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Posted

I'm in the York Retail Park ATM. I see a shop 'Animal' with the strange logo...

 

Why do Toyota trucks seem to be 'showroom' with this logo??

 

Outdoor/ tough clothing link... mebbies ??

 

 

TS

Posted

A friend of mine (has a Ford Explorer and Mazda RX8 and previously had many interesting cars) asked me to name a 4X4 that has a petrol engine. I instantly reponded "Subaru Impeza" but he said that was cheating and he meant workhorse off road type thing. So what is there?

Posted

L200s are available with a V6 pez. Triton, I think they call them.

 

Pajero comes with a V6 pez too.

 

You can get a 2 litre pez Discovery 2

 

Loads of "soft" roaders....freelander, sportrak, vitara, jimny.

 

In fact, there are loads of them.

  • Like 2
Posted

Disco 3 can be had with 4.6 V8 Pez.

 

A few Disco 4 5.0 pez V8s were allegedly sold even though not officially listed.

 

Various flavours of V8 pez Land Rovers over the years.

  • Like 1
Posted

Can you still buy a Transit or Land Rover Defender with a petrol engine?

 

Are there any cars available new with vinyl seats, keep fit windows or power steering?

 

Is it still possible to buy a new diesel car without a turbo?

 

:?

All this talk about a petrol powered off roader reminds me of this post which started the whole thread off.

Posted

A friend of mine (has a Ford Explorer and Mazda RX8 and previously had many interesting cars) asked me to name a 4X4 that has a petrol engine. I instantly reponded "Subaru Impeza" but he said that was cheating and he meant workhorse off road type thing. So what is there?

Ford Maverick

  • Like 1
Posted

Why do we still have clutches in cars? Surely the automatic transmission has evolved into a better and more reliable solution and for those who want to change gears themselves then why not have a fluid coupling? Surely topping up with oil is easier than replacing worn clutches and dual mass flywheels?

Posted

Why do we still have clutches in cars? Surely the automatic transmission has evolved into a better and more reliable solution and for those who want to change gears themselves then why not have a fluid coupling? Surely topping up with oil is easier than replacing worn clutches and dual mass flywheels?

 

You mean the Ford/Mazda Durashift the wonderfully modern automatic pox fitted to smaller cars Festa, Fucus  errrrrrrr Transits controlled by a box of electric elfs ??  Yes the automatic gearbox is so advanced and suitable for modens that Ford/Mazda got a manual gearbox and clutch and fitted a few old Bosch wiper motors (I kid ye not) in place of the gearstick then the electric elfs decide when to start the hydraulic clutch pump and run the Bosch wipers motors to select a gear.  WCPGW ?  Here's one I repaired earlier.

 

post-7239-0-46317600-1491809898_thumb.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

Jesus, Those really are wiper motors, that's amazing! it's like something they put together on scrapheap challenge to allow them to make a sierra remote controlled in order to drive it off the side of a quarry but they couldn't get hold on an automatic one.

Posted

Aye, my C2 VTR shat its clutch actuator. I took it apart and the actual motor looked about the right size for an electric toothbrush, with a massive set of plastic gears to generate enough force to pull the clutch lever. Obviously the gears had stripped and that was it buggered.

Posted

Is making a car smoke unnecessarily now a thing?  

 

I ask in all innocence of what Modern Yoof do with their "rides" I believe they call them.   

 

Is it another form of OMGRATLUK?  

 

Only asking because I was buzzed by two fakely rusted sticker-bombed, rubber-band tyred, comically lowered Civics yesterday coming back from Bournemouth.   They both had fart cannons of the type you hear before they come past, are vaguely silent as they go alongside and then reverberate several moments later after they pass.   Both of them were smoking fairly heavily but it didn't look or smell like oil or fuel.  

Posted

Oh dear. 

 

And here was me malevolently assuming that their engines were a McDonalds burnout or two from grenading.....

Posted

Is there here any other explanation for my dad's old V70 D5 deciding to stop charging after a month of sitting other than a shagged alternator? I don't want to replace it only to discover it's still not charging.

Is there a way to test it while it's on the car?

The non-charging is accompanied by an electrical systems fault message.

TIA

I would swap the battery first as it may not be able to take a charge, dont buy a new one just use one off something else you have as it doesnt have to fit properly to test it on the drive.

Could be easier and cheaper than the alternator.

Posted

Had to Google Rolling coal.

 

Morons. Right up there with vaping twats who insist on making as much "smoke" as possible.

Usually accompanied by an ill fitting beard.

 

I've turned this into Grumpy old Man. Sorry.

  • Like 3
Posted

Had to Google Rolling coal.

 

Morons. Right up there with vaping twats who insist on making as much "smoke" as possible.

Usually accompanied by an ill fitting beard.

 

I've turned this into Grumpy old Man. Sorry.

 

It is just Newton's third law in action.... (  see Brexit,  BNP, renewable energy, healthy eating et all....)

Posted

Anyone good at interpreting vac gauge readings?

 

This is at idle and the needle is jittering around - but the deflections are very small and quick.

 

post-20411-0-57197900-1492344807_thumb.jpg

 

I have so far -

 

Checked Compressions (good on all 8 cylinders)

Changed all plugs, HT leads, Rotor Arm and Dizzy Cap (yesterday).

Checked timing - OK, but tried advancing a little on standard - no different.

Fitted a new carb (last week).

 

Symptoms -

 

Very reluctant to start and run when cold, once warm, better, but dies on anything other than very moderate acceleration.

 

 

I was hoping the vac gauge would show a an air leak somewhere, but it doesn't seem to be conclusive.

 

Not sure what to check next.  I would drop the spare engine in, but I am worried that if it's actually fuel system (tank, pump etc) that's going to be a lot of work for nowt.

 

One of the old plugs looks like this which is a bit worrying - do I need to do (another) comp check on that cylinder?

 

 

post-20411-0-85314800-1492344735_thumb.jpg

Guest Hooli
Posted

The vacuum gauge should have a damper in the pipe. Do that up a bit until it stops wobbling. The wobble you're seeing is the changes in intake vacuum as the intake valves open & close.

  • Like 2
Posted

I have so far -

 

Checked Compressions (good on all 8 cylinders)

Changed all plugs, HT leads, Rotor Arm and Dizzy Cap (yesterday).

Checked timing - OK, but tried advancing a little on standard - no different.

Fitted a new carb (last week).

 

What state is the distributor in ? Does it have a vacuum advance ?

Guest Hooli
Posted

spray carb cleaner all around the intake manifold, if the engine revs up then that's where the air leak is

Posted

What state is the distributor in ? Does it have a vacuum advance ?

Not sure about the state of the Dizzy - I bought it off a mate of mine as it's had the points replaced with electronic ones - car ran better when I initially fitted it.

 

It does have a vac advance as well as a mechanical one via those little balance weights (which I have checked).

Posted

The vacuum gauge should have a damper in the pipe. Do that up a bit until it stops wobbling. The wobble you're seeing is the changes in intake vacuum as the intake valves open & close.

 

Thanks - pleased about that - so it looks like I am just low on vac at idle - I will try the card cleaner spray test next them.  

 

Thanks all - this place, etc

Guest Hooli
Posted

You'd expect low vacuum on idle, the engine isn't breathing much.

I'm not sure how you expect to see an air leak tbh, doesn't matter where the air is getting in the vacuum will be the same as that's what the engine is sucking in. Without readings from it when healthy you won't know if it's out anyway.

Posted

VW door locks, yeh i know, possibly the flimsiest and most troublesome door locks known to man.

 

A 2001 Polo 6N2, has had intermittent working central locking and the gubbins inside the drivers lock barrel were busted. I've rebuilt the drivers lock barrel and all seems to be working smoothly and changed the drivers door lock for a second hand unit. Put it back together and it was all working fine yesterday.

Today it isn't. I can't get the central locking working at all now and when the key is moved in the barrel it just seems to open the front electric windows and not much else. Using a flat blade i can manually lock and unlock the doors from the slot that the barrel usually sits in but i cant get it to work from key/barrel itself.

Posted

VW door locks, yeh i know, possibly the flimsiest and most troublesome door locks known to man.

 

A 2001 Polo 6N2, has had intermittent working central locking and the gubbins inside the drivers lock barrel were busted. I've rebuilt the drivers lock barrel and all seems to be working smoothly and changed the drivers door lock for a second hand unit. Put it back together and it was all working fine yesterday.

Today it isn't. I can't get the central locking working at all now and when the key is moved in the barrel it just seems to open the front electric windows and not much else. Using a flat blade i can manually lock and unlock the doors from the slot that the barrel usually sits in but i cant get it to work from key/barrel itself.

Polo door locks are indeed made from chocolate, cheese and buscuits. Aftermarket ones are about £8 on Ebay but probably overpriced at that.

The wiring loom from the A post into the door tends to fray and snap as well, worth pulling the boot back and having a good look and wiggle...

Posted

K11 Micras - are the 1.3s 16v?

 

I have got a hankering for one as starlet replacement

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