Grogee's spannering (Maestro, Avensis & Favorit). SKODA RE-ANIMATED

[grogee]

12 hours ago, Noel Tidybeard said:

umm you do know the fan switch works at about 101/102℃

I didn't realise that, it sounds high for the radiator part of the system 

[Noel Tidybeard]

how high did gauge go?

 

[grogee]

Moar Honda egg-whisk surgery.

I had an issue where the clutch actuation arm was not actually actuating anything - the lever would move freely and clearly wasn't contacting the clutch centre inside the crankcase.

Pulled it apart and ended up buying new springs, new friction discs and plates and a new bearing.

I managed to confuse myself a bit because the disc set I bought contained six sets of plates and I wasn't sure if I was supposed to use them all. After a bit of experimenting it became clear I only needed five. I'd also assembled it wrong - one of the friction discs is slightly different to allow for the operation of the 'anti judder spring', a pair of steel rings one of which is angled axially to provide some springing.

Anyway after a fair amount of pissing about I got it assembled to the point that the clutch arm 'bites' about halfway through its travel, I'm not able to move it with my fingers at that point but I can use an adjustable spanner on the arm and it's moving properly and will be fine once connected to clutch lever and cable.

Not totally clear why it wasn't working although the old set of discs could be simply worn out. My vernier calipers showed they were worn but the total thickness of the old five sets of plates vs new was probably only about  0.4mm x 5 = 2.0mm. Apparently that's enough to prevent the clutch arm from engaging.

The friction plates sit in an aluminium 'basket' and @Dave_Q recommended filing the edges of these where they become indented by the friction plates. Did this, finished off with 320 grit W&D, gave it a good clean and reassembled.

Has to be said that the condition of all the gears, shafts etc inside looks brand new - really well engineered.

Unfortunately I bought an old NOS gasket set for the engine and the one gasket I needed (LH crankcase) was split/torn. Tried to make the best of it by using sealant but the split was right at the bottom and I just know the oil would find its way out of there. So I've got another one coming, after which I should be able to mount the engine in the frame.

I've also fitted and bled the front brake caliper. Unfortunately I broke off the bleed nipple of the 'better' caliper but I made a decent assembly out of two second-hand ones and the brake seems to work now, new pads fitted too.

[grogee]

@Cluffy gave me a hand lifting the engine back into the Honda frame (happy birthday to him). Along the way I've dislodged a pipe from something, not sure what yet. Anyway it's a bit of a jigsaw puzzle to reassemble, cables and pipes everywhere. I'll have a look tomorrow if it stays dry. 

I know there's an oil feed to the little pump that doses the oil in every time you twist or let go of the throttle. That also has a connection to Y-shaped throttle cable, the other end goes on the carb. There's the carb itself with fuel pipe, then electrical connectors to main harness and temp sensor. Clutch cable to connect, and coolant pipes to and from radiator and coolant bottle. HT lead onto spark plug... And that's it, maybe. 

I think I've noticed that I routed front brake pipe wrong, hopefully I'll be able to remove caliper and thread it through the right way without having to break fluid connection which would require a re-bleed. 

I'm going to take rear wheel off to check bearings and maybe replace 'cush drive' bushes. I'm hoping rear brake won't be too painful to assemble. 

Then I put Maestro into winter mode, by putting the steelies back on with the crappy scratched up plastic covers (I do have a NOS set but there doesn't seem any point using them for winter storage).

[grogee]

Having lifted the bonnet on the Maestro yesterday, I was annoyed about the oily ooze on the front of the block. 

Of course it's pretty trivial but it might be nice to find out where the oil is coming from, and maybe it's no longer an issue. 

It looks to have wept down from the HG but avid readers of this thread will know I'm now on the fifth or sixth gasket and this one appears to be holding fluids in. 

Alternatively maybe it was coming out of the filler pipe that mounts to the block. 

Anyway there was plenty of gunge there. I gave it alternate doses of Gunk and scrubbing, repeated many times until I got bored, then wiped up with a sacrificial pair of pants. 

It's better, not concours but as good as I'll get without dismantling all the bits on the front of the block. 

Maybe I should have left the Gunk to soak longer but it didn't seem particularly efficient at dislodging the grot. In the end I was using a soft brass brush to try and shift it. 

Having done all that I retired it to its lockup. I think I'm going to declare it SORN for the winter now. October is going to be busy for me and I'm unlikely to be wanting to use the car in the damp autumn gloaming. 

[grogee]

Wow, I haven't updated this for ages. 

Basically I haven't done anything significant. 

I changed the oil & filter in the Toyota, even though it's only been 5000 miles or so since I last did it. My reasoning being that an impending move means I might not be able to get 'driveway time' with it for a while. It's fine, keeps on keeping on. Very Japanese in that respect. Absolutely brilliant on the motorway and is averaging 56.5mpg (measured). 

I've been tinkering a bit with the Honda NS125R, the engine is fitted and I turned my attention to the rear wheel. It was bolted on but without the brake and drive sprocket. I had a rummage through the box of bits but needed to buy brake shoes, a circlip and an oil seal to get the wheel back to factory spec. I haven't fitted it back on yet because I'm being a pussy about the 'cold' (it's not even that cold). 

The Maestro is in hibernation, I may buy @Cluffy's car cover if it fits just to keep the dust off. Test fitting planned for tomorrow. 

Unfortunately I did a cock up today. I decided that I'd be clever, and instead of buying a new tyre for it, I'd buy a wheel and a good part worn. That way I could replace the space saver with a full size, and get all the tyres to 'good' tread. 

Sourced the wheel and tyre, and I've just picked it up from the garage who have put it on for me - in total about £110. Went to put it on... And that's when I discovered the Avensis T250 comes with two different hub specs depending on engine spec. 

Most of the range gets a 5x100 stud pattern. 

2.2D models get a 5x114.3 stud pattern.

Toyota has gone to the trouble of producing the same alloy wheel style in both hub patterns. 

Guess which one I bought? 

[grogee]

I put the back wheel on my Honda. It's now pretty much as it should be, save a few washers that I can't find. 

I'm a bit confused about the brake light switch. The switch looks to be a sprung plunger that connects to something on the rear brake linkage but I can't see what. 

Having said that, the brake works as it should, so that's a full compliment of slowing down devices on the bike. 

Baby steps, but it's getting to be a more complete bike now. 

[IronStar]

On 07/11/2024 at 14:18, grogee said:

Wow, I haven't updated this for ages. 

Basically I haven't done anything significant. 

I changed the oil & filter in the Toyota, even though it's only been 5000 miles or so since I last did it. My reasoning being that an impending move means I might not be able to get 'driveway time' with it for a while. It's fine, keeps on keeping on. Very Japanese in that respect. Absolutely brilliant on the motorway and is averaging 56.5mpg (measured). 

I've been tinkering a bit with the Honda NS125R, the engine is fitted and I turned my attention to the rear wheel. It was bolted on but without the brake and drive sprocket. I had a rummage through the box of bits but needed to buy brake shoes, a circlip and an oil seal to get the wheel back to factory spec. I haven't fitted it back on yet because I'm being a pussy about the 'cold' (it's not even that cold). 

The Maestro is in hibernation, I may buy @Cluffy's car cover if it fits just to keep the dust off. Test fitting planned for tomorrow. 

Unfortunately I did a cock up today. I decided that I'd be clever, and instead of buying a new tyre for it, I'd buy a wheel and a good part worn. That way I could replace the space saver with a full size, and get all the tyres to 'good' tread. 

Sourced the wheel and tyre, and I've just picked it up from the garage who have put it on for me - in total about £110. Went to put it on... And that's when I discovered the Avensis T250 comes with two different hub specs depending on engine spec. 

Most of the range gets a 5x100 stud pattern. 

2.2D models get a 5x114.3 stud pattern.

Toyota has gone to the trouble of producing the same alloy wheel style in both hub patterns. 

Guess which one I bought? 

This is one of those inexplicable, overly complicated, stupidly expensive things manufacturers do once in a while that make you scream “WHY BOTHER?!”. With features and quality being cut left and right even when Avensis was a new car, I really don’t understand how that got past beancounters.

[Stinkwheel]

On 08/11/2024 at 20:07, grogee said:

I put the back wheel on my Honda. It's now pretty much as it should be, save a few washers that I can't find. 

I'm a bit confused about the brake light switch. The switch looks to be a sprung plunger that connects to something on the rear brake linkage but I can't see what. 

Having said that, the brake works as it should, so that's a full compliment of slowing down devices on the bike. 

Baby steps, but it's getting to be a more complete bike now. 

There should be a long spring (although not very springy one) from the eyelet in the brake light switch to a point somewhere on the brake pedal 

Looks like it goes to the little eyelet on part number 14

[grogee]

Thanks @Stinkwheel that diagram is very useful and also tells me I'm missing two other springs on the assembly: 12 is the return spring and 10 is required to keep the adjuster mechanism taut so that it doesn't self-undo.

I'll have another look in the bucket of bits to see if I've got it, otherwise I'll have to obtain the part or cobble something together. 

[Stinkwheel]

29 minutes ago, grogee said:

Thanks @Stinkwheel that diagram is very useful and also tells me I'm missing two other springs on the assembly: 12 is the return spring and 10 is required to keep the adjuster mechanism taut so that it doesn't self-undo.

I'll have another look in the bucket of bits to see if I've got it, otherwise I'll have to obtain the part or cobble something together. 

Its always a fight to know if youve got all the bits, especially if you werent the one who took it to bits

[grogee]

(The soon to be ex-) Mrs Grogee said, "Hire a van. We need to get rid of these boxes so the house looks nice for viewings." 

Why hire silk when you can buy cotton? 

[tooSavvy]

🤔...... That may be a 🎉 for gaining a quality ride (or...losing one)

👍

🚙💨

[grogee]

The little van that can. 

What a charming vey-hicle this thing is! 

They really aren't much to look at from the outside. The tall-but-short MPV look just reminds me of frustrating drivers 'of a certain age' bumbling slowly along A-roads. 

If only they'd extend their right foot a bit. This thing goes really well for what is supposed to be 90 piechesdtriken. Pulls strongly from 1200RPM even with a load on board. 

The best bit is the ride quality. Loping, soft, pliant and totally not bothered by speed bumps. 

Downsides? 

Heavy clutch (TADTS) and stiff gearshift but both free up after a few miles. Bear in mind I'm coming from a Toyota and that's a joy to use. 

Bit of wind noise at 70, hardly surprising seeing as it's shaped like a breeze block. 

Typical PSA failing trim bits and bobs, like the rear number plate light decor and some bit of plastic rattling around in the boot. 

With some lock on the steering, the wheel tends to tug this way and that seemingly for no reason. Probably some worn bushes in the front suspension somewhere. 

But I'm splitting hairs. It's a great little car, very capable along country roads and faster than something this shape has any right to be. 

This afternoon after lugging duties I treated it to an oil and filter change, something the odometer was quietly nagging me about. Parts kindly provided by the previous custodian, @Zelandeth. 

Not a bad job but messy. There's an oil leak from somewhere, which is depositing a healthy layer of rust protection on the floor pan. 

The sump plug has previously been butchered by a ham fisted 'mechanic' so I need to invest in a new one and an m10 fine tap. But it's good enough to hold for now, I hope. 

Did some other bits and bobs like lube door locks and hinges, plus I squirted some sheep-based protection on bits of the floor that are starting to get frilly. 

[Marm Toastsmith]

33 minutes ago, grogee said:

The little van that can. 

What a charming vey-hicle this thing is! 

They really aren't much to look at from the outside. The tall-but-short MPV look just reminds me of frustrating drivers 'of a certain age' bumbling slowly along A-roads. 

If only they'd extend their right foot a bit. This thing goes really well for what is supposed to be 90 piechesdtriken. Pulls strongly from 1200RPM even with a load on board. 

The best bit is the ride quality. Loping, soft, pliant and totally not bothered by speed bumps. 

Downsides? 

Heavy clutch (TADTS) and stiff gearshift but both free up after a few miles. Bear in mind I'm coming from a Toyota and that's a joy to use. 

Bit of wind noise at 70, hardly surprising seeing as it's shaped like a breeze block. 

Typical PSA failing trim bits and bobs, like the rear number plate light decor and some bit of plastic rattling around in the boot. 

With some lock on the steering, the wheel tends to tug this way and that seemingly for no reason. Probably some worn bushes in the front suspension somewhere. 

But I'm splitting hairs. It's a great little car, very capable along country roads and faster than something this shape has any right to be. 

This afternoon after lugging duties I treated it to an oil and filter change, something the odometer was quietly nagging me about. Parts kindly provided by the previous custodian, @Zelandeth. 

Not a bad job but messy. There's an oil leak from somewhere, which is depositing a healthy layer of rust protection on the floor pan. 

The sump plug has previously been butchered by a ham fisted 'mechanic' so I need to invest in a new one and an m10 fine tap. But it's good enough to hold for now, I hope. 

Did some other bits and bobs like lube door locks and hinges, plus I squirted some sheep-based protection on bits of the floor that are starting to get frilly. 

New clutch cable improved mine vastly. Different engine (and gearbox?) though. Welcome to the club.

[grogee]

34 minutes ago, Marm Toastsmith said:

New clutch cable improved mine vastly. Different engine (and gearbox?) though. Welcome to the club.

@Zelandeth said it's a hydraulic clutch but I'm not convinced. It does have that feel of "PSA clutch cable cooked by exhaust". 

[grogee]

I owe @Zelandeth an apology - tis indeed a hydraulic clutch. Nice one, PSA. 

[grogee]

Van mode: ENABLED

I also gave it a damn good hoovering while the seats were out to get rid of the dog hair. And had a go at centering the steering wheel - airbag off, move wheel one spline anti clockwise. 

[Noel Tidybeard]

does a/c work moar betterer than the toyoyo

[grogee]

1 hour ago, Noel Tidybeard said:

does a/c work moar betterer than the toyoyo

Think it works, it's a bit hard to tell in the winter. It will probably benefit from a regas (m9) which I will hook up next week. 

The Toyota works well now I've replaced almost every component of the AC system... 

[Zelandeth]

I'd never even noticed the wheel wasn't straight!  Which is odd as that's exactly the sort of thing that usually bugs the hell out of me.

The "notchy" for want of a better word feeling to the steering under load at lock apparently is just something they're prone to doing based on my reading into the subject when I first got the thing.  I never did find a real consensus on what the cause was likely to be.

Rear light guards and a spare mass airflow sensor will be in the post to you in the next few days - I'm just waiting for a suitable box to turn up.

[Jimbob McGregor]

The clutch on these is often massively improved by replacing the pedal’s pivot nylon bushes. The pedal often sits low, at an angle to the left if they’re worn (which most are by now, often its metal to metal.

A couple of folk sell a pair that fit on eBay (I’m not sure that they’re available as a dealer part).

[Jimbob McGregor]

Oh, re: your photos of the underside: the first place for rust to break through is usually at the triangular interface between the wheelarch/rear of the inner/outer sill that is a bit scabby in your photo.

[Jimbob McGregor]

Also…. It’s good practice on these 16 valve DV6 engines to carefully nip up the injector clamp fixings every time you drop the oil as they loosen. 
 

This causes compression/exhaust gases to blow-by the injector seal, eventually eroding through the gasket into the cam cover. 
 

The reason so many of these bit the dust with failed turbos is that the gases form chunks of carbon in the oil which start to clog the oil circulation, particularly the gauze on the high pressure feed to the turbocharger, starving it of oil.

It wasn’t uncommon for new turbos to fail rapidly after replacement due to further clogging as it’s difficult to get rid of them all, so prevention (nipping up the injector clamps) is far better than cure.

[Jimbob McGregor]

Here you go.

[EyesWeldedShut]

A/C? Next you'll be boasting it has ABS too, oh, hang on, this looks dodgy  

Ooh - have you got the 'sports' version with 110BHP? 

Our (1.6 Hdi, poverty spec -  90BHP, no aircon, no ABS ) came from a self-builder who used it on tip runs. Notwithstanding that it was in pretty good nick (135K miles @ 10 years old). Steering wheel was off centre but wheel alignment fixed that. No chuffing injectors (question - how can BMW get the same Bosch injectors in the likes of the M47 to never leak but PSA don't?) Gearchange was a bit like stirring a bowl of porridge and the clutch bushes creaked like my wallet at Christmas.
Grand wee thing, binned it eventually when I lost the mojo trying to get the proper P/steering rack for it.  We did 20,000 miles in it altogether - just the driver's seat killed my hip for some reason. 

Here it is up at Loch Ness - your ownership of a towbar has been noted, now all you need is a Freedom caravan.

 

[Dyslexic Viking]

45 minutes ago, EyesWeldedShut said:

Freedom caravan.

What are your experiences with this one? 

[Zelandeth]

There's evidence of this having issues with injector blowby at some point in the past, but I'm 99.9999999% certain it's just historical gunk in the vicinity.  I'd always intended to attack it with degreaser and the pressure washer, but with it being the daily driver trying to find time for wishlist items was always a challenge.

White paint marker on the turbo suggests it's been replaced at some point in the past.  Sadly I got essentially no paperwork with it so I've no idea what the story there is.  

I'm pretty sure this is 90bhp, though honestly I'm quite willing to be proven wrong there as it goes really well!

[EyesWeldedShut]

49 minutes ago, Dyslexic Viking said:

What are your experiences with this one? 

We like it - simple little thing. It's a 1996 model - previous owners had stripped out the old (hanging) liner and put in the modern (fuzzy nylon) sheet stuff. We've replaced the seats/cushions with a denser foam and leave the double seats down as a fixed double bed. There's still two seats and a table at the rear - no internal loo (thank God - it is rather tiny for a wafty number two). Rewired and replumbed it. Fitted a bigger/better fridge and a smaller/worse stove. Faked 12V electrics using a battery 'tender' and a 110 AmpHr leisure battery plus some relays and wiring and plans from the web - the battery  lasts us a weekend no trouble as we can run the fridge and heating (OK - cooker ring) on gas.
Little bit of damp in one corner where there's screws (sidelights) through the fibreglass skin but, seeing as it is just a fibreglass box - no rot. Split door would be nice and, if I was refitting from scratch, insulate the floor.
The running gear was a bit shagged - I've freed up the locked towball damper but ended up just replaced the entire axle assembly. It is so light that it's not a problem to tow. It is 750kg 'all up' weight so braking is not really a problem - even in the wee Berlingo. It is bouncy at speed - I've tried various 'fixes' but, other than expensive shocks, I'll live with it. 
TL:DR - basic but it'll outlast me.

46 minutes ago, Zelandeth said:

I'm pretty sure this is 90bhp, though honestly I'm quite willing to be proven wrong there as it goes really well!

Our 90bhp one went very well, we have a 90bhp C4 here plus two Binis on the 110bhp version and, tbh, there's not a lot of difference unless you really plant the right foot.  Berlingo/C4 tend to run out of steam at silly speeds compared to the Binis but, up to 60mph (ish), they're perfectly adequate. Ours towed just fine too - ABS would have been nice as the load compensator was a right PITA to keep from rusting up as we would drive it unladen for yonks and then start panicking at MOT time. I had one MOT failure on the thing - horn - contacts in the steering wheel had got mussed up so I had to get the horn on  once or twice a month just to keep things working.
 

[grogee]

Could you actually get a 110 engine in these early BerlArtners? 

AFAIK only the 75 and 90 was offered. 

I'm sure I saw something (V5) that stated mine is a 90. It's certainly quick enough for me. 

@Jimbob McGregor thanks for these top tips, much appreciated. I'll give the clutch bushes a go, why not.