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Posted

Are you pushing them in at the same time?

 

Every calliper I've done like that needs a damn good shove as you screw them inwards. I don't think it's a thread as such, just turning them releases the ratchet where the handbrake mech moves out with pad wear.

Typical Haynes misinformation, it didn't mention pushing at the same time so I presumed it was something typically Citroen. I was also confused by the need to turn it clockwise, it would have been much easier to twist back and forth or just heave ho with a big flat bar like normal.

Posted

Typical Haynes misinformation, it didn't mention pushing at the same time so I presumed it was something typically Citroen. I was also confused by the need to turn it clockwise, it would have been much easier to twist back and forth or just heave ho with a big flat bar like normal.

I don't know about XM calipers in particular, but various other PSA calipers you do need to wind clockwise to get them to retract as there is a thread internally - anti-clockwise winds them outwards!

Posted

Range Rover 2015 will the pads be simple or are they are on a electronic calliper affair.

 

Done our discovery 4 and rr sport pads and they was conventional as the electronic parking brake is a drum inside the disc. But I know they went to a electronic parking brake in the calliper? Any clues peeps?

 

 

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Posted

Just to add to my previous post... I booked my car in at my local garage. Did think about buying the exhaust myself but they advised that a cheap exhaust can take longer to fit so may result in increased labour costs. I trust them so thought I'd leave it to them. However, I've been thinking that the amount of fumes in the car may be due to something else. After a bit of googling I found out that the injector seals can leak. Sure enough I found the two left side injectors are doing this as there's a tell tale build up of gunk and I can actually hear and smell the fumes. I've just ordered a set of washers,and will attempt to change them at the weekend, but I've also heard mention of fire seals. Are they the same thing or something different? Can anyone give me any advice?

Posted

Possibly, but the scrap man cometh this week some time and I don't want to make a mess before he does. I wonder if I can shift the centre or rear seat, pull up the carpet and make a hole in the top?

Did this a week ago. If the hole isn't big enough get some aviation snips and cut in a spiders web pattern outwards. Twat the metal back then open the pump from the top. Don't go in for shit like making holes in the tank underneath unless you like fuel everywhere or start trying to syphon it through the filler neck into the tank, you'll get shit in the fuel or fuel all over the place. Secondly I wouldn't waste money on one of those 'jiggle hoses' just a length of clear hose does it nicely.

Posted

Where can I buy proper old fashioned Red Lead primer? (or a genuinely good brushable alternative)

 

 

The bits painted in it seem to have lasted on my Rover.

 

 

DSC_0656_zpsw0lrksar.jpg

Wilkos sell it. Needs a good stir though.

Posted

I don't know about XM calipers in particular, but various other PSA calipers you do need to wind clockwise to get them to retract as there is a thread internally - anti-clockwise winds them outwards!

This would seem possible except there is a lump on the back face of the pad that, on inspection of the old pads, is positioned in a recess in the piston to stop if from turning. Now, only two of the four pads have the lump which made me wonder how many get put in the wrong way around by doombrains in quickfuck places because it makes the job of replacing the pads quite fiddly as you have to turn the piston until it is exactly the right place so you can fit it over the pads.

Posted

Just to add to my previous post... I booked my car in at my local garage. Did think about buying the exhaust myself but they advised that a cheap exhaust can take longer to fit so may result in increased labour costs. I trust them so thought I'd leave it to them. However, I've been thinking that the amount of fumes in the car may be due to something else. After a bit of googling I found out that the injector seals can leak. Sure enough I found the two left side injectors are doing this as there's a tell tale build up of gunk and I can actually hear and smell the fumes. I've just ordered a set of washers,and will attempt to change them at the weekend, but I've also heard mention of fire seals. Are they the same thing or something different? Can anyone give me any advice?

Unless you have a two post ramp or a pit in your garage always take your car in to get the exhaust done. Unless you like lying on your back getting showers of rust all over you. And just doing the bit that is blowing is a false economy as the rest will fall apart as soon as you drive away because they twat the hell out of them to get them apart.

Sorry, don't know about injector seals apart from the fact that they amaze me that they can take the compression and heat from detonations in the piston.

Posted

White smoke as well? I hadn't thought about that, you can hear the fuel pump when you give it throttle sometimes, what I assumed was the fuel pump anyway. I will have to have a look.

Yes, clouds of white smoke. Which dissapeared when the bubbles in the fuel line stopped.

 

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Posted

How long does it take for a car to appear on the DVLA vehicle enquiry thing after being registered? Aparrently the date of registration of my Duster was yesterday but there's no sign

Posted

Is it RONG to be a bloke and use bubble bath?

 

Used some this evening for the first time since being 3 years old and it seemed a weird thing to do

Posted

Can anyone advise me on how hard/easy it is to change the injector washers on my 406hdi? Do i need any special tools? Also, I've heard mention that I need to change the seals too but when I put 'injector seals' into eBay it just brings up the washers, which is confusing me.

Posted

Injector seals are the copper washers at the bottom of the injectors. Getting the injector out can be the hard bit. If your lucky they'll just pop out . If you're not it can be a war.

  • Like 1
Posted

Changing pads on front discs of XM: Haynes book of lies suggests screwing the piston clockwise to retract it into the caliper, is it on a thread? I've been screwing for about an hour!

You'll need to apply pressure whilst screwing, this is where the arbitrary wind-back tool comes in handy.

Posted

Bought a trailer, it's a Jobling built in 1989 I think. The wheels are 4x140 stud offset which I'm guessing would have been a van size of the day. Anyone know if it was a particular make that had these around this time as It might help when I'm trying to refurb the brakes if I can at least have a wild stab which manufacturers hubs were used.

Posted

Anybody know which direction a OHV Dolomite starter motor is supposed to spin? I have a sneaking suspicion my new one might be going backwards...

Posted

The opposite direction to the engine!

 

Ben

Unfortunately I don't know which way the crank goes either!

Posted

On that basis it looks like my starter is the right one then as it spins counter-clockwise.

 

New question, the engine turns over fine but as soon as she tries to fire the starter stops dead with a metallic crashing noise. The starter is brand new and sitting on the floor connected to a battery it seems to work fine, put it on the car and it'll spin the engine too, as soon as the engine even tries to turn itself, BANG. Instant stoppage.

 

There was also a slightly odd occurrence (or two) where the poor chap operating the throttle on the carb got an electric shock via the linkage at the same time the starter would stop. This didn't happen every time though.

 

I'm quite bamboozled at this stage, any ideas? 

Posted

Well, I was looking at it from the front of the engine, towards the flywheel...

Posted

Are you sure it's not wired up the wrong way around? It's a bit weird it spins the wrong direction as a fault.

Posted

Right, in the case my starter should be going the right way, and indeed it does when it's sat on the floor. I thought I may have somehow acquired a rare 1300fwd example by accident!

 

It should be wired up correctly according to the wiring diagram, the starter itself only takes a live as it's earthed through the body. The only potential issue is I remember having to change the wiring up slightly to get it running electronic ignition. Either way I don't think there is any way I could wire it up that would allow it to correctly engage backwards?!

 

I'm still bloody confused as to the problem!

Posted

Are Dolomites not positive earth as in the positive goes to the body and the negative goes to the systems ? could be wrong /irrelevant .

Posted

Nah, they're negative earth. Mine was a positive earth briefly when Dad wired in the battery backwards, he had to buy me a new alternator for that. ;)

 

In his defence he was used to working on the other Dolly which has it's battery on the opposite side facing the other way!

Posted

The direction an original Lucas type starter spins has nothing to do with +ve / -ve earth. It is a function of the way the field winding is wired relative to the brushes.

The Bendix / inertia-spiral widget has to be correct for the rotation direction too.

 

Modern starters with primary gear reduction and permanent magnet motor would motor backwards if on +ve earth.

 

Does the car bump start ok?

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