Best Disco in town?

[Rocket88]

Any advise ref which model is best for reliability [snigger] ........must sup the devil's own..............

[scruff]

Any of the Tdis. They are much of a muchness now considering how old they are. Auto box marginally more reliable but makes for a unrushed drive and drink more dizzel. Try and find one that's been owned by a enthusiast sort but avoid anything that's been offroaded if you want a easy life. They all rot, they all piss water in and oil out to varying degrees, but generally are good value for money as you won't find anything else which will seat up to seven, do 30mpg and tow 3.5 ton (not at the same time lolz) 

[I_am_Diesel]

Avoid the Disco 2, the chassis tends to rot quicker than the earlier models.

[John F]

All Discos will fuck you over at some point with respect to reliability... they're a Rover product, after all.

 

Disco 1s suffer from severe body rot to the front inner wings, sills, boot floors and rear body crossmembers. Water leaking through sunroofs and rear doors is commonplace.

 

You're unlikely to find an early 2.0 T-series Mpi variant as they were dog-slow & never sold well. The 200 TDi engine is pretty reliable although a bit harsh, sloppy gearchange from the LT77 gearbox not unusual, the 300 TDi is more refined but less bombproof, and can suffer from airlocks in the cooling system because LR placed the thermostat housing higher up than the header tank.for some dropped-bollock of a reason. Crunching 2nd gear from the R380 gearbox is common, The ubiquitous V8 is as reliable as usual, but also just as thirsty, LPG is an option but underslung tanks can restrict the vehicle's performance off-road.

 

The body rot was cured in the Disco 2, but replaced with galloping chassis rot. TD5 engines are A LOT more complex and fiddly to work on.

 

Disco 3s. etc. weigh as much as the moon but are less useful than the moon in a real-life scenario. Best avoided unless you're a school-run mum or footballer's wife.

[gdhaydock]

If you buy a disco 1, you'll either need to own a welder or know one ....

 

200/300 TDIs are reliable if looked after. Budget for 22-27mpg. 30+ only achievable if sitting at 55mph

 

If you buy a disco 2, the above comment still applies, and you'll need a bottomless wallet for the electronic witchcraft and complicated engine

 

Disco 3 /4 - forget it unless you have a bottomless wallet

[Asimo]

^^^^ Why not a P38 Range Rover? Couldn't be worse than all of the negatives above could it?

[scruff]

Well they don't really rust...

[John F]

Sorn Me, on 16 Dec 2014 - 1:49 PM, said:Sorn Me, on 16 Dec 2014 - 1:49 PM, said:

^^^^ Why not a P38 Range Rover? Couldn't be worse than all of the negatives above could it?

 

Yes. Yes it could.

 

 

TBF, the negatives are only half of the story. Disco 1s can rack up impressive mileages... we've taken my 170,000-mile 1997 300 TDi on two 2,000 mile return trips from Yorkshire to Austria in the middle of winter, and it'll be going again this coming January. They also manage to combine comfortable road manners with very high capability as off-roaders.

 

Definitely recommended, but I second gdhaydock's (Zippy's) comments about having or knowing a welder.

[Rusty_Rocket]

I pretty much agree with all of the above.

 

I must say though, I'm still chuffed with my (£500) Disco 200TDi.  It's still going strong after 3 years of hard work.  It returns a genuine 30mpg- that is through all sorts of driving; I don't nurse it particularly.

It has never been welded.  It will need some in the future, but it still has the original boot floor, sills and inner wings (the usual trouble spots) and has just gone through an MoT with no advisories.

It never needs much.  I give it fresh oil every 6/7k.. umm and that's about it..

 

My point is, the original Disco' was the best.  It's still nice to drive and as long as you keep on top of the rot/ find a decent one, you'll have a dependable workhorse for life!

 

 

[catsinthewelder]

Ms C loves the ex-wobbler 200tdi so it'll be staying here until it drops to bits.  I drive anything else I can scrounge the keys to in preference but I suppose it could be worse.

[dollywobbler]

Oh good! I hadn't really heard much from you about the Wobbly Disco, so glad it is proving popular. I do miss it. Some aspects of it. That silver one above is just gorgeous! Unwelded? Remarkable.

[trigger]

A lady on one of these Facebook for sale pages was recently selling a 52 plate Disco TD5 5 door with 106k for £1000 as the head gasket had blown, I was half tempted as it seemed like very good value, even if the head needed work?

[dollywobbler]

Problem is, the TD5s can be utter cocks to work on, and develop all manner of shitty problems. Like oil leaking into the wiring loom via the injector harness. This then kills the ECU. In fact, one chap I spoke to had seen one where oil was leaking out of the foglights! That said, my neighbour's is up to 260,000 miles now - though he chucks money at it endlessly.

[warninglight]

TD5 head work is the scary bit! They're face hardened so can't really be skimmed when they do go (and they go a lot, given they're located to the block with plastic dowels, which melt if it gets a bit hot!

 

I have my 2004 TD5 manual, bought it in July and put something like 6k on it now, including some greenlanes and muddy fields and it's not missed a beat, other than the cat getting blocked up in the exhaust, but that's not something the earlier ones have anyway.

 

The later 15P TD5 engine is supposed to be better than the earlier 10P. Not sure when they changed!

[dollywobbler]

If you own a TD5, keep a religious eye on the oil level. If it starts rising, the head is probably leaking diesel into the sump, which eventually causes 'rev to death' engine destruction. Nice!

[skoda_norman]

I had a Disco 2. It was my first venture into 4x4 ownership and it could well be my last. Admittedly we weren't very aware of what we were buying but in the short time we owned it (6 months) it spent 2 months off the road with various problems. In that time I changed the air compressor, then had coil springs fitted, changed a ball joint, replaced the rear widow wiper motor and changed the ECU harness. However it was the completely rotten chassis that made me get rid. I've never been brave enough to calculate how much it cost me! 

 

However, I really did love it. The TD5 sounded great. It pulled like a train and despite its size it was a comfortable and commendable road companion with go-anywhere capability and generous all round practicality. 

 

Would I own another? Yes I would, but I'd make sure I had enough money to buy a decent one and enough money thereafter to keep it in good working condition.

 

 

 

[skoda_norman]

Oh and its genuinely (IMO) the best looking of all the Discoverys.

[dollywobbler]

Oh and its genuinely (IMO) the best looking of all the Discoverys.

 

Nonsense! Your own photo clearly shows that the 200Tdi is the best of the lot. Mk2 Transit snout FTW. Better than looking like a facelifted Metrocab.

[twosmoke300]

Pah , I'm not a disco fan at all. Each model has its own big problems. Hilux is the sensible choice

[John F]

twosmoke300, on 16 Dec 2014 - 6:32 PM, said:twosmoke300, on 16 Dec 2014 - 6:32 PM, said:

Pah , I'm not a disco fan at all. Each model has its own big problems. Hilux is the sensible choice

 

So why comment on a Discovery thread?

[cort16]

What about the v8s? I've seen a a few disco 2 s with the 3.9v8 and LPG for decent money that's tempted me a bit.

[dollywobbler]

Truth is that those 4-litre V8s don't seem very keen on LPG. I'm not sure what they did to them, as the same engine in the Mk1 Disco seems pretty much ok. Was it about the time that they removed one lot of head bolts? It's the only D2 a specialist pal of mine will tolerate for his own use - non-LPG and he just lives with the horrific thirst. 

[scruff]

I actually like the Td5 albeit in Defender flavour. A lot of the problems are no worse than any other diesel engine of the era and certainly do not affect every single one.

The Disco 2 is a good vehicle, usual LR problems aside, but the chassis rot is a serious issue and will kill a lot of them over the next few years. Though Richards Chassis are now doing galvanised replacements - I reckon a D2, with galvy undercrackers and either a rebuilt Tdi or a new V8 under the bonnet would be good 'durable car' territory. I'm not going to do it though as I much prefer my Range Rover classic.

[scruff]

Truth is that those 4-litre V8s don't seem very keen on LPG. I'm not sure what they did to them, as the same engine in the Mk1 Disco seems pretty much ok. Was it about the time that they removed one lot of head bolts? It's the only D2 a specialist pal of mine will tolerate for his own use - non-LPG and he just lives with the horrific thirst. 

 

They are fine if they have a decent sequential injection gas system which is kept well serviced - as well as the engine having shit hot plugs, leads etc.

 

It's not really the same engine at all bar the swept volume, the ignition and EFi are totally different along with the block (crossbolted) pistons and conrods (longer rods, shorter pistons) crank, oil pump and all sorts of little bits and bobs.

[Ian_Fearn]

I've got a 300tdi in a Defender so I can only comment on the engine/manual transmission combo.

 

Basically, its a great engine with genuine 30mpg.

 

1. Cambelts need changing more frequently than your average modern but its an easy job made easier if you remove the rad and do the coolant every 3 years. Loads easier than any transverse engine car this side of a mk3 Cavalier 1.6.

 

2. I've found water pumps unreliable. You must buy genuine/Bearmach, these last well. Anything Britpart in my experience is rubbish.

 

3. Lift pumps can give a little trouble but I reckon they last 150k before needing changing.

 

4. Diesel pumps are bosch and last forever, mechanical on the Defender and earlier 300tdi Discos but electronically controlled on later Discos, relatively problem free. I've never ran on veg but I guess its an option.

 

5. I've never had Turbo problems so I cant comment.

 

6. I changed the headgasket on mine, it was VERY easy. It wasn't gone, it was using water and turned out the plastic cap on the thermostat housing had split. CHANGE IT FOR A METAL ONE!

 

7. Heads can crack but are relatively cheap to replace, £350 and in my experience last well compared to TD5 stories I've had. TD5 heads are about a grand a throw.

 

8. Crankshaft rear oil seals seem to leak from 100k onwards. I replaced mine with the upgraded version from International Engines.

 

For all engine parts, I use Turner Engineering. Good service, only sell the best stuff and give good advice.

 

8. Transmissions are strong. The R380 box lasts well as do diffs and transfer box. Half shafts will snap if badly abused but its never happened to me. Leaking oil is common in my experience.

 

I use Ashcroft Transmissions for my needs. They've always been really helpful on the phone.

 

Other shite includes noisy power steering pumps, easy and cheap to replace and steering boxes nearly always seem to leak. I bought a recon box which leaked after a few days. A cap full brake fluid fixed it, leak hasn't returned in 3 years!

[drum]

Well I like my td5 and the rest of the family love it albeit I need to fix leaky pas.

 

Yes water comes in the sunroof and the three amigos have struck. The injector harness siphoned oil into the ecu (10 minute job to change). I have welded some chassis rot. Oh, and some bushes are needing changed.

 

Mine has had a coil spring 'upgrade'.

 

They need looked after but they do everything so well. As good as a defender off road, mile muncher and great for towing.

[catsinthewelder]

Ah yes, rear crank seals.

 

I had a right old faff with these over the summer when I cocked up fitting one and it pissed oil everywhere on reassembly.  It wouldn't have been as bad but the starter motor on the tdi is mounted on the engine rather than the gearbox so you can test it out as soon as the flywheel is back on.  So if you change the seal  fire up the engine as soon as the flywheels torqued up and run it for 5-10 minutes to see if it's still leaking.

[Ian_Fearn]

I recommend the 'engine out' method for changing the clutch on the 300tdi. Getting the box out of a Disco is hard work.

 

I would also say that the old 300TDi is smoky old thing, do you care about the environment? If so, buy something else. I also wonder whether all the potential new emissions rules will cause the old diesels problems.

 

AND..... the 300Tdi is noisy (far less so in a Disco than Defender). I don't care what anybody says, they are noisy. Its more a question of whether you can put up with it.

 

I'd like to try a Td5 though I'm seriously considering going back to a petrol Landrover, either a 2.8i South African BMW engine Defender or a V8 on LPG.

 

I wouldn't let the scare stories put you off a Disco 2, Td5 or V8, its easy to check the chassis condition. Buy a good one following the right advice and be prepared to throw a few quid at it in preventative maintenance and enjoy a really nice machine. Landies are cheap to get bits for so when they do go wrong its never the end of the world.

[mat_the_cat]

What about the v8s? I've seen a a few disco 2 s with the 3.9v8 and LPG for decent money that's tempted me a bit.

 

Be cautious with LPG, as with something generally done to save money, there is a temptation to skimp on installation and/or servicing. It can and should work well, so don't be fobbed off (assuming a sequential system) with it sounding rough or down on power "coz it's running on gas m8". A sequential system will need to run on petrol for a mile or two from cold, unlike mixer systems which can changeover straight away, so factor in the petrol costs if you do a lot of short trips. Shorter range on gas can be annoying, unless you go for an LPG tank to replace the petrol one and a small 'emergency' petrol tank elsewhere.

 

Not much to add to the above as I've had no experience of the non-V8s.  Water leaks ARE curable; just don't assume when you find a leak that it's the *only* one...

[drum]

Here's mine with some of my other chod.