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2001 y reg fiesta 1.25- talk to me!


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Posted

One has popped up nearby for peanuts..

 

116k with mot til aug.

 

What should i look for, or indeed should i be looking at all?

Posted

A Non working heater.. And rusty inner and outer sills and rear arches and a bit more rust for good measure.

  • Like 1
Posted

Rust, rust and more rust! The engines are great though, My mums old one was as quick as fook.

Posted

As above, rust, rust, rust.  Rear arches and sills are favourite.

 

Also knocking/rattling from front suspension which will be worn wishbones, they do go through them but it's not a big deal.

 

The 1.25 is a nice, revvy and reliable little engine but not very tolerant of neglect or the wrong oil so it's worth checking how much is in it and if it sounds rough or rattly from the top end.  

 

Other than that, not a lot really.  Dead simple and pretty tough little cars which are quite fun to drive.

  • Like 2
Posted

Nippy little cars with the 1.25 zetec.

 

Rust rust and rust. If its bad on the sills and rear arches you can bet your bottom dollar it's also gone on the inner sills, also floors prone to corrosion. It's likely to have seen welding at that age so long as the sills aren't a patchwork of Mot type plated over plates repair, use you eyes. Round filler cap also, once its gone here its finished as dropping the tank to weld isn't worthwhile.

 

Engine is bulletproof, timing belt is every 100k. Make sure its had the right 5w30 put in it. Can be prone to cutting out at junctions - usually the idle control valve, cheap to replace, usually comes up ok with some carb cleaner.

 

A bit of noise from release bearing on clutch is usual, only a problem if its starting to get intrusive.

 

Suspension easy and cheap to fix. Usual seized sheared bolts etc but cheap at least.

 

Can't think if anything else - mainly to corrosion that says whether you will get another year out if it at MOT time

Posted

Nippy little cars with the 1.25 zetec.

 

Rust rust and rust. If its bad on the sills and rear arches you can bet your bottom dollar it's also gone on the inner sills, also floors prone to corrosion. It's likely to have seen welding at that age so long as the sills aren't a patchwork of Mot type plated over plates repair, use you eyes. Round filler cap also, once its gone here its finished as dropping the tank to weld isn't worthwhile.

 

Engine is bulletproof, timing belt is every 100k. Make sure its had the right 5w30 put in it. Can be prone to cutting out at junctions - usually the idle control valve, cheap to replace, usually comes up ok with some carb cleaner.

 

A bit of noise from release bearing on clutch is usual, only a problem if its starting to get intrusive.

 

Suspension easy and cheap to fix. Usual seized sheared bolts etc but cheap at least.

 

Can't think if anything else - mainly to corrosion that says whether you will get another year out if it at MOT time

Posted

Timing belt costs around £200 at a garage.

 

Have a look inside oil filler cap - a bit of "rustle" from the top end is permissible, knocking from the bottom end is not. Plenty for sale with knackered cranks.

 

Dripping coolant from under the car will be a failed seal on the thermostat housing - dont buy a new one, take the old one off clean and refit using that black coloured gasket stuff from wynn's.

 

They rot at the rear -arches and sills. Even tatty cars with lots of ticket are not worth much more than bridge money.

Posted

Forgot to add we have had ours for three years in that time I have fitted brake shoes, thermostat housing, heater valve, pollen filter and air filter - I got hold of a used k&n air filter for £10.

 

I changed the oil and filter every year and the coolant once. The arches have been worked on by me and I have let in a repair on the n/s sill - sorry but I don't do "patches".

 

Car is a 51 plate ghia but has only covered 55k - it is overdue for a timing belt, however I am playing roulette, not sure I can justify lashing out around £200 on a £500 car.

Posted

Sounds like its overdue a belt at 116k, and just the usual old car stuff.

 

Now to consider..

 

Cheers chaps

Posted

Make sure spare wheels there. It's hung under the floor, on a wire hanger thing. Has a habit of disappearing in the night.

Posted

Anyone mentioned rust yet?

 

Heater Control valves are fragile but cheap (plagued the Puma too). No hot air but plenty of coolant? HCV time, and genuine Ford ones (about £25iirc) DO outlast cheapy ones from ECP (from experience!)

  • Like 1
Posted

Make sure spare wheels there. It's hung under the floor, on a wire hanger thing. Has a habit of disappearing in the night.

True and every bit of weight helps with the weighing in..

Posted

Anyone mentioned rust yet?

 

Heater Control valves are fragile but cheap (plagued the Puma too). No hot air but plenty of coolant? HCV time, and genuine Ford ones (about £25iirc) DO outlast cheapy ones from ECP (from experience!)

Maybe one or two folks..

 

Noted re heater valve

Posted

Occasional electric issue, usually a cruddy earth somewhere and quick to sort. If the rear wiper isn't working, clean the tailgate contacts and slam it before condemning the motor as that usually gets it going again.

 

Wishbones bushes - my 2000 Zetec used to knock them out annually but driving flat out over speed humps didn't help!

 

Anyone else mentioned rust??

Posted

was the 1.25 zetec engine actually Designed by Kawasaki ? 

Posted

was the 1.25 zetec engine actually Designed by Kawasaki ?

 

I think it was Yamaha.

Posted

I had a 1.4 16v on an R plate and when the clutch went, it wasn't cheap

Posted

Thermostats.

Also, if it's auto, the gearbox is fucking shit - mum had one that went through three gearboxes in 65k.

Posted

Don't be put off - they are nippy, nice to drive and economical.

 

Just don't pay too much and know when to bale out.

Posted

Yeah I had a one a couple of years ago, to be honest it was a cracking little car, would cruise on the motorway nicely, did 40mpg easily enough, wasn't too slow, they handle nice. They are a nice drive for a little car.

 

Find a nice one and you will be a happy chappy.

Posted

Don't be put off - they are nippy, nice to drive and economical.

 

Just don't pay too much and know when to bale out.

Bank account says fix the polo;)

 

3mot in one month,i must be mad!

Posted

Oh yeah despite easily sorted niggles it was a hoot! I would have another any day (if not too rusty!)

Posted

Don't be put off - they are nippy, nice to drive and economical.

 

Just don't pay too much and know when to bale out.

As above - know when to bale out. There's loads of them so its rarely worth welding up a rotter. The final straw for mine was a multitude of holes in the floor and the bulkhead. It would have cost an arm and a leg to weld it up properly. I don't think it rots any quicker than a Corsa etc though.

Posted

What is the one you have been offered like?

It would have appeared to have been selt!

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