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Zel's Motoring Adventures...Volvo, Renault, Rover, Trabant, Invacar & A Sinclair C5 - Updated 13/11.


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Posted

My "OCD" is kicking in now...

 

 

Tricycle

 

 

The DVLA issue a Driving Licence with category entitlements. It doesn't matter if it is a moped, lorry, car, bus or tractor. It is all the one licence.

 

Body types don't really mean much with regards to licencing. Numbers of wheels, cc, power, power to weight, mass, and seats do (a few other things besides).

 

 

They are not cars, they are tricycles. They might be car-type tricycles, but they aren't cars. It's partly a tax thing, which in turn is a mass/no. of wheels thing. Thow in a few more defined characteristics and in modern type approval terms UNECE / EU, it is a category L5e vehicle.

 

 

There are many, many more vehicles with valid MOTs that are unroadworthy. So much more that number of those Killed/Seriously Injured due to a vehicle defect for vehicles over 40 years-old amounts to a statistically insignificant number. [*if you do the sums you won't even run out of fingers to count]

 

Now as I've found the V5/V5C for my pair of 3-wheelers, here's what they show:

attachicon.gifIMG_20190111_022903_3a.jpg

 

As you can see in particular with the older record. They don't give a toss about the details, just all info they need to take the VED.

 

very interesting, thank you for sharing :)

 

sorry about setting off your OCD! 

 

I noticed one says "Body type: saloon" where as the other says "Body Type: tricycle" whats that about? (well if body type does really mean much, what is wrong with leaving it as invalid vehicle? I was expecting to see some sort of class somewhere on that page that specifically said invalid carriage, im just curious from a purely "lawyer" type point of view, but I do understand the DVLA is about as clear as mud when it comes to trying to make sense of all this sort of crap) 

 

(I guess technically then, a Model 70 would be a convertible* 2 Door Coupe then?  :mrgreen: )

Posted

I noticed one says "Body type: saloon" where as the other says "Body Type: tricycle" whats that about?

Depends who fills the form in when first registering or copying the pre-DVLA record. e.g. random

  • Like 1
Posted

LightBulbFun: im curious for Body type what does your Reliant say? (your the chap who owns the 1963 Reliant that was parked next to TWC at the field of dreams IIRC?)

 

Body Type on my V5c: Tricycle.       

 

Yes, it was my 1961 Reliant Regal MKVI parked next to TWC at the FOD. My car's original registration number was LCM66, issued to the car on its first registration in March 1961. After many years of service and 99,000 miles it was worn out and taken off the road around 1980 by its first owner. A friend of the first owner wanted to acquire the reg. No. to put on his Audi Quattro in 1981, for which the Reliant was made (barely!) roadworthy again and the reg. was duly transferred. The authorities at the time used to use up unused numbers in sequences of similar age i.e. 1963 numbers were considered appropriate in this case, hence the current 'A' suffix.  The V5c correctly states date of manufacture and date of first registration as 10th March 1961.  The original reg. No. has since passed on to a Range Rover, possibly another which I lost track of, and is now on an IVECO diesel.

 

LightBulbFun: because if im understanding everything properly the general rule for invalid carriages is to change them to Trike, but I always think of Trike as like what Bub owns (ie 3 wheeled open air thing with little or no body work)

 

Eddie Honda's later post sums this up pretty well.

 

LightBulbFun: and if im reading the DVLA site correctly you have to be 21 or older to drive such Motor tricycle on a Car licence....

 

This caused a fair bit of fuss and inconvenience when DVLA re-wrote the rules and classifications a few years ago.  As I'm well past 21, I did not follow how, or if, the DVLA did anything to resolve this anomaly.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the info :)

 

its a shame to hear your reliant got plate raped as they say, I hope your able to get its original plate back eventually :)

Posted

Thanks for the info :)

 

its a shame to hear your reliant got plate raped as they say, I hope your able to get its original plate back eventually :)

 

The car has carried the 'A' suffix plate for 37 years, considerably longer than it had the original number, and was on it when I bought the car as a very rough project in 1992.  I do not therefore feel any need to chase the original number but would find it amusing to park next to the IVECO one day  :-D .

 

Sorry Zel for the slight thread highjack.

  • Like 2
Posted

The DVLA vehicle enquiries webpage (for TWC) refers to the wheelplan as "Three wheel."  I checked my Reliant's V5c and the same term is used.  

 

Edit:  Actually, the way DVLA presents it is "3-WHEEL"

 

Yes, wheelplan is three wheel, but body type is trike.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the feedback folks, I'll look to get that filled in and on its way to the DVLA to be updated as soon as practical.

 

Interesting that TP is showing as "untaxed" rather than on SORN, given I included the necessary paperwork to declate that along with the V62 as instructed in their guidance notes.  Given that it's looking increasingly like an MOT isn't required for this set of administrative stuff I'll probably just get it "taxed" and add it to the insurance (for all of the £50 odd a year that costs), then once she's roadworthy I can just start the test runs rather than have to faff about at that point - hoping it will also work as a very effective motivational aid to kick me into getting stuff actually done, knowing then that it's only my own to do list between now and the first test drives.

 

It might only be a trip across town to my MOT station, but it's a trip across Milton Keynes - which means pretty much whatever route I take there will be at least one stretch of 70mph dual carriageway and several major, busy roundabouts involved!  Being able to leisurely putter around the housing estates in 20 and 30mph zones for a bit sounds far less stressful than an acid test like that...

  • Like 2
Posted

So let's get what was meant to be yesterday evening's update up before I really get stuck into anything today.

 

It turned out on going back into the garage yesterday morning that all was not well with my fibreglass repair.  The majority of the resin was not longer attached to the car, instead being in a puddle on the floor.  What was left on the car was still sticky.  It hadn't set.  Not sure if this was down to a problem with my hardener mixing ratio or if it has just gone off.  The hardener in particular was quite old.  Ambient termperatures being quite low probably haven't helped even though our garage is reasonably warm.  So I mixed up another batch of resin using some fresh hardener in *definitely* sufficient quantities and gave it another going over.  Checking back an hour later it appeared that the repair was at least superficially solid.  I'll make a point of trying to "peel" it off the body today to ensure that it's set all the way through rather than just forming a solid crust on the outside.  No major loss if I need to do it again, just irritating.  I knew though that there was going to be a pretty steep leaning curve working with this stuff so it's not a huge surprise.

 

Have been pondering the dash again.  It really is quite a state.  In addition to the gaping split in the top that I've bolted a panel over, somebody has obviously drilled additional holes to repair the fixings for the interior light at some point, so you can see daylight through there too.

 

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The spare dash is utterly filthy but the visible surface is clear of any cracks or splits.  It also lacks the unnecessary gear selector void present on the dash in the car presently.  Likewise it was never apparently fitted with the "Passenger carrying is forbidden" plate that both TP and TWC came with, though obviously that's trivial to move over.

 

post-21985-0-29887000-1547206331_thumb.jpg

 

It's wobbly at the moment because the strengthening bar isn't attached to the top.  The whole thing has no inherent structural regidity on its own, it relys entirely to things bolted to it and being bolted to the car for that.

 

post-21985-0-29176200-1547206407_thumb.jpg

 

Going to need a LOT of cleaning before I consider using it though!  Still slightly torn on whether to change that or not.  The existing dash IS coming out at some point so I can sort out the butchered wiring behind it, so it would seem sensible to consider it at that point.

 

Speaking of interior cosmetics, I'd really like to be able to get this out.

 

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However to get that out I need to get the panel behind the sun visor out, and the screws which I think hold that in place have stripped heads.  I'm assuming it's that pair of screws that hold it in, rather than it being tethered to one of the million bolts behind it which I assume are involved in holding the roof on.

 

post-21985-0-04567100-1547206653_thumb.jpg

 

Sadly have quite a few "useful" things I need to get done today so not sure how much time I'll have to dedicate to car things, but we'll see how things go.

  • Like 4
Posted

Yesterday we had the V5 in hand and by the evening (not least thanks to folks on here) I had figured out exactly what the sequence of events I needed to undertake to get the administrative side of things sorted out for TP's return to the road.

 

Step 1: Fill in the corrected data in section 7 on the V5.

 

Wheelplan/Body Type changed to 3-Wheel/Tricycle.

Engine capacity changed to 493.

Engine number added.

Tax class changed to Historic.

 

Step 2: Go back to the Post Office and have them actually change the tax class.

 

Given that the tax is then of course zero rated, and the teller there today confirmed that the V112 indeed was as good as an MOT certificate as far as their system was concerned, there was no reason not to just tax it I could see.  Not as though I'll be taking it near the road until I'm convinced it's in a roadworthy state.

 

So for the first time since at least 2001 (when the previous tax appears to have expired) TP is now officially taxed.

 

post-21985-0-14565300-1547236887_thumb.jpg

 

The Post Office have retained the V5 and will forward it to the DVLA directly to arrange for the updated data above to be input on the system.

 

Step 3: Ring up Hagerty to sort insurance.  Yes, I know this technically should have been step 2, but it seemed pointless if I was going to have to wait for further admin from the tax side of things.  So the insurance was put in place about half an hour after the tax.  For all the £50 it costs for the year.

 

While I was on the phone I've temporarily taken the van off cover given she's laid  up until the salt is well and truly gone from the roads so actually wound up with a nice little refund heading back into our bank account.

 

At this point that means the only thing standing between TP and the Queen's Highway is me getting the car into a sensibly roadworthy state.

 

This should be very effective in providing me with a good incentive to just get on with it I think.

 

Yes, the first test will of course be captured on video.  So when the car self-destructs after thirty feet you can all laugh at me.

 

Last task for today was to reattach the nearside gutter.  My original plan had been to use rivets to do this, however this was foiled by my not being able to get the rivet gun in close enough.  So I had to make do with self tapping screws for now.

 

post-21985-0-43376500-1547237271_thumb.jpg

 

post-21985-0-20024600-1547237289_thumb.jpg

 

These are mostly there to hold everything in place while the sealant under the gutter sets to be honest.  I'll pick up some nice little pan head bolts to take the place of the original screws and fit under the infill strip rather than looking like a horrific bodge as it does just now.  This was something I had to come up with rapidly as I didn't discover the rivets weren't going to work until after I'd got sealant already spread over everything.

 

Speaking of things setting, I'm glad to report that the nearside front corner of the bodywork now appears to actually be solid.  I'll give the inside of the panel a going over in the same area over the weekend hopefully, and then move on to m aking a better job of the offside than my first horrific attempt there.

 

I'll also grab some paint at some point so I can start thinking about that side of things - though realistically the whole thing needs repainting end to end...A task for the future there I think.

 

Feels like quite a bit of progress today though.  I'll bet nobody thought at this time last year that TP would be this close to the road today.

Posted

Excellent!

 

I think that trim panel is only held on by the sunvisor if I remember rightly. I ditched mine quite a while ago as it was shredding itself all over the place. It also doesn't seem to fit now I've got a headliner fitted...

  • Like 1
Posted

Just don't rush. I'm awaiting some experimental transmission parts to hopefully ensure TWC can actually get up hills.

  • Like 1
Posted

No real rush on anything to be honest, not beyond being determined to get to more than two car shows this year so wanting to start planning some out.

 

At least hill climbing isn't a massive issue for local runs here as things are relatively flat.

 

Unless I suddenly become an order of magnitude more efficient it's likely to be next year before I get around to the Grand Invacar Tour, so should hopefully have plenty of time for bug fixing between now and then.

 

My plan for the trim above the windscreen is to get it out, strip off the fabric covering and repaint it with a hammered or crackle finish black paint.  That should look like it was as the factory intended and be easier to keep clean.

 

Speaking of trim and such... anyone got the foggiest idea what this white plastic thing is for?

 

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It's free to rotate, and as such doesn't seem to actually serve any useful purpose other than being something else to rattle.

 

 

Realised earlier today that there really aren't many photos of the C5 here, so here are a couple from when I got back from our trip out today.

 

It really is incredibly scruffy.

 

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Then there's the spares C5 which lives behind the shed.  Ironically the body shell on that one is pretty tidy, whereas the one I'm using doesn't have a surface that's not scratched, dinged or otherwise beat to Hell and back.

 

post-21985-0-67021300-1547246596_thumb.jpg

 

It however has quite a few bits missing, the electrics aren't in too good shape and the instrument pod doesn't work (honestly shocked that the one in my "daily" works properly as they're renowned for being fragile).  Plus it gets worked pretty hard bouncing around the MK Redways with a husky attached to it, plus being scruffy makes it less of a potential theft target.

 

Four mods I'd like to make at some point.

 

[] Disc brake on the front wheel.  The rear drum can just about be called adequate for the normal propulsion methods - but it's about as much use trying to stop a husky in full mush from 35mph as a chocolate teapot.  The parking brake is also hilariously ineffective - and it's really unnerving when it starts rolling off while you're halfway on board.

 

[] Gears.  The bike part is a single speed job, and it means there's a really awkward void where you're going slightly too slow for the motor but are pedalling like crazy.  A "crawler" gear would be handy for moving off up hill too as it's not exactly light.

 

[] Variable speed motor drive.  Currently it's just a button operated by your left thumb which switches a big chunky relay, and is geared to cruise at 15mph.  So low speed stuff is basically pedal power only or cycling the motor on/off which puts a lot of strain on the gearbox.

 

[] Battery upgrade.  It just runs a bog standard type 030 35Ah car battery at present.  The original Sinclair one (made by Oldham for Sinclair if I remember right) was a deep cycle one - but they're kinda hard to find in that size nowadays.  I was worried it would die an early death in this use, but it's got four years and around 500 miles on it without showing any real signs of capacity loss.  Real world range is 15-20 miles.

 

It's entirely possible to fit 60-70Ah of LiPo battery under the boot floor, this would be less than half the weight of the old lead-acid lump, and combined with the more user friendly discharge characteristics can give a real world range of 50 miles plus.

 

Downside?  The £600 or so the batteries would cost!

 

As it is though, it earns it's keep and I greatly enjoy using it.

 

For all they had a reputation for being shoddily made, this one was dragged out of a damp barn where it had been since the early 90s, and the only repairs I've had to do was to replace the commutation diode across the motor relay, a brake cable, a set of tyres plus some very basic bodywork repair.  That's in spite of the beating it takes from our cycle paths which are like the surface of the Moon in many places.  Nothing has even fallen off it yet.

 

Posted

this is very cool to see!

 

both the Model 70 developments and the C5 stuff, I wonder if anyone ever made a game about/featuring the C5 on a ZX Spectrum  :mrgreen:

 

TPA is still showing as untaxed on the website im guessing it will take a day or 2 to update there, took the opertunity to grab a screen shot of that page as it will be changing soon for the first time since that website went live :)

 

(I wonder what the post office chap/chapess thought about Taxing/doing admin on an invacar  :mrgreen: )

Posted

 I wonder if anyone ever made a game about/featuring the C5 on a ZX Spectrum  :mrgreen:

 

C5 Clive

 

Posted

Why, oh why, did I know that you'd know, DD?

 

Because I'm special?

 

A rough approximation of a C5 also appears in certain versions of the arcade classic Paperboy (Amstrad CPC version shown)

 

post-24583-0-58145500-1547286046_thumb.png

  • Like 2
Posted

Special's the word!  This place, etc.

 

Just told Lady Grumpius about your C5 Husky method, Zel.  I think she was amused.  To me, it's a stroke of genius.

  • Like 1
Posted

Of course the only logical step forward with a car that needs a few jobs finished before being roadworty is to pull more bits off it isn't it?

 

Basically that trim panel above the windscreen was bugging me.

 

Using a really decent screwdriver I managed to get one of the screws out, the other was having none of it though - and eventually stripped the head.  Fine...Drilled the sucker out, pulled the panel away...and immediately was showered with what appears to be the remains of a (thankfully vacant) mouse nest.

 

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Out with the vacuum cleaner...which I just realised is almost colour co-ordinated with the car...

 

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Recommendation for this little vaccum cleaner...We must have bought it in the very early 90s, and it's definitely not lived a pampered existence - and still works better than the fancy Dyson modern nonsense in the house.

 

Much better, I can actually see what I'm doing now.

 

post-21985-0-41884700-1547330883_thumb.jpg

 

I'd really like to get the windscreen demister vent assembly off so I can make sure it's not full of rodent nests as well and the heater control box - however after a search of most of the garage I finally ascertained that the bolts are 1/8W Whitworth - and I have *one* spanner that size...and I need two, because as with everything else on this car, the nuts at the other end of the bolts aren't captive so just bloody turn as soon as you start trying to undo them.  Yay.  Fine, that will be a task for tomorrow/soon then.

 

A secondary reason for wanting to get the vent assembly off is to generally improve the degree to which the box is sealed, helping make sure that as much air gets directed down onto the windscreen where it's needed - as it is just now it can leak out in most directions pretty freely.

 

I turned next to the messy gutter attachment from yesterday...and very quickly realised that the bolts I'd planned to use this have far too big heads for this job.

 

post-21985-0-40800500-1547331152_thumb.jpg

 

Fine, I'll have a dig through the Screwfix catalogue and pick up something more appropriate tomorrow.  This is one of those jobs that has just been determined to fight me it seems.

 

In other news, on the list of "actually sorting stuff I bodged when I first got the car to get it going" I've now bolted the fuse box to the bulkhead. 

 

Got a few things I can do tomorrow if time permits, especially as a little care package turned up this morning.

 

post-21985-0-63141300-1547331413_thumb.jpg

 

In there is a fuel gauge sender, a new air filter (finally!) and one of the later Curtis/Veglia fuel gauges.  Or at least I'm assuming they were later purely based on the appearance.  So will get the air filter fitted, will connect up the gauge sender and see what happens.  If the guage responds as expected I may well just leave things as they are, failing that I'll drop the new one in.  To be honest the addition of a low fuel warning light can't be a bad thing.

 

Having finally got the trim panel above the windscreen off I was able to remove the rotten fabric and foam from it.  The adhesive is still well and truly stuck to the backing though.

 

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I'll see if I can find anything that will dissolve that, failing that I'll probably stick a carbide polishing mop on the angle grinder and hit it with that.  It will then get a coat of black paint and be reinstalled.  The sun visor is absolutely disgusting as well, so it will be getting given a good scrub to see if I can remove some of the ingrained grime. 

 

I know the black finish won't technically be correct, but it will look fine I reckon.  Plus I will probably be making a few modifications from the factory spec in the interior department anyhow.  I want to use the car, and it's the bit I'll see the most...so I want to make it a pleasant place to be.   Hence the Xantia seat.  Beyond that I'll probably add some form of lining to the inner part of the doors and the roof.  Probably dark grey cord carpet will be used for that.  Main targets there will mainly be to reduce the number of hard surfaces that sound can bounce off.  I'll probably stick a bit of Dynamat or similar on the outer side of the transmission hatch as I imagine that's where 99% of the racket at speed comes from.

Who knows, I might actually do something useful soon...

Posted

Looking good.

 

I'm working by the principle that every little task, however small is a piece of the larger puzzle that leads to the vehicle being reliable in early days of reuse; the small tasks not being done will lead to issues down the road, so everything being pulled apart and fettled isn't necessarily a bad thing after a long lay-up.

 

Phil

  • Like 2
Posted

I think it's fair to say that the old air filter was "due for replacement" on this occasion...

 

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Much better.

 

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The rest of the day's tasks came under the heading of "unexciting but important" given the steadily approaching point at which I'll want to venture beyond the end of the driveway.

 

The driver's seat still had the seat belt buckle and pretensioner assembly from its previous life in a Xantia attached.  This was annoying in that I repeatedly sat on it when climbing aboard and that it got in the way of the seat belt.  So that got removed (anyone need a spare for an S2 Xantia?).  This meant that it was time to remove the original mangled seat belt buckle though - which I was staggered to find actually unbolted without too much protest. 

 

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Obviously that was destined only for the bin!

 

Nice new old stock eye bolt was installed...

 

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Which finally allowed me to clip the seatbelt into place correctly.

 

post-21985-0-06909000-1547402752_thumb.jpg

 

The seatbelt now in a functional state I figured it made sense to sort the seat itself next.  The main issue I had was that it wobbled because the clamps I'd used to secure the seat to the original framework were slightly too big - so I ran out of thread on the bolts before everything was properly secured.  It couldn't actually *go* anywhere, just wobbled by a couple of millimetres.

 

I suddenly had the brainwave telling me that I didn't actually need to replace the clamps, instead just stick a few washers under the securing nuts to act as spacers, giving me the extra 1.8" or so of thread I needed.  Worked perfectly, and the seat is now more securely fastened in place than the original was I reckon.

 

Knowing I was done with messing for that for now I drilled a couple of holes in and reattached the trim that used to be on the side of it, hiding the somewhat ugly mounting hardware from the nearside.

 

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Having a seat that doesn't go "clonk" alarmingly every time you sit down and having a working seatbelt definitely seem things it was worth ticking off the to do list.

 

The eagle eyed among you might have spotted in the above photo that the offside interior door release has also been refitted.

 

Nothing I've thrown at it so far has any impact on the glue from the sun visor trim panel, so looks like that will need to be removed by brute force and an andle grinder.

 

The absolutely disgusting sun visor (I'm not kidding, it was gross)...

 

post-21985-0-53443000-1547403242_thumb.jpg

 

...Cleaned up quite nicely after a trip through my "parts washer" overnight.

 

post-21985-0-43310600-1547403278_thumb.jpg

 

So that's ready for refitting once the panel has been cleaned up.

Posted

very cool stuff :)

 

did you figure if the seat still slides side to side like the original setup does? :) (I Think the original also went up and down but im not 100% sure on that)

 

im curious how heavy is the seat compared to the original? I could imagine in something this light, that a heavy seat could make a noticeable difference LOL

Posted

I think it should still be able to move as it's directly clamped onto the same base the old seat was attached to.

 

Weight wise this one isn't too bad as it's not got any electrical nonsense involved. I was slightly surprised by how heavy what came out was to be honest, though it may well have been waterlogged for all I knew...

 

The electrically adjustable heated ones (as in the Activa) on the other hand weigh about the same as an original Mini I reckon, so wouldn't be such a good choice!

  • Like 1
Posted

The originals only go up and down if you take bolts out and move them (which I had to do after fitting the headliner as it stole headroom).

  • Like 1
Posted

The electrically adjustable heated ones (as in the Activa) on the other hand weigh about the same as an original Mini I reckon, so wouldn't be such a good choice!

 

I'd like the contrast between the basic nature of the rest of the car, and a heated, electric seat!

Posted
Sometimes you have to take what look superficially like a few steps backward to move forward.

 

You know that thing I did bolting the seat in place yesterday?  Yep, went and pulled it out again today.

 

To be fair I knew I was going to be doing that, I've got a list of things on the whiteboard which basically come under the heading of "stuff I bodged when I was wanting to just get the car going" and "stuff I couldn't get at earlier."

 

The transmission access hatch needed to come off.  Of course there was the obligatory *one* screw that wouldn't come out.  There's always one.

 

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Out with the drill again.  Then half an hour of very, very carefully peeling the gasket off as it was well and truly stuck to the bulkhead.

 

So there were a few things I wanted this off for.  

 

Firstly, the offside engine mount.  I'd only managed to get one bolt into it when the engine went in, and the nut wouldn't do up fully because the bolt was partly cross threaded.  Access was awkward from the back of the car, but a doddle when approaching from inside the car.  Note to self: next time you need to change one, do it from that side.

 

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While I was back there I rerouted the throttle cable properly through the eye on the gearbox which has helped stop it sticking.

 

While rummaging around I found two battery clamps, so have replaced the missing one.

 

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Am I right in thinking you're still missing one, DW?

 

I've also been pondering my seat attachment setup and reckon that I can improve on my original solution...which worked but was exceedingly inelegant.  I can do better.

 

Other reason I wanted that cover off was to get better access for routing the rear axle brake lines.  Once that's done everything will be getting buttoned back up.

Posted

Indeed I am, and it looks like I'll have to change the battery soon. Might be an idea to upgrade from the ratchet strap...

 

No desperate rush though. Plenty of other things to be getting on with!

  • Like 1
Posted

seeing how close she is to the road, have you ordered/thought about tyres? :)

 

Also she is showing as taxed now Woo! :)

 

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Posted

She's taxed and insured...tyres will definitely be high on the list in the coming weeks.

 

The form has been sent to the DVLA as well so hopefully the correct data will show on that enquiry soon as well. I do wonder if there's a way to update the manufacturer field though. I'm assuming the AC (Electric) thing is a glitch dating back to the computerisation of the old records as it seems to widespread.

 

Hoping that I'll have a bit of uninterrupted time tomorrow to crack on with the brakes.

 

Today was maddening in that every time I got started doing anything I had to down tools. And to do something else for somebody.

 

Suffice to say, the closeness to being able to make the first test - even for all of the five hundred yards or so round our block - is making the waiting torture!

 

Question: I've been meaning to dust off my YouTube account for a while now. While I can't promise anything close to the levels of professionalism in presentation we're used to by Mr. Wobbler, is there any interest in a sort of video tour/status update of the fleet? I don't want to feel I'm just jumping on the bandwagon as it were (I first bought stuff for this before I moved south - in December 2013!), but if video content beyond the odd dashcam or ten second clip is something folks would like to see, I can see what I can do.

 

Not sure live in garage stuff would ever really work where the Invacar is concerned simply because it's so small you tend to inevitably be in the way. Could see about something like that for some of the jobs to be done on the van though.

 

DW: you need a pair of battery clamps or just the one? Let me know and I'll stick them in a package for you. While I think of it too, hub caps? Pretty sure all the ones I have are for 12" wheels which I lack...so they're yours FOC if you want a pair.

  • Like 3
Posted

Yeah I saw the post where you taxed her I was just stalking the DVLA site until it said so :mrgreen:

 

im definitely interested in youtube videos :)

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