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Early Mondeo Saloon Saved From The Scrapman.


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First off, you have timed it up correctly? Made sure the crank web is hard against the pin and the plate set against the camshafts correctly? 

The idle issue is very likely to be the vacuum hoses that sit inside the inlet manifold. Pull the plenum off and the throttle body, take the big screws out, then the captive screws holding the inlet manifold out then you should be able to see the breather hoses, either swap the ISCV out or check the rubber T piece that’s prone to splitting. 

The pump probably wanted a bead of RTV or some blue Hylomar running round it but if it’s not leaking leave it alone.

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18 hours ago, sierraman said:

First off, you have timed it up correctly? Made sure the crank web is hard against the pin and the plate set against the camshafts correctly? 

The idle issue is very likely to be the vacuum hoses that sit inside the inlet manifold. Pull the plenum off and the throttle body, take the big screws out, then the captive screws holding the inlet manifold out then you should be able to see the breather hoses, either swap the ISCV out or check the rubber T piece that’s prone to splitting. 

The pump probably wanted a bead of RTV or some blue Hylomar running round it but if it’s not leaking leave it alone.

I am pretty certain that the timing is correct. I checked it multiple times before attempting to start it and it runs perfectly at higher revs, it just won't tick over slowly. I did think about using some sealant on the gasket but don't like to use the stuff if I can avoid it and it doesn't appear to be leaking (so far). The throttle body and breather hoses are next for inspection, although nothing in this area has been disturbed since it was running OK before. Maybe standing outside for a year hasn't helped.
 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/2/2021 at 4:57 PM, egg said:

Problem solved thanks to egg's link above. From this link:

Quote

 

Been out in the garage tinkering with it. Stripped off the Plenum pipe (large diameter hose from air box to throttle body), and inspected the butterfly valve again. Seemed to be fully closed.

Played around with the throttle cable linkage at the throttle body end and found it was leaving the butterfly valve open by around 1mm to 2mm max. Negligible to the eye. Sprayed with spring/linkage with penetrating fluid, gave the linkage a good work in and out, started the car and back to normal! - Idling at 750-800 as it should, revs fine up and down.

 

Checked the butterfly flap and, as above, it looked fully closed, but when I pushed it against the tension of the cable I could see it move slightly. Released the cable and now I could actually feel and hear it hitting the throttle body when released. So I set out to adjust the cable. I followed the route of the cable towards the bulkhead and realised that it was jammed down the back of the engine. Pulled it out and I could see that it should come straight out of the bulkhead, right over the cam cover to the front of the engine, then straight back into the throttle body. Rerouted it and, hey presto, problem solved. It now ticks over beautifully at about 900rpm. Routed this way it hinders access to the engine mounting and the cambelt covers, so I had shoved it out of the way to get to these and forgotten about it. So the problem was ME (again!). I can't believe that a tiny opening of the butterfly, barely visible to the naked eye, would hold the revs as high as about 4,500rpm, but it did. I don't know why I still attempt these jobs as I am obviously a forgetful idiot. If it had been anything more difficult to diagnose or cure I was ready to sack it off, but this has now given me the incentive to persevere (for the time being at least).
 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 5/4/2021 at 12:11 PM, adw1977 said:

Apologies if this is the wrong place to post this, but I can't find the list of K reg survivors and I saw this one today.

IMG_0056.thumb.JPG.63127e300d62f47d2d51ba711461280f.JPG

K28UBJ - 1.8 LX - 125,978 miles at last MOT, currently taxed, last keeper change May 2015.

Phoooar

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