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Posted

To all the shiters that responded to my 'changing an exhaust' question.

 

You were right.

 

Absolute cunt of a job. I'm never doing it again. Angle grinders and lump hammers are a step too far for this knackered 50 year old bloke.

Posted

bosch spark plug codes..

 

my car needs wr6dc+

 

the box says +12 wr6dc+     whats the +12 mean? 

+12 + means it is a "super plus" spark, 12 is the "HKB" = Handelskurzbezeichnung, = retail short code. Effort to simplify the numbering system for sparks.

In other words, instead of making hundreds of different sparks (that fit the particular application), they now make only a few different ones that usually dont work well because only "almost" correct.

All Bosch sparks are shit etc...

Posted

Any North East shitter able to move my trailer from Sunderland to Chester le street?

 

Or any North East shitter have a car with a tow bar I could borrow for an hour.

 

I no longer have a tow bar on my car and the house it is stored at has sold.

 

looking to complete 13/7/18 so before this please.

Sorry, have everything except working towbar electrics. If I get keen I'll PM you.

Posted

How hard is it to change car tyres? Without a tyre machine?

'

It's breaking the bead that's the hard part. 

Drive over it, put a plank on and drive up the plank, hit it with a hammer and chisel, use a bead breaker of some description, there are many other tried and tested methods, most of which are strenuous and can be dangerous.

If you manage it, you still need a balance.

 Best to pay really.

I struggled for years then bought a machine. Do you live near me? :)

Posted

Bead breaking is easy. It can be an absolute arse to get some types of tyre off the rim unless you can fight a moving wheel.

 

Use the right tools or pay someone else.

Posted

Someone trying to part desperate fools from their money?

Posted

'

It's breaking the bead that's the hard part.

Drive over it, put a plank on and drive up the plank, hit it with a hammer and chisel, use a bead breaker of some description, there are many other tried and tested methods, most of which are strenuous and can be dangerous.

If you manage it, you still need a balance.

Best to pay really.

I struggled for years then bought a machine. Do you live near me? :)

Remember my dad telling me that when in the RAF and in the far east after the end of WWII him and some other mechanics were flown out on a Dacota with a spare tyre for a Wellington ( I think) from their base to another.

They got the tyre off by the above means but had no lubricant to get the new tyre on the hub. They all ended up having to pee on it before they could get it to seal.

Posted

I'm wanting to have dual line brakes on my series land rover project. Too old and scared for single line now.

So I bought a dual line master cylinder:

 

post-4472-0-67879700-1530128847_thumb.jpg

 

It has 2 ports as expected, 1 is 3/8" unf the other 7/16".

 

Bugger. As all the wheel cylinders are 3/8" thread I'm assuming the shuttle valve (that I don't have) has 1 7/16" input, 1 3/8" input and 3/8" outputs. As shuttle valves are a) expensive and b ) unreliable I was planning on just putting a T piece in for the front end lines.

 

Do I need something like this?

8-female-HU108-Brass-Inline-Connectors-1

 

https://www.automec.co.uk/products/2-x-brass-inline-connector-7-16-male-x-3-8-female-by-automec

 

Screw into the 7/16" master cylinder port to convert to 3/8", then just plumb everything to 3/8" ??

I'm also guessing it needs a copper washer or it will leak?

Also assuming the 7/16" port is for the front brakes?

Posted

Would that work? Wouldn't the m/c be expecting the flare of a brake pipe to seal against ?

Posted

Any North East shitter able to move my trailer from Sunderland to Chester le street?

 

Or any North East shitter have a car with a tow bar I could borrow for an hour.

 

I no longer have a tow bar on my car and the house it is stored at has sold.

 

looking to complete 13/7/18 so before this please.

Can't help with a towbar unfortunately but Im also based in Chester le street.

 

Tis a small world.

Posted

How bad (or good) an idea is a Honda Civic IMA 1.3 hybrid? They seem a little cheaper than a Prius (in the lower price range/oldest ones) but are they any good?

  • Like 1
Guest Hooli
Posted

I'm wanting to have dual line brakes on my series land rover project. Too old and scared for single line now.

So I bought a dual line master cylinder:

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20180627_203519.jpg

 

It has 2 ports as expected, 1 is 3/8" unf the other 7/16".

 

Bugger. As all the wheel cylinders are 3/8" thread I'm assuming the shuttle valve (that I don't have) has 1 7/16" input, 1 3/8" input and 3/8" outputs. As shuttle valves are a) expensive and b ) unreliable I was planning on just putting a T piece in for the front end lines.

 

Do I need something like this?

8-female-HU108-Brass-Inline-Connectors-1

 

https://www.automec.co.uk/products/2-x-brass-inline-connector-7-16-male-x-3-8-female-by-automec

 

Screw into the 7/16" master cylinder port to convert to 3/8", then just plumb everything to 3/8" ??

I'm also guessing it needs a copper washer or it will leak?

Also assuming the 7/16" port is for the front brakes?

 

I think that'd work but I'm no expert on it.

 

Like you I'd expect the larger output to be the front brakes, do they have twin wheel cylinders or anything to explain the need for more fluid movement?

Posted

How bad (or good) an idea is a Honda Civic IMA 1.3 hybrid? They seem a little cheaper than a Prius (in the lower price range/oldest ones) but are they any good?

 

I'm sure xtriple had one of those.

Posted

Does anyone have any experience of Hiace Powervan starter motors?  It's a 1999 2.4D non-turbo, and as various shiters present at the Field of Dreams a couple of weeks ago will be aware, the starter motor is knackered.  Ever since I've had it it tended to jam once or twice before starting on the odd occasion but stopped doing it for about a year.  Recently it's come back with a vengeance and is now becoming a proper nuisance.  Most times now when trying to start it, when the key's turned the solenoid clicks loudly but nothing happens, or it turns over but very slowly.  After a few attempts it'll suddenly turn over properly for a moment and always starts instantly.  A local auto electrician can rebuild it but I need to remove it to bring it to them.

 

I have been investigating how to get to it and from under the bonnet I can barely see it at all, which is odd given how accessible most of the engine bay is.  It appears to be buried underneath the injector pump (or that's what I think it is, anyway) and is almost invisible from above.  From underneath I can just about see part of it and get a hand on it but cannot work out how it's attached or where the wiring is located.  

 

There's no Haynes manual for the later Powervan, only the much cooler but completely unrelated 70s/80s Hiace/Hilux and Google is drawing a complete blank.

Posted

I think that'd work but I'm no expert on it.

 

Like you I'd expect the larger output to be the front brakes, do they have twin wheel cylinders or anything to explain the need for more fluid movement?

 

I've basically done what land rover did in the 80's, and put LWB twin front cylinder brakes on it.

 

I'm missing this valve:

599443.jpeg

 

Hard to tell from photo, but yellow input looks a bigger plug? I don't want to spend £200 buying one if there's a way round it.

Guest Hooli
Posted

I thought I recalled something about twin wheel cylinders, didn't have them on my S2 Lt/Wt but I had a feeling some LRs did.

Posted

I didn't have a Civic, I had an Insight which has the same engine and bits. I liked it lots! It fealt really tinny and light but never rattled or anything and went well. Remarkably great on fuel, especially for my use (limited) and I seem to recall only putting fuel in it about three times in the year and a bit I owned it!

 

CVT box is a pain on the motorway but you can use the paddles instead which makes it behave at hgher speeds, round town etc, just leave it alone and it's fine. If you use the 'econ' button it kills acceleration and it feels like the engine has shrunk about 400ccs but I never found it made that much difference in fuel consumption anyway so I left it off, has the advantage that they don't 'stop start' so often or easily (all sorts of criteria before they do!).

 

All in all, good cars, I'd have one/another like a shot if only I wasn't so stupid!

Posted

Can't help with a towbar unfortunately but Im also based in Chester let street.

 

Tis a small world.

Where about in chester?

  • Like 1
Posted

Okay, it's definitely ask a shiter time. Any Xantia experts around?  My brakes are defo worrying me now - the abs has been intermittent to say the least, and now (well, when I picked it up earlier after a week away), when I press the brake, NOTHING happens for a second or so and then the brakes come on.  No abs either of course.  There are no warning lights on the dash either.  I have many things needing to be done in a car tomorrow and Friday too.  Is there a pressure problem?  Anything I can do to remedy in the short term?  I'm guessing not, but thought it worth asking here first.  V worrying....

Cheers,

Chris

Posted

In fact if anything, for that second or so, the car seems to move forward quicker, if that makes any sense?

Posted

Where about in chester?

 

I think he means Chester le Street, as opposed to the actual Chester.

  • Like 2
Posted

What are these signs directing you to a "unit" all about ? Now I've noticed them, they seem to be everywhere

 

attachicon.gifIMG_5007.JPG

 

Bonus lol - the blonde turned round when she heard the kehsshht of my camera :)

 

That "Unit" sign will relate to the unit base for location shooting of a TV drama or a film - follow the signs until you've found a load of oldish lorries, hired vans, large American caravans and possibly an old double decker bus (used as a dining area for cast/crew) to make sure. Other signs may have the letters of the production or the production company involved, to be a bit more discreet. Leeds council outright forbids the signs being put up for instance but over in NZ, they're much more laid back; which is much better for me finding my way to work!

  • Like 2
Posted

very interesting, I shall follow the next ones I spot - cheers :)

Posted

Okay, it's definitely ask a shiter time. Any Xantia experts around?  My brakes are defo worrying me now - the abs has been intermittent to say the least, and now (well, when I picked it up earlier after a week away), when I press the brake, NOTHING happens for a second or so and then the brakes come on.  No abs either of course.  There are no warning lights on the dash either.  I have many things needing to be done in a car tomorrow and Friday too.  Is there a pressure problem?  Anything I can do to remedy in the short term?  I'm guessing not, but thought it worth asking here first.  V worrying....

Cheers,

Chris

 

Does the ABS light actually work? The ABS used to come and go on mine and it turned out to be a cracked reluctor ring, which eventually fell off altogether. It was always accompanied by the warning light though.

 

Delay in braking normally means you need to bleed the brakes. I've never done it myself but I think I've read that you can run a hose from the bleed nipple back to the tank, then hold the brake pedal down until the LHM in the tube stops having bubbles in it. That might sort the ABS out too.

  • Like 1
Posted

Where about in chester?

 

Bottom end near Aldi/M&S garage etc.

 

You've a good chance of spotting me pottering about in either a turquoise Volvo 940 or alternatively a collective of ropey VAG stuff :)

Posted

Does the ABS light actually work? The ABS used to come and go on mine and it turned out to be a cracked reluctor ring, which eventually fell off altogether. It was always accompanied by the warning light though.

 

Delay in braking normally means you need to bleed the brakes. I've never done it myself but I think I've read that you can run a hose from the bleed nipple back to the tank, then hold the brake pedal down until the LHM in the tube stops having bubbles in it. That might sort the ABS out too.

 

Good point on the ABS light - I had just assumed that the all-encompassing 'STOP' light would have come on on?  I know that it did have a new reluctor ring for the last MOT, and also I just had a new brake pipe put on after its green and puddly FTP the other month.  Gonna go out and do a fair bit of 'citrobics' this morning and lots of pedal pushing.  Then look into bleeding them I guess.  Something I havenae done before - also I have no Hbol yet (cannae seem to find one for a 2001) - so possibly a day of interesting discoveries.  Possibly not.  Cheers Richard. 

Posted

- Most obvious, I only have one key, the other has vanished into thin air. They'll obviously notice this. 

 

Found said key - tipped filing box of important shit upside down, literally, and the key was in amongst the ensuing detritus. 

 

We're expecting the hottest day since 1893 in Scotland today, probably not the best day to chop in a car with borked Air Conditioning.

Guest Hooli
Posted

 I had just assumed that the all-encompassing 'STOP' light would have come on on? 

 

French quality* the 'STOP' light doesn't come on as it knows you can't stop & doesn't want to worry you.

Posted

Bottom end near Aldi/M&S garage etc.

 

You've a good chance of spotting me pottering about in either a turquoise Volvo 940 or alternatively a collective of ropey VAG stuff :)

just round the corner from me mam and dad - I'll keep an eye out next time I'm home for a visit

  • Like 1

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