Jump to content

F**ked Black Rover 827 SLi - The Mistake Machine


St.Jude

Recommended Posts

Thank you for the warm welcome and thanks to everyone who liked my post. Good to see there’s still other folk as well that like the 800. If I lived in the UK I’d be glad to pop over and help sort the electrics, but I’m across the channel (Netherlands), so a bit difficult. Hence I try and help online where I can, time permitting.

And yes, I’m the same one with same username. Keeps things simple :) 

I’ll try to follow the thread and if there’s anything you need, don’t hesitate to ask. My responses won’t be very quick usually as I’ve got a busy job. Takes a lot of care to keep driving an 827 daily (as I do), hence my understanding regarding your earlier point in throwing this project aside ;)  Still hoping you can find the time to patch it up at least and sell it on to another owner that cherishes this car as well (or maybe complete the project, who knows).

I know you can get it working again 👍

PS: responses might be delayed due to I’m new and mods need to approve posts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Not had half the opportunity to do anything like I thought I would today as my mom had a list of pressing issues. I didn’t have the jump leads with me though, forgot those.

I threw the battery back on it as I thought maybe a wiggle of the gear stick would result in life. It didn’t.

But…

IMG_5518.jpeg.718cadf5b1136e06a34d67fac598c467.jpeg

The light for saying what gear it’s in is temperamental. I had put it in park but there was no light. Wiggled it and the light came on, then off etc. I think I am going to take this out and clean it properly.

I did also hear a click from the engine bay. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, N Dentressangle said:

Interesting. Knackered XYZ switches are a thing, after all, so you maybe onto something. Keep going 🙂

Yeah, just not helpful that it seems the car is inbetween years. Like I said above the car falls under a specific year, but the manual doesn’t include it. 

21 minutes ago, Matty said:

Easy for me to say as it's not my car thus not my nightmare but it will be something and nothing. Just something that's a bastard to find. As said above, keep going!!

I knew the moment my mom started rambling I thought I’m not going to get anything done on this. And while I did nothing, and actually it was fairly futile, if I didn’t do it it’d have been another day where I’ve just walked past it and not tickled it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, St.Jude said:

Yeah, just not helpful that it seems the car is inbetween years. Like I said above the car falls under a specific year, but the manual doesn’t include it. 

I knew the moment my mom started rambling I thought I’m not going to get anything done on this. And while I did nothing, and actually it was fairly futile, if I didn’t do it it’d have been another day where I’ve just walked past it and not tickled it.

Little bits though, with something like this. Every new idea and 5 min spent is a bit closer to a solution, even if it doesn't feel like it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Give it a clean, get some 'as good as you can' pictures, and get it advertised on various Rover forums / pages.

If I had room, I'd be sending you a very insulting offer.

(Apologies if you've already advertised elsewhere)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, HMC said:

Is this still available? (sorry havent read the last 2 pages)

 

58 minutes ago, Minimad5 said:

Give it a clean, get some 'as good as you can' pictures, and get it advertised on various Rover forums / pages.

If I had room, I'd be sending you a very insulting offer.

(Apologies if you've already advertised elsewhere)

TL:DR; - It is, but not quite either.

With setting up the Lada I thought it would be beneficial to me to at least try and plan what I need to do and what I can do with it, along with trying to plan ahead for any parts I would need to buy. From that, and looking at the calendar, there will be weekends where I can't work on the Lada as I'll be waiting for something to move on. I then have this car in my head and the help shown here to get it running. So I want to get this working, and at least get it to an MOT. With the plans I have for the Lada I could do with an investment, and I think I could do with that investment coming from the Rover.

But then I just need one bad day and I'm on Car Take Back again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Had an hour to look at this today. 

Thanks to @Marina door handles I had a better idea (and head) to get the the centre console out. 

IMG_5723.jpeg.eb1a010264610f4827cecac82fc86ff2.jpeg

All of this shit had to come out to get this far.

IMG_5724.jpeg.97872c5e1259dcfe2815ceaa5a0594f5.jpeg

Yeah I broke some veneer, it’s wood. It’ll be easy to fix.

I couldn’t really get to the bit I was looking for as the Haynes BOL says you need to go under it etc and I’ve no Jack or stands here so I can’t take that out.

I did ask my sister though to start it, as I could hear clicking. There is clicking from the engine bay, I think it’s the ABS pump being primed.

Forgot though I bought crocodile clips for my multimeter, so I hooked it up. 

IMG_5726.jpeg.14539c70236bd515b72c183b4307ef06.jpeg

IMG_5727.jpeg.79dd9a209a39e52a8cc748829e6ab5ab.jpeg

Zero volts at every point. So there is no power going to the starter.

Should also say that when I put it in reverse the reverse lights come on aswell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's not quite clear what you are doing with the multimeter.  The battery terminal you show has a red i.e. positive cover on it.  Is it the positive or negative terminal? 

Main positive (probably brown) battery lead to solenoid should be live at all times, it does not go via a relay.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:

It's not quite clear what you are doing with the multimeter.  The battery terminal you show has a red i.e. positive cover on it.  Is it the positive or negative terminal? 

Main positive (probably brown) battery lead to solenoid should be live at all times, it does not go via a relay.

 

I had the red of the multimeter going to the starter, then the black/negative goes to the positive of the battery.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, St.Jude said:

I had the red of the multimeter going to the starter, then the black/negative goes to the positive of the battery.

Thought so.   As said  - red of multimeter to starter, black of multimeter to negative of battery, or engine/body earth

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Dave_Q said:

If you want to measure voltage there you need the black on the negative of the battery, or a suitable earth, and the red on the point you're testing.

 

2 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:

Thought so. 

FUCK SAKE!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok check again for voltage at the starter solenoid terminal.

If all Ok, next thing, go to the other wire on the solenoid - probably brown/purple.  You should get a voltage between this wire and earth when the key is turned to start.

If you do get a voltage, the next thing is with ignition off and gear in neutral, carefully touch a wire between the large terminal and the small terminal and see if the solenoid operates.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Mr Pastry said:

Ok check again for voltage at the starter solenoid terminal.

If all Ok, next thing, go to the other wire on the solenoid - probably brown/purple.  You should get a voltage between this wire and earth when the key is turned to start.

If you do get a voltage, the next thing is with ignition off and gear in neutral, carefully touch a wire between the large terminal and the small terminal and see if the solenoid operates.

Thanks, I will try this next weekend when I'm over there. Access is a bastard really.

1 hour ago, RoverFolkUs said:

You were actually trying to do a volt drop test there instead so all was not lost, only executed incorrectly :)

That's good to know, although I am so angry at myself about it because I did a quick Google and did the first thing it said without reading it thoroughly. After the highlighted text it says you should see 12v and then when the ignition is on it'll drop to 0.5v. Didn't see that, but I know for next time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

TBH most of these checks you can do with a test lamp.  You don't need to know fractions of a volt.  You just need to know whether there is juice getting through, or not.  Maybe less confusing than a meter.  

I only have the HBOL diagram - are you using this or a different one - if so, can you link it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Mr Pastry said:

I only have the HBOL diagram - are you using this or a different one - if so, can you link it?

I have the folder of the proper diagrams, apparently. I'll scan these this week, but I'll check the link that was shared here to see if it's the same as what I have.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There was a 'thing' on the 820 where the immobiliser would get confused after a battery disconnect and you had to do some tribal dance involving opening/closing doors, boot and bonnet then lock/unlock the car after you had reconnected the battery (My ex-wife had an 820 company car back in the day and I took the battery off to recharge after we came back from a holiday and, off course, car would then not start. Local dealer's workshop manager phoned the fix through to Mr. Egg on Face here)

If the 827 is the same immobiliser unit then could this be the problem (forgive me if it has already been considered and excluded)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, EyesWeldedShut said:

There was a 'thing' on the 820 where the immobiliser would get confused after a battery disconnect and you had to do some tribal dance involving opening/closing doors, boot and bonnet then lock/unlock the car after you had reconnected the battery (My ex-wife had an 820 company car back in the day and I took the battery off to recharge after we came back from a holiday and, off course, car would then not start. Local dealer's workshop manager phoned the fix through to Mr. Egg on Face here)

If the 827 is the same immobiliser unit then could this be the problem (forgive me if it has already been considered and excluded)?

In my mind if it had the immobiliser there would be a red light illuminated on the dashboard? I don’t recall there being one. 

That said, if there is one then that could well be an issue. I think though that the first instances of this happening I did do the whole lock/unlock bollocks and nothing happened. Never investigated the door lock switch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, St.Jude said:

In my mind if it had the immobiliser there would be a red light illuminated on the dashboard? I don’t recall there being one. 

That said, if there is one then that could well be an issue. I think though that the first instances of this happening I did do the whole lock/unlock bollocks and nothing happened. Never investigated the door lock switch.

Tbh I don't recall if the 820 had any immobiliser lights or LEDs - just that the maintenance guys (fleet car) never trusted the plip on the remote and said to always just use the key.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, EyesWeldedShut said:

Tbh I don't recall if the 820 had any immobiliser lights or LEDs - just that the maintenance guys (fleet car) never trusted the plip on the remote and said to always just use the key.

I think on Mk2’s there would be a red LED on the right hand side bank of buttons. But on a Mk1 I don’t know if it’s a thing.

Ive got a week to research this anyway and do it Saturday 👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...