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My Xantia HDi - Minor Electrical Question!


Supernaut

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Cool beans. So it's not as fucked as I thought. :D

 

It even has the original dealership sticker from Preston in the rear window. I don't think it's ever moved very far in its life, now it's in Aberdeen!

 

I have the transistor pack for the blower motor on order and it should arrive tomorrow / Wednesday. I'll whack that in and see if it works. Appears to be a common problem on lots of PSA cars of this era, and the transistor pack fits a stupid amount of cars!

 

I now have a question about the brakes. The fronts seem to squeak a little bit (so I think I'll look into replacing the pads). Do I just take the cap off the LHM reservoir and push the pistons back, like you would on any other car? Well, except for it being LHM instead of brake fluid.

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There are 2 different management systems on these, Bosch and Siemens.

 

Bosch is easily and cheaply mapped, Siemens is an arse requiring bench flashing, and not many people can do it.

 

Have a look at your injectors, probably easiest place to see and should be labelled as either Bosch or Siemens.

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On my XM, if I was in LOW, and went to Hi the pump couldn't lift the weight of the car at idle, the STOP light would come on. A quick increase of the idle helped it along and up it rose. Moving from Normal to Intermediate (to negotiate small floods usually) was unnoticable whilst driving.

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There are 2 different management systems on these, Bosch and Siemens.

 

Bosch is easily and cheaply mapped, Siemens is an arse requiring bench flashing, and not many people can do it.

 

Have a look at your injectors, probably easiest place to see and should be labelled as either Bosch or Siemens.

 

Yeeees, I was aware of this from my 306 HDi I had a couple of years back. It luckily had a Bosch ECU and it was a 2001 Y. With this being a W reg I like to hope it'll be the same / similar, but you never know.

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I love it when other people seek advice for stuff that I'm worried about.  Saves me getting flamed by certain members for stupidity!

Yeah my TD SX exhibits all of these suspension idiosyncrasies and is totally fine*.

Suspension possibly starting to get a bit harder, but am ignoring that right now because money.

Could you ask some people about non-fucntioning aircon too please?

That'll save me some grief too...

;)

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My plans so far are:

 

- fix blower motor

 

Likely the resistor pack and these are a cheap fix - though usually when they fail they fail on full chat - so you have blowers that are either ON of off.

- fix airbag light...?

 

Its either one of two things - the passenger airbag has been switched off ( key switch side of dashboard near on door pillar) or the under seat connectors - usually under seat connectors - as has been mentioned - hard wire them, or try contact cleaner first.

 

- clean out the interior and fit a seat cover to the driver's seat

 

Find another seat - they are easy to come by these days.

- potentially remap it

 

Yours is the 90BHP donkey and in stock form is very reliable - they can be tweaked to about 120BHP but the clutch doesnt like it at all - (ask me how I know) - standard "boost the fuel" tuning boxes are good for another 10 ponies and cost £50-ish and the clutch will take that OK,  whereas a remap will be between £80 and £160 depending on whether you DIY or take it somewhere. Dont get too power hungry is all I will say.

- drive it

 

Enjoy it too.

- try to ignore that I paid FAR TOO FUCKING MUCH for it

 

Its a Citroen - it will bleed your wallet dry. That said they are lovely cars. I love HP sprung Cits.

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Dutton Forshaw!

Thats where my last three came from, including the current C8.

Barkers seem to have the monopoly on dealer stickers though as they made them of some stuff that wouldn't peel off in one piece, so many people left them.

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I now have a question about the brakes. The fronts seem to squeak a little bit (so I think I'll look into replacing the pads). Do I just take the cap off the LHM reservoir and push the pistons back, like you would on any other car? Well, except for it being LHM instead of brake fluid.

 

 

With a gallon or so of brake fluid in the reservoir, taking the top off isn't necessary. 

 

But why shove the hard-worked, probably dirty fluid in the caliper cylinders back up the pipework and through the ABS valving? Open the bleed nipple and expel it as the pistons are pushed back. Do a quick bleed to make sure there's no air, and to fill with cleaner LHM.

 

This goes for any car, btw - and it means that when you need to bleed the brakes for any other reason, the nipples aren't locked solid.

 

Xantia rear calipers can squeal as corrosion of the alloy (against the steel carrier) forces them to an angle against the hub. Remove the two big bolts holding the caliper to the carrier, clean off the oxidation and coat with a bit of copper grease to help.

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Yeeees, I was aware of this from my 306 HDi I had a couple of years back. It luckily had a Bosch ECU and it was a 2001 Y. With this being a W reg I like to hope it'll be the same / similar, but you never know.

Afraid I think it's totally random what was fitted BECAUSE FRENCH.

 

All my research told me my Berlingo should be Bosch, got it home and checked, NuPrince of Darkness.

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I love it when other people seek advice for stuff that I'm worried about.  Saves me getting flamed by certain members for stupidity!

Yeah my TD SX exhibits all of these suspension idiosyncrasies and is totally fine*.

Suspension possibly starting to get a bit harder, but am ignoring that right now because money.

Could you ask some people about non-fucntioning aircon too please?

That'll save me some grief too...

;)

 

Nope, aircon works fine on mine. It's just the blower that's inoperative.

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So I just took it for a short drive, had some errands to run.

 

Just whacking the lever into the position I want and waiting while tickling the throttle so it's just above idle works a treat!

 

I had a look for the ECU and couldn't find anything, maybe it's under the scuttle panel? I found this on the scuttle panel:

post-19977-0-84689000-1464024400_thumb.jpg

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For extra amusement, I'll list the contents of the boot:

 

- Five wheel trims (I took four off, and was provided with a spare)

- A driver's window regulator

- Two spare door speakers

- An entire passenger door mirror assembly

- Two mirror caps. One in the right colour but cracked, and one in good condition but green.

- A driver's side mirror glass

- Various ratchet straps

- A heavy-duty screw-in towing eye

- A car cover (REALLY?!)

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So I just took it for a short drive, had some errands to run.

 

Just whacking the lever into the position I want and waiting while tickling the throttle so it's just above idle works a treat!

 

I had a look for the ECU and couldn't find anything, maybe it's under the scuttle panel? I found this on the scuttle panel:

I think that part number is for the wiper linkage

 

Just whip the engine cover off and have a look at the injectors, I'm sure mine have the siemens logo on them, Bosch ones probably do too.

 

If not they'll have a part number.

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Brake bleeding is easy on these, as the brake pedal just activates the pump. So wedge the pedal down/sit the missus down, then work round and crack each nipped off and let it flow, then when the stop light comes on top the lhm up and continue.

 

On the xm though, the nipples on the rear are behind the wheel, so the wheels have to come off. Fronts were getable with the wheels on full lock. I presume the xantia is the same.

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I think that part number is for the wiper linkage

 

Just whip the engine cover off and have a look at the injectors, I'm sure mine have the siemens logo on them, Bosch ones probably do too.

 

If not they'll have a part number.

I tried that (and left the engine cover off because the little things that hold it on are buggered anyway) and couldn't see any logos on the injectors...

 

I shall try again.

 

In the meantime I have spent the princely sum of £40 on pagid brake pads all round, an air filter and an oil filter. I'll get oil locally once these parts arrive.

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Today I fitted a stupidly long aerial I had left over from a 306.

 

I also flashed a stage 1 remap on it. It's not AAARGH FAST but it's much nicer to drive, especially blipping the throttle in 3rd at about 25mph and feeling the back end squat. The suspension is just amazing on these. It does both handling and ridiculous waft. :D

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Ignore this post (or don't, your choice). I'm just updating my to-do list.

- fix blower motor - DONE
- fix airbag light - DONE
- clean out the interior and fit a seat cover to the driver's seat
- potentially remap it - DONE
 

So now I'm thinking of trying some fabric adhesive to patch up the driver's seat bolster with the fabric offcut I got from the PO. It's the correct, matching material so if I don't fuck it up too badly it should look ok.

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Did the pads on LeWaftBarge and I seem to recall the front caliper had threaded pistons. Could be wrong though.

 

Don't forget the handbrake operates the front calipers though, that being said, the handbrake cable is easy to disconnect at the caliper end.

 

The times for the height change sound all good too, so aside from looking like it's been a Basra taxi, I think you've done all right!

 

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

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Yes, the pistons will need winding back in. Single pot calipers I think, same as XM and BX. You need to apply pressure as you wind, which is a bit of a faff, but can be done - easy if you can find a socket that'll grip the middle part of the piston, because then you can push and turn much more easily. Other, fiddly option is a screwdriver across the flats, but you don't get much turn per 'go' that way.

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Ha! Joke's on you. I have a fancy-ass caliper wind-back kit I got from ebay. It's got magnetic heads with different fittings for different manufacturers and two 'handle' parts. One normal threaded and one reverse threaded.

 

The handles use a plate that sits against the other side of the caliper (opposite the piston) to provide pressure as you turn it against this plate. It's one of these.

 

However, suggestions on a source for LHM fluid would be nice, if I'm bleeding the calipers I'll need to top it up a little bit.

 

I'm still not familiar with the correct jacking procedure for an LHM car either. Whack the suspension to full height then put axle stands underneath and lower it until it lands on them?

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Well that's a bit posh. I just used a knackered 3/4" socket with a split in it...

 

I think most decent motor factors should stock LHM. Halfords have been having a bit of a sell-off having had their shelves clagged up with the stuff for too long. It doesn't really go off, which is nice. You could head to commaoil.com as they should be able to direct you to a stockist.

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Well that's a bit posh. I just used a knackered 3/4" socket with a split in it...

 

I think most decent motor factors should stock LHM. Halfords have been having a bit of a sell-off having had their shelves clagged up with the stuff for too long. It doesn't really go off, which is nice. You could head to commaoil.com as they should be able to direct you to a stockist.

 

Had a look there and it says all my local motor factors and Halfords stock it. Win!

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However, suggestions on a source for LHM fluid would be nice, if I'm bleeding the calipers I'll need to top it up a little bit.

 

 

I got mine from GSF via eBay (cheaper than getting it off their own site). It's the proper Total stuff and came out under £7/litre bottle delivered.

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I have a caliper rewind set, it's fupping excellent, it's had a fair bit of use! Was only a tenner or so from ebay too. I use it sometimes even if the caliper doesn't need to be wound.

 

I got my LHM from ebay, £40 for 6x500ml bottles, but I did do a full change after hydraflush. Still go 1/2 a bottle left, it's handy stuff in general, I use it to lubricate vacuum cleaner bearings sometimes as it clings less than grease.

 

Your jacking procedure is what I used to do, only twice did I jack it up on 'normal', then when removing the stands afterwards it lowered right down and swallowed my jack, had to fire the car up and put it on high, it didn't like that much...

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I'm thinking of just getting a litre of LHM for now, should be enough.

 

I'll pop round Halfords this evening and get some oil and a sump plug washer too. I've got all the filters and brake pads on order from carparts4less (ECP under a different name) due to arrive today.

 

Can I do the jacking technique with the suspension on just one corner too? The offside rear tyre was an advisory in the MOT for low tread, and the spare has loads of tread in comparison, so I'll swap them over.

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Not sure if you can, I wasn't brave enough to try it but can't see why it should be a bother.

Like the caliper rewind tool too, I used an old pair of needle nosed pliers and it took forever.

Better than the screwdriver method though, that really is laborious.

The ride and handling on these is mega :D

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