project Early Mondeo Saloon Saved From The Scrapman.

[egg]

36 minutes ago, Slowsilver said:

F4RF2C219-AK.

A USA Ford part code format, interestingly*. World car and all that. ABS system by Bendix, I believe.

Well done.

[sutty2006]

Good luck in your quest to fix the abs pump ?

[Isaac Hunt]

4 hours ago, Slowsilver said:

I put the first number into Ebay and it returned several results, most of which also mentioned the second number. Unfortunately there do not appear to be any in the UK. They are either from Latvia for about £30 including postage or from Spain for about £100 including postage.
 

£30 'on a punt' from Latvia might be worth a try  if your fix doesn't work 

[Steve79]

Bloke in Chippenham breaking a 1995 24v mondeo Ghia. Might be worth a look

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/544810419761452/

Or alternatively with a 3mth warranty

https://www.b-parts.com/en/store/products/5512351/abs-pump-ford-mondeo-i-turnier-bnp-18-i-16v-ford-f4rf-2c219-ar-1993-1994-1995-1996/

[Slowsilver]

13 hours ago, Isaac Hunt said:

£30 'on a punt' from Latvia might be worth a try  if your fix doesn't work 

Quite so. In fact I have ordered one today. Even if it doesn't cure my problem I can see how it is piped and fits on the car and it will be interesting to dismantle it and see what is actually possible by way of repair. As you say, for £30 it is worth a punt and not too much to lose if it all goes wrong. The seller seems to be some sort of parts supplier who has nearly 3,000 feedback which is 97.9% positive, so fingers crossed.
 

[egg]

A bloke on Facebook, has posted up a few little trim piece parts that were only on early cars:

Quote

- Clear speedo needle
- Caps on door panel edge screws
- Cover on boot release handle
- caps on dash panel screws above speedo

Facts too boring for Richard Porter's book, but these items were later deleted by Ford to save a few pennies on each car, Rover style, to get back some of the massive investment on CDW27. 

All hail the K-reg, lol.

[Slowsilver]

While I am waiting for the new used ABS unit to arrive from Latvia (due tomorrow so only a seven day turnaround if it comes then. Pretty good all the way from foreign parts) I decided to tinker with some nasty bits of bodywork. The offside rear corner between the rear light and the fuel filler cap had been given a very poor point and squirt with an aerosol, resulting in a nice* matt finish and several large runs. Attempting to polish it out simply highlighted it in white, making it look much worse.

Attacked it with some 400 grit wet and dry, used wet. This revealed two small patches where the paint had chipped off down to the primer and a very shallow crease.

Quick masking up job and a blast from an aerosol of Cayman Blue.

Still needs a bit of a polish and some lacquer but will do for now. At least I can no longer see the marks from the lounge window.
The crease was so shallow that I thought it wasn't worth filling it but I did slip up with the two chips. I feathered the edges back until smooth before painting but now if you look obliquely along the panel you can clearly see two dimples in the panel where these were. I should have filled them with some cellulose putty and flatted them back level with the surrounding paintwork. Maybe I will have another go if it is back on the road in my ownership.

[bunglebus]

Looks loads better, I wouldn't try filling anything personally 

[Isaac Hunt]

Has the faulty ABS module put the brakes on this

[beko1987]

47 minutes ago, Isaac Hunt said:

Has the faulty ABS module put the brakes on this

Only until tomorrow, it'll be fixed by lunchtime! 

[Slowsilver]

Long overdue update. New* ABS unit arrived from Latvia within a week and appeared to be the correct thing, so quite impressed with that for a very reasonable £30 all in. Removed the existing ABS unit and got them both side by side on the bench. Thought I could maybe do some preliminary testing on the bench so tried blowing through each of the ports on both of the units with my tyre inflator to see if any air came out the other end. All four ports on the new* unit were clear but on the old unit one was blocked and, surprise, surprise, it was the one to the nearside rear wheel. So maybe we have found the problem. Fitted the replacement unit, bled the system and, hey presto, we now have brakes on all four wheels. Hurrah! Unfortunately the ABS warning light now flashes three times then stays on when the ignition is turned on, and the airbag light also stays on. I read somewhere that the ABS and airbag systems are linked by some common components and a fault in one can cause both lights to come on, but I can't find any evidence of this on the wiring diagrams in the HBOL. Unfortunately this car is apparently too old to have even OBD1 diagnostics. There is a two-pin connector on the engine bulkhead which is labelled "FPS2000 Diagnostics" on the wiring diagram and a three-pin connector labelled "Star Diagnostics", which appears to now be a Mercedes thing. I also read that since the ABS is a separate system it does not use these. In fact the ABS wiring diagram shows another two-pin and three-pin connector in the ABS loom, but I have been unable to locate these so far. So I can find no way to diagnose the problem and get the light to extinguish. I did wonder if the three flashes are some kind of fault code. Apparently it can be difficult to bleed the ABS unit successfully using normal methods and there appears to be two solutions to this. One is to run a special diagnostic test on the ABS unit which exercises all the valves in the correct sequence, which I don't have the equipment or the knowledge to do. The second is to simply use the car and the problem may fix itself, but this is not a realistic option because I can't drive it any distance without an MoT and it won't pass one with the ABS light on. Catch 22! Does anyone have any suggestions on how to proceed further with this? Over to you, Mondeo gurus.
 

[MJK 24]

No advice, but impressed with the perseverance!  I hope you get this sorted.

[egg]

Now I have played around with an OBD1 Gunsons tester (see my thread about that) I believe the only tests you can do are engine ECU based as you suggest without more expensive equipment.

Have you seen this page?

https://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php/Handbrake_And_ABS_Warning_Light_Troubleshooting

Edit, I've asked anonymously for any thoughts on this issue on one of the Mondy Facebook groups.

[Shoysty]

Assuming the lights behaved before  , can you use the electric part of the old unit with the hydraulic part of the replacement ?

[sierraman]

Should be no issue whatsoever in bleeding the ABS module, I’m assuming you’ve vacuum bleed the whole system? 

At risk of repeating myself I’d just whip the bulb out. 

[Isaac Hunt]

 

5 hours ago, Shoysty said:

Assuming the lights behaved before  , can you use the electric part of the old unit with the hydraulic part of the replacement ?

I had the same thought.  Or, now you have the old unit on the bench, can the hydraulic side be dismantled to identify and remove the blockage ? 

An alternative way to bleed the system is to use a large syringe to suck fluid from each caliper bleed nipple.  Reservoir needs to be kept topped up.  

[Slowsilver]

7 hours ago, egg said:

Now I have played around with an OBD1 Gunsons tester (see my thread about that) I believe the only tests you can do are engine ECU based as you suggest without more expensive equipment.

I did buy a Gunson's three-pin Ford diagnostic tester for a tenner off ebay but, as you say, these only do engine ECU stuff and it showed a 'no faults' code.
 

[Slowsilver]

6 hours ago, Shoysty said:

Assuming the lights behaved before  , can you use the electric part of the old unit with the hydraulic part of the replacement ?

The ABS light being on was not mentioned on the last Mot failure sheet back in 2013 so presumably was OK then but when we got it started again recently the light stayed on so there must now be a problem due to it standing idle for seven years. Swapping just the hydraulic bit was suggested previously on this thread but since it has now shown the light on both the electronic modules I don't think this will fix it. I think the next thing to try is to disconnect the two wiring harnesses from the unit and try to check each connection with a meter. There are several earth connections, several permanently live connections and several ignition switched live connections on the power connector, plus eight connections for the four wheel sensors, a coneection to the brake light switch and an output for the warning light on the other connector. I have already checked the two rear wheel sensors at their connectors under the back seat and they work OK but maybe I can check all four directly at the plug which goes to the unit.
 

[Slowsilver]

6 hours ago, sierraman said:

At risk of repeating myself I’d just whip the bulb out. 

Computerised MoT testing will show that this car is fitted with ABS, hence tester will know that the light should come on with the ignition then go out about three seconds after starting the engine. If it doesn't then computer says no.
 

[sierraman]

8 hours ago, Slowsilver said:

Computerised MoT testing will show that this car is fitted with ABS, hence tester will know that the light should come on with the ignition then go out about three seconds after starting the engine. If it doesn't then computer says no.
 

It will only show that its fitted with ABS if it’s standard for that car, if it’s not and it’s an option you can jettison it and remove and bypass the pump. 

[BorniteIdentity]

Amazing perseverance with this; genuinely heartwarming stuff. 

Not being a belt and braces man, I’d probably be looking for a sympathetic tester for this challenge. But not everyone is me (Thank GOD!)

I will rack my brains for a day or so, as it sounds like a proper Ford specialist (former technician) sort is what you need once all other avenues have been exhausted. 

[sierraman]

1 minute ago, BorniteIdentity said:

Amazing perseverance with this; genuinely heartwarming stuff. 

Not being a belt and braces man, I’d probably be looking for a sympathetic tester for this challenge. But not everyone is me (Thank GOD!)

I will rack my brains for a day or so, as it sounds like a proper Ford specialist (former technician) sort is what you need once all other avenues have been exhausted. 

One with the FDS2000 you’d need to diagnose this ??

[lanciamatt]

15 hours ago, Shoysty said:

Assuming the lights behaved before  , can you use the electric part of the old unit with the hydraulic part of the replacement ?

This is exactly what we do with abs units on corsa D models as they suffer badly from this same issue. Swap existing control part over to new abs block. 

[phil_lihp]

Good to hear the new module fixed the brake fault if not the warning light.  As for driving it, put it up on axle stands and "drive" it as far as you like!  No idea if the rear wheels being stationary would confuse it at all though.  I know when I fixed the ABS light on my old Octavia - in that instance, a corroded fuse - the ABS light didn't go out until it went past 20mph.

[Slowsilver]

4 hours ago, sierraman said:

It will only show that its fitted with ABS if it’s standard for that car, if it’s not and it’s an option you can jettison it and remove and bypass the pump. 

I did read this somewhere, and elsewhere someone quoted a regulation that the ABS could not be removed on any car registered after 2010, implying that it could on this one. I understand that ABS was optional on other Mondeo models but factory-fit as standard on all Ghias. I think I need to have a word with my tame MoT tester to clarify the position.
 

[Slowsilver]

4 hours ago, phil_lihp said:

Good to hear the new module fixed the brake fault if not the warning light.  As for driving it, put it up on axle stands and "drive" it as far as you like!  No idea if the rear wheels being stationary would confuse it at all though.  I know when I fixed the ABS light on my old Octavia - in that instance, a corroded fuse - the ABS light didn't go out until it went past 20mph.

I am pretty sure that the electronics would be expecting an input from all four wheel sensors and would assume that the back two were faulty and throw an error.
 

[egg]

9 minutes ago, Slowsilver said:

I think I need to have a word with my tame MoT tester to clarify the position.

It's one of those tricky things. My airbag is faulty and disconnected, and I should get an advisory for that. But I never have. It might be similar with the right tester!

[bunglebus]

8 hours ago, phil_lihp said:

Good to hear the new module fixed the brake fault if not the warning light.  As for driving it, put it up on axle stands and "drive" it as far as you like!  No idea if the rear wheels being stationary would confuse it at all though. 

[Slowsilver]

On 8/9/2020 at 9:11 AM, lanciamatt said:

This is exactly what we do with abs units on corsa D models as they suffer badly from this same issue. Swap existing control part over to new abs block. 

Were these Delphi units like this one? I have dismantled the old ABS unit and removed the control electronics and the pump motor but the four solenoid valves appear to be hard-wired into the loom and fixed into the block with roll pins driven into blind holes, so I cannot see any way of separating the electronic part from the mechanical part to swap them over. See photos below:

[lanciamatt]

Can you not cut the wires and join them