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Posted

How did you change the ATF? It usually takes about four drain and refill changes to replace most of the ATF.

Used a pump on the tube. I didnt expect it all out. Taken 4 litres out of 5.4 total
Posted

I need a pair of rear brake backing plates and hand brake cables for a 2010 T31 2.0 dci manual Nissan X-trail.

Dealer only parts apparently.

Do any of you know if these are fitted to any other cars nissan or other or anywere i may get them apart from dealer bend over and grit them teeth sir.

Posted

Correction - I've had aftermarket cables for a t31 but I'd imagine the back plates are dealer only

Posted

^^Yep i can get aftermarket cables from EC, but they are supposed to be a poor fit.

Looking at a £600 bill.

Posted

I need a pair of rear brake backing plates and hand brake cables for a 2010 T31 2.0 dci manual Nissan X-trail.

Dealer only parts apparently.

Do any of you know if these are fitted to any other cars nissan or other or anywere i may get them apart from dealer bend over and grit them teeth sir.

New brake backing plates........2010 car....does not compute....

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Posted

New brake backing plates........2010 car....does not compute....

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Cheap nissan tin.The plates have rusted,so new ones needed.

Posted

Cheap nissan tin.The plates have rusted,so new ones needed.

I would slather the replacements in hammerite or stonechip in that case (assuming you are keeping the car!)

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Posted

Merc ones don't even last that long - on the plus side they are cheap and usually in stock - shocker

Posted

I was clearing out my Dad's garage at the weekend and found these 2CV bits from when I was going to take delivery of a free ex-race 2CV until inter-department politics meant it was scrapped instead :(

 

Does anyone know what they are (they look like part of the heat ducting system?) if they are worth selling and if so for how much? I could do with some money for new drop links!

Yes, they are the cooling tin ware as found on pre-80s 2cv engines. If they're in good condition they do sell quickly.
Posted

I'm trying to fix a 2001 Scenic with the 2.0 16v F4R engine. The issue is that it sounds like a really rough diesel. Obvious answer should be the dephaser pulley but the noise goes away if the aux belt is removed.

 

The noise sounds like it's coming from the top of the engine, it's not the aux idler or tensioner as both have been replaced and the noise persisted. The alternator has been tested and seems to all be ok with no obvious play in the bearings and the only other thing up there is the power steering pump which is marginally stiff to turn and has a bit of movement (99.9% back and forwards) of the pulley but I thought that was to be expected of a power steering pump.

 

The air con, water pump and crank pulleys down below all seem pretty sweet, so the question is this: could the dephaser make a noise only with the aux belt in place or should I just get a new power steering pump for it?

Posted

Ok. Hear me out.

 

Do I:

 

Get the Golf MOT'd on Weds? The only issue is that I won't be able to tax it for at least a couple of weeks as the V5C never came back and I have sent off for another. Plus I haven't quite got enough cash to MOT AND tax it just yet.

 

The other option is:

 

Do I sort out a DD on road tax for the 156 Sportwagon which is already insured and MOT'd.

Posted

Power steering pumps can get very noisy when knackered.

Posted

Anyone ever tried a Gunson Colortune?

 

Yep, still have mine somewhere. Assuming we're talking about the same thing, it's kinda a glass spark plug that allows you to see combustion. I used it quite a bit on carb'd cars when adjusting the mixture. It came with a wee book, IIRC. I last used it on a Maestro Clubman in 2009.

Posted

Ok. Hear me out.

 

Do I:

 

Get the Golf MOT'd on Weds? The only issue is that I won't be able to tax it for at least a couple of weeks as the V5C never came back and I have sent off for another. Plus I haven't quite got enough cash to MOT AND tax it just yet.

 

The other option is:

 

Do I sort out a DD on road tax for the 156 Sportwagon which is already insured and MOT'd.

Well,taxing the Alfa will get backdated to the start of this month,and you'll get hit for 2 months worth in cost when the 1st DD goes out...but you'll be on the road immediately

  • Like 2
Posted

As the Oldsmobile is now getting close to actually being road legal and useable, the mechanical bits almost sorted my mind is turning to the cosmetics. It is a pale metallic blue with the 1990's GM paint issues. A lot of cracking/crazing on the roof, bonnet and boot. Looks fairly bad TBH. So, do I rub down the cracks and laquer it? As in the rat look or go for a home re spray? Obv not in metallic blue, but in a flat colour. Have flatted back the boot as a trial and laquered the result as an experiment. Rat look looks ok ish but dunno.. Am tending to the re spray option but in black rather than blue. Rat look or black?

Posted

Yes, it's a fail if the driver's door (or any door) won't open from the outside, front doors must also open from inside. You can "remove" a door by filling all the shut lines, that would lead to an advisory about how much of a PITA it was to get into the driver's seat with no bloody door...

Please tell me you've had a chance to write that down for an orange mk4 cortina with an 01 on the door and a Rebel flag on the roof:)

  • Like 3
Posted

I need a pair of rear brake backing plates and hand brake cables for a 2010 T31 2.0 dci manual Nissan X-trail.

Dealer only parts apparently.

Do any of you know if these are fitted to any other cars nissan or other or anywere i may get them apart from dealer bend over and grit them teeth sir.

Can't you just make yourself new cables up using the old ones as patterns? Being able to solder with a blow lamp or oxy is a pre-requisite though

Posted

So if I tax the Alfa on the 1st Oct, they will only take the one DD? Yes?

Posted

Calling SAB (shiters advice bureau)

This might not fall under the shite umbrella exactly, but I would appreciate forumites' opinions.

 

I bought a Honda CR-V diesel 57 plate at an auction. It has full service history, two owners, 140k miles, mot May '17 and was entered by a retail dealer along with a load of other unwanted trade ins presumably. I paid 2400 for it.

 

It's a lemon.

 

At about 55 mph it shakes like it has an unbalanced wheel, but it only happens under power, not coasting. Google search suggests drive shaft. That's not all...

 

There is a diesel leak from the fuel tank area. There is also a hollow noise like the tank is knocking on something, when driving over a bump. On inspection, the tank has rags stuffed up either side of it although the strap seems to be in place and secure. Worrying bodge by a previous owner. Also...

 

There is a rattle off the engine when at idle. Sounds like it is coming from an ancillary or a pulley. Goes away when revs are increased above idle. Investigation similar to philibusmo's earlier post required. And...

 

The turbo doesn't seem to kick in until about 3000 revs. The engine is quite sooty and I wonder if both symptoms point to the egr needing cleaned or replaced or if it's more serious. Not to mention...

 

There are signs of respray on one wing.

 

I bottled it and put it back in the auction in the hope of passing the problem on to some other sucker, but as you can imagine, it appears to be incapable of attracting bids within a grand of what I paid. This might be because it is now entered as a private entry and the regulars recognise it from three weeks ago.

 

I'm considering taking it to a local garage and asking them to fix it and either keep it, or preferably, sell it privately. Alternatively, I could sit on it for a month and try it back in the auction closer to winter and 4x4 weather.

 

What would you do?

Posted

Fuck it off ! The 2.2 Honda diesel wasn't a great one and Honda parts prices will make your eyes water .

 

First loss is best loss

  • Like 2
Posted

The air con blows hot on my e46.

 

There doesn't appear to be an air con fan??? Does anyone have a photo of the fan?

Posted

Calling SAB (shiters advice bureau)

This might not fall under the shite umbrella exactly, but I would appreciate forumites' opinions.

 

I bought a Honda CR-V diesel 57 plate at an auction. It has full service history, two owners, 140k miles, mot May '17 and was entered by a retail dealer along with a load of other unwanted trade ins presumably. I paid 2400 for it.

 

It's a lemon.

 

At about 55 mph it shakes like it has an unbalanced wheel, but it only happens under power, not coasting. Google search suggests drive shaft. That's not all...

 

There is a diesel leak from the fuel tank area. There is also a hollow noise like the tank is knocking on something, when driving over a bump. On inspection, the tank has rags stuffed up either side of it although the strap seems to be in place and secure. Worrying bodge by a previous owner. Also...

 

There is a rattle off the engine when at idle. Sounds like it is coming from an ancillary or a pulley. Goes away when revs are increased above idle. Investigation similar to philibusmo's earlier post required. And...

 

The turbo doesn't seem to kick in until about 3000 revs. The engine is quite sooty and I wonder if both symptoms point to the egr needing cleaned or replaced or if it's more serious. Not to mention...

 

There are signs of respray on one wing.

 

I bottled it and put it back in the auction in the hope of passing the problem on to some other sucker, but as you can imagine, it appears to be incapable of attracting bids within a grand of what I paid. This might be because it is now entered as a private entry and the regulars recognise it from three weeks ago.

 

I'm considering taking it to a local garage and asking them to fix it and either keep it, or preferably, sell it privately. Alternatively, I could sit on it for a month and try it back in the auction closer to winter and 4x4 weather.

 

What would you do?

 

Insurance & matches.

  • Like 2
Posted
At about 55 mph it shakes like it has an unbalanced wheel, but it only happens under power, not coasting. Google search suggests drive shaft. - had a simlar problem with my S80 turned out to be the front tyres, which suprised me as it only happened when accelerating, try swapping front tyres to the back

 

There is a rattle off the engine when at idle. Sounds like it is coming from an ancillary or a pulley. Goes away when revs are increased above idle. Investigation similar to philibusmo's earlier post required. -DMF, or if from the pulleys, aircon pulley? Grab one of these to help find it:


 

 

What would you do?

Difficult if the cost of the repairs isn't too much you might be better of keeping it, knowing that all the faults are fixed.

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