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Posted

Is this safe/acceptable? I.e. on ramps one side.

 

e0bf5dc24914b5e6666a447c7f135088.jpg

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Give it a wobble and it seems stable, but unsure if I'm missing something obviously dangerous. I can't find anything on line to say it's not ok.

Posted

Is this safe/acceptable? I.e. on ramps one side.

 

e0bf5dc24914b5e6666a447c7f135088.jpg

98f30a96bac3c022229f505fe9fce840.jpg

 

Give it a wobble and it seems stable, but unsure if I'm missing something obviously dangerous. I can't find anything on line to say it's not ok.

Would have no issues with that other than putting chocks under the wheels at the other side

Posted

Sharpness is the key to cutting, material/treatment is the key to maintaining sharpness.

So providing the bit is sharp you could use some regular HSS bits and use the drill sharpener to keep them keen?

Posted

Phone question guys. I have an almost new iPhone 4s Global. It was a Nephews in NZ and locked to EE. It got lost and reported missing, probably to get a new phone. I want to go Vodaphone with Sim only. Can't go back for a code to EE, so can it be unlocked by a shop or whizz kid? Not worth while?

 

Can a mod shift this if in wrong place? Cheers

Probably not worthwhile, if reported stolen in NZ it *theoretically* will also be here and if unlocked would not get a signal due to being blacklisted.

 

Check the serial number on here before spending anything.

 

https://imei24.com/blacklist_check

Posted

Would have no issues with that other than putting chocks under the wheels at the other side

Yeah chocked on the other side. I wasn't 100% so I also stuffed a (probably rotten) wood post offcuts down the ramp too.

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  • Like 2
Posted

If you can find somewhere solid to jack to lift one end then spinning one of the ramps round 180 degrees would do away with the need for those posts

Posted

I could do with some decent drill bits. Are cobalt essential for drilling hardened metal?

 

Is sharpeness the key over and above what it’s coated with?

Cobalt drills for hardened metal. In fact better for everything really. What you drilling? 

Posted

Do any central Scotland shiters have a hydraulic press and wouldn't mind pressing in a front wheel bearing for me?

 

It's the Citroen C1, the NSF is groaning.a

 

I don't even have the bearing yet, so it won't be until this weekend or next likely.

Posted

Holes :D

 

 

I actually expected a 'your mum' - there........ 

  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah chocked on the other side. I wasn't 100% so I also stuffed a (probably rotten) wood post offcuts down the ramp too.

1819a8e98b485626c0eba83708be16c8.jpgade0b20223f804d5daa991116e9c1920.jpg

If you are still uncomfortable about being under it I have put ratchet straps round the wheels through the ramps before and they inspire confidence.

Posted

Alternator terminals.

 

When I replaced the alternator in the Saab just before xmas I removed a 2 terminal one, and replaced it with an identical unit but fitted with 3 terminals. (1.9 Diesel Denso type). The main B+ terminal was fitted as before, the smaller wire was fitted to the terminal in the same position as the previous.

 

If there was a 3rd wire to connect to the new alternator, I'd naturally have fitted it. Have I 1) got the second wire on the wrong terminal? or 2) is my wiring or some other component fucked?

Posted

Alternator terminals.

 

When I replaced the alternator in the Saab just before xmas I removed a 2 terminal one, and replaced it with an identical unit but fitted with 3 terminals. (1.9 Diesel Denso type). The main B+ terminal was fitted as before, the smaller wire was fitted to the terminal in the same position as the previous.

 

If there was a 3rd wire to connect to the new alternator, I'd naturally have fitted it. Have I 1) got the second wire on the wrong terminal? or 2) is my wiring or some other component fucked?

What are the terminals labelled?

 

B+, L and F?

 

According to Saab WIS, F provides the engine ECUs with generator load. "Generator connection F is not used in cars with diesel engine or petrol engine Z18XE.".

 

L is the battery light and field winding wire. I.e. goes to the battery warning light. On a modern car this goes into the ECU for the ECU to manage it and light the necessary dash lights when needed to.

 

B+ is to the battery

Posted

Alternator fitted to car has no labels on the terminals. I've connected to the 2 arrowed in the diagram. The previous alternator had only the 2 arrowed terminals (identical post positions for other 2).

 

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Posted

1.8 petrol vectra ? I’d be checking the breather pipes into the throttle body . The small one goes into a tiny hole and blocks up easily

pulled the pipe off and there was some muck in the throttle body pipe. cleared some and the light went out but it has come on again.

I am a bit wary what to use and how far in to the throttle body to clear.

 

Unless it’s something a bit more in depth I’d just borrow/buy a cheap reader. What you’ve got there would be handy if you’ve got a spare laptop. I say spare cause a lot of this software is riddled with viruses. A cheap reader should be easy less than a tenner.

what type would be suitable, either of the below?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diagnostic-Car-Engine-Fault-Code-Scanner-Reader-Reset-Tool-OBD-2-CAN-BUS-EOBD/223103792575?epid=2122563386&hash=item33f205b5bf:g:mG0AAOSwgcVbFlEk

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Fault-Scanner-Engine-Reset-OBD-OBDII-OBD2-Diagnostic-Code-Reader-CAN-BUS-UK/292270324804?epid=26008832884&hash=item440cab3c44:g:POsAAOSw2FVbTyGa

Posted

pulled the pipe off and there was some muck in the throttle body pipe. cleared some and the light went out but it has come on again.

I am a bit wary what to use and how far in to the throttle body to clear.

Carb or brake cleaner & as far in as you can get, just don't leave bits of cloth in there afterwards.

Posted

Anyone the owner of an exceptionally nice looking Skoda Octavia MK1 in white registration ending in XSB... HubNut sticker on the rear view mirror, spotted in a layby near Reddish. If so, I commend you on having one of the nicest looking Octavia mk1s I have seen

Posted

Phone question guys. I have an almost new iPhone 4s Global. It was a Nephews in NZ and locked to EE. It got lost and reported missing, probably to get a new phone. I want to go Vodaphone with Sim only. Can't go back for a code to EE, so can it be unlocked by a shop or whizz kid? Not worth while?

 

Can a mod shift this if in wrong place? Cheers

Almost new iPhone 4?

 

Anyway, no if it's locked then it's locked globally as Apple do their own authentication against a network unlike all other manufacturers who let the networks deal with it (with the effect that a network bar is usually just for one country)

 

It has to be Apple that unlocks it too. There's shady ways, it'll normally lock itself as soon as it does an update or you change the SIM.

 

There is a techy thread on the open forum with this type of stuff in btw. I'll leave this here for now though.

Posted

Right, more help please. 

 

The previous owner fixed* lots of saggy vinyl issues on door cards by gaffer taping them over. When the old tape lost adhesion due to heat/UV exposure, he just put more over the top. 

 

I'm slowing sorting them by taking them off and stretching the vinyl back over and anchoring on the rear, but I'm left with a vast quantity of gaffer tape glue on everything. Due to the summer heat its all baked hard (i.e. its not sticky) with flaky bits of the white reinforcing mesh stuck to it. 

 

What can I remove it with? Carb cleaner works really well, but is discoloring the vinyl. WD40 was recommended elsewhere, but that just makes it slippery. Suggestions please? 

Posted

pulled the pipe off and there was some muck in the throttle body pipe. cleared some and the light went out but it has come on again.

I am a bit wary what to use and how far in to the throttle body to clear.

 

what type would be suitable, either of the below?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diagnostic-Car-Engine-Fault-Code-Scanner-Reader-Reset-Tool-OBD-2-CAN-BUS-EOBD/223103792575?epid=2122563386&hash=item33f205b5bf:g:mG0AAOSwgcVbFlEk

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Fault-Scanner-Engine-Reset-OBD-OBDII-OBD2-Diagnostic-Code-Reader-CAN-BUS-UK/292270324804?epid=26008832884&hash=item440cab3c44:g:POsAAOSw2FVbTyGa

Either, they are a muchness really, get one, plug it in and see what it says, you’ve a rough idea then the area it may be. Carb cleaner for the throttle body. Pipes are tricky to clean out, I’d price up a new one, sometimes on Corsas the top breather pipe blocks, a new one is about £7, it’s hardly worth trying to poke it through.

Posted

Right, more help please. 

 

The previous owner fixed* lots of saggy vinyl issues on door cards by gaffer taping them over. When the old tape lost adhesion due to heat/UV exposure, he just put more over the top. 

 

I'm slowing sorting them by taking them off and stretching the vinyl back over and anchoring on the rear, but I'm left with a vast quantity of gaffer tape glue on everything. Due to the summer heat its all baked hard (i.e. its not sticky) with flaky bits of the white reinforcing mesh stuck to it. 

 

What can I remove it with? Carb cleaner works really well, but is discoloring the vinyl. WD40 was recommended elsewhere, but that just makes it slippery. Suggestions please? 

 

Sticky stuff remover?

 

https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/293673837

Posted

Have had the Oxford out on a round trip bimble to the parents, and my Dad had his first trip in it.

 

It's squealling like a fucker from the dynamo. Lubricating the rear bearing with 3 in one oil quietens it down but not for long.

 

Any ideas?

Posted

If you can find somewhere solid to jack to lift one end then spinning one of the ramps round 180 degrees would do away with the need for those posts

Just seen this.

 

I jacked it up each end individually and did consider doing that. My fear by doing that was not it rolling off, but slipping off both. Probably unfounded. I over imagine things sometimes.

Posted

Have had the Oxford out on a round trip bimble to the parents, and my Dad had his first trip in it.

 

It's squealling like a fucker from the dynamo. Lubricating the rear bearing with 3 in one oil quietens it down but not for long.

 

Any ideas?

Find an alternator to chuck on, kits for the Minor are less than £100 so MG stuff should be easy to find too.

  • Like 2
Posted

I paid £40 for my alternator on the MGB. But then mine already had an alternator, so only needed alternator.

 

12G1053 appears to be the bracket to convert an MGB from dynamo to alternator on early blocks.

Posted

I have an alternator for the 1800, and after posting on the Oxford Facebook group, someone has offered me a working dynamo for the cost o postage:)

 

All good! Just need to fit stuff

Posted

What's a reasonable amount of time to second offer the Oldsmobile? Winning bidder hasn't replied in hours and hours now...and the advert mentioned a tight turnaround necessary.

Posted

Where's the Open section disappeared to? It was there a minute ago...

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