Sold Stanky's Geep - fire sale

[Slartibartfast]

 

 

Use a bit of heat when doing so

Just not too much, eh?

[DeeJay]

 

That's a big mouse hole you've got there.

 

 

 

Hippopotamouse?

[Matt]

Bit of a win on local freecycle tonight, 2 sheets of 8' x 4' Aluminium di-bond sheet which is sort of two sheets of thin ally with a 'core' in between. The stuff they made a big fuss about in Grenfell tower? Yeah, that basically.

 

Its about 4mm thick and will become the new floor of the Geep, laid on top of the existing plywood. It used to be part of a 8' high sign for a local carpet warehouse, they re-branded and were getting rid, as they couldn't take it to either the tip, or the local metal merchant. It should be ideal for the floor as its light, strong and easy to cut to shape.

 

IMG_20180124_1907050881.jpg

 

That is a pretty great Freecycle win, nice!

[groovylee]

on the subject of your handbrake woes - not sure if you know this or not, so apologies if you do...

 

that 'tube' is indeed a solid bar.  the action of the cable actuating the lever on one side, also pushes the rod, which actuates the other side.  i think you already have this figured. t he bush, whilst desirable, shouldnt have too much bearing on the operation of the rod.  that rod will, however, get right in the way when you want to top up the diff oil lol

 

however, what you may not know is that those arms in the drums are ratcheted.  when you take the drum off, you need to reset them before you put it back together.  you can do this with a flat head screwdriver.  i'll see if i can find a how to.

 

Lee

[groovylee]

this isnt the best, but might help - http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/186631/handbrake-cable-adjustment-mk2

 

Lee

[Stanky]

Thanks! Yes thats exactly the setup I have (pic #1) - mine looks to be the opposite way around though, the cable from the handbrake lever goes to the right hand (drivers) side as you look at it from the back (whereas it goes to the passenger side in this photo) and then there should be some kind of actuator that mirrors the movement onto the other drum (that disappears off the right hand side of this photo).

 

this is the bit I can't figure out yet. I'm sure it'll become clear when I'm watching exactly what happens with it when someone operates the handbrake. It might be that the clamp thing (just to the right of the spring in the photo) has come off, or is corroded.

[Stanky]

Following the work on the Saab, I set to with a few jobs on the Geep. First up was to remove the old fuel line entirely and attach the new line with decent p-clips. Up to this point the new line was held on with cable ties to the old one.

 

The plastic ties were screwed to the chassis rails, so it was relatively easy to undo these one at a time, cut the cable ties and then put the p-clips around the new fuel hose and use the old screw to do them back up again. There are 5 in all, and they did eventually come off!

 

 

its a fiddly job, but I got there in the end. Old fuel line removed entirely and saved in case I need it for something else, or lawnmowers.

 

Next up was using my christmas present to cut the dibond sheet to make a new boot floor

 

 

I'd not used one of these before, I think the cutting disc was a bit too fat but I managed it in the end, making a section 41" long and 36" wide to go in the back of the Geep

 

 

I filed the edges down as it will need to come out again eventually I'm sure and I don't want to slice my fingers off doing so!

 

It needed a bit of fine-tuning with my tin snips to fit, but its in and working now. A seamless repair, I think you'll agree?

 

 

 

Its got a few holes already drilled in it, and I've not bonded it in yet, though i will eventually. For now the giant hole in the plywood is a useful access hatch for the fuel tank and handbrake mechanism so this will just sit on top of that. I'll also need to make up two sections for the front footwells but this will take a little bit longer, and I might invest in some thinner cutting discs for the disc cutter. Since all my fingers are still attached I count that as a successful first attempt.

[danthecapriman]

That stuff looks just the job for this. Much better and longer lasting than wood anyway!

How you going to attach it? Adhesive or you going to 'glass' it in like the old wood was.

[Stanky]

I'll bond it in with sikaflex or something around the edges where the glassfibre pokes out I think, though if anyone has any better ideas I'm all ears!

[danthecapriman]

Presumably this rotten bit of floor doesn't do anything important like holding the shell to the chassis?

If it's just a floor then it probably won't matter as long as it's strong and water proof.

[Stanky]

Presumably this rotten bit of floor doesn't do anything important like holding the shell to the chassis?

 

Erm, yes it does do that a bit too - I need to investigate further, but before then I'd just like to share two videos with the assembled multitude

 

 

 

COME ON!!!!!1!42M,D!?@!

 

Muthaflippa runs! It coughed a bit, caught then ran like a dream! I've connected up the fuel line from this morning which provides fuel in plentiful quantities (after a bit of a fright when I fired it up on the fuel can and it shot fuel everywhere from the unconnected fuel pipe) so we know the fuel pump is in perfect working order. As you can see, there was some condensation and muck in the exhaust pipe, which is now sprayed up the front wing of the Yaris, but after a couple of minutes this cleared and the exhaust blew clear, so I'm tenatatively optimisitic the head gasket is good. No other fluids pissed out visibly and the top and bottom hose got warm so it seems that the water pump also works.

 

I'm over the moon at this progress!

 

Next I had a look at the handbrake with my daughter helping - the passenger side wheel does work, just not as much as the drivers side, so I think it just needs adjusting up? You can hear the shoes rubbing the inside of the drum when you apply the handbrake, and it does slow it a bit, but not very much. I think I just need to pull the drum off and adjust it up so the shoes are closer to the drum in their normal position, so when the handbrake is applied they grip the drum better.

 

This is also excellent progress, so we have 100% engine functionality and I know what needs doing to sort the handbrake out, so i count that as 90% there too.

 

As it still wasn't raining I snipped the leftover bit of dibond to shape to make a cover for the front drivers footwell which was easy enough. I did manage to nip my beer gut in the tinsnips which smarts a bit but this couldn't take the shine off the day.

 

Next I need to sort out the coil wiring back to the key, as currently the only way to stop it is to suffocate the engine by putting your hand over the carb, this won't be an option when i fit the air filter that Mat_the_cat sent. Oh, while it was running I checked the voltage across the battery terminals - only 11.8v so the alternator is kippered I think. Looks easy enough to replace though. I might take it to that weird guy in a shed to see if he can revive it unless a cheap and working alternative presents itself.

 

Thanks for all the encouragement everyone, This is a brilliant day!

[stonedagain]

Does the charge light work when you turn the ignition on? If not,the alternator won't charge.

[500tops]

w00t!

[Stanky]

Does the charge light work when you turn the ignition on? If not,the alternator won't charge.

 

Nope, the only light that works is the oil one, the wiring is a bit 'creative' though!

[johngarty]

That sounds as sweet as a new motah! well done that man.

[stonedagain]

So the alternator might be ok, just the wiring needs sorting first.

[320touring]

YAAAASSSS! Excellent work!

[Slartibartfast]

Brilliant!

[danthecapriman]

Sweet! Sounds like that engines spot on, seems to run happily enough. Good old Fords!

 

If your alternator is screwed I might have a solution for you.

My Capri uses the same type by the looks of it. However, mine being a Pinto the alternators are mirror image of each other depending on the engine (left hand or right hand mountings).

I've got a known good used one for a Pinto in my shed as I've put a complete new one on my engine. If you need it you can have my old one and transfer the good guts of it into your Xflow casing. Up to you?

It's yours if you want to though.

[Stanky]

Ok so I now need to look at the wiring, as several have suggested it could be a simple case of the wiring being wrong or not present, buggering up the charging circuit. This is a job for next weekend. 

 

I hate electrics!

 

Thanks for the offer though Dan - I'll see if its a case of bad wiring first but if not I'll definitely take your one and swap the innards over like I did with the starter motor!

[Jim Bell]

Its alive. Elsewhere, 124 Ford Kas inexplicably die. The universe remains in ballance.

[dollywobbler]

Excellent!

 

Regarding brakes, the adjuster should be on the backplate, so you adjust it with the drum fitted. Otherwise, you won't be able to get the drum back on. Not sure what the set-up is on these, but your theory makes sense.

[richardmorris]

.

[junkyarddog]

Excellent progress,

There really is nothing like breathing life into a dormant old car!

[DeeJay]

Very smooth.

 

 

(Be carefull of your sleeves over the fan and belt.)

[Guest Hooli]

Hurrah! you can't beat an old xflow as a proper engine.

[doug]

Its the gloves that make the difference! :-D

[Stanky]

They bloody do! They are absolutely amazing, where did they come from originally if you don't mind me asking as I will destroy them eventually and will need some more?

[Exiled_Tat_Gatherer]

As said - and from long past memory.... adjusters are accesible via a spy hole at the rear...... a thin flat edged screw driver will help them spring out to push the shoes against the drums.... I think it was standard on the entire Ford based range for eons!

 

Fantastic sounding motor after having stood still for a while...... that's a proper result for you dude.

 

Brake adjustment and road test.......... light at the end of the tunnel. Well done - and best of luck with the electrics, I hate 'em too.

[bezzabsa]

whens the MOT then???? LOL