Sold Stanky's Geep - fire sale

[matt27]

Great to see progress here, I had problems trying to get my Mini to start last winter, it had been parked up a couple of months and nothing I did would get it going.

 

After spending a load of time replacing parts and rebuilding the carb, I tried some fresh petrol and it fired straight up....oops. Annoying thing was, the petrol wasn't that old and everyone reckoned it would be fine.

[Zelandeth]

I'd probably just aim to find something that fits.  It's not the end of the world to have to alter the pipework around the cylinder to match.  Having a servo added can't be a bad thing either can it?

 

I wouldn't worry about the battery cabling.  Get the starter sorted and then check it, most likely the stuffed starter is pulling way more juice than it should and you'll find that the wiring is more than up to the job with a decent one in place.  Probably why your batteries have been going flat so quick too!

[3VOM]

Echoing what others have said. The commutator in that state will draw lots of current and do FA with it. If you do feel the need for better cables get them from a welding supplier.

[Stanky]

Starter motors picked up tonight - a Lucas 25148Eand a freebie one for what appeared to be a Sherman Tank. It was khaki colour, seized and weighted at least 10kg

 

here they are side-by-side

 

 

 

the green one was overhauled in autumn 1994 apparently

 

 

anyway, its now a bit seized. A bit or research and scrubbing revealed it was a Lucas 25609A from an Austin 1800 or MGB apparently. Solid stuff.

 

 

anyway, so off to the shed for some fixing while my dinner cooked.

 

 

Opened up, the spindle seems a lot cleaner than my old one, no rubbing by the looks of it. Gave it a clean up with some WD40, then the little locating dowel fell out and vanished into the dark corners of the shed floor. That's gone for a while then...

 

 

the magnets seem to be OK are aren't painted brown so thats a good sign. I tightened up the bolts on the bottom end of the can part as they were a bit loose.

 

 

piece of cake.

 

I had a closer look at the commutator end, this seems a bit more 'meaty' than the other one, but the splines are visible still. We'll see.

 

 

Next up, cleaning the gear teeth. These had some black mank on them so gave them a seeing to with carb cleaner and a small screwdriver and rag. They are now better.

 

 

Then i gave the extruded bit that the +ve connects to a slap of copper grease after cleaning it up with a rag and wire brush

 

 

I slid the innards back into the can bit, did the screws up without the benefit of the (still MIA) locating dowel and was proud of my handiwork.

 

Until...

 

whats that?

 

different mounting plates?

 

 

BALLS.

 

how the dickens do you get the plate bit off the rod part? The magnets section seems rigid though is splined, and the other end seems held in with the spring bit and toothed gear which must be held on somehow but I'm buggered if I know how.

 

Any suggestions? The mounting plate holes are different by a good centimetre or so, I need to get the end plate from starter motor #1 to starter motor #2 without borking either of them. What do we reckon?

 

I'll strip down the giant one in due course and see whats causing it to be seized. Might be able to be revived.

[Guest Hooli]

Well that's an embuggerance.

[Mally]

At the spring end of the starter there is a small strong spring circlip. You will be able to see about half the diameter of it.

Large washer, small shaft, circlip between the two. Its just a C spring, no ears on it.

I used to have a clamp device to clamp the gear and big spring tightly, consisted of 2 C washers and 2 bolts.This gives a small gap at the circlip end.

You then attack the spring circlip with a flat screwdriver a few times, stab your hand a few times, and the circlip springs off never to be seen again.

As HBOL, reassembly is opposite, providing you can find the circlip.

 

Before you even think about attempting  it count the number of teeth on the starter pinion, and check shaft length is the same.

[alf892]

To get that end plate off you need a spring compressor for that spring......and then there is a c clip. You can then remove the bendix bit and remove the plate.

Are the teeth the same on the bendix?

[Mally]

Great minds.

 

Google 'Bendix spring compressor tool' 

Few images on there.

[Stanky]

Thanks guys - just had another look and i see what you mean - I can compress one side in the vice but need the proper tool as you say.

 

Does anyone have one they could post to me for this job? Or any of the Solent Shiters got one I could borrow? I checked the shaft length and its the same, the pinion, spring, circlips and spiral drive bit will be swapped over from the one that came off the Geep, as i know it works.

 

What are people's thoughts on the condition of the commutator on this one? Is this excessively worn too?

[AMC Rebel]

 as suddenly discovering you only had the rear brakes working could get a bit exciting.

This actually happened to me in the AMC - and it was.

[Clanger]

At the spring end of the starter there is a small strong spring circlip. You will be able to see about half the diameter of it.

Large washer, small shaft, circlip between the two. Its just a C spring, no ears on it.

I used to have a clamp device to clamp the gear and big spring tightly, consisted of 2 C washers and 2 bolts.This gives a small gap at the circlip end.

You then attack the spring circlip with a flat screwdriver a few times, stab your hand a few times, and the circlip springs off never to be seen again.

As HBOL, reassembly is opposite, providing you can find the circlip.

 

Before you even think about attempting  it count the number of teeth on the starter pinion, and check shaft length is the same.

Do you have to stab yourself on reassembly as well?

[alf892]

No...........you are wiser now.

 

You get a helper and stab them

[Mally]

Thanks guys - just had another look and i see what you mean - I can compress one side in the vice but need the proper tool as you say.

 

Does anyone have one they could post to me for this job? Or any of the Solent Shiters got one I could borrow? I checked the shaft length and its the same, the pinion, spring, circlips and spiral drive bit will be swapped over from the one that came off the Geep, as i know it works.

 

What are people's thoughts on the condition of the commutator on this one? Is this excessively worn too?

 

Commutator looks ok to me.

 

I still have a tool for the job, its with my mini flywheel puller and cone compressor, its in an ammo box......trouble is I don't know where!

 

If all else fails I'll make you one, will need a few measurements though. Give it a couple of days see what develops first.

[Mally]

Do you have to stab yourself on reassembly as well?

 

I stabbed myself with the garage door yesterday....anythings possible.

[bezzabsa]

master cylinder.......Land rover series 3 jobbie ??????? still available and mucho cheapness

[spartacus]

Wow, that looks sore, it's almost a Harry Potter lightning bolt, although I'm sure that doesn't make you feel any better.

[Stanky]

Got thurs morning off work so will pop up to a local oldskool man-in-shed starter motor place to get the pinion gears and mounting plates swapped over from the old one to the new one. Hopefully it'll be a quick job and not too spenner. Report to follow!

[jonny69]

The two-bolt one is Anglia. The three bolt one is Escort. Offer it up, I'm pretty sure the two-bolt one will go straight on. They added the third bolt because the two-bolt one wobbles loose from time to time. As said, check the number of teeth is the same.

[Stanky]

I measured with calipers last night and there was a good 1-2cm difference between the two I thought but won't hurt to offer it up later on. I'll make sure I count the teeth first though!

[Mally]

Yes I thought they were the same, just an extra lug.

Used to pack a block of wood between the starter and sump on the 2 bolt ones.

[Stanky]

Thanks guys - I'll roll about on the drive in the dark later on and see if I can get this one to bolt on.

[tooSavvy]

IIRC an IMP wonk got the Bendix off using an 'old' deep socket [suitable shoulder dia] and angled a side slot in it.

 

So compressing big washer but exposing C-clip.

 

TS

[Stanky]

Right, new one doesn't fit the holes in the block and additionally its a 9-tooth pinion, whereas the original one has a 10-tooth pinion so its off to the man in the shed on thursday morning to swap the mounting plate and pinion gear from the one pulled from the engine onto the shaft (fnarr) of the replacement one I picked up yesterday.

[nigel bickle]

I'd run it up ' on the bench' first, just to make sure it works, without making embarrassing noises!

[bezzabsa]

what he said ^^^^

[mk2_craig]

Aye but make sure it's in a vice first!

[Stanky]

Bench tested it last night, new one runs fine with no untoward noises. I held it down with one hand while I applied 12v with a jump lead with the other. It was 'life affirming' stuff!

[mitsisigma01]

That's the way to do it .....

[The Moog]

Bench tested it last night, new one runs fine with no untoward noises. I held it down with one hand while I applied 12v with a jump lead with the other. It was 'life affirming' stuff!

y no film?

 

if had gone wrong at least could have got £250 from Jeremy Beadle

[Talbot]

£250 from Jeremy Beadle

You are over a decade out of date.