Fumbler Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 2 minutes ago, egg said: Or trim the fleet back a bit, £35k for 3 garages in Cardigan with extra parking seems not completely beyond the pale... https://www.onthemarket.com/details/6611801/ Been past those garages. They're ropey AF! egg 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alusilber Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 10 hours ago, dollywobbler said: It's because the backwall is below the ground level immediately behind it, and no damp-proofing has been done. Water pours in through that wall. A drain cut into the concrete would help, but that doesn't seem a joyous job. I went for this one on the basis there really wasn't any alternative, but while the location is handy, the unit itself is definitely quite badly flawed. At least it is well ventilated, but I think too much weather is getting in for comfort in all honesty. Tanking slurry might be an option here? (I am not an expert on these things, mind) https://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/underground_waterproofing.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cord Fourteener Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 10 hours ago, dollywobbler said: It's because the backwall is below the ground level immediately behind it, and no damp-proofing has been done. Water pours in through that wall. A drain cut into the concrete would help, but that doesn't seem a joyous job. I went for this one on the basis there really wasn't any alternative, but while the location is handy, the unit itself is definitely quite badly flawed. At least it is well ventilated, but I think too much weather is getting in for comfort in all honesty. Maybe you need a few polypropylene tarps to throw over the stuff that doesn't like being stormed upon. I just did this to our ex-caravan that's actually now a spare room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cord Fourteener Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 I suppose the alternative is the hire of a kango hammer and have a hammer party, dog a trench along the wall where the water is getting in and fill with rubble and gravel to make so-called French drainage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 1 hour ago, Tim_E said: Maybe you need a few polypropylene tarps to throw over the stuff that doesn't like being stormed upon. I just did this to our ex-caravan that's actually now a spare room. Water from above isn't the issue. It's just so wet at ground level. Cord Fourteener 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cord Fourteener Posted October 31, 2020 Share Posted October 31, 2020 15 hours ago, dollywobbler said: Water from above isn't the issue. It's just so wet at ground level. Ok, so rain run-off? It's all about drainage then. Either drain channels before the run off gets in your way and/or create drainage where it gathers. I don't suppose I'm telling you anything you don't know already, but I'd feel negligent if it wasn't said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 Ignoring drainage issues, I finally did something about the Fox's blowing exhaust. New manifold fitted, sounds beautiful. On the drive home, in the dark, I remembered that the instrument lighting is terrible. Then it was non-existent. Then ran out of fuel. Just about got home! I'd been running it low, with no working gauge, so I can drop the tank and investigate the gauge and a leak. For some reason, I'd taken the fuel can out. Helpful! Had a lengthy walk up to the unit today to fetch the 2CV and fuel can. After a brew, I'll get the Fox back up to the unit, so I can drop the tank. It sounds SO much better now though! BlankFrank, LightBulbFun, Cord Fourteener and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
St.Jude Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Saw something on the Rover 75 video you did about the Sailun Altezzo tyres. They're plastic. God awful things. I bought a pair for my 107 years ago with my last £40, and I had several near misses with them. It's an odd feeling, as well you know, of turning to go around a round about in the wet, and the car seemingly going straight on with a pair of brand new tyres. Get them changed. Honestly. Several rubber brands on the rim, held together with Copydex, would be a better choice of tyre than those ditch finders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 That went well then... Chucked some fuel in and tried to drive to my unit. As soon as I went uphill, I lost power. Added more fuel. Then the starter motor died. Ugh. First recovery (of my own car) since the Great Rover 600 Debacle at Chumleigh some years ago. Managed to bump it at my unit, which certainly helped with parking. Most annoying thing is now having about seven litres of fuel in the tank that I didn't want. Will drop it and see what's going on. And now have to try and sort out the starter motor. Which is an absolute pig to get at. BlankFrank, egg, Cord Fourteener and 5 others 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cord Fourteener Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 49 minutes ago, dollywobbler said: That went well then... Chucked some fuel in and tried to drive to my unit. As soon as I went uphill, I lost power. Added more fuel. Then the starter motor died. Ugh. First recovery (of my own car) since the Great Rover 600 Debacle at Chumleigh some years ago. Managed to bump it at my unit, which certainly helped with parking. Most annoying thing is now having about seven litres of fuel in the tank that I didn't want. Will drop it and see what's going on. And now have to try and sort out the starter motor. Which is an absolute pig to get at. On the whole you've been doing quite well then. I think between me and my wife we've had the breakdown out three times in the last two years, twice in the latter half of this year! And that's with what you would call modern cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted November 5, 2020 Author Share Posted November 5, 2020 Yes, people assume I break down all the time, but I don't. Not to the 'need recovery' stage anyway! The 2CV has been recovered once in 20 years, and that was only because a Mondeo smashed her into a truck (pushed the gearbox mount through the gearbox). Cord Fourteener and Eyersey1234 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharley17194 Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 On 10/30/2020 at 12:37 PM, dollywobbler said: Building owner mostly seems a little lacking in the knowledge department - family farm that they've inherited. I don't like to kick off too much as they've already done a fair bit (electrics, water, sorting the door hinges) and it is cheap, but unsuitable storage is unsuitable storage. Problem is, there's no chance of a proper unit near home - minimum 18-mile drive to the nearest towns. There is one building I have my eye on, part of a former dealership, but it's £20,000 a year, so that's a big fat no. Plus I'm not sure it's a good idea to give me that much space... Unit space is a massive issue it seems, we waited 5 years for ours to be come vacant and i suspect anyone else wanting to move in will have to wait until my dead body is physically removed...ok that's a little dark. In terms of your unit blocking some of the side holes would help but i wouldn't block them all as air flow is more important than anything. Secondly ive seen and used paint which stops water coming through bricks, We use it on the roof of our unit as it leaks quite badly in places. our new unit is much more leaky than the last but the extra space means more work on our ever growing fleet of shite gets done. I do need to ask if my fleet of randomness is hubnut enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talbot Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 It sounds to me like your current unit would benefit from having the ground dug away from the back wall so that "ground level" at the back of the building is at/below the concrete of the floor. It could be left like that or have some DPC run up the back wall before backfilling it. It would probably make a massive difference. LightBulbFun 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cord Fourteener Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 13 hours ago, dollywobbler said: Yes, people assume I break down all the time, but I don't. Not to the 'need recovery' stage anyway! The 2CV has been recovered once in 20 years, and that was only because a Mondeo smashed her into a truck (pushed the gearbox mount through the gearbox). Those damned Mondeo drivers. I'm just a guy with a Ford Mondeo, not a Mondeo driver! Having said that, I always said that because I own and drive an old BMW that doesn't make me a BMW driver, just someone who drives one... I don't know. I hope you got a good insurance pay out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy Mann Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 12 hours ago, sharley17194 said: . Secondly ive seen and used paint which stops water coming through bricks, We use it on the roof of our unit as it leaks quite badly in places. What brand/type have you used? I have an asbestos garage that leaks in places (unless it's a long term down pour I can keep things dry with some buckets and spare plastic roofing sheet diverting the big leaks into one two buckets (and importantly off the workbench)). New roof next year (maybe) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharley17194 Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 17 minutes ago, Landy Mann said: What brand/type have you used? I have an asbestos garage that leaks in places (unless it's a long term down pour I can keep things dry with some buckets and spare plastic roofing sheet diverting the big leaks into one two buckets (and importantly off the workbench)). New roof next year (maybe) I used this! https://www.toolstation.com/black-bituminous-paint/p88792?store=MF&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkNu5mKns7AIVTOztCh0MuwryEAQYAiABEgJ04_D_BwE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy Mann Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 Thanks, a job for the dry I think! sharley17194 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSteve Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 I used Flexacryl Instant Repair from Screwfix- it is a grey brush-on gloop with fibres in that fills small holes/seals leaks in a corrugated asbestos roof quite well. Larger holes ( a few cm) will need tape underneath to support the gloop until it sets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrcento Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 12 hours ago, sharley17194 said: Unit space is a massive issue it seems, we waited 5 years for ours to be come vacant.... I've been after a unit for 13 years. I can't get one within 30 miles and they're only getting more expensive. It seems that once somebody takes one on, it gets passed on to mates taking over leases etc, they rarely ever see market. The absolute perfect one came up for me last month, 5 minutes walk, electric, water, 3-4 cars in size, ideal in every way. Except for price and condition. The terms on offer were basically top end of market price + liability for everything exterior and interior....and all legal costs, and all professional costs to the landlord. And the roof is rotten, so will likely need done in the next year. So basically move in = taking on full liability for a roof replacement even in order to hand it back. Mugs game. Somebody has taken it. Good luck to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brownnova Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 Right so that’s decided... if I ever win the lottery I’ll go around buying up land, building units and renting them to Shiters at reasonable cost... sounds like a business plan to me!! Eyersey1234, High Jetter, egg and 8 others 6 2 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted November 6, 2020 Author Share Posted November 6, 2020 Matiz is through the MOT, after a slight emission battle and a blown bulb. So much about this car is crap, but I adore the looks and noise it makes. Here's a shot of the 2CV last night. Eyersey1234, RobT, timolloyd and 18 others 21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexi Posted November 6, 2020 Share Posted November 6, 2020 Nice pics. First one I took no notice of a car............those boats are gorgeous. Look like rowing type Dory/Skiffs..........Luverly!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted November 7, 2020 Author Share Posted November 7, 2020 Sana time. Hooked up a battery and this time, I did manage to get the starter motor operating by bridging contacts. Hoorah! But I still can't get any power to the ignition switch. None. Mr Bickle kindly sent me a manual, but it manages to contain not one iota of a wiring diagram (other than the internals of the alternator). It does apparently have a device that shuts off fuel on the overrun though! I thought that was a trick only used with fuel injection... The manual will be a huge help with other aspects, but until I can fathom out the wiring, I'm feeling a bit stuck. Tempted to bring a 'hot' wire into the car from the battery, to try and get stuff working, but there are six different wires, and I don't fully understand what each does. Could be risky to just start chucking 12v into them. I'm pretty sure brown should be the 12v feed, and the red is to activate the starter, but the blue/white and blue/black are a mystery, as are two tiny white wires. Cord Fourteener, BlankFrank, phil_lihp and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayMK Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 26 minutes ago, dollywobbler said: Sana time. Hooked up a battery and this time, I did manage to get the starter motor operating by bridging contacts. Hoorah! But I still can't get any power to the ignition switch. None. Mr Bickle kindly sent me a manual, but it manages to contain not one iota of a wiring diagram (other than the internals of the alternator). It does apparently have a device that shuts off fuel on the overrun though! I thought that was a trick only used with fuel injection... The manual will be a huge help with other aspects, but until I can fathom out the wiring, I'm feeling a bit stuck. Tempted to bring a 'hot' wire into the car from the battery, to try and get stuff working, but there are six different wires, and I don't fully understand what each does. Could be risky to just start chucking 12v into them. I'm pretty sure brown should be the 12v feed, and the red is to activate the starter, but the blue/white and blue/black are a mystery, as are two tiny white wires. You may have already searched the web but if not, try a free manual download for the Yugo Sana or Zastava Florida from one of several sites e.g. https://www.onlymanuals.com/zastava/yugo_sana With luck, one of them may have an applicable wiring diagram. Cord Fourteener 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted November 7, 2020 Author Share Posted November 7, 2020 7 minutes ago, RayMK said: You may have already searched the web but if not, try a free manual download for the Yugo Sana or Zastava Florida from one of several sites e.g. https://www.onlymanuals.com/zastava/yugo_sana With luck, one of them may have an applicable wiring diagram. Sadly not. The wiring seems to be quite different to the Koral (45/55/65) sadly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharley17194 Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 Drop a wire from the battery to positive side of the coil and just disconnect the other live wire. Normally enough to hotwire all carb cars and get a spark. I've found power probes are amazing for finding out what's live, what isn't and what should be! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted November 7, 2020 Author Share Posted November 7, 2020 9 minutes ago, sharley17194 said: Drop a wire from the battery to positive side of the coil and just disconnect the other live wire. Normally enough to hotwire all carb cars and get a spark. I've found power probes are amazing for finding out what's live, what isn't and what should be! Yeah, problem is, there are four wires going into the coil on a multiplug. It's a bit more advanced than I expected! sharley17194 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharley17194 Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 Yeah that seems excessive, I've seen 3 never 4 lol. Normally live, ballast live and a supressor. Is it still 2 terminals? Oooo if it has a rev counter it might pic up a feed from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted November 7, 2020 Author Share Posted November 7, 2020 3 minutes ago, sharley17194 said: Yeah that seems excessive, I've seen 3 never 4 lol. Normally live, ballast live and a supressor. Is it still 2 terminals? Oooo if it has a rev counter it might pic up a feed from there. No, it's a multiplug. The coil is like a modern type rather than the old cylinder type. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharley17194 Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 15 minutes ago, dollywobbler said: No, it's a multiplug. The coil is like a modern type rather than the old cylinder type. Ahhh how very advance! I definitely wasn't expecting that, sounds like you were not expecting that either! Best get the Powerprobe out and see if any of the wires give power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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