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Posted

There's few wiring/electrical issues I need to sort anyway. The temp gauge doesn't work,only one wire going to sensor,god knows where the other is,the cooling fan comes off and on when it feels like it,always comes on with ignition for a few seconds then goes off and the battery charge light doesn't come on but flickers when you crank engine,also the handbrake light flickers on and off or stays on. There is enough brake fluid in it so I know its not that. Thanks for suggestions folks.

Posted

I think there should be only one wire going to the temp sensor. Take that wire off and touch it on the engine, if the gauge goes to max you need a new sensor.

Posted

Some fords have 2 senders, one being the CTS, other being the sender itself. I'd just swap the sensor they are only a couple of quid anyway. 22mm IIRC. You could rule out the earth though first by creating a known good one to rule this out though.

Posted

Regards temp gauge,I earthed it to block and gauge didn't move. I considered there just being one wire so I unplugged it from the pin it was on and put wire to the other pin on the sensor and gauge sprung to life. Great advice thanks

Posted

The wifey's just phoned and, going by her description, it sounds like the brake servo isn't working on her alfa. I told her to switch off the engine, press the brake pedal, restart the engine to see if the pedal drops. It didn't.

 

Why would a brake servo stop working? Previous to this, the turbo actuator hasn't been doing anything. I believe it works off the vacuum pressure created by the brake servo. I could be a mechanical retard of course.

 

[sherlock] Could these problems be related? [\Sherlock]

Posted

yeah, lots of stuff run a vacuum system that works turbo, EGR and other stuff, all plumbed in with the servo. A hose might have rubbed through against something or more commonly the ends split where they are pushed onto connectors and leak and eventually fall off. 

Posted

The wifey's just phoned and, going by her description, it sounds like the brake servo isn't working on her alfa. I told her to switch off the engine, press the brake pedal, restart the engine to see if the pedal drops. It didn't.

 

Why would a brake servo stop working? Previous to this, the turbo actuator hasn't been doing anything. I believe it works off the vacuum pressure created by the brake servo. I could be a mechanical retard of course.

 

[sherlock] Could these problems be related? [\Sherlock]

Vacuum created by the servo? What magickery is this? If it's a petrol it'll use the vacuum from the inlet fannymould, if it's a diseasal it'll have a pump. As you have a turbot there I assume diesel, so pump it is. As Dave6546465464346546354 says, pipe off or worn through, but the pumps can die too.

Posted

Vacuum created by the servo? What magickery is this? If it's a petrol it'll use the vacuum from the inlet fannymould, if it's a diseasal it'll have a pump. As you have a turbot there I assume diesel, so pump it is. As Dave6546465464346546354 says, pipe off or worn through, but the pumps can die too.

Thanks, for some reason I had it in my head that the brake servo produced the vacuum pressure.

 

The brakes seem to be working ok again so I'm further confused.

Posted

The shitlander has a vacuum reservoir - a reinforced plastic bottle that "stores" vacuum. When I last had a perished vac hose the brakes (assistance of the brakes i should say) became intermittant as the pump tried to create vacuum to be stored and it leaked out just as fast.

Posted

The wifey's just phoned and, going by her description, it sounds like the brake servo isn't working on her alfa. I told her to switch off the engine, press the brake pedal, restart the engine to see if the pedal drops. It didn't.

 

What was the symptom your wife reported?

Posted

What was the symptom your wife reported?

Brakes not working properly. I asked if the pedal was going to the floor but no, it was very firm and not moving much at all.

 

Tomorrow's job will be to investigate further.

Posted

Yeah, vacuum line to the servo leaking/clogged/disconnected.  Especially if it's happened suddenly.

 

If it is gradual, the servo cylinder might have a worn seal, letting brake fluid ooze into the servo, reducing its efficiency.  But that is very gradual and hard to notice.

Posted

Are you supposed to treat cabrio hoods with some magic stuff or other, or is it just a case of washing it along with the rest of the car?

Posted

yeah you can get a cleaning and repelant kit , spray on and scuff with a soft brush to get it clean , then cover the paint and mist on some repelant stuff to make the water bead up 

  • Like 1
Posted

I've always cleaned my soft tops with whatever I wash the car with and a soft brush then once a year painted with tent proofing stuff. Fabasil? Plumbers silicon grease on the seals as well, keeps them supple and the water beading helps them seal.

  • Like 1
Posted

What's good glue for fixing driving mirrors back on to windscreens?  The mirror on the Audi fell off this morning when my pal went to adjust it;  I've stuck it back with trim tape for now but it vibrates more than you'd like.  

 

I've had limited success with Araldite in the past... Sikaflex?

Posted

Get the proper pads. They are pennies from a Ford dealer. Don't buy the Halfords pads, they come in 2 packs for a reason.

Posted

My (K11) Micra has seen fit to empty its expansion tank of coolant.

 

No signs of water in the oil, and no obvious signs of a leaking pipe/join. One thing I did notice is that when I have the blower on warm, for the first 15 or so seconds there is a warm/burning smell.

 

What gives?

 

 

 

You might (might) have 2 separate problems here. The second one might be a damaged or stuck fan, which overheats because it's stuck, then frees itself after a few seconds so that it runs properly but blows a "burning" smell out of the vents for a bit thereafter. WD 40 might assist here....

 

The other problem is a leak of some kind, from somewhere. If there's no water in the oil or vice versa and the temperature gauge isn't doing silly things, the weeping pipes or clips would be a good place to start to search out problems. Another place to investigate is the expansion tank itself; if it's split the coolant will spray out over the engine as a mist, so you won't see anything when it's turned off. I had this problem many years ago with  Skoda Favorit & it took ages to track it down. If it is this it's an easy do.

 

Hope this helps!

  • Like 2
Posted

What's good glue for fixing driving mirrors back on to windscreens? The mirror on the Audi fell off this morning when my pal went to adjust it; I've stuck it back with trim tape for now but it vibrates more than you'd like.

 

I've had limited success with Araldite in the past... Sikaflex?

The glue with the bit of mesh stuck between works ok. Sold at halfords.

Posted

Took the gearbox off the C4 to replace the clutch (and to find out I'd ordered the wrong one) and the gearbox input shaft bearing was also missing, I say missing it was spread around the inside of the box.

I've ordered a new one and the correct clutch but does anyone know of an exploded type diagram of the box? HBOL is no help and I just want to make sure I don't miss anything. 

Citroen C4 2004 1.4 pez.

Posted

http://service.citroen.com/

 

I'm not even sure what an output bearing is, the one on the end of the second line where it heads off into the diff?

 

Choice of 2 1.4 pez's, then choice of 7 gearboxes, groan. Needs vin. Although it might be easier to use the part number for the bearing..

Posted

I was sure that said output.... The MA is the only one that doesn't have a stack of shims on the input shaft,, so if that's yours then ok. If the gearbox wasn't grinding before then it should be ok (I only have experience of RWD gearboxes with a separate input shaft, usually if this bearing goes then it wears the gears out pronto but I presume as it's all one shaft things might be different.)

Posted

It did, I changed it before anyone else noticed  :-P

It is an MA apparently.

I bought it pre-borked the clutch had gone so I picked it up for £250.

The gearbox has breaker markings so been replaced before and of these two parts: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191433881645?euid=03d5fd1fd7ba4bb180a97e2cd6494511&cp=1

and the thrust bearings there was very little left other than a few shards and ball bearings embedded in the case. 

The shaft seems fine but can be wiggled a little but seems fine, I presume this is down the detonated bearing.

Posted

Those gearboxes are prone to bearing failures and I have re-built a few. I use these guys as they are just up the road. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-207-1-4-HDi-5-speed-MA-gearbox-genuine-bearing-oil-seal-rebuild-kit-/121171112083?hash=item1c365c7093:m:mIT6DGzIAzEsfNz3eV46mpA.

They pressed the new bearings on for me as well as I took the shafts and diff in. If you haven;t driven it before doing the clutch you can be sure it was noisey as fuck in 1st 2nd and third. The last one I did was my 1007 which the muppet I bought it from insisted was quiet, even though when I got it apart the front bearing fell to bits.

Posted

It's for the old man so I'm not too bothered. The boxes are pretty cheap second hand (seen them from £35) so if it is noisy I might just replace it.

Posted

My friend has a Xantia HDi 90 that he likes. He recently bought an HDi 110 spares car and wants to upgrade the 90 to 110 spec. What does he need to do other than swap the intercooler and gubbins over? Are the injectors different?

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