project 1979 Triumph Spitfire!

[Noel Tidybeard]

On 25/05/2024 at 19:07, SiC said:

 

that's a handsome old hector there!

oh the spitfie is quite nice too!🤣

[SiC]

Weathers nice isn't it! About time. Also about time I gave my Spitty a drive considering I've only done about 20 miles in it this year so far.

@motorpunk should recognise this. His pictures are much better.

There is a little sign to say please respect that it's a private site. Maybe motorpunks book has made it a popular location? 😄

 

@PhilA will recognise this location.

 

Final snap of a good ol' pre-warboys road sign.

 

Fantastic fun. Even if there is a lot of strange disconcerting noises when driving. Probably driving the moderns far too much. I really should use it more. 

Also given me the spark to finish welding the Midget once the weather cools a bit. Plus made me fancy something else (I really want a 1100 but would settle for a similar aged porridge British saloon)

 

[artdjones]

On 26/05/2024 at 13:37, SiC said:

Front end I pumped grease into the kingpins

Always EP90 oil on the front uprights. Grease doesn't flow enough.

[somewhatfoolish]

Grade 00 grease is probably a reasonable compromise if they're a bit worn or the welch plugs leak.

[SiC]

HELLO YOU FILTHY BUGGER

My poor old Spitty has been sat here getting a absolutely covered in filler and grinding dust while I attack my Midget. With the weather decidedly sunny today and having a day off after our holiday, I decided to give it a quick wash to get all that grime off. 

Gave her a quick snow jizz over.

Then pressure washer rinse (you won't believe the hate this gets on FB grouos when you use a pressure washer on old cars) and sponge wash. 

Discovered a split in the soft top roof. Also one on the other side, albeit smaller. This is annoying as the top isn't that old. Either shite modern aftermarket parts or maybe because I'm crap at folding the roof properly. Could be either or both!

I'm not that bothered as tbh the hood is absolutely awful at keeping rain out and the rest of the car leaks water in worse than a sieve. Just something people will gripe about if I come to sell this. 

Which tbh I have considered. Once the Midget is done then I'll definitely be letting it go. The Midget is stiffer, I prefer the A-Series and no point owning two very similar classic convertibles. One won't get used and that'll likely be the Spitfire given the Midget will be a new toy by then.

Also I'm really keen on something pre-war and seriously thinking of a Austin 7 or 8. While I have room outside, it'll much prefer to live in a garage.

Tbh I think if I see a good value and good condition one in a few months, I'll bite without selling this anyway and the Austin can live on my drive for a bit over Summer/Autumn. Key thing is that the bodywork is decent as I'm not doing another big resto!

Anyhow after cleaning it I decided to dry the brakes off. 

Ran a bit crap up and down our cul-de-sac which I thought it might because of old fuel. Not completely happy I had another quick once over everything major. Oil fine, coolant fine, dashpots full, linkage moved smoothly and plug wires attached properly.

Popping the dizzy cap however found this.

The insert had fallen out of the cap. Weird but at least it ran. I think I'll order a replacement cap as I'd rather it not did it again somewhere inconvenient for it to happen.

With her warmed up and running smoothly, I went out for a quick jaunt. Except I got carried away and did like 20 miles. She's running fantastic! Unlike my BGT which, always being a temperamental mistress, usually gave me some sort of grief if it was sat around doing nothing for any reasonably long length of time. My wife did point out the other day that I haven't actually really bought many parts for this and it's been one of the cheapest classics I've ran for maintenance.

Took a few photos at my favourite photo locations.

Then put her away with some old sheets over this time to stop so much crud getting on the bodywork!

While parking in the garage, it occurred to me that this bit in our front garden might be big enough to fit an Austin 7 and make it a feature... 🤔

[N Dentressangle]

Pretty car! I think I did most of the snagging for you, so it should be fine 😉. Don't remember replacing the dizzy cap.

Liking the Austin 7 plans.

[SiC]

2 hours ago, N Dentressangle said:

Don't remember replacing the dizzy cap.

The original dizzy iirc was an Accuspark unit that was fitted before your ownership. I don't trust Accuspark distributors from bad experience on my BGT with them where they wear badly and the timing goes way out. So I bought a correct '79 vintage original Lucas 45D unit off eBay.

As I had to wait for both that and a Distributor Doctor condenser to arrive, I put in a spare 123ignition unit I had on the shelf. It was a second hand unit I bought a while ago as an impulse off eBay and hadn't found a use for it. I selected an ignition curve that was reasonably close to the original Lucas unit but wasn't that precisely correct. However as it started and ran so well, I didn't bother changing it. 

So the cap on it isn't a Lucas style unit but a Behr VK105 which is a Bosch style cap and rotor. I have actually just remembered that the second hand 123Ignition unit came with that cap but it was missing the centre electrode. So I nicked one off an old 25D cap and made it fit as a short term measure to make it usable. Most likely why it came apart 🙃

It reminded me actually that I had issues with the car stumbling when hard cornering for a brief second. I now reckon it might be that centre electrode moving about on hard sideward forces...

New Beru cap isn't mega bucks - like £20. So I'll get a pair ordered and I think I might get a spare rotor arm for the collection too. 

[purplebargeken]

Did you say something about not doing another big resto? Heh heh heh…..

[SiC]

18 hours ago, purplebargeken said:

Did you say something about not doing another big resto? Heh heh heh…..

I still have the Dolomite to do! I know you said I should get rid but I'm too much of a stubborn bugger to ... especially after 5 years of ownership. 

[SiC]

18 hours ago, SiC said:

I have actually just remembered that the second hand 123Ignition unit came with that cap but it was missing the centre electrode. So I nicked one off an old 25D cap and made it fit as a short term measure to make it usable. Most likely why it came apart 🙃

Checking my parts stash, I appear to have already thought of this and have bought a spare cap.

While I wouldn't normally trust a brand like Lemark, the cap does appear to have a Made in Italy label inside. So not some rubbish Chinese/Indian aftermarket crap that often floats around. There can't be too many factories in Italy turning this stuff out and I seem to remember my Beru cap is made in Italy too?

I also found a new style 123ignition cap for that later dizzy but won't fit this older style. There is a tang on the older style which isn't on the newer style. Newer units take the old and new cap, while the old only takes the old. Presumably because the old style cap is harder or more expensive to source maybe. Old style cap is Beru VK105/VK1051 (only difference I can tell on the former is that it's black) and new style cap is a Beru VK106. The VK105 is OEM for the Porsche 356 and some of the Ford Capri lumps. Presumably 123 chose that cap as the design to use as there is likely always some rich bugger wanting a cap for a 356 and wanting one of good quality?

I'll pop the cap on later so I don't forget again!

[purplebargeken]

If you sold the Dolly, you could get that little Austin 😉😊😊

[SiC]

21 hours ago, purplebargeken said:

If you sold the Dolly, you could get that little Austin 😉😊😊

I've already figured that I could possibly fit it on the grass bit of my drive. Mrs SiC wasn't even totally against the idea as it would make a nice garden ornament 🤣

[SiC]

Absolutely ❤️ this car at the moment. 

Mostly running around locally and enjoying the ace weather. Often gets plenty of happy onlookers and pleasant comments. Always stands out in the carpark wherever I go.

I just need to get the garage sorted so it doesn't have to live outside. That said, as it lives outside, it's makes it no hassle to just jump in and go. Apart from putting the tent/roof down. While warm during the day, I'm ignoring the sub-zero weather overnight that inevitably means that even during the day I'm driving over salted roads.

I do need a classic that I can jump in and go with but leave outside in the summer without worrying too much about it getting wet. Something with a solid roof. While I don't mind leaving this outside, it has zero capability of keeping even a light rain shower out - the roof has hand size gaps 😆 So it really needs to go back inside once this nice weather inevitably subsides.

[SiC]

Local classic car meet this morning. What better time to take the Spitty down there. 

Started her up and put the roof down while she was warming up

 

Oh FFS. 

Jumped into a back up car.

I'll upload the meet pics later.

[juular]

1 hour ago, SiC said:

Local classic car meet this morning. What better time to take the Spitty down there. 

Started her up and put the roof down while she was warming up

 

Oh FFS. 

Jumped into a back up car.

I'll upload the meet pics later.

Friction plate rusted itself onto the flywheel maybe?

Although, you have been using it so maybe not.

[SiC]

2 minutes ago, juular said:

Friction plate rusted itself onto the flywheel maybe?

Although, you have been using it so maybe not.

Maybe. But I last used it on Wednesday and it was fine. It's been sat outside all week as I need to finish tidying Midget parts away to fit it back in. Even got rained on Thursday evening (it wasn't supposed to rain!). 

It's just probably protesting that it's been left outside. 

I'm hoping it's just the clutch hydraulics. However the master doesn't look very old at all. 

Clutch slave means the hassle of pulling loads of the I interior out to get to the transmission tunnel again. If I'm doing this, I'll probably send my Speedo off for a clean and recalibration as it's easier to get it all back together if I have access to both ends of the Speedo cable. 

All this will likely mean a few weeks of downtime. Just as the weather is getting nicer!

At least it chose to do it on the drive and not out somewhere. 

Might have a go at pumping on the pedal and see if I get some clutch back. 

[juular]

Aftermarket slaves going pop on these are known to be A Thing ™, but hopefully not!

Access was ok for doing this on the Toledo from underneath without removing the interior. Just needed a combination of about 182 extensions for my 1/4 ratchet to get the bolts out, but still eminently doable.

[SiC]

Just now, juular said:

Aftermarket slaves going pop on these are known to be A Thing ™, but hopefully not!

Access was ok for doing this on the Toledo from underneath without removing the interior. Just needed a combination of about 182 extensions for my 1/4 ratchet to get the bolts out, but still eminently doable.

I think the chassis is in the way on the Spitfire. 😕

Tbh when I think about it, I have noticed it quite hard to engage gears at times. 1st to 2nd if rushed will crunch. I just put it down to old worn gearbox but maybe it's been slowly failing.  Reverse is especially hard but then I've got my foot on the clutch for longer, which will be loosing pressure the longer I hold it. 

[SiC]

No fluid in the clutch master. That'll do it. 

Tbh probably the best scenario as I don't fancy pulling an engine to replace a clutch or dropping a sump to replace thrust washers. 

Topped up and a few pumps has got the clutch back. I think I'll be ordering a new clutch master/slave and maybe even the pipe for good luck.

 

[captain_70s]

My Dolly used to "use" a bit of clutch juice. Namely depositing it into the driver's footwell. If I topped it up every other week it'd be fine. If it ran out the bleeding process was a major pain.

Eventually I got around to sticking new seals in the master.

[SiC]

Looking under the boot of the master, it's all wet and suggests that it's leaking. 

The clevis hole on the pedal is heavily worn and huge too. I'll be taking the pedal out to weld up and re-drill this while I'm at it.

For those that aren't sure what they are looking at on the above, this is the brake master for comparison. Notice how the shaft is dry and clean. Likewise the hole for the pedal is round - not oval.

I think I'll chuck in both a master and slave. I don't really want to be doing this job again if I can help it. Both aren't crazy expensive - under £60 delivered. 

[SiC]

14 minutes ago, captain_70s said:

My Dolly used to "use" a bit of clutch juice. Namely depositing it into the driver's footwell. If I topped it up every other week it'd be fine. If it ran out the bleeding process was a major pain.

Eventually I got around to sticking new seals in the master.

Tbh the feel of the pedal is pretty good now I've filled it up and pumped it. Probably last for a good while yet like this but I CBA with the hassle if it goes again. Shit like this can knock Mrs SiC confidence in the car if it fails when out and about. I'd prefer her having confidence in it still as it means I can use it more. 

Plus I'm not intending to own this car forever (it's going once the Midget is done*) and I'm sure the next owner would prefer if it was okay.

[captain_70s]

Given the seal kit was something like £12 and the hardest bit was disconnecting the pedal I should have done it long before I did!

[SiC]

I've been mostly tidying the garage today so I can get back on with my Midget and getting the Spitfire put back in under cover. However with the Spitfire out of action and nice weather finally upon us, I wanted to crack on getting it fixed as a priority.

First off was removing the transmission tunnel. While this gives good access to the gearbox, it's a right plava. Especially removing the stupid h frame thing in the middle.

After a lot of fighting, it was out. I know it's going to be even more swearing trying to get it back in and aligned.

The cover itself is then just held in with a bunch of screws.

At this point I realised that I didn't actually need to remove the cover as there is a bit of access to the slave underneath. 🫠

However it's tight for access and tbh given the state of the lines, fittings and everything else, the extra access makes the job a whole lot easier.

I sucked all the old fluid out. Given I put fresh in the master recently, this is pretty skany. Tbh it's more evidence that the rubber seals are breaking up. 

If you look closely under the slave, you can see the paint bubbling from brake fluid sitting on it. 

Removing the slave, it was clear that it was leaking too with the inside full of fluid on the wrong side. Also the boot is completely perished. 

Next problem was splitting the two halves. 

I chose violence (hammer and a vice) and the two split apart with a bit of a fight.

Also gave the gearbox fitting a quick whizz over with the wire wheel to remove the crud. 

Note the slave is marked Girling. So possibly original to the car.

I honestly think BMC based vehicles are much better engineered than Triumph. Stuff like this pivot pin isn't replaceable without splitting the engine/gearbox. It would have been handy to replace as there is a fair bit of wear and slack in it. 

With the leaking master, slave and worn pivot points, I'm surprised it even changed gear as well as it did. Also glad I am replacing the slave as well as the master given the leakage. 

Then pulled the master. 

Hard line was tricky to remove as the brake fitting head was mullered. A pair of mole grips got it freed off and then the brake spanner did the rest. I think I'll replace this hard line as not sure if it's going to be a pain trying to do up those knackered fittings.

Then unbolted the clutch master. Note the "REA" markings. I've only seen these on aftermarket masters, suggesting it's not original nor a high quality unit.

This really could do with giving a quick wire brush over and paint really. I'll also be removing the pedal so I can properly fix up the pivot point this side. 

Then called it a night for now. Hopefully by mid week I'll have received the replacement master and slave. In the meantime, I'll hopefully get some time to sort that pivot point and a bit of a clean+paint on the master area. 

Ideally I'd like it all back together and ready to go for next weekend. 🤞

Also need to find out how quickly I can get the Speedo fixed. Now would be a great time to finally sort it - not least that if I need to fiddle with the Speedo cable on the gearbox side, I currently have access to it. 

Biggest fight will be putting that h frame thing back in. 

[Matty]

I'd say the Spit is borderline easier to work on than the Austin as its a bit more "kit". Fuck sight easier to put stands under as well what with being separate chassis.

[N Dentressangle]

Nice work. I don't remember touching the clutch hydraulics, and that slave cylinder has deffo been a brake part for too long.

The H frame is indeed a total arse to refit. This is probably why there was none fitted when I got the car. However, it's important for maximising what structural integrity the shell has, and cutting down on scuttle shake as it's bolted directly into the chassis. There's also an important cross bar to the steering column from it, without which the column is a bit, er, mobile. I have no great tips on re-fitting, unfortunately - it was an arse of a job.

At least the weather's turned a bit crap this week so you won't miss it too much.

btw, I agree about Triumph's engineering, especially compared with something like the P6. It's easy to forget, Triumph was a poor, relatively small company. There were few resources for R&D compared with the bigger players. Leyland rescued them in 1961 and bailed them out, and everything they designed around that time was full of cost-driven compromises and cheapened as far as it could be. Rover had the cash generated by successful car sales and the profitable Land Rover. BMC was a much bigger firm, also with some profitable models and a big R&D team. In retrospect, Triumph should probably have been shut down in the late 60s as production in the new BL was rationalised.

[SiC]

4 hours ago, Matty said:

I'd say the Spit is borderline easier to work on than the Austin as its a bit more "kit". Fuck sight easier to put stands under as well what with being separate chassis.

In the engine bay on the spitfire everything is accessible but anything further back is an absolute 'mare. Dash is a muddle of wires and cables, transmission tunnel comes off but a pain to do, rear axle needs special pullers to remove hubs (generic bend them), chassis is in the way of most stuff underneath and it all feels cobbled together with scant regard to being easy to work on.

For example plug 1 is notoriously awkward to remove as the alternator is in the way. Maybe easier when the engine was designed with a dynamo but surely they could have shaped the alternator bracket a smidge better so it can at least pull out. Even checking/filling transmission fluid levels really requires the tunnel cover off or bending your wrist at angles under the car - Midget/MGB have a handy removable cover inside the car. There are loads of bits like that which make it a general PIA. 

Where as every Austin, Morris and MG product has most stuff reasonably decent to get to with one or two exceptions. E.g. moggie the brake master is a pain but the engine bay is readily accessible and anything on the rear axle/brakes is a doddle. 1100/1300 removing the rear displacers is a pain but everything in the engine bay is within a hands reach. MGB dizzy is a pain but front suspension is super easy, clutch hydraulics pretty basic to get to and electrically most things are in the driver's side corner of the engine bay. Midget is a surprisingly complicated shell especially in the engine bay - Healey knew how to make stuff well built. Clutch slave is supposed to be horrendous (but I didn't find it bad at all...) but everything else is so easily accessible. 

Dolomite sprint engine is ridiculous - long cam chains, top mounted water pumps needing shims to function properly, dizzys under manifolds, coolant pipes zig zag all over, etc. Body is full of rust traps that they didn't even bother painting in the factory and minimum metal used so they are a bit flimsy. Dash is an assortment of hidden fixings. Under dash shelf is a flimsy cardboard/wood affair that falls apart quickly - much like the Spitfire glovebox shelf. Dash top splits and likewise the veneer comes off the wood panels readily at this age. 

Etcetera etcetera.

 

Its a fun car but I do wonder if some of the Triumph engineers couldn't be arsed. In many ways like BMW really. They spend a lot of development budget in the drivetrain and then figure out how to bolt the rest together and make a car from that. 

[Matty]

I've had that trans tunnel out twice now. I feel your pain 🤣

[SiC]

Well it's nearly a month later 🤦‍♂️

In that time, when I've had time, I have been getting bits done when I've had time. 

The pedal clevis hole was severely elongated and probably would be long before it broke off entirely.

So I welded that up and redrilled.

Also stripped the pedal assembly apart and repainted. The centre pin for the pedal sits in a brass bush. However that pin was seized with it and took a fight to separate. Once apart, cleaned up with some fine sand paper and then lubed on assembly.

Once apart I stripped all the paint off and repainted with Lidls finest black enamel metal paint.

Also took the time to clean up and paint the scuttle area too. 

I didn't remove the brake master but tried to paint around it.

Certainly better than how it was.

The clutch pipe wasn't in too bad shape however the fittings were knackered from someone using the wrong type of spanner and rounding them. So just replaced the lot.

Bleeding was pretty straightforward with the tunnel off. Both access to the pedal and bleed nipple from the driver seat. Just needed to keep checking that I hadn't emptied the reservoir.

Then put it all back together again. Looks simple but took a good 2 hours of fighting with brackets and bolts.

 

That was the other day. Today I went for a drive. A quick test run had the throttle stick at max. Not ideal in a cul-de-sac and when dipping the clutch so I didn't end up through a neighbours front window, had it revving the tits off till it valve bounced and I could switch the engine off. Couldn't see how it was getting stuck but played around with the cable routing a bit to keep it straight. Hasn't done it since.

Revving a Triumph SC 1500 to the red line is not great at the best of times with it's wobbly crank and stuff. But racing one with no load is even worse. Oh well. It still runs okay!

This evening I went out for a little jolly as a prolonged test drive. Came back and went out again with Mrs SiC as she fancied a ride out. I just need to get her in the drivers seat and confidence in driving these old sheds. Maybe she might even enjoy it! (Probably won't...)

Then put it back to bed. Needs a good wash next to remove all the sand marks from the rain we had the other day. CBA to wash cars but needs must.

 

I still love this old donk. Literally in a month's time I will have owned it for 2 years (!)

Maybe it might be time soon for me to sell it on to try something else... I was quite tempted with a £10k frogeye that was local. That would be enough to make me want to sell it to change to something like that. 

 

[N Dentressangle]

Looking good.

Completely feel your pain about fitting that H piece. A really stupid bit of design. When I got the car it didn't have one fitted, and getting it in the first time was a real struggle.

btw, I've found a primer coat of brush-on red oxide (the cheapo Screwfix kind) makes a nice job of levelling out rough surfaces like the scuttle you've repainted. You can spray over the top and the finish is much smoother.