Cars of Crackers: -aborted- Accidental midweek shite collection

[Crackers]

That's where I'm leaning to, the sender was only replaced a week before I bought it. 

[SiC]

Does the oil light come on with the ignition off? I.e. the circuit works. If so, then I probably wouldn't worry* about the pressure. Iirc these Rover v8s move oil about as high flow rates but at low pressures. 

 

* Which any one who's read the thread on my MGB won't believe is true. 

[Crackers]

8 minutes ago, SiC said:

Does the oil light come on with the ignition off?

The light comes on when you switch the ignition on, then immediately goes out when the engine fires, if that's what you mean.

I.e. yes, the oil light functions as it should.

[2flags]

If the oil light comes on with the ignition and goes out when the engine starts then I would look towards the voltage regulator or the gauge. The sender seems to be working.

[mat_the_cat]

8 hours ago, 2flags said:

The sender seems to be working.

The oil pressure light is triggered by a seperate switch, so I've not seen any evidence to say the sender is ok. As mentioned above, easy to earth the sender wire briefly to check the gauge, and/or measure the resistance of the sender to earth.

I will check if I have a spare - I certainly did as I removed the original to fit one with the right resistance and reversed direction to drive the Hyundai gauge. Whether I binned it I cannot be sure...(but I doubt it!)

[Crackers]

A lovely drive over to a classic specialist this afternoon, I'm leaving it with them for a few days to give it a proper inspection on a ramp and assess the situation regarding the few issues I'm having with it.

If their repair quote is not too ridiculous I'll have them do the work as I'm lazy and I would almost certainly make a mess of it anyway because I'm an idiot. 

Forgot to take a picture as I was in a hurry and also managed to park it in a stupid place so the photo would've been crap anyway. 

I did, however, take it to work today for a change, and agreed with a colleague to bring his rather lovely classic in too. Annoying the photo opportunity was ruined by the seagull that took the liberty of leaving an ENORMOUS deposit on my bonnet 🤬 so this will be repeated soon when the car is both fixed, and cleaned. 

[Mrs6C]

39 minutes ago, Crackers said:

I did, however, take it to work today for a change, and agreed with a colleague to bring his rather lovely classic in too.

Is that an E46 M3 coupe to the left as well? Not many E46 coupes around these days either, especially nice examples...

[Crackers]

Just now, Mrs6C said:

Is that an E46 M3 coupe to the left as well? Not many E46 coupes around these days either, especially nice examples...

No, it wasn't an M3. To be honest I didn't have a look at what it was, but it might have been a 330Ci Clubsport. There's lots of older modified BMWs in the car park so it could be anything really, if I see it again I'll have a look. 

There is a bona fide E46 M3 in blue there from time to time which is very very tasty. I should really take some photos of the stuff around the various car parks - there's all sorts - although I'm not sure how well that would go down if they found out. 

[Conrad D. Conelrad]

51 minutes ago, Crackers said:

A lovely drive over to a classic specialist this afternoon, I'm leaving it with them for a few days to give it a proper inspection on a ramp and assess the situation regarding the few issues I'm having with it.

[Crackers]

22 minutes ago, Conrad D. Conelrad said:

In railway speak, "No Fault Found" 

[High Jetter]

In myspeak, UENFF. (User error, no fault found). Any service engineer will be familiar.

 

[Tadhg Tiogar]

4 hours ago, Crackers said:

..... the seagull that took the liberty of leaving an ENORMOUS deposit on my bonnet ...

Shouldn't feed it chips, then!

[Crackers]

I've just had the inspection report back from the garage. 

Ah.

[Tadhg Tiogar]

5 minutes ago, Crackers said:

I've just had the inspection report back from the garage. 

Ah.

Problemas tecnicos?

[Crackers]

3 minutes ago, Tadhg Tiogar said:

Problemas tecnicos?

Problematicas Rubberras, more accurately.

If it can perish, it has done, basically. That's a bit annoying. 

[Conrad D. Conelrad]

That's no issue. Everything's available. As long as your brake fluid is staying in the reservoir, life is good. 

[Crackers]

I've had a look online for parts as pretty much everything is available. I've not found any single required part that's over £80, with most being significantly less. 

Garage are drawing up an estimate at present, but I'm tempted to try and do a lot of this myself (possibly with the assistance of a shiter or two who actually know what they're doing?) and just get the garage to do the few safety critical bits. 

They've already sorted the oil pressure gauge, the pressure was proven to be excellent but the wiring had a few FUBARed joints which they've soldered back up. 

[Conrad D. Conelrad]

Post the estimate here when you get it. We can tell you what's going to be easy to do or not. 

[Stanky]

4 hours ago, Crackers said:

possibly with the assistance of a shiter or two who actually know what they're doing?

If we all have to help replace rubber bits then I'm getting in early and volunteering for replacing ONE HT LEAD. 😁😁😁

I will also offer an out-of-sight guarantee on my work, insofar as once I have replaced it to my satisfaction I will close my eyes and there shall be zero comebacks on me from that point onwards

In all seriousness, whats needed? I'm sure we could help with some of the bits?

[Crackers]

Please bear with me while I drop trou and prepare for all the money in my life to be jettisoned through the back door.

Basically, everything mechanical is good (oil pressure was checked and proven very healthy), and no rust was commented on (phew), however:

My entire inspection report is a pretty long list which basically boils down to - "Rubber? Yeah, not seen him m8".
Their detailed estimate came out at £HOWFUCKINGMUCH?! which I'm really not prepared to spend. Details as follows.

We have a near full-house of lower suspension bushings and rear diff/crossmember mounts which are worn, soft, failed, oily, or otherwise FUKT. This goes some way to explain the various clonks, I did see this coming but not to the extent it's turned out to be. 

Front brake caliper dust seals have also let go, causing a sticky piston hence the uneven braking.
And they reckon the clutch master cylinder is leaking back, I guess that would explain why the pedal went soft on me once, but I didn't really think much of it as it didn't do it again. They can't investigate the shudder on taking power before the master's sorted, so, I guess that'll have to get done by them first - fair enough..

The rear De-Dion assembly is worn, parts generally NLA now except off breakers. They're capable of doing the required machining on the shaft and bushings, but they haven't quoted for that and frankly I don't want them to - I'll live with that, unless it gets worse.

I need to really think how I'm going to approach this. The parts, while readily available and not expensive individually, add up to a pretty hefty sum. Whilst I have the mechanical skills of an ape, I'm fairly handy with my fingers, so instead of letting them replace the calipers, I reckon I could probably pull them off and rebuild them myself, saving a a lot of money in the process. I could do the front flexi brake hoses too. 

That leaves me with the rather expensive elephant in the room; the various rubber bushes and mounts, which I don't have the ability, knowledge, or tools to tackle myself, but I also don't really have the money to pay garage prices to have it done. Hmm.

[Crackers]

Is there anyone located between London and the South Coast who has some slightly perverse fetish for changing suspension bushings? Apply within!

(I make excellent tea, purchase cake and biscuits, offer frequent helpful* advice, and can provide many many beer tokens in return for the privilege* of working on this fine 4 wheeled conveyance)

[mitsisigma01]

20 hours ago, Stanky said:

If we all have to help replace rubber bits then I'm getting in early and volunteering for replacing ONE HT LEAD. 😁😁😁

I'll go for the radiator overflow pipe😬

[Crackers]

Just now, mitsisigma01 said:

I'll go for the radiator overflow pipe😬

Actually, funny you mention it, the pipe to the expansion tank could use replacing.

Shall I put your name down? 😅

Don't all rush at once! 

[mitsisigma01]

👍 Get a crate of pasties from Soothills Bakery in Fareham and I might even do a windscreen washer pipe or two 😉

[tooSavvy]

"It had 2 on the left and 1 on the right, but when you threw the switch all 3 of 'em came on....."

Oh dear

[mitsisigma01]

38 minutes ago, Crackers said:

Their detailed estimate came out at £HOWFUCKINGMUCH?

[Bfg]

On 4/21/2021 at 4:38 PM, Crackers said:

Please bear with me while I drop trou and prepare for all the money in my life to be jettisoned through the back door.

Basically, everything mechanical is good (oil pressure was checked and proven very healthy), and no rust was commented on (phew), however:

My entire inspection report is a pretty long list which basically boils down to - "Rubber? Yeah, not seen him m8".
Their detailed estimate came out at £HOWFUCKINGMUCH?! which I'm really not prepared to spend. Details as follows.

We have a near full-house of lower suspension bushings and rear diff/crossmember mounts which are worn, soft, failed, oily, or otherwise FUKT. This goes some way to explain the various clonks, I did see this coming but not to the extent it's turned out to be. 

Front brake caliper dust seals have also let go, causing a sticky piston hence the uneven braking.
And they reckon the clutch master cylinder is leaking back, I guess that would explain why the pedal went soft on me once, but I didn't really think much of it as it didn't do it again. They can't investigate the shudder on taking power before the master's sorted, so, I guess that'll have to get done by them first - fair enough..

The rear De-Dion assembly is worn, parts generally NLA now except off breakers. They're capable of doing the required machining on the shaft and bushings, but they haven't quoted for that and frankly I don't want them to - I'll live with that, unless it gets worse.

I need to really think how I'm going to approach this. The parts, while readily available and not expensive individually, add up to a pretty hefty sum. Whilst I have the mechanical skills of an ape, I'm fairly handy with my fingers, so instead of letting them replace the calipers, I reckon I could probably pull them off and rebuild them myself, saving a a lot of money in the process. I could do the front flexi brake hoses too. 

That leaves me with the rather expensive elephant in the room; the various rubber bushes and mounts, which I don't have the ability, knowledge, or tools to tackle myself, but I also don't really have the money to pay garage prices to have it done. Hmm.

I'm facing much the same with my Triumph < here >.  Even my car's "roadworthy" tyres are 27 years old.  And from what I've read - your Rover sounds to be in much better mechanically and structural condition than my own car,  but mine does have the benefit that the prior-owner had already swapped out all the rubber suspension bushes and replaced them with poly-bushes ..albeit possibly too hard  ..and even though in doing so he bodged things like the steering-rack's U-bolt.  Let's face it - if you're going to bodge something then why not your own car's steering ! ? 

Despondent with what I discovered I'd bought ..and what I was now faced with ..and everything else that needs to be done before I could take the car anywhere near an MOT station, I took a small step and ordered heater and radiator hoses, with new clips.  I've only half done that job because the heater's valve fell off in my hand.!  I've bodged that with Araldite for the time being (to get me home that evening) and then ordered a replacement (Jeep) part from the US.  My bodge is holding and so the car is still on the road (although I'm not trusting it to go far or anywhere at night, until things are properly sorted).

Bottom line is.. that everything all together is overwhelming, but taken one (often very little) step at a time ..and in priority of what first needs doing for imminent safety &/or reliability - then in time everything can be systematically tackled and dealt with.  

My car's heater hose were cracked through, weeping and about to burst, so they were done first ..to keep the car as "a rolling recommission".   And then yesterday I replaced the rubber donuts in the steering column, because I only had the time to tackle those and not a bigger task.  I have bought three new tyres, because two on the car are only from 2013 and so can be reused.  But the wire-wheel splines are badly worn, and so I've bought a cheap set of the original pressed-steel wheels and studs and wheel nuts to replace them with (I bet you didn't have that problem with your Rover's wheels ).  

And so it goes on, I will tackle each job as it arises, and as n' when I have the time & energy (I'm just a little older than yourself, so I have to take things at my own pace).  I will learn how to do those things I have no prior experience of and either borrow or buy the tools necessary, so I'll save on professional labour costs.  And I'll enjoy learning everything about this car, and she'll become mine ..rather than "the prior owner restored her".  And I'll also make a few changes along the way ..because I really do know better than the original designers  

Each job done properly, means that it will be good for another 20 years.

And I'm also learning (..a mindset) to approach these tasks (not 'jobs' because nobody pays me !) but also not from the point of view of being beaten down by them.  They are just part & parcel of an enjoyable hobby (not a life and death situation), and I'll share the journey and experiences with like-minded inmates.. 

Or if you prefer the analogy - they are growing pains of a relationship ..where the fella has to learn - it's always him who has to shell out the dosh and to make things right !!

Either way, each task done is something achieved, however seemingly insignificant (like my adjusting the car's bonnet catch today to stop it rattling & shaking like a goods train) it makes an improvement.  And one day my list of tasks to be done will be less than an arm's length.

Stick with it my friend.  You too good a man to be beaten down by perished rubber !

Pete.

[spartacus]

2 hours ago, Bfg said:

I'm facing much the same with my Triumph < here >.  Even my car's "roadworthy" tyres were 27 years old.  And from what I've read - your Rover sounds to be in much better mechanically and structural condition than my own car,  but mine does have the benefit that the prior-owner had already swapped out all the rubber suspension bushes, and replaced them with poly-bushes ..albeit possibly too hard  ..and even though in doing so he bodged things like the steering-rack's U-bolt.  Let's face it - if you're going to bodge something then why not your car's steering ! ? 

Despondent with what I discovered I'd bought ..and what I was now faced with ..and everything else that needs to be done before I could take the car anywhere near an MOT station, I took a small step and ordered heater and radiator hoses, with new clips.  I've only half done that job because the heater's valve fell off in my hand.!  I've bodged that with Araldite for the time being (and to get me home that evening) and then ordered a replacement (Jeep) part from the US.  My bodge is holding and so the car is still on the road (although I'm not trusting it to go far or anywhere at night, until things are properly sorted).

Bottom line is.. that everything all together is overwhelming, but taken one (often very little) step at a time ..and in priority of what first needs doing for imminent safety &/or reliability - then in time everything can be systematically tackled and dealt with.  

My car's heater hose were cracked through, weeping and about to burst, so they were done first ..to keep the car as "a rolling recommission".   And then yesterday I replaced the rubber donuts in the steering column, because I only had the time to tackle those and not a bigger task.  I have bought three new tyres, because two on the car are only from 2013 and so can be reused.  But the wire-wheel splines are badly worn, and so I've bought a cheap set of the original pressed-steel wheels and studs and wheel nuts to replace them with (I bet you didn't have that problem with your Rover's wheels ).  

And so it goes on, I will tackle each job as it arises, and as n' when I have the time & energy (I'm just a little older than yourself, so I have to take things at my own pace).  I will learn how to do those things I have no prior experience of and either borrow or buy the tools necessary, so I'll save on professional labour costs.  And I'll enjoy learning everything about this car, and she'll become mine ..rather than "the prior owner restored her".  And I'll also make a few changes along the way ..because I really do know better than the original designers  

Each job done properly, means that it will be good for another 20 years.

And I'm also learning (..a mindset) to approach these tasks (not 'jobs' because nobody pays me !) but also not from the point of view of being beaten down by them.  They are just part & parcel of an enjoyable hobby (not a life and death situation), and I'll share the journey and experiences with like-minded inmates.. 

Or if you prefer the analogy - they are growing pains of a relationship ..where the fella has to learn - it's always him who has to shell out the dosh and to make things right !!

Either way, each task done is something achieved, however seemingly insignificant (like my adjusting the car's bonnet catch today to stop it rattling & shaking like a goods train) it makes an improvement.  And one day my list of tasks to be done will be less than an arm's length.

Stick with it my friend.  You are better man than to be beaten down with perished rubber !

Pete.

@Crackers, there's a lot of wisdom in here. 

Make up a short list of what you feel is really desperate, get hold of a service book and get stuck in.

[Skizzer]

4 hours ago, spartacus said:

@Crackers, there's a lot of wisdom in here. 

Make up a short list of what you feel is really desperate, get hold of a service book and get stuck in.

This.

The trick is to work out the difference between what’s needed to make it useable versus what would be nice to make it perfect, and prioritise accordingly.

A few garages that do classics understand this, but many will pick out everything that is a bit tired.

It’s an old car. We aren’t all Harry Metcalfe. Make it safe, then make it reliable, then comfy/fast according to taste, then go from there.

[SiC]

Poly bushes have the advantage of being a lot easier to put in without needing presses. Often a big clamp is all that is needed to get the centre section in. Modern repro rubber parts are crap too and you'll end up needing them replacing after not so long - again poly bushes are much better here. You can get poly bushes in different comfort levels, so you don't need to have bone smashing hard levels if they're fitted.

Sounds like it drives ok, so they can't be that bad. As above, do things in order and not all at once. Probably start on the brakes as if they're dragging they will cause other issues. The company @Angrydicky works for rebuilds classic car hydraulic parts, so might be worth giving him a buzz on prices to have the calipers professionally rebuilt.