturally this always happens despite my best efforts.


At least it'll stop the floor going rusty.

Noticed that the filter housing is missing its plate. This is not good as without it, the oil flows around the filter rather than thru it. Thus effectively leaving the filter completely bypassed. I'll have to try and find the correct plate - hopefully Moss will stock it.


Then I jacked it up to have a good look under today. Front hard pipes look copper, rear are steel and crusty. Might get a set of hard and flexi pipes from Longbridge MS. 

Rest doesn't look too bad so far to be honest.

Rear subframe is a bit crusty and had repairs previously but feels solid. Rear subframe mount areas looks in excellent condition. Front look like they've been welded and a decent job. Could do with a bit of extra paint just to give them a longer life.

Fuel tank needs some protection to make it last longer. Fuel pipe at the rear is starting to go crusty but I'm hoping some Kurst and paint will prolong that. Flexi hoses to pump are in need of attention though as they look original. Modern ethanol fuel will likely finish them off quickly.

Interconnecting Hydrolastic pipes both have pipe + clamps on. I wonder if someone cut them at the front to make it easier for their removal during restoration.

Gave the front hubs a good wiggle and there is a little bit of movement which I'm expecting to be normal due to end float on the front bearings. Ball joint covers look intact and there is grease about which always is a good sign.

Cooling system is definitely in need of some love. Pipe that connects to the expansion container has some comedy pin holes in it. Interesting to note that the radiator cap is of a pressure release type. I was expecting a blank cap with the expansion tank being the one with the pressure cap on.

Hoses to the cabin heater are well past their best. Also the heater valve is weeping.

Engine runs pretty well now. Still needs a good tune up and of course that filter sorting. Now I've discovered it, I'm not going to run the engine until the necessary bits are back in that filter. Hopefully no damage has been done to the engine bearings.

Need to get some part orders in tomorrow first thing. A few bits like hoses and engine parts I should be able to get from Moss tomorrow. Hoping they'll have the filter plate in. Also going to get those hard and flexi brake ordered from Longbridge Motor Spares. I don't like to risk anything on braking systems. If I don't have a receipt to see when flexis have been done, I like to change them anyway as a precaution.

[Isaac Hunt]

On 5/24/2020 at 11:29 AM, dave j said:

I wouldn't be too worried about it, as it wouldn't have been worth a lot of money 8 years ago so even a minor knock would have written it off

Agree, in 2014 I had a 2002 car chalked up as a 'beyond economical repair' due to a split front bumper and a dented NSF wing.  You should have seen the estimate.  I accepted a cash settlement and kept the car.  I got a coloured matched bumper and wing from a scrapyard for £75 and fixed it myself.  Wing bolted on.

it doesn't take much to 'write off' an oldie

[SiC]

Trying to get the rear drums off is proving a bit of a struggle. I'm trying the Haynes method of using the flat disc from the spare tyre and bolting the wheel back on. I've done them up as much as I can without risking buckling the wheel but no budging.


Any suggestions?

(Wheel studs are part of the drum assembly on the ADO16. Stupid design.)

[purplebargeken]

Heat and a hammer?

[SiC]

Bit of an update. Not got anywhere near as much done as I hoped. Partly other stuff but mostly because Royal Fail are uselessly slow at the moment. Despite ordering what I needed on Monday and most shipped on Tuesday, none of the parts I've ordered online have arrived.

Firstly that wheel. I eventually got it off by using successively more washers on the spare wheel clamp and doing up the wheel nuts. Then finally good whacks of the tyre.



Actually doesn't look too bad in there. Shoes are worn but there is still a good 2mm of material left before it gets to the rivets. As I'm only going to be doing low miles in this (insured for only 1500miles a year), I'm not going to replace them.


Brake cylinder looks alright. I'm still going to change it as it's rusted up something bad on the other side and the bleed nipple looks like it'll be a fight to get out and back in. Plus a new set of cylinders with hard lines to them is only £20 for the pair.


Other side I've already have a Sealey hub puller arrived to use instead.

I bought the big pressure plate from Charles Ware Morris Minors in the Bristol - mostly as this was £2.20 and Moss wanted £12 for the same thing plus needed to order it in. Admittedly the Moss one probably would be better made than this. It looks like someone used a pair of tin snips and roughly cut it to shape. Better than nothing though.


Fresh oil went in and I cranked the engine over to circulate it. Took quite a bit to get the oil pressure light to go out (even with the plugs out), so I suspect the filter is now working properly.

Next up was the cooling system. This was a bit of a mess and looks like possibly been a problem for a while on this car. Not least the brown explosion that looks to have happened in the past.

I removed the front radiator. This car has the shroud and is a right pain to get out. The purple MK3 I had didn't have this and was an awful lot easier to pull. You can also see the expansion tank in this picture at the bottom. Also a awkward thing to remove and looks like it'll be just a pain to fill.


Shroud came out.


Then a bit more fighting got the radiator out and bottom hose off.


Then removed the tank.


A very brown mess came out the whole system. Either it's been run on straight water or someone has mixed long life with older style coolant.

Replacement pipes lined up. The new one on the right is for a mini. A tad short at the end but it went in after a bit of a fight.



Then put it all back together again. Easy to say but hard to do. Took a good few hours to get that damn radiator and it's shroud with its fiddly bolts back in. Not filled with coolant yet as I need to get some 8mm (5/16th) radiator hose for the connection between the radiator and expansion tank.

The radiator had a standard cap on. This has been replaced with the proper blanking cap and a new 13psi cap on the expansion tank. No point me filling the system though until that tube comes.

I've also noticed when I ran it up to temperature last, the top of the radiator was only getting to around 75c. That number tally's with the hot environment thermostat that opens up at 72c. I suspect it's had problems with overheating and water leaks under pressure before, so by putting the cooler thermostat in it doesn't boil off. Would also explain the mayonnaise mess under the rocker cover if it's not getting fully to temperature.

I've got a replacement thermostat to go in but I forgot to buy the gasket. Also need to attempt to get the thermostat cover off - last one I had to do resorted to smashing the alloy case up to get to it. Completely seized to the studs. So before I buy a new gasket, I need to check I can get that off. As I may need to order a new cover too.

Next up was getting the carb off for inspection.

Air filter off


Then removing the accelerator spring and cable. Irritatingly it looks like someone has replaced this previously but the old ferrel was stuck in the car body. Instead of removing it they just put the new cable over the top. I hate when people bodge things because they're too lazy to fix properly.


Set of mole grips and a good twist + tug, it came loose.


The choke cable was being a pain to undo. I decided to chop the cable instead. Bit of a shame to do as the choke control looks original. However it's currently stuck half out and refusing to go in any further. So will need replacing or attention anyway.


As soon as I cut that, the choke control snapped back to full off. I suspect it's been stuck like this for a good while. So long that someone has retuned the carb with the expectation it's stuck on.


Carb itself looked in good condition but very grubby. Needle has no noticeable scores.


Some black crap on the throttle plate face. Looks to be silicon sealant that someone has used to seal the carb to engine.


Jet doesn't look oval either. Some light scoring on the body of the jet but I don't think that is a major problem.


I'm not intending to replace the jet or needle, only strip the carb down to clean up. I didn't buy the kit to replace those bits as they're a fair bit more expensive than just the gaskets and I didn't want to replace stuff unnecessarily. Given that these bits both look alright, I'm not going to get the service kit.

Float bowl was filthy. A good poke with the screwdriver and spray with brake cleaner got the brown glittery mess all over me but out of the bowl.


While the carb was off, I checked the gear linkage tightness but they were all done up well. The remote change bolts were loose underneath so I tightened them up. With the carb off, I've got decent access to that gear linkage grease nipple. So this is an ideal time to get that pumped full. Possibly a very long time since it was last done.


As I write this, it sounds like Royal Mail has arrived with a few more bits. Hopefully my brake bits so I can start on that.

[SiC]

On 5/29/2020 at 9:43 AM, purplebargeken said:

Heat and a hammer?

Only hammer and pulling! Didn't want to set the brake fluid or underseal alight. ?

[SiC]

Stripped down, cleaned up and rebuilt the carb yesterday afternoon and evening. I won't deny, I do enjoy cleaning up these carbs. That could just be the fumes from the carb cleaner making me feel jolly though...

Pretty filthy both inside and out to begin with.



The choke trunnion continued to give up a fight. Basically appears that the screw head you're supposed to undo to release the cable had previously snapped off. Ended up resorting to using a Dremel to cut the wire section in half to release it.


Cleaned all the component pieces using a toothbrush with carb cleaner and brake cleaner. I didn't take the throttle disc out it turned smoothly and no real noticeable play on the shaft either.


This photo was more of a reminder on the order on which the choke mechanism goes back together. Only bit that was fiddly to get right.


Then was a case of reassembly using the gasket kit to replace any rubber or metal washers.



And yes, I did give the dashpot a quick polish with autosol. Looks like someone has fitted a bling polished one at sometime. Perhaps I should fit that polished chrome VP rocker cover to match. It's only right on a British classic to have the engine all blinged up while the rest of the car is tatty and rotten.

[Jerzy Woking]

@SiCIs this of any interest to you?

Found ot in my loft this morning. 1968 edition. Just a few pages stuck together from water damage, but could be separated with care.

 

[RobT]

4 hours ago, SiC said:

Perhaps I should fit that polished chrome VP rocker cover to match. It's only right on a British classic to have the engine all blinged up while the rest of the car is tatty and rotten.

LoL!  Must admit I don't like the bling rocker cover on mine.  Minor detail at the moment though.

[SiC]

Before I go out again for an evening of tinkering, I better give an update from yesterday.


Tested the vacuum on the distributor. Through the brittle PVC tube it's holding no vacuum. Directly on the screw fitting moves the dizzy plate but doesn't hold a vacuum. I'll replace the pipe fitting to the advance so it'll do something. Good enough for now.


Finished cleaning up the carb spacer and mounts.



Fitted the carb back on.


Fitted a fuel filter.


Then turned the ignition on to pressurise the fuel system.


Oh. Leaking from the jet to float bowl. I thought I got it in properly but obviously didn't. Wish I put fluids in it before I put it together. Going to be a bit of a pain to replace. May have to take the carb off to make it easier.

Replaced the accelerator cable. Morris Minor is an identical replacement, so cheap and easy part to get hold of.


Old one was a bit rusty at the exposed area by the pedal.


Next up was the choke cable. I bought a Mini one thinking it'll be the same. It's not, the Mini is much shorter. Thankfully I had another choke cable in my box of crap. Not sure what it was off - I suspect from the box or bits from the Purple 1100.


The old one was stuck and jammed out.


To replace it I removed the top panel to get better access. Four screws and then it just pulled off.



The nut was easily accessible.


I removed the ignition switch to get access in for my spanner.


Tried the Mini one and realised the mounting washer was far too small. So used the other one I had. It fitted but didn't have the nice chrome bit showing. Oh well, at least it works now.


Clear why the old one didn't work.


Finally decided to fix the indicator stalk light. For those that don't know, these era Austins had the flashing indicator on the end of the stalks. At some point someone snapped off the end cover and bits got stuck in the end. The replacement cap someone fitted didn't stay on without falling off.


After a lot of scraping with a screwdriver on the thread, I cleaned out most of the old plastic. Now the cap fits on better. Not perfect but at least it doesn't fall off.

[Angrydicky]

You must be itching to get this ‘levenhundred out for a blast after all this work!

That indicator stalk, pretty sure it’s identical to the one on my Austin A55. I need a green plastic cover for it as it’s long since broken off and disappeared. Hopefully they’re still available.

[Jenson Velcro]

Oops , fuel straight onto the exhaust? 

[SiC]

12 minutes ago, Angrydicky said:

You must be itching to get this ‘levenhundred out for a blast after all this work!

That indicator stalk, pretty sure it’s identical to the one on my Austin A55. I need a green plastic cover for it as it’s long since broken off and disappeared. Hopefully they’re still available.

A mix of itchyness to and apprehension! Roads are getting busier and I find sudden breakdowns quite a stressful experience. Part of the reason why I'm going through all this to try making the first outings more successful. At least to where I've moved now there is more back-roads and less traffic/people. I enjoying getting new (old) cars but I like familiarity and reliability from long term regulars. 

But definitely want get out in it and buzz around. Especially when pubs and restaurants open up again, so Mrs SiC and I can go out on a local summer Sunday jaunt for a nice lunch. 

I think I saw a receipt that said the cap came from MEV Spares. 

[SiC]

3 minutes ago, Jenson Velcro said:

Oops , fuel straight onto the exhaust? 

Yeah. Something definitely needing sorting. Not least it was peeing out. 

[Jenson Velcro]

A sticky float or valve?

[SiC]

25 minutes ago, Angrydicky said:

That indicator stalk, pretty sure it’s identical to the one on my Austin A55. I need a green plastic cover for it as it’s long since broken off and disappeared. Hopefully they’re still available.

Looking through the paperwork, the last owner bought this: 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GREEN-CAP-for-Flasher-Indicator-Stalk-Arm-on-Standard-10-TEN-948cc-1954-60/332369762448

11 minutes ago, Jenson Velcro said:

A sticky float or valve?

Its leaking out the jet pipe fitting at the bottom of the float bowl. I'll undo it first and try pushing the pipe in harder.

[Isaac Hunt]

11 minutes ago, Jenson Velcro said:

A sticky float or valve?

I put my money on a sticking needle valve, quite common on SU’s

[Angrydicky]

51 minutes ago, SiC said:

A mix of itchyness to and apprehension! Roads are getting busier and I find sudden breakdowns quite a stressful experience. Part of the reason why I'm going through all this to try making the first outings more successful. At least to where I've moved now there is more back-roads and less traffic/people. I enjoying getting new (old) cars but I like familiarity and reliability from long term regulars. 

But definitely want get out in it and buzz around. Especially when pubs and restaurants open up again, so Mrs SiC and I can go out on a local summer Sunday jaunt for a nice lunch. 

I think I saw a receipt that said the cap came from MEV Spares. 

Know what you mean. Just carry plenty of tools and spares and don’t venture too far from home until you’ve built up some confidence in it. You’ll be fine!

Mev spares eh, nice one. I’ve bought plenty of stuff from him in the past, good bloke to deal with.

[BeEP]

The fuel is coming from the bottom of the float chamber, where the pipe to the jet exits, not from the top as would be the case if the float needle was stuck.  There is a little olive and rubber o-ring (I think) underneath the nut where the pipe goes into the chamber.  The olive has a habit of snapping off taking the bit of pipe inside it with it.  Although as it's all been apart it probably just needs a re-assembly tweak as SiC says,  I managed to break one when playing with the carb on one of my Allegros last week.

[SiC]

The jet just pulled out without too much force.


I cut down some of the plastic pipe and put the ferrel back in. With a new washer it appeared to be water tight


Put it all back on the car and turned the ignition back on. Thankfully it's stopped leaking now and holds pressure.

This is where having Moss is really useful. Without them locally I'd had to spend a couple of quid postage for a 50 pence rubber washer. Or bodged my own up.

Next up was replacing the thermostat. But didn't because this is an A-Series.



Completely welded onto the studs again. Any suggestions on how best to get this off?

Last one I resorted to violence and smashed the housing into pieces before it came off. I'd like to avoid that this time if I can.

Then started on the heater valve by removing and cleaning off the gasket. This old one leaks out the end. I believe TADIS and the crap design is followed through onto modern ones and they leak in time too. Also looks a really shonky design. Not sure if this one has been repaired in the past with bits of old Mechano.

[plasticvandan]

Heat and plus gas.

[Asimo]

I would try and remove the studs. Two nuts, back to back tightened to grip the stud, heat and then try to wind out the stud. And as said, plus gas. Always PlusGas first.