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Kiltox

Kiltox’s eternally fucked 1992 Renault Clio 1.4 RT auto

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1 hour ago, Fumbler said:

Putting it into reverse would also prove that, however I don't know if that method applies to all autoboxes.

This is also what I was trying to cover. The 3HP22 in the CX does this sometimes when the fluid is warmed up and going from Neutral to Reverse, but not all the time, and almost never when the fluid is cold; it's quite a random type of thing even though the fluid levels are currently within limits.

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On 8/28/2019 at 9:31 AM, barrett said:

The gearbox fault on ours turned out to be an ECU problem, and a replacement ECU solved it, but then it turned out the car was dangerously slow and totally joyless to drive even with all three gears. Then something exploded in the fuel/oil/gearbox oil system and I never even opened the bonnet to check what it was, just called the scrap man. Hateful little cars. A shame, because they're pretty, comfortable and seem to be quite good quality. No rust whatsoever on ours, either. I bet a manual version is a very satisfying way of travelling.

On my recent trip in northern France these were the most numerous of 80's/90's cars I saw. People seem willing to keep these running when a lot of other Renaults with higher numbers have all but disappeared.

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Saw loads of proper old MK1 Clios in Lille, Rome, Madrid...essentially all of Europe really. 

Early seats and engine size badges side by side with the side repeaters are those little details I love on these. 

 

I do miss the RT I had, but it was the insanely gruff diesel with no PAS. Loved that thing. Not great on motorways but could be chucked around like nobodies business everywhere else. 

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Sidelight are fixed. I discovered the indicator bulb holder was trashed too, though, so new one on order  

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Service parts arrived today, air filter was £1 and said to be “OE quality” - it’s actually OE old stock and looks like it’s been kicking around a stock room for a while!

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34 minutes ago, Sausage5000 said:

Clios seemed to get more bloated and hideous for every facelift they got. The 5, Clio mk1 and Clio mk2 pre-facelift are nice lookers.

Like a Polo is now the size of a Golf, it’s how it is. I guess the Twingo is the car for someone that wants something like an old Clio. 

The mk4 Clio is actually quite an impressive package as far as moderns go, I have one for sale at the moment (see the modern section) and was very impressed with how it drove on the 350 mile collection journey. It is huge though, the size of a Megane II. 

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You mentioned changing the plugs - are the leads ok?  It might be one is breaking down somewhere.  I can’t remember if the “energy” engine in these has a distributor cap/rotor arm arrangement so perhaps something minor is past its best.  

I think it’s too old for things like Throttle bodies and lambda sensors but could be wrong!

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Changed the cap and rotor tonight and it still shakes itself to bits at idle / feels like it wants to stall. It has definitely improved the running though, the engine seems to respond better to throttle / start faster etc. 

Running out of ideas now though. 

Theres a rubber seal between the throttle / single point injector unit and the air box that doesn’t look in great health but I can’t find one anywhere

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No idle speed adjustment is there?  Just because she has injection doesn't necessarily mean there's not a screw to set the air bleed past the throttle at idle.
 

Worth making sure the throttle body is spotlessly clean too.

One thing I have found over the years with a few monopoint cars though is that the earlier systems tended to be *really* sensitive to vacuum leaks.  A microscopically small split in the brake servo line made the Lada idle absolutely awfully.  Never found the leak...but changing the hose resolved it!

Worth going over the engine bay with a microscope to make sure you've not got a leak somewhere.  I'd start from the connection to the MAP sensor and work from there.

MAP issues would also cause issues on light throttle...so worth investigating.

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Is this new enough to have an evap (purge) valve? Disconnecting one (pulling the pipe off and plugging, not just taking the electrical connector off) has just cured similar symptons on another of your favourite cars (yes, a Panda).

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1 hour ago, Andyrew said:

Are these a belt or chain? Has the timing been checked? This Sounds awfully similar to the red Mazda saga. 

Belt. Haven’t checked the timing and it is next on my list if I can be arsed (I can’t really)

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Pretty damn confused by this POS now. 

Suspected the MAP sensor so disconnected it and it wouldn’t run. Disconnected it’s vacuum line but left the electrical connector and it started and ran so much better than usual. 

Fitted a new sensor and now it won’t fucking start!

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33 minutes ago, Wingz123 said:

Could it be a duff injector?

I had a 206cc 2.0 before that had a dogged injector. Changed out in a matter of minutes  started up and youd never have know....just throwing it out there as a possibility....??

It ran albeit badly before changing the MAP sensor.  Anything’s a possibility mind. 

16 minutes ago, Split_Pin said:

Cranking and not firing?

Yep. 

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Have you checked the crank sensor? This happened on my old Megane when I first bought it. 

It's bolted to the top of the gearbox right in at the engine block above the flywheel, not sure where it takes its signal from in an auto mind. It has a small flat-topped metal pin that takes the signal and can become dirty. 2 minutes with a jewellers file to clean it up and my Megane started perfectly ever since. Worth a shot for no cost?

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Looking on the francophone websites for this symptom - while I sip my tea - something I see is called a 'flywheel sensor' has been identified for this era of Clio rough running at low revs. Not sure if that is relevant. 👍(just seen the above post it must be the crank sensor as describled). It was identified as a problem by French owners.

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