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Posted

Hang on, people collect fluorescent tubes???   :shock:

 

Aren't you glad this has shone a light into the darkness of your ignorance surrounding such an illuminating hobby?

  • Like 2
Posted

...I figured the user name would have helped give that away :)...

Just not in that context.

 

 

Aren't you glad this has shone a light into the darkness of your ignorance surrounding such an illuminating hobby?

 

Watt?

  • Like 3
Posted

Just not in that context.

 

 

 

 

Watt?

 

what you get up to with a SOX lamp is none of my business...  :mrgreen: (yes there was much giggling in the household when I first got one in for the collection)

 

D%20SLP%20Philips%20SOXP35.jpg

Posted

what you get up to with a SOX lamp is none of my business...

 

It only works if it's in an excited state.....I understand.

  • Like 3
Posted

I went past this guy at around 5ish on the way home from Middleton Cheney. He'd pulled over onto the centre divide between the A43 and the on-ramp from Silverstone.

 

Either it took him ages to fix his wipers, or we were roughly in the same bit of traffic as that's exactly where he was parked up. Except it wasn't really centre divide, it was sort of mildly thinking about perhaps moving over to the right slightly.

Posted

Either it took him ages to fix his wipers, or we were roughly in the same bit of traffic as that's exactly where he was parked up. Except it wasn't really centre divide, it was sort of mildly thinking about perhaps moving over to the right slightly.

 

Yeah, t'wasn't smart. I've never experienced wiper failure, but with a choice between parking it there or pootling along at 30mph with hazards on to the service station a mile down the road, I'd have probably opted for the latter.

Posted

TT didn't start first time again this morning. Even the second time it felt like it didn't want to run. :|

 

It's been doing it for a while. I hope it's just the battery is getting weak or something.

 

Mrs SiC also reports there is a ticking sound when running too. I noticed it a bit lumpy when idling - admittedly the engine was cold.

 

Probably fine... Or its giving warning it's about to shit itself... Or just old VAG car "quirks"...

Next up, the Aircon was making some very strange, disconcerting noises this evening. Stops when you turn it off. Naturally if these compressors siezed up internally, turning it off doesn't disengage it - because VAG. Instead of a compressor clutch that had been used perfectly well for years, these compressors are variable deplacement. So it alters the angle of the pump insides to vary the compression level.

 

Either way I'm just ignoring it. WHAT NOISE?? I HEAR NO NOISE.

 

Pissing thing.

Posted

Working in old empty shops with assorted flats above....

Shop been unoccupied for years, To Let sign hanging off, piles of final demands for utilities behind the creaky door, everything broken and damp. New tenant decides a brilliant idea is to open up again as a takeaway and wants the electrical installation checking. Great....

Lookin around at the spider infested wiring* in the basement was proof enough that it was around 40 years old and a mess. Pulled out a fuse marked up as 'downstairs toilet lighting' as a start in actually verifying what did what.

Five minutes later, hammering at the creaky door.

"Hoy, you, are you the electrician with the van? I live in flat 7c and me telly has just gone off"

FFS.

Replaced the fuse and left. Next week is going to be a long one.

Yo Bob, what happened with that miserable old bag that was threatening you with all sorts of legal bollocks after you helped her out a while back?

Posted

How illuminating !

So, the 'illuminati' are really a secret society of light bulb collectors then?

  • Like 4
Posted

When you read about someone collecting something utterly weird and almost have a WTF moment, then remember that you collect bloody vacuum cleaners...

  • Like 9
Posted

When you read about someone collecting something utterly weird and almost have a WTF moment, then remember that you collect bloody vacuum cleaners...

Or telephones...

Posted

Phones.

 

Or more precisely ones that randomly decide over 90% battery isn't enough to last eight hours while I'm asleep. Every couple of months it randomly goes flat over night. Normally I charge it at night but hadn't bothered this time. Lucky I had nothing to get up for.

Posted

Had the opportunity to park my arse in a Mazda MX-5/Eunos yesterday. Mate of a mate bought it for 500 quid and he's going to just check it over. Seemingly had thousands spent on it. Looking at it you'd be hard pushed to identify where.

 

Has had a respray in two tone mid blue and black, shame the black was on the lower part as it looks like the worlds shiniest tidemark. Ariel was all bent and wonky, interior looked horrible, tattiest leather seats of ever, tired and dull interior, gear lever looked like one of those Yo! Drift things that leave your hand suspended about 2 feet above the level of the dash. Door cards were homemade botched shite. 

 

I sat in it to see how it felt, majorly unimpressed, yes, you sit in the car rather than on the the car like the MGF, I get that now but dear god, my MGF was a million times nicer and comfier place to sit.

 

Perhaps I need to sit in a tidier example to make a more balanced judgement as this one was bloody horrible. I'll stick with F's for now thanks.

  • Like 2
Posted

Should probably be in the bikeshite thread, this - but fuck it, this is about the rage quotient more than the bike itself. I'm talking about the brake calliper assembly on seemingly all modern affordable push bikes. Terrible. And fucking dangerous too. All my daughters' bikes have these shitty, shitty brake assemblies and they're fragile godawful fucking bollocks. I don't know what this system is called but it looks like this:

 

41xFAYB1gDL._SY355_.jpg

 

Instead of this kind, which used to be on pretty much every bike sold in the UK between 1970 and 1990:

 

416Ljn7qmwL.jpg

I cannot tell you how absolutely fucking SHIT the former kind of brake is compared to the latter. The latter is almost foolproof compared to the former. Christ they're bad. The cable regularly pings out of the "thing" - that's the technical term for it by the way. Not bracket. Not even retainer. Just thing. Fucking THING. The easier it goes back in, the quicker it comes off again.

Posted

Yes, they are shit. Cantilever IIRC. Useless tat.

  • Like 1
Posted

Should probably be in the bikeshite thread, this - but fuck it, this is about the rage quotient more than the bike itself. I'm talking about the brake calliper assembly on seemingly all modern affordable push bikes. Terrible. And fucking dangerous too. All my daughters' bikes have these shitty, shitty brake assemblies and they're fragile godawful fucking bollocks. I don't know what this system is called but it looks like this:

 

41xFAYB1gDL._SY355_.jpg

 

Instead of this kind, which used to be on pretty much every bike sold in the UK between 1970 and 1990:

 

416Ljn7qmwL.jpg

I cannot tell you how absolutely fucking SHIT the former kind of brake is compared to the latter. The latter is almost foolproof compared to the former. Christ they're bad. The cable regularly pings out of the "thing" - that's the technical term for it by the way. Not bracket. Not even retainer. Just thing. Fucking THING. The easier it goes back in, the quicker it comes off again.

Sounds like your daughters bike is a BSO - Bicycle Shaped Object. It looks like a bike, smells like a bike but does not ride like a bike.

 

You get decent quality hardware on an actual bikes but it costs a bit more than the "cheap" ones. £400+ at this time of year is going to be the minimum for something worth getting. Back in 1986 that was £144 if you take inflation into account. Which would have been about what a cheap bike would have been.

Posted

Should probably be in the bikeshite thread, this - but fuck it, this is about the rage quotient more than the bike itself. I'm talking about the brake calliper assembly on seemingly all modern affordable push bikes. Terrible. And fucking dangerous too. All my daughters' bikes have these shitty, shitty brake assemblies and they're fragile godawful fucking bollocks. I don't know what this system is called but it looks like this:

 

41xFAYB1gDL._SY355_.jpg

 

Instead of this kind, which used to be on pretty much every bike sold in the UK between 1970 and 1990:

 

416Ljn7qmwL.jpg

I cannot tell you how absolutely fucking SHIT the former kind of brake is compared to the latter. The latter is almost foolproof compared to the former. Christ they're bad. The cable regularly pings out of the "thing" - that's the technical term for it by the way. Not bracket. Not even retainer. Just thing. Fucking THING. The easier it goes back in, the quicker it comes off again.

Top ones are V brakes. Like everything you get good and bad ones. I used to race on XTR V brakes in the late 90s and they are brilliant. Some plastic ones flex and are hopeless.

  • Like 1
Posted

I've no problems with V brakes.

 

As usual, you get what you pay for. Cheap tat is cheap tat. V brakes from a proper manufacturer are fine, once set up properly.

 

 

I also don't understand the huge amounts of hatred for cable-operated disc brakes on bikes. They stop the bike, isn't that all you need?

Posted

Maybe what it is, then, is this - the older type I posted an image of i.e. the second type, do not need to be particularly decent to work properly. You can have cheap components all round and they will operate adequately for as long as there's rubber on the brake blocks. However the former type have to be of reasonable construction using reasonable materials or they will fail quickly and without warning. I think for lightness the V brake design is probably the best. But for efficient and practical use I would need a bit of persuading that the other kind aren't superior. 

Posted

You can get Shimano brake calipers for around £25, even putting one on on your daughter's bike would make it a nineteenty-gazillion times safer. Might have to change the cables.

 

I can never set those ones with the elbow tube set up correctly, which is putting me off using my pushbike more regularly.

  • Like 2
Posted

Maybe what it is, then, is this - the older type I posted an image of i.e. the second type, do not need to be particularly decent to work properly. You can have cheap components all round and they will operate adequately for as long as there's rubber on the brake blocks. However the former type have to be of reasonable construction using reasonable materials or they will fail quickly and without warning. I think for lightness the V brake design is probably the best. But for efficient and practical use I would need a bit of persuading that the other kind aren't superior. 

Check the noodle on the V brake is not bent, this can cause it to pop out as you say is happening. You can also get different radius of curved ones. I had to change the front one when i swapped to Pace RC36 forks as i has the same issue as the brakes are mounted behind the forks.

Make sure they are centred on the wheel, and that each pad hits the rim at the same time. This can be adjusted by the spring tension, normally a small allen key or screw near the bottom of the V brake near the fork mount.

  • Like 1
Posted

You can get Shimano brake calipers for around £25, even putting one on on your daughter's bike would make it a nineteenty-gazillion times safer. Might have to change the cables.

 

I can never set those ones with the elbow tube set up correctly, which is putting me off using my pushbike more regularly.

This is how i used to set up V brakes.

Set spring tension so that each pad the rim at the same time. 

Make sure pads hit rim correctly, sometimes with some toe in to the pad to stop squeal.

Wind barrel adjusted on the brake leaver out half way.

Pull cable tight on the allen key bolt on the V brake.

Brakes will now be on tight.

Wind barrel adjuster all the way back in on the brake lever.

You should be ready to go.

  • Like 2
Posted

My mountain bike is so old it pre-dates V Brakes :oops:

Soon to be a chod bike.

Posted

All this bike brake stuff there is only one type of brake you want on a push bike.

post-5515-0-54450400-1536402948_thumb.jpg

Oh and a decent pair of shoes for when the crap brakes don't work.

Posted

So, I've been a naughty boy and trvellz to fast for the mandated limit.

It is a road I've used for years, although not that frequently and in pretty sure it used to be 50MPH.

Anyway, on day of alleged offence, it was me in the car and the car was indeed on that road, but I can't recall clocking the 40MPH signs but in fairness to the prosecution, they are reasonably clear. I don't recall seeing the manned equipment but I do remember following a tractor for a few miles and overtaking said without danger to fellow road users. Me thinks my pre-occupation with the manoeuvre and historic knowledge of the road has resulted in my punishment.

Two Muphs over the speed awareness threshold so double bollocks and a clean license bites the dust.

Anyway I fessed up and paid the fine. You then get told to send off your license, which for me is an original paper fekker.

Many years ago they used to send you a new one with the code printed on.

Still many years ago they used to write the code and offence on the paper license and return to you. In fact my paper license has a very aged offence still written on it.

So now, having filled out forms, declared license number and other details, paid on-line, you still have to send away your paper with a form.

By now surely they know who you are, they've send the NIP to the recorded keeper. The recorded keeper hasfessed up and provided driver details. A form has been sent asking for payment and payment has been made. All details can be checked on-line so it seems a bit of a waste of time having to send off your license. Suppose it is to stop the submition of the chap next doors license details.

License come back with nowt written on it, details are all held on line.

And with heightened awareness of signed limits through outskirts of towns, boy is our roadsigning shite, utter shite. Limits up and down almost at random and half the time so poorly signposted that sometimes you have not a clue if it is 40 or 50 or 50 or 60......wtf was the last sign I passed. Fuck it now just set the cruise and leave the fekker on despite it pissing off folk with more local knowledge. Had a long stretch of 30mph recently, speed camera signs all over the shop, cruise 30 and the chap behind me nearly had a head on overtaking me. Good for you mate, you know where the cameras are, I don't as I'm not local and the revenue earners can FRO if they are having me over down this stretch.

Before any comes up with a stement that I must be a serial speeder and how given that they drive two thousand miles a year, odds are stacked against me at forty thousand a year

Posted

I've no problems with V brakes.

I also don't understand the huge amounts of hatred for cable-operated disc brakes on bikes. They stop the bike, isn't that all you need?

My dad has a cable operated disc setup on his winter bike. Forever having to adjust it to take up wear and cable stretch.

 

Maybe what it is, then, is this - the older type I posted an image of i.e. the second type, do not need to be particularly decent to work properly. You can have cheap components all round and they will operate adequately for as long as there's rubber on the brake blocks. However the former type have to be of reasonable construction using reasonable materials or they will fail quickly and without warning. I think for lightness the V brake design is probably the best. But for efficient and practical use I would need a bit of persuading that the other kind aren't superior.

They are easy to make cheaply to just about work. Calipers require much closer tolerances and if cheaply made simply jam up and not work at all.

  • Like 1
Posted

This is how i used to set up V brakes.

Set spring tension so that each pad the rim at the same time. 

Make sure pads hit rim correctly, sometimes with some toe in to the pad to stop squeal.

Wind barrel adjusted on the brake leaver out half way.

Pull cable tight on the allen key bolt on the V brake.

Brakes will now be on tight.

Wind barrel adjuster all the way back in on the brake lever.

You should be ready to go.

 

 

Done all that in the past only for the brakes to fail within a few days. Last time I did this it was on my stepdaughter's bike, with a lot of new replacement parts after they failed on her way home from school May last year. Lasted about 4 days before failing again. 

 

Wife took the bike to Halfords where she got it, they re-set up the brakes, they failed after a week.

 

Went to an independent bike shop in Bognor Regis, had them all set up, with complete new V-brake system front & rear at much expense - they failed within a fortnight.

 

I changed her bike brakes to double acting calipers all round for around 60 quid including new cables. Brakes never went out of whack or failed again. Bike is currently on loan to my niece with a toddler seat on the back and has only needed new brake blocks.

 

V-brakes are complete and utter shit. For the most important thing on any vehicle to fail that quickly, set up by a regular bloke, a Halfords Idiot, and then a person who works with day in day out with them, there must be a massive flaw with them. It's all about making things to a cost, not a standard. I'd expect a £400 bike to have decent parts on it.

  • Like 3

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