The new news 24 thread

[RayMK]

Yesterday I started my 1961 Reliant Regal and reversed out of the garage in order to check everything prior to an MOT.  I could not detect any play in the kingpin or wheel bearings, tyres have stacks of tread, sidewalls were not cracked (elderly crossplies) and the chassis and suspension looked fine underneath.  The chassis is painted, not undersealed, so it's easy to spot problem areas. I removed each rear brake drum in turn to inspect for weeping cylinders.  They were also fine.  I deglazed the linings and thoroughly cleaned the drum inner surfaces.  All lights, indicators, horn, wipers and washer (manual plunge button) worked satisfactorily.  The handbrake and footbrake seemed ok in a brief test over 50 metres, repeated a few times. I therefore booked an MOT for Wednesday 3rd May.  I put the car back in the garage and, as I got out, noticed the driver's seat was a bit wobbly.  Reliant seats of this vintage are ultra lightweight aluminium framed things of extremely basic design and cannot be described as sturdy.  The wobbles however were found to originate from the rear of the tubular frame which runs along the floor then curves upwards to the pivoting backrest.  The tube had completely fractured.  I had piled all the junk and my mobility scooter behind the Reliant, blocking it in, when I put it back in the garage.  Rather than removing said junk etc and reversing the car on to the drive again to work comfortably, I struggled in the restricted space between car and my moped to remove the seat.  Fortunately, once the seat was dismantled I could repair the fractured tube by internally sleeving it with suitable length of steel tube which I happened to find in my hoard of potentially useful bits which rarely get used.  With a couple of 2mm holes and self tappers to peg  the repair, the seat was strong* again.  It only wobbled as much as Reliant intended once back in the car.

 

Today, my son's Tipo needed a replacement alternator fitted.  Fiat, in their wisdom, decided that putting the alternator behind the engine where there is little room to swing a spanner, was a brilliant idea as it would force customers to take the car to a garage or main dealer.  With the front of the car on ramps, I stared at this wonderfully sited component for 10 minutes and groped around to find the fixings and brackets because they were difficult to identify from the very limited visual access above or below the car.  The anti-roll bar and driveshaft provided further obstacles to access.  I decided that DIY was possible but expected a long, fiddly job.  I was right on both counts.  Starting at 11am, the plastic wheelarch shield was removed.  That bit was surprisingly easy.  Battery disconnected, then electrical connection to the alternator disconnected (one retained by a small nut, the other just a spade connector.  Not too bad so far.   The main pivot bolt undid without a fight and tapped out - it's about 6 inches long - also releasing the belt guide roller which shares the same bolt.  Then the fun started.  The top part of the alternator is fastened to the belt adjustment bracketry, the fixings for which were out of sight and require a spanner at one end and a socket or ring spanner at the other when undoing them.  The steering pump V belt gets in the way at one end and the heater plumbing makes life difficult at the other, further restricting the ratchet driver swing room which is already limited by the aforementioned roll bar and driveshaft.  After an hour, the old alternator was extricated.  I then had to swap the ribbed pulley from this to the new unit.  Using the old belt to assist with clamping grip, the pulley nut was removed and pulley slid off (I have not got a rattle gun to make jobs like this easier).  Getting the retaining nut off the new alternator was even more difficult as there was only the freely rotating shaft to grip. Why did they need to bang the nut on tight!!!!  With judicious use of bits of metal and a vice, plus some very powerful expletives, the bloody nut released.  The pulley was then transferred to the new alternator and retained using the nut.  This 'simple' task absorbed another hour.  Under the car again, the new unit was coaxed into position and the long pivot bolt and guide roller re-installed (loosely at this stage).  I could not get the top brackets to align sufficiently to get the bolts in.  Try number two involved removing the long pivot bolt and trying to hang the unit from the adjuster bracket.  That went tolerably well and the long pivot bolt slid in again.  Then I noticed a missing nut from a bracket just above the alternator adjustment bracket.  I could not remember removing it and could not find a nut looking for a home.  I could not ignore it because I was able to push the bolt though far enough to contact the steering pump belt.  A search amongst my ample selection of nuts gave a handful of possible recruits.  Another hour passed as I tried and failed to find anything that would fit.  Bollocks.  The only way to solve this problem was to remove the effing F**k** alternator, remove the effing bolt and find a nut from my 40 years collection in the comfort of my garage.  This was achieved in a few minutes, the bolt put where it came from and tightened up. The effing alternator was then refitted from the top bracket and the long bolt reinserted and electrical connections re-secured.  I then spent another delightful hour trying to hang on the alternator whilst wedging between the engine block with a bit of wood and simultaneously tightening the adjustment bolt  which I could not see.  Despite many attempts, the new ribbed belt would not tension as much as I would like.  I did the best I could and hoped the belt would not squeal like the old one.  Wheel arch cover reinstalled, battery reconnected, started, charging light went out (it had been glowing dimly most of the time, hence the replacement alternator - CBA with just changing the regulator) and the belt only squealed slightly with everything turned on.  On a wet day, the squealing may get worse.  In due course, I'll probably have to make a screw type tensioner to jack the alternator to the required position.   5 bloody hours  .    

[Noel Tidybeard]

update of the update....

 

we got about 12 miles before the metro coughed, spluttered and stopped.

 

seems that the spark has either leaked out, or it just escaped.

 

suspects are the condenser or the coil. as these are available in our box of spares, so we are going to swap these bits out, and see if that makes any difference.

 

if not, 

 

then i don't flippin' know.......

 

points & condensor? were metros not using electronic ign by 1989?

[trigger]

I've been a bit worried as there was signs of K seal in the 620ti's water bottle, then today i noticed there was a puddle of water under the front (I've not used it for a week), my dad was round so a little investigation work found that the water pump was leaking and had been for some time (hence the K seal bodge) so a quick trip to ECP and £20 later i got a new pump and after much swearing we managed to get it fitted. Also flushed the system and filled with new OAT antifreeze.

 

I think I'm going to have to put it up for sale shortly though as I'm struggling for space and I'm just not using it, christ knows what it's worth though? The prices seem to be all over the place for Ti's.

 

I've also got the P6 back home from the inlaws tonight, i spotted a puddle of fluid under the front which seems to be coming from under the servo, so I'm guessing the brake master cylinder is leaking and it's running back and coming out the servo? More expense! I was thinking of selling it but driving it home this evening in the dusk reminded me what a lovely experience it is driving it and how "posh" it makes you feel! It really is a classy feeling car!

 

[purplebargeken]

Tesco petrol station. Minty mint ZX at the pump. White with brightly coloured special edition stickers. Dizzle flavour too. Bloke comes out, we have a quick chat and I discover he has 3 more at home, Winnah at life.

[alcyonecorporation]

Sports mode in VAJ gets rid of bodykitted Corsas (sorry, CORSA'S) on the A47 as well as Mk6 Fiesta STs. 

I have a timing belt kit and s/h exhaust for it now so I should stop blezzing round in it before it explodes. 

[MarvinsMom]

points & condensor? were metros not using electronic ign by 1989?

not on the 998.

 

the mg 1275's and the turbo were, BUT the smaller povvo spec A-series  ones stuck with points and a condenser to the end!

[Noel Tidybeard]

not on the 998.

 

the mg 1275's and the turbo were, BUT the smaller povvo spec A-series  ones stuck with points and a condenser to the end!

 

iirc its an easy conversion- bloke i used to work with put a metro electronic dizzy on his allegro with no worries

[Bobthebeard]

I have managed to 'burp' the Rover 75's coolant system I think!

The level now remains midway in the expansion tank after a journey.

No great deal generally, but good news to me!

Will try to 'burp' the MG similarly .

Edit...

The MG has had the burping done.. Results inconclusive as yet, but looking good. No belching of coolant after a hoon but level settled low afterwards. Will check in the morning when fully cool.

[blackboilersuit]

 

Yesterday I had a look at the front brakes on the CRV as there had been much grindage for the last week. Friction material falling off the backing plates because of corrosion. One pad had disappeared altogether hence the grinding. Two years old and fecked. I normally use good pads on cheap discs because cheap pads have a tendency to squeal. These were cheap pads because I listened to the parts man who said these ones were GR9 M8. Don't do cheap pads kids it's not worth it! 

 

To compound the misery both front calipers are damp as the pistons are leaking. Bad enough to need doing for the next MOT but not bad enough to be losing any significant amount of fluid so that job has been postponed until another day.

[fatharris]

Herbert was due an MOT but I'm out of the county for the week, so I've dropped it off with TwoSmoke to square it away on my behalf, two rear tyres as well should hopefully see a clean pass!

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[fatharris]

 

 

I think I'm going to have to put it up for sale shortly though as I'm struggling for space and I'm just not using it, christ knows what it's worth though? The prices seem to be all over the place for Ti's! It

I have no idea, but this would be an epic roffle, one for which many tickets would be bought (by me!)

 

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[stillOrange]

1 hour in and about Port Sunlight and I've already seen two Morris Minors and Triumph 2000...

[stuboy]

My sin moaning his rear shock on his mb bike was busted and demended a new one.. yeah right

[andy18s]

I do have to ask,why weld it?

Unless there's loads of play of play in the bolts holes you didn't need to do that...

[Mr_Bo11ox]

That will teach him for moaning!!!! 'I remember when bikes WERE bikes' etc

[ShiteRider]

Weighing van/shed in next week, forgot just how much rusty shit/scene taxable ford parts i have.

[Supernaut]

My sin moaning his rear shock on his mb bike was busted and demended a new one.. yeah right

Most likely an improvement, there.

 

A lot of full-sus bikes just sap power when pedalling as they bounce along. Now he'll be getting the power down properly.

[DodgeRover]

Metal fatigue happening soon?

[Mally]

Metal fatigue happening soon?

 

Not in the 2x1 new bit!

[SiC]

Refilled both front blinker fluids (indicator bulbs) on the Spaceship Civic today. One was blown and decided to do both as no-doubt the other was probably going to be at the end of its life soon too.

Took nearly 2 hours to do both...


Yes, you have to take the friggin wheel off and the arch liner to get to it.

Even then it wasn't easy to get to.
See if you can spot it...



Answer: (After disconnecting the loom and spending 10 minutes trying to find the mystery pop clip holding the filler tube in.)


Passenger side was a bit easier:


Absolutely ridiculous how much of a job it is to change a bulb. All moderns are shit, etc.

EDIT: Sorry, upside down/sideways photos as new phone. It appears that the Samsung S8 suffers the same disease as the iPhone camera.

[HMC]

^ Thats crazy re fitting the bulb, especially having to invert the whole car!

[egg]

What a palava.

 

Mondy 1 screw

Favorit 2 screws

Fusion 3 screws

 

How much do dealers charge for that spaceship job!

[SiC]

What a palava.

 

Mondy 1 screw

Favorit 2 screws

Fusion 3 screws

 

How much do dealers charge for that spaceship job!

0.7 hours each side according to Autodata. Going on £120 per hour (inc VAT), it'd be £92.40 each side! Plus then the cost of the bulb...

 

 

Just realised I can't find my Laguna II keycard and no idea where I had it last. Whats more, when I went out earlier with Mrs SiC, she had her card too. Being keyless start, I'm not sure who's card was active last. Crap-sticks

[For Fiats Sake]

I had a duff wing indicator bulb on a Yaris a few years back, the mechanic removed wheel, arch liner, and had hell of a job to reach the bulb holder.

 

When I found the owners manual months later I was interested* to read that the side indicator bulbs could be reached by pinching and pulling the plastic orange dome off.

 

Read the manual - they can be really quite useful at saving you £76 for fitting a fecking bulb!

[Lacquer Peel]

 

 

Weighing van/shed

Is that a phase 1 Berlingo/Partner? I could use some bits off it.

[SiC]

I had a duff wing indicator bulb on a Yaris a few years back, the mechanic removed wheel, arch liner, and had hell of a job to reach the bulb holder.

 

When I found the owners manual months later I was interested* to read that the side indicator bulbs could be reached by pinching and pulling the plastic orange dome off.

 

Read the manual - they can be really quite useful at saving you £76 for fitting a fecking bulb!

 

 

Ok I didn't have to remove the wheel, but I decided to as it looked like a bit of a fight for access between the wheel and the arch. Glad I did, as access wasn't plentiful once the wheel arch was off. Plus gave me a good chance to check for and crud/rust that might have been hidden under a potential rust trap.

 

Also 10 year old plastics might be a bit more brittle than when they wrote that manual. I managed to break a few of those push trim tab things as they were very brittle.

 

Could be worse, a lot of manufacturers now just say "We recommend you visit your local dealer" in their manuals!

[ShiteRider]

Is that a phase 1 Berlingo/Partner? I could use some bits off it.

Yeah it's an '02 ex-royal mail. What you after?

Should add it's a dw8, i've had it 3/4 years drove it to it's current spot and it's neither ran nor moved since.......and i'm in south lancashire.

[Lacquer Peel]

The side panelling inside the load bay if it's still there, front os indicator, driver's side window regulator, possibly more.

[Six-cylinder]

Bi-Turbo got an evening drive tonight even if the weather was a bit dull.

 

That car has amazing mid range punch.

[ShiteRider]

You mean the black plastic infill panels? Both sides? Front regulator and indicator i'll have to check on but should be okay (literally only used it as storage, never a vehicle.