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Everything posted by JimH

  1. JimH

    Bodge Jobs

    One bodge I witnessed but had no idea of the back story was an elderly Panda I found myself sitting next to at some traffic lights. The first thing that drew my eye was that the top edge of what passed for a dashboard in those cars had corroded to the point you could see daylight beneath the windscreen. The next thing I noticed was that the bottom half of the door skins had been repaired using what looked for all the world like a Hostess Trolley. What made this very obvious was that the tasteful woodgrain effect plastic coating was still visible. Classy. Talking to the old man of the days when MOTs were a bit less trict there were a few interesting ones appeared at his old man's garage. Most were related to catastrophic levels of corrosion but one that stuck in the mind was a Beetle the front discs of which had worn to the point that the disc had torn itself from the hub flange. I've seen them thin but never that thin.
  2. JimH

    Bodge Jobs

    "Professional" pride means I've not been responsible for too many long term bodges. A short term solution to a failed throttle body heater cover on the P38 in the middle of nowhere in the pitch black was effected with a Brittany Birch crochet hook and two bottles of Schweppes tonic water. The best "There I done fixed it" bodge I have independent verification of was a relative who purchased a very frilly Lancia Beta coupe. He didn't know much about welding and bodywork but he did know his concrete. The solution not only provided much needed strength to the structure of the car it also lowered the vehicle's centre of gravity somewhat.
  3. It's been a while since the last update and a few things have gone on so we'd better have a catch up. When we last saw them most of the castings for the rear axle had just been delivered. This meant that someone who doesn't have a proper job had to spend most of his time standing in front of the boring machine turning them into something useful. Here are the brake shoes ready for lining. They are cast as a pair then separated, however, we have left them as one piece for lining so once the lining is on them it is easier to pick up a diameter to machine the brake drum to. Annoyingly the first quote for lining them came back as just shy of £800 which seems a bit strong to us so we'll just get some linings and rivet them on as per the original design ourselves. Then there was a big pile of SG iron that was to get turned into a rear axle. Sadly we are not good at taking pictures so there is quite a jump. This is the spring pad on the near side bolted onto the spring with the radius rod in place. The thing was we didn't have a measurement for the axle beam itself and with so many dimensions that you are trying to meet you have to start somewhere. Now the spring pads are in place we can get a width for the axle beam. The piece of channel and two studs is temporary. The proper thing is a piece of 1" plate with four studs. The radius rods are adjustable and allow the chains to be tensioned. The hole at the bottom takes the brake actuating shaft and you can see the hole at the top that takes the pivot pin for the brake shoes. A spring slipper that allows the whole rear axle to be moved front to back. You start to spot where there were a few quick wins to help improve payload. And a closer view of the off side. The funny block at the bottom with the cover bolted to it is an oil bath to keep the brake shaft lubricated. Why they did this is completely lost on me because it causes nothing but trouble - mostly to do with depositing oil on the brake drum. The eagle eyed may be able to spot that we have machined it to take proper modern oil seals and they will get lubricated with grease like what they should have done at the start. At the other end of the radius rod there is a palm which bolts to the engine suspension plate. The exciting thing is that all of this lined up absolutely bang on first time. Now what is needed is the big bit of bar that joins the two spring pads together. As you can see this is a very big bit of bar indeed. This is where having a big lathe is very handy. What else? The brakes are getting there slowly. This is the brake cylinder mounting all tidied up and bolted in place. The spindle isn't supposed to poke out the back of it but it is because the piston hasn't been made for it yet. The front cover for the cylinder took an age to make for some reason. Anyway, it's done now. And some more links getting made for the brake system. In this case yet another yoke for the hand brake rod and crank for the handbrake actuating shaft (part way there which is why it is covered in welding spatter. The water pump valve block got finished and here it is sitting in its rightful place. This allows you to either direct water to the boiler or spill it back to the tank. The bulb at the top is supposed to smooth out the flow a bit. Hmmmmm. Properly fiddly casting this one and a right pain to machine. The funny Y shaped fork at the bottom takes the lever which operates the by-pass valve. And as an aside here is the S with its tipping body propped up while it gets the new tappets made and fitted to the inlet valves. They've all come back from the heat treatment place so they are ready to go on and set up. Tipping bodies are a complete and utter pain in the arse and I am never having anything to do with them ever again. Note all of the asbestos string. Pretty, eh? Back to the Super. One of the jobs I'd been putting off was trying to do something with the cab roof. Namely trying to bend the bloody ash beams to shape. I did some reading on this and watched some YewToob videos on the subject which were mostly to do with furniture making but it was better than nowt. Right, off we go. First measure things and work out what radius you want to bend it to. Now take a large sheet of boiler plate and mark out the radius on that. Cut 18 bits of 2" angle then weld them to the plate to form a jib to which the hot wood can be clamped - I've got no pictures of any of this by the way. Now we need something to steam the wood. Reading suggested we needed a bit of 4" drain pipe and a wall paper stripper. What we ended up with was a 4" drain pipe and a crappy domestic steam cleaner which would run for the three hours or so that the wood needed to steamfor. So, bung the wood in, set it going and three hours later whip it out and clamp it to the jig. Leave it to dry for three days as recommended and hey presto! Oh bollocks. I'd set the jig up the for the radius we wanted. The idea that the woood would spring back slightly didn't cross my worried mind. Fortunately I'd tried to bend the tight radius first which meant that the tight radius was now very close to the other beam we needed. Right, grind all the angle brackets off and re-set them on a guess as to how much the wood was going to spring back. Repeat the exercise only using a piece of aluminium pipe because uPVC pipe can't really take the temperature for that long. Oh bollocks. Too far. Reset the jig again and try again. Oh bollocks. Too far the other way. It was at this point it occured that ash may be good for steam bending but I doubt that it was going to take too many cookings before I wrecked something. It also occured that the chances of hitting the exact radius needed was somewhere close to zero. It was at this point we decided to stick at 19 and make a firring piece to get the radius spot on that way. I took a strip of tulipwood and glued it with Cascamite to the top of the beam. Then after planing and sanding it it ends up with a join that once it is painted you would never know it was there. Now the radius can be marked out by measurement and after buying a cheapy bench sander here... It was possible to sand the firring piece to the correct radius. Here's the front one in place And the rear one. The beams were supposed to be held in place with finger joints but because the "ash" bend is metal in our case I have bolted the beams in from the ends using barrel nuts so you can't see very much at all. Note the roof planks sitting in just the right place. All of this wood is painted in a sandy beige colour so the mis-match in the types of wood shouldn't be too obvious. The only real cost is reducing headroom in the rear a little. So after only a couple of weekends it is ready to put the roof planks on. Once the planks are on it will be covered in duck canvas to help keep the rain out. I think we'll be doing the curved beams for the body as glu-lam rather than hot formed - unless someone tells me how you bend these things properly to the right radius. I really don't fancy trying to hot form eight of these things to the same radius.
  4. Back in the office and found a camera. Santa brought me a handy book about E Types. The market has changed everso slightly since this book was written. They've got much better at covering up major structural corrosion for one. Thanks Santa.
  5. That going from 1st P to 1st E is pointless and stupid isn't really the point. You could never call yourself a Super Shift Master until you had fully mastered the full range of shift patterns.
  6. Hmmm, I reckon with a little modification to the shape of the levers and some clever hand/finger movements you could make that work as a splitter. It could become the most useless driving skill ever developed. Option 2 is to always have a passenger and get them in on the act.
  7. Isn't it just? What a fantastic way to get the rear door as wide as possible.
  8. Was it possible to shift while in motion, giving you a splitter and letting you pretend you drove a big lorry?
  9. Obscure memories of an obscure television programme where an obscure Japanese car was mentioned. I have a recollection of many years ago seeing something on telly where a copper was talking about solving a case where a child had been abducted. According to the copper the only thing they had to go on was what little the kid could remember about being bundled into the back of a car which had no rear doors, vinyl seats with funny stitching and wind up windows in the rear. The copper pointed out that it meant that it was clearly Japanese and could only be one car sold in Blighty. He named the car and said after that solving the case was a doddle. What was the car? I cannot remember what it was and it's been sort of nagging for years and years for some reason.
  10. I'm quite sure Google has the answer but is any resemblance to the Sunbeam entirely coincidental?
  11. Finish the house. At least start to finish the other house. Do more paying work. Discover a way to manage without sleep. You know, the usual things.
  12. I am not be rude, ungrateful or lazy. My SS gift is sitting on my desk which is about 200 miles away at the moment. If I am guilty of anything it is being forgetful.
  13. Bit slow on this one. Anyone who says anything even remotely derogatory about Bristols is a hopeless case who understands nothing. This is fact. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. One of my prized possessions is a copy of LJKS’ two volume masterwork. This is probably as close as I will come to owning one. Heart says 403, head says 411, Post Office book says ropey 5 Series. That said, I wouldn’t turn down a Longchamp GTS.
  14. There doesn’t appear to have been a mention of The Comic Strip Presents: Dirty Movie so far. It isn’t but there is some hardcore Type 70 action in it.
  15. Someone asking about a lathe set me off on my semi-regular search to see if anyone was selling a suitable boring machine. Instead I found this story of an unsuitable one.
  16. It was going so very well and then you blew it with pre-sets on the radio.
  17. Many years ago we sold and delivered one of these to a man in Preston. He had some very, very big Scammells in his shed. This is a library photo of a Garner tractor. As you can probably see for yourself it was a very, very silly thing and I cannot for the life of me remember how we came to have it.
  18. Tell you what though. The next Preston Guild is set for 2032 so if you delayed your plans a little you could catch that at the same time.
  19. There was also the BBC comedy All Quiet on the Preston Front that was quite good. After the first series it was changed to just Preston Front for some reason and it became a bit shit. I don’t think there is a museum dedicated to the show so I’m not sure how you could build this information into your itinerary.
  20. However, a must visit and no mistake.
  21. So the people of Preston actually have the moon on a stick. You would have thought they would have been more cheerful about it.
  22. Smashing, that. For no reason whatsoever let's have a Metro advert which was chosen entirely at random.
  23. I did not know that. I've just read a paper on the subject of using water based coolants when machining SG iron. Fortunately the stuff we machine in SG is always done without coolant. Every day's a school day, yeah?
  24. Some exciting things arrived on Monday. Someone who wasn't me had to trail down to darkest Lincolnshire to pick up some patterns and castings for the last big bit that needs made - the rear axle. Wee bits first - the pattern for the radius rod ends. The rear axle can float around to keep the tension on the chains right and it is held in place by a pair of rods which are fixed to the engine suspension plates. And there are two rods with an end at each end so we need four rod ends. And as if by magic using only sand and molten metal you make four of them. Then the radius rods need something to mount on. A radius rod palm first in wood... The black bit is to locate the core. (casting things can get very complicated and pattern makers have to think in ways that makes my head hurt) Then wood becomes metal. You need two of these. Next you need some brakes. These aren't too different to those found on the back of your shitter, just bigger. The pattern... And then the real thing. The brake shoes are cast in one piece. This makes it much easier to machine the outside diameter. They get split in two after they've been machined. And finally you need something for it all to sit on. The spring pad. Pattern making is bit of an art. And a big lump of SG iron. There is a lot of machining to turn this little lot into an axle. The axle beam slips through the hollow round hole. The square box at the bottom is an oil reservoir to keep the brake shafts lubricated. What we need then is a couple of hubs and we are nearly there.
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