Tadhg Tiogar Posted August 29, 2019 Posted August 29, 2019 1 hour ago, Fumbler said: Putting it into reverse would also prove that, however I don't know if that method applies to all autoboxes. This is also what I was trying to cover. The 3HP22 in the CX does this sometimes when the fluid is warmed up and going from Neutral to Reverse, but not all the time, and almost never when the fluid is cold; it's quite a random type of thing even though the fluid levels are currently within limits.
lesapandre Posted August 29, 2019 Posted August 29, 2019 On 8/28/2019 at 9:31 AM, barrett said: The gearbox fault on ours turned out to be an ECU problem, and a replacement ECU solved it, but then it turned out the car was dangerously slow and totally joyless to drive even with all three gears. Then something exploded in the fuel/oil/gearbox oil system and I never even opened the bonnet to check what it was, just called the scrap man. Hateful little cars. A shame, because they're pretty, comfortable and seem to be quite good quality. No rust whatsoever on ours, either. I bet a manual version is a very satisfying way of travelling. On my recent trip in northern France these were the most numerous of 80's/90's cars I saw. People seem willing to keep these running when a lot of other Renaults with higher numbers have all but disappeared.
bramz7 Posted August 29, 2019 Posted August 29, 2019 Saw loads of proper old MK1 Clios in Lille, Rome, Madrid...essentially all of Europe really. Early seats and engine size badges side by side with the side repeaters are those little details I love on these. I do miss the RT I had, but it was the insanely gruff diesel with no PAS. Loved that thing. Not great on motorways but could be chucked around like nobodies business everywhere else. Broadsword, michael t, lesapandre and 1 other 4
Kiltox Posted August 30, 2019 Author Posted August 30, 2019 Sidelight are fixed. I discovered the indicator bulb holder was trashed too, though, so new one on order Service parts arrived today, air filter was £1 and said to be “OE quality” - it’s actually OE old stock and looks like it’s been kicking around a stock room for a while! jumpingjehovahs, egg, theshadow and 8 others 11
Kiltox Posted September 6, 2019 Author Posted September 6, 2019 New plugs and air filter makes it run a bit better but the idle is still horribly shaky (I was just trying to avoid taking the inlet manifold off ) 6AEFB9E6-2CD6-477C-9C1C-FAF57F14DC72.MP4 egg 1
Kiltox Posted September 6, 2019 Author Posted September 6, 2019 Well, it was a prick to get to and I made a slight error of judgement when placing a tray to catch escaping coolant but I definitely think that old gasket has seen better days! The Moog, Tickman, RobT and 3 others 6
Sausage5000 Posted September 6, 2019 Posted September 6, 2019 Clios seemed to get more bloated and hideous for every facelift they got. The 5, Clio mk1 and Clio mk2 pre-facelift are nice lookers. Cavcraft 1
Kiltox Posted September 6, 2019 Author Posted September 6, 2019 34 minutes ago, Sausage5000 said: Clios seemed to get more bloated and hideous for every facelift they got. The 5, Clio mk1 and Clio mk2 pre-facelift are nice lookers. Like a Polo is now the size of a Golf, it’s how it is. I guess the Twingo is the car for someone that wants something like an old Clio. The mk4 Clio is actually quite an impressive package as far as moderns go, I have one for sale at the moment (see the modern section) and was very impressed with how it drove on the 350 mile collection journey. It is huge though, the size of a Megane II.
Kiltox Posted September 7, 2019 Author Posted September 7, 2019 Got it all back together and it still has a rough shaky idle
Parky Posted September 7, 2019 Posted September 7, 2019 You mentioned changing the plugs - are the leads ok? It might be one is breaking down somewhere. I can’t remember if the “energy” engine in these has a distributor cap/rotor arm arrangement so perhaps something minor is past its best. I think it’s too old for things like Throttle bodies and lambda sensors but could be wrong!
Kiltox Posted September 7, 2019 Author Posted September 7, 2019 It does have a cap/rotor. The leads look in good condition but the cap and rotor are definitely well used. I’ve ordered replacements.
Kiltox Posted September 10, 2019 Author Posted September 10, 2019 Changed the cap and rotor tonight and it still shakes itself to bits at idle / feels like it wants to stall. It has definitely improved the running though, the engine seems to respond better to throttle / start faster etc. Running out of ideas now though. Theres a rubber seal between the throttle / single point injector unit and the air box that doesn’t look in great health but I can’t find one anywhere
Kiltox Posted September 10, 2019 Author Posted September 10, 2019 Idle control valve might also be fucked - is it possible to test it before I play any more parts darts? Cavcraft 1
Kiltox Posted September 13, 2019 Author Posted September 13, 2019 The Parts Darts World Championship continues - new ICV arrived today ? The Moog, egg and Skizzer 3
Skizzer Posted September 14, 2019 Posted September 14, 2019 Let’s hope you win Bully’s Special Prize this time. Eyersey1234, Cavcraft, Shep Shepherd and 1 other 1 3
Noel Tidybeard Posted September 14, 2019 Posted September 14, 2019 does it cold start ok? there are 2 temp sensors 1 for gauge & 1 for "choke"- reg the 19 wasnt happy with fcuked sensor
Kiltox Posted September 14, 2019 Author Posted September 14, 2019 It starts fine cold or warm but it shakes itself to death on idle regardless. Pulls strongly if you keep the revs up but struggles at idle, stalls if you switch to reverse from drive without keeping the throttle on
Zelandeth Posted September 14, 2019 Posted September 14, 2019 No idle speed adjustment is there? Just because she has injection doesn't necessarily mean there's not a screw to set the air bleed past the throttle at idle. Worth making sure the throttle body is spotlessly clean too. One thing I have found over the years with a few monopoint cars though is that the earlier systems tended to be *really* sensitive to vacuum leaks. A microscopically small split in the brake servo line made the Lada idle absolutely awfully. Never found the leak...but changing the hose resolved it! Worth going over the engine bay with a microscope to make sure you've not got a leak somewhere. I'd start from the connection to the MAP sensor and work from there. MAP issues would also cause issues on light throttle...so worth investigating.
Kiltox Posted October 26, 2019 Author Posted October 26, 2019 Parts darts is over - ICV made very little difference. Anyone want a go before the bridge beckons? Wouldnt surprise me if there was a tiny hole in a vacuum hose or something as suggested above.
Andyrew Posted October 26, 2019 Posted October 26, 2019 Are these a belt or chain? Has the timing been checked? This Sounds awfully similar to the red Mazda saga.
BeEP Posted October 26, 2019 Posted October 26, 2019 Is this new enough to have an evap (purge) valve? Disconnecting one (pulling the pipe off and plugging, not just taking the electrical connector off) has just cured similar symptons on another of your favourite cars (yes, a Panda).
Kiltox Posted October 26, 2019 Author Posted October 26, 2019 1 hour ago, Andyrew said: Are these a belt or chain? Has the timing been checked? This Sounds awfully similar to the red Mazda saga. Belt. Haven’t checked the timing and it is next on my list if I can be arsed (I can’t really)
Kiltox Posted November 9, 2019 Author Posted November 9, 2019 Pretty damn confused by this POS now. Suspected the MAP sensor so disconnected it and it wouldn’t run. Disconnected it’s vacuum line but left the electrical connector and it started and ran so much better than usual. Fitted a new sensor and now it won’t fucking start!
Angrydicky Posted November 10, 2019 Posted November 10, 2019 Mine won’t start either now. It’s currently in my local garage who towed it in and have diagnosed a faulty crank sensor. We’ll see if that cures it on Monday. All French cars, etc
Wingz123 Posted November 10, 2019 Posted November 10, 2019 Could it be a duff injector? I had a 206cc 2.0 before that had a dogged injector. Changed out in a matter of minutes started up and youd never have know....just throwing it out there as a possibility....??
Kiltox Posted November 10, 2019 Author Posted November 10, 2019 33 minutes ago, Wingz123 said: Could it be a duff injector? I had a 206cc 2.0 before that had a dogged injector. Changed out in a matter of minutes started up and youd never have know....just throwing it out there as a possibility....?? It ran albeit badly before changing the MAP sensor. Anything’s a possibility mind. 16 minutes ago, Split_Pin said: Cranking and not firing? Yep.
Split_Pin Posted November 10, 2019 Posted November 10, 2019 Have you checked the crank sensor? This happened on my old Megane when I first bought it. It's bolted to the top of the gearbox right in at the engine block above the flywheel, not sure where it takes its signal from in an auto mind. It has a small flat-topped metal pin that takes the signal and can become dirty. 2 minutes with a jewellers file to clean it up and my Megane started perfectly ever since. Worth a shot for no cost? lesapandre 1
Kiltox Posted November 10, 2019 Author Posted November 10, 2019 Worth a go - I’ll hunt it out and see what kind of condition it’s in. 320touring and lesapandre 2
lesapandre Posted November 10, 2019 Posted November 10, 2019 Looking on the francophone websites for this symptom - while I sip my tea - something I see is called a 'flywheel sensor' has been identified for this era of Clio rough running at low revs. Not sure if that is relevant. ?(just seen the above post it must be the crank sensor as describled). It was identified as a problem by French owners. Kiltox 1
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