Jump to content

It is just so Super (Sentinel).

Recommended Posts

One of the things that made the decision to build another Super easy was that we had a boiler lying around. We designed and built the boiler for the first one, then built a new one for the S Type and then built another three of them. However, for reasons that don't need to be gone into we didn't sell the last one and kept it back. Here is the the last one we built sitting in a support frame. A pressure vessel designed, constructed and documented to the Pressure Equipment Directive. This is not your usual try to claim that it is a repair effort and the design dossier is what might be called extensive.


The grates are at the bottom and you drop coal down the top. It is a water tube design which is a copy of Sentinel's own design. It is what is referred to as a spiral pattern firebox. See below.




Here is a firebox that we made for the S Type prior to the tubes being welded into the firebox. The are sixty 1" OD tubes. This is double the number that Sentinel used. The problem of this design is that machining the tube holes is a little tricky because they pierce the firebox at a crazy angle.




The pattern the tubes make is rather hypnotic. The reason for this layout is that it gives a high heating area but it lets you have a hole in the middle. This is very important because that is what the coal falls through.





What we also had lying around was a new superheater which was meant to go with the boiler. The superheater sits inside the combustion space and heats the steam to above saturation temperature. Higher temperature = higher efficiency. Note 944 being ignored.




So that is what we started with. A new boiler and a new superheater that were lying round doing nothing.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Fab. Please keep it coming.


Do you do all machining yourself? There are some huge machines at the locomotive repairers. Just wondered - looks like you are very well equipped.

This is epic work, keep it coming please.



Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Depends if it was gubbed or not; if the bed was like a poughed field then not exactly crime of the century, regrinds aren't cheap.


Assembling a Sentinel from an incomplete 1:1 scale airfix kit is proper impressive.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

What a brilliant thread.


I think Sentinel Works is where Perkins (now Caterpillar) still are in Shrewsbury.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Never ceases to amaze me who is on AS. Excellent thread. I assume your old tractor is the one a gentleman collector in Essex now has.


We have engines too but much slower and noisier !

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

What a brilliant thread.


I think Sentinel Works is where Perkins (now Caterpillar) still are in Shrewsbury.

Sentinel were bought by RR(possibly also with the idea of entering the road transport market) and used to develop/build their high speed diesels. Presumably later flogged to Perkins.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Fantastic bit of kit, I could have used one of those steam lorries tonight; silly cow lives opposite keeps parking her car in my space, length of chain and a bit of torque would see to that.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

So where are we? By this point the list looked a bit like:




Chimney base


Most of the steering box

A steering wheel

Windscreen hinges

Ash pan

Tank filter boxes

Feed heater box and lid

A vague idea what we are up to


When we built the last one we started with an engine and then fretted about making axles and boilers and the rest of it. Now we were pretty happy that the rest of it could be built but the engine was going to be a problem. What Sentinel built was a fairly standard twin cylnder, double acting engine with poppet valves operated from camshafts (we'll come to them later). Where things got odd is that the Super has a twin chain drive. There is a sprocket on both ends of the crankshaft driving a chain to a sprocket on each rear wheel.


Errr, where are we going to put the differential?


After much head scratching they come up with one of the more mental ideas in vehicle design. We'll put it in the crankshaft. And in a stroke they made what would have been a difficult job of making an engine very much harder. So there was humming and hawing and then as is usually the case if you think about a problem for long enough someone solves it for you. The widow of John Keeley died and there was a big auction of all the stuff he had amassed over his life. One of the lots was the remains of a sorry looking Super engine minus lots of bits. Fortunately there was a crankcase and - most importantly - a crankshaft. The old man trooped down there with the intention of buying it come what may. A coupe of weeks later we had to do an 850 mile round trip in the LDV to pick it up. Here it is, upside down, on a pallet. The big bits that are missing are the cylinders, the camshafts, all of the valve gear and the water pump. Still, we stand a chance of getting a waggon number if we can identify it.




Peering through the crankcase door you can glimpse the crankshaft. Pretty much everything you can see is buggered.




Hosed down and on the workshop floor things look a bit better.




So you take it to bits and have a look. This is the crankshaft stripped of all its shafts and gears.




To give some idea of scale those are 3.5 tonne axlestands it is sitting on. Two people can just lift the bare crank. One of the avenues we explored was having a crankshaft made by LCR (who are an amazing company who can do some well impressive stuff) because it is way beyond our workshop capability. The estimate from LCR was that to manufacture what you are looking at there less the balance weights would be £14,000 plus yer dreaded, mate. When you saw what they were doing for the money we had no argument with the price. The problem was that it was £14K FFS. 


Just to jump forward a little so you can see what it is meant to look like this is the same crankshaft once we'd finished it. I'll fill in how it got to be like this but it should give an idea of how it works. The large lumps of metal on each end of the crank are the partially machined sprocket carriers. These spin freely on the crankshaft and are driven by shafts that pass the the hollow journals. It is unbelieveably heavy by this point. You see the massive main bearings? It needs them.




However, jump back to a close up on a couple of the diff gears. You can probably see that they are buggered.So the crank needed all new bushes (8 off), new drive shafts (2 off), new master gears (2 off) new diff pinions (2 off) and new diff gears (2 off). On top of that it needed to have the big end journals reground which we can't do so it had to go to the engine remanufacturers to be reground and that took a while for it to come back.




So from this exercise we have a very long list of things that need to be made/found to turn this into a working engine. However, work carries on other things. The steering box, cover, top bearing housing  and crank are were all done so now it needed the shaft and nut made. This is a left handed, two start ACME thread at 1" pitch which is a bit of a tall order to machine. Its a good thing the old man has had a bit of practce making these now so that wasn't too bad (for me - it took him several days). You need to cut a square thread first then go in with an ACME form tool so you need to kep your wits about you. These days threads like this would be rolled (and beautiful they would be too) but this is an oddball one so you would need to spring for the cost of the dies which is a no no.




Meh, not bad I suppose...




And this is the start of the front axle. The bend in the middle is so it goes around the boiler. Originally these were forged but we don't have a massive hammer so the approach we have taken was to make a pattern and have them cast in steel. Then we simply* weld them together in the middle. This also solves the problem of machining the axle since the whiole axle won't fit in our boring machine.




This is an extract from the parts book. Gives you a bit of an idea what the front axle beam is meant to look like.




And some long lengths of channel were delivered. You will be a chassis one day soon.




That will do for now. In the next thrilling installment some things are cast and other things are machined.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Never ceases to amaze me who is on AS. Excellent thread. I assume your old tractor is the one a gentleman collector in Essex now has.


We have engines too but much slower and noisier !


I believe it is living Essex way. In the last photo I saw of it from a couple of years ago it was still in the paint job and lettering we put on it so it should be a pretty easy spot.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Differential gears inside a crankshaft!

That is a genius bit of packaging and engineering design. Whoever worked that out first must have felt really very smug.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm utterly fascinated, really looking forwards to updates.

Can i ask how you go about registering the finished wagon?  i'm assuming it can't be treated as a new vehicle and go the BIVA route?

Whats the crack between rebuilding an existing boiler and making a completely new one? Paperwork and testing?

I love it that someone could identify the bits you bought at auction (and the fact someone was mad enough to save them for all this time!) rather than them ending up as scrap

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Most of this project involves turning large chunks of metal into turnings. In period many bits would have been cast in steel. However, that involves pattern making which is fine if you are making hundreds. For one or two you start with a billet and a big lathe. Here is the start of the drive gear blanks.




And here are some of the bits. The torque the engine can produce is frightening so these components are under some fairly scary loads. These are all made from EN24 which should hopefully be up to the job. What you can see here is an old drive shaft, two new drive shafts and two new diff pinions (the smaller ones with a lump at one end. The lump is the blank for the gear.




And here is a mostly assembled steering box. You can probably guess which end the steering wheel goes on. Note the lightweight* construction. You can just about lift this on your own.




More castings. This is the quadrant for the reversing lever and hand brake. The one at the back was a wrecked old one which was faked up with filler and wood. The one at the front is the aluminium casting taken from the pattern. They used aluminium because it was lightweight. This is like BMW bragging that the 5 Series has lightweight aluminium suspension and completely forgetting to tell you that each front seat weighs over a hundredweight.




And these lump of cast steel are the spring hangers. At the front the springs are anchored at the front (the hangers nearest the camera) and at the rear end of the spring it sits on a slipper than run on a dovetailed plate. The rear springs sit on slippers at both ends and the axle is located by a stout radius rod. This allos you to move the rear axle to get the chain tension right. So there are two fixed hangers and six floating slippers. A pattern got made for both types.




Detail of a floating slipper




This is some of the bits of the engine. The thing that looks like a piston is called a cross head. The thing fixed to the cross head is the con rod. You will probably spot that the construction isn't exactly Cosworth. The other big lump of metal is the stuffing box. This carries the glands that keep the steam and oil where they are supposed to be. The rusty bar in two pieces is one of the piston rods. Yet more metal to be turned into swarf to make new ones.




A delivery of metal. What is lying on this pallet is all the bar to make the shafts and gears for the differential. There is also the metal for the front axle hubs and the engine sprocket carriers. Once upon a time getting material like this was an absolute nightmare. Now were have forward thinking suppliers who will send you what you want in the spec you want and (really important this one) without you having to buy a full length of the stuff. We live in good times.




Pattern making was now in full swing. If you look up the page to the extract from the parts book for the front axle you will see the axle beam and two other lumps which are the swivels. These take the stub axles and allow them to be swung. The "pins" top and bottom is what they rotate on and the big funny shaped lumps take the bolts to fix the steering arms too. This design was another of Sentinel's "improvements". They also patented it so no one could copy it. I think this was Sentinel's idea of a joke.




Yet more castings. One big end was missing and the other was unsurprisingly shot. We took the old one and carefully built it up with filler to make a pattern. These are the bronze castings made from that pattern. The thing that looks like a scoop is a scoop for scooping up oil in a desperate attempt to keep the bearing surfaces oiled. This is what passed for engineering back then.




Enough of the castings already. I told you it would be a castings day. These are the C brackets for the front axle. These bolt to the axle beam and carry the lower bearing for the swivel above. You have probably worked out by now that there is a fairly mammoth machining effort looming.




Last bit of the axle jigsaw puzzle are the steering arms. These were drop forged originally but we'll have to start with steel castings. It will start to become apparent how this pile of raw castings join together to make a finished axle.




This is where we came in. The finished diff gear blanks. We can handle most stuff in our own workshop but gear hobbing is not one of the things we are set up for. The six blanks were taken to Leek Gears who are in Leek and machine gears. On top of that they are smashing, helpful people and I recommend them for all your gear cutting requirements.




That's enough tedium for one post. Next time we win* a trolley dash at the local railway preservation place and come away with most of the bits we need for the engine. Or at least bits we can use to make non-knackered bits.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Can i ask how you go about registering the finished wagon?  i'm assuming it can't be treated as a new vehicle and go the BIVA route?

Whats the crack between rebuilding an existing boiler and making a completely new one? Paperwork and testing?

I love it that someone could identify the bits you bought at auction (and the fact someone was mad enough to save them for all this time!) rather than them ending up as scrap


It looks like we have a number for the engine. We know which scrap dealer the engine came from before it ended up in Mr Keeley's yard and people have a good idea what went through that dealer's yard so we are pretty sure it is the engine from waggon 6982 which is a later waggon dating from 1927. It was first owned by Kelvin Transport in Alexandria (the one near Glasgow rather than the Egyptian one) so it has come back quite close to home. Hopefully we can get enough together to get an age related plate. We don't get that bent out of shape about original numbers. There is a reason for this but I won't go on about it.


Repairing/manufacturing is about the standards that are applied. If it is a "repair" then the standard that is applied is one that relates to the original design. This in itself can cause problems because getting hold of superceded BS documents  can be tricky. If it is manufactured then you apply the standards of the day. Personally speaking if I am sitting next to a large pressure vessel at 255psi then I'd like the very highest standards applied please. This place is fairly open so I won't vent my spleen on the subject of bodging 100 year old boilers back together on a wing and a prayer. It wouldn't be very interesting, either.


Our boilers are built to BS5750, certified by Lloyds and carry a CE mark which is what any pressure vessel needs to carry if you want to sell it commercially. We are engineers with a petro-chems background so documenting/manufacturing pressure vessels is something of which we have a little knowledge. Suffice to say a properly designed, manufactured and documented pressure vessel should have no problem getting insurance in future. I am not sure this is going to remain the case for all pressure vessels.


Finally, most of what John Keeley bought ended up as scrap in sheds and hedgerows. There were two sales - one of his motorbike collection which got a bit of coverage and one of everything else. The catalogue of his "collection" is still online.It gives the impression of a man who just bought anything.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Fascinating reading, and thanks for sharing. I shudder to think of the cost if you totted up your labour, if you were building the Super for a customer. The fact you’re actually doing it anyway is fantastic.

I’ve got a ‘63 Raleigh Superbe cycle sat in the garage. I reckon yours needs a name swap with mine - I’d rate yours as superb, not super!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Costs in terms of actually outlay are not horrific. You certainly couldn't buy much of a new car with it these days. However, on the few occasions that external machine shop assistance is needed (gear cutting and large diameter spherical turning are the only things so far) you become very aware of what workshop time should be costing and what it would cost to build something like this if you didn't have a semi-decent workshop of your own.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

..... most of what John Keeley bought ended up as scrap in sheds and hedgerows. There were two sales - one of his motorbike collection which got a bit of coverage and one of everything else. The catalogue of his "collection" is still online.It gives the impression of a man who just bought anything.




I think that's called "hoarding".

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By cobblers
      Train tickets booked from a train station 30 miles away to save £9 on the recommendation of the Mrs
      Mrs booked and primed ready to drop me off at said train station.

      Mobile tool kit primed and ready, missing almost every vital component due to EU regulations about leccy tape and screwdrivers on trains (I left them all at my mums house yesterday).
      If I do break down, I should have something to listen to while I work out whether I'm with the AA or RAC or none of the above.

      Not pictured: pile of cash
    • By Slowsilver
      For as long as I can remember I have been aware of a dead K-prefix Mondeo saloon languishing on the drive of a house about two streets away from here. It had obviously been sat there for many years without moving. I kept meaning to drop a note through the door enquiring about it, but as always I never got round to it.
      Until now.
      With Bob the Renault 6 currently on hold pending a possible sale after lockdown and the Maxi mothballed due to lack of places to take it to I was getting bored, so last Friday I did just that. Things moved on very rapidly from there.
      Timeline: Saturday morning.
      I received a phone call  from the owner's daughter, who informed me that her father had owned the car since it was 18 months old and cherished it for years, doing about 2 or 3 thousand miles a year in it until 2013, when it failed the MoT:
      Date tested 17 September 2013
      Mileage 70,926 miles
      Reason(s) for failure
      Service brake: efficiency below requirements (3.7.B.7) Brakes imbalanced across an axle (3.7.B.5b) He was told by the local garage he used that it would cost about £1000 to fix even if they could get the parts, which they said was doubtful. How can inefficient and unbalanced rear brakes cost that much to fix? And can Mondeo parts be unobtainium already? Maybe I will find out in due course.
      Anyway, he decided that was more than the car was worth but, being very attached to it, he simply parked it on the drive and left it there.
      Apparently he died about 3 years ago but his wife couldn't bear to see it go, so there it stayed until now.
      Coincidentally his wife died a few weeks ago, so I hope my approach didn't seem like grave robbing. Their daughter was planning to have the car taken away for scrap, so I was intending to offer her scrap value for it and see if it could be saved. However, she was so pleased at the prospect of her dad's beloved motor being revived that, without me making an offer, she immediately offered it to me for the princely sum of zero pounds. She also agreed that quicksilver and myself could work on it where it sat until such time as we could move it. She said that she would endeavour to find the V5 and the keys.
      Timeline: Saturday afternoon.
      Checking the registration online showed it to be a 2.0i Ghia, built in Belgium in May 1993 and registered in the UK on 15th June 1993. K prefix registrations ran from August 1992 to July 1993 but the Mondeo was not launched in the UK until 22nd March 1993, so had been in production less than three months, making this a very early Mark 1. Has been on SORN since September 2013.
      Let's go and see what we have.
      It's walking distance so that counts as exercise doesn't it 😃.
      Didn't even know if it was a manual or an automatic. Turns out it's a 5-speed manual.
      Apart from flat tyres it doesn't look to bad from a distance.

      But what about the blind side next to the fence. Fortunately it had been parked far enough away to see it.

      Urgh! It's green instead of blue.

      Back of the roof has bloomed badly, but laquer doesn't appear to have peeled.
      We took a cordless tyre inflator so the first job was to attempt to pump the tyres up. We weren't very hopeful as it had been sitting here for 7 years. The two nearside tyres had 0psi in them, the offside front had about 7psi in it and the offside rear had about 12psi in it.
      They were all pumped up to a nominal 30psi and appeared to stay up.
      Timeline: Sunday afternoon.
      Let's take a bucket of soapy water round and give it a quick swill.
      Three tyres still up. Nearside rear flat again. 75% success rate. Not bad. Pumped the flat one back up again.
      Throw bucket of water over car and apply sponge and nylon brush.
      While washing it we noticed bubbles issuing from from a tiny pinhole in the bottom of the sidewall of the nearside rear tyre.
      That will be why it went flat again then. It looks like there may have been a thorn or a sharp piece of stone on the drive next to the bottom of the tyre and when it went completely flat the weight of the car pushed it through the sidewall. 

      That's looking better.
      Not much more we can do without the keys as it's all locked up.
      Timeline: Monday morning.
      Another phone call from the daughter. She is at the house and has found the V5 and one key. Also handbook and service record. Thinks there may be another key somewhere. We wander round there and do the necessary paper work. It is now offically ours!
      Timeline: Monday afternoon.
      Send off new keeper slip and SORN declaration.
      This time we have to take the Zafira full of tools in an attempt to get it moving.
      It has been left with the handbrake on and the front discs look well rusty, so I  bet the brakes have seized on.
      Takes 2 hands to lift the handbrake lever, then 2 hands to press the button and release the ratchet.
      Rock the car gently and, wonder of wonders, all four wheels appear to rotate. First hurdle overcome.
      Don't want to bore you guys but some of you might like to know our technique for attempting to revive a long-dead engine, honed at various Field of Dreams chod-tinkerings.
      Check oil and water levels. Oil  looks pretty clean so probably serviced not long before it was laid up.
      Remove spark plugs. These all look in good condition.
      Pour a spoonful of engine oil into each cylinder just to give some extra bore lubrication on initial turn over.
      Engine compartment is so cramped that can't see an easy way to try and turn the engine with a spanner, so drop a long screwdriver into one of the spark plug holes so that it rests on top the piston, engage fourth gear and attempt to push the car down the drive, which fortunately has a reasonable downward slope. Watch the screwdriver and, sure enough, we see it rising. The engine isn't seized, thank goodness we don't have another Bob on our hands.
      Because the owner's other car was parked alongside we could not get the Zafira in to jump the battery so we connected up one of the two knackered old batteries we had brought round. Didn't want to risk connecting across a totally dead battery and shorting out the other one, so left the positive terminal connected to the original battery but disconnected the earth wires from the original battery and connected the negative jump lead to the isolated leads, thus removing the original battery from the system. Doing it this way ensures that the positive connections are still kept clear of any metalwork that could cause a short and the negative connection is earthed anyway, so doesn't matter if that touches any other metal. Turned on the ignition and, lo and behold, we have assorted dashboard warning lights.
      Hit the starter. Click. We were right, this battery is knackered.
      Try the other one. Whirr, whirr, the engine spins over. Let it spin until the oil pressure light goes out.
      Clean the plugs with a wire brush (not that they appeared to need it) and replace them. Reconnect the HT leads, making sure they are in the right order. Chug, chug, chug. Engine reluctantly turns over but not fast enough to fire.
      Remember we have a the tiny but powerful Chinese jump pack in the glove box of the Zafira, so this is deployed. Chug, chug, cough, splutter, BLOODY HELL IT'S ONLY RUNNING!
      Remove jump pack and it is still running on the alternator output.
      Leave it running while we check the condition of the spare wheel. Full size alloy, not one of these horrible space-saver things. Appears to have some air in it. Pump it up and fit it to the nearside rear. Try driving it up and down the drive to test the brakes. As we expected they were not great, but worked well enough to stop it eventually. Unfortunately the handbrake would also stop the car but the ratchet would not re-engage so having freed off the brakes it now insisted on rolling down the drive. So we took a deep breath and, leaving everything behind, we set off for home.
      No collection thread as the distance involved was about 500 yards, but target achieved with no problems, except for the power-assisted steering, which apparently now isn't. Have a cup of tea then walk back round to pile all the detritus back into the Zafira and drive it home.

      Gone. Mossy piece of tarmac blinking in the sunlight for the first time in 7 years.

      In its new home. Bob is not impressed by this non-French interloper and turns his back on it.
      Let's see what we have.

      Nicely mouldy steering wheel. Oh look, footwell lights. I say, how posh, did I mention it's a Ghia.

      Illuminated vanity mirrors. Can this get any posher?

      Optional giffer pack included.

      Lots of damp and mouldy boot trim now basking in the sunshine.
      So, what is the overall assessment.
      On cursory inspection it appears to have zero rot on the bodywork or the underside.
      Haven't tried everything yet. A few of the lights don't work (hopefully just bulbs or mouldy connections). Nor do the screenwashers.
      The two main problems seem to be the non-working power steering and the ABS warning light being on. But haven't had time for in-depth investigations yet, so here's hoping an MoT can be passed eventually. No rush, it is a lockdown project after all.
      By now I am sure you are all bored to death so I will stop rambling.
      Bloody hell these threads take a long time to compile.
      Stay tuned for more developments. Or not.

    • By L fallax
      I’ve been considering making a topic for progress with my Felicia for a little while, I want to reflect on what’s been done in a more organised fashion compared to flicking through photos on my phone. 
      I’ve had a keen interest on older generation Skoda for quite some time (100series-Facelift Felicia), I bought this 1999 T reg Skoda Felicia mid April. Would of loved to buy the pre-facelift model but sadly most seem to have been scrapped, however mine does come with the 1.3 OHC engine -the same used in Rapid 136’s, albeit slightly modernised and with Bosch fuel injection producing a whopping 67bhp. 

      First pic after a wash. Missing headlight trim, dinged rear OS door, NS fender is a bit bashed in as the original owner must of had a bit of a bash, the whole bumper sits a little lopsided. Hopefully can get the bodywork pulled at some point.

      This is my first car that I’ve bought with my own money, so naturally wanted to put in the effort to get her running smoothly with some maintenance: new oil & filter, air filter, coolant flush, wipers, bulbs, spark plugs, valve cover gasket etc.
      Engine bay needed multiple washes to clean up, looked a right bombsite when I bought it, some neglect was evident from past owner!
      Three and a half months later and my Felly is now road legal (due to issues with DVLA and V62), what a jolly little car to drive though! The exhaust blows like a wet fart when you press the accelerator but it’s very comical. (Obviously will fix this when I’ve the money, haha.) 

       Driving around aimlessly I’ve covered around 160 miles in a couple of days.  I decided to drain the gearbox and refreshed it with some 75W90 SS Gl4, after a few embarrasing car park CRUNCHES into reverse gear enough was enough, definitely was well overdue a change and now it’s silky smooth. 

      Blue Lagoon Metallic is the colour for anyone wondering.
      (Removed the faded Skoda badge and sprayed the 3D Favorit badge and grill black - perhaps not to everyone’s taste but it’s my car 😄)
      Next to do is fit new brake discs & yellowstuff pads which have been sat in the boot for a couple months, need to file the edge of the pads down a tad and find a way to remove the locking pin screw from the disc- I can’t seem to get them to turn using an impact screwdriver but perhaps I just need to hit harder!
      The goal is to fit a few unnecessary modifications,  just some stiffer lowering springs and alloy wheels with good tyres. Nothing too crazy. The ride is pretty good, very little body roll, the strut brace seems to work well. A very throwable and responsive supermini, town and rural road driving is an awful lot of fun. 
      If anyone has some Favorit "Skoda" mudflaps let me know as I really would like to replace the ones that are fitted!
      Updates to come.
      All welcome to share thoughts and stories alike 🙂 
    • By strangeangel
      I thought I'd start a thread for this as I'll probably end up asking all sorts of questions, given that this is my first 'proper' Citroën.
      So... the ground clearance lever won't go all the way to the highest setting (all others work), which is bad 'cos the book says I need it to do that in order to check the LHM level. It feels like something's seized, so I don't want to force it. Any ideas for a plan of attack would be much appreciated.
      Next up are the wheels. I now have a set of 205 pepperpots that have just gone off for powder coating & I need to get some tyres for them. The handbook says the car should have 165/70R14s on, the wheels came with 185/65R14 on. Any thoughts about what size I should get please? Cheers.
  • Create New...