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Jimbob McGregor

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About Jimbob McGregor

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    Rank Morris Ital

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    Upper Weardale


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    United Kingdom

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  1. This is something else.... Fantastic work and imagination!
  2. Parts-wise, there’s ECAS in Stafford and 2cv City in Yorkshire. I’d say the latter were the ‘budget’ setup. I’ve had some great stuff and service from Burton in the Netherlands, such as cast iron exhaust clamps which almost make working around the heat exchangers etc a pleasure compared to the usual nightmare. I seem to recall someone on here (6Cylinder?) getting a hood from there lately?
  3. Nice car. I had a red Spécial as my first car. Make sure the Dyane air duct outlet is blocked over or your engine cooling/occupant heating can suffer. If you can find the ducting to fit this outlet and feed air to the airbox that would be great. Make sure the oil cooler fins on the upper part of the front of the engine behind the fan are kept clean and check the cooler pipes for cracks/leakage as these can go with resultant loss of oil pressure The rust will most likely go further (not trying to be negative, just realistic!). The toe board gets it as can the parcel shelf/crossmember that the gear lever/steering column is bolted to/around the windscreen (with structure behind the dash) etc. Key thing is to check the chassis all over, and tap it lots in the main central section. If there’s rattling, the complex internal structure may well be rather rusty, compromising strength and the torsional rigidity of the chassis, which was very finely honed by Citroen. High values these days make the effort to sort it well worth doing, so good luck! I’m sure there is loads more help/advice to come.
  4. I have a blue 1979 Dyane 6 Weekend that I’ve kept off the road since 2005 (fixing up houses and having kids etc has got in the way). It’s currently in a friend’s aircraft hangar awaiting me to bring it up to my new house. It’s definitely going to get back to the road and is staying. I’ve had it since 2002. I've previously had 2cvs. First car in 1996 was a red 1986 Special. Sold it a year later, bought it back, knackered, in 2000. Rebuilt it with the help of a 1987 car bought for £100 (I know...) then went straight out for the Plymouth-Santander ferry. Drove it down to Andalusia, stayed a week then up to France and Switzerland. I think the only running repair was a bean can exhaust fix. It was pretty much gone a couple of years later after using it for work driving all over Dartmoor etc and I scrapped the shell/chassis and recycled certain parts into other cars. In 2002 I bought a 1987 Charleston (Grey/Grey) that had been laid up for five years for £120. Stored it for five years, A-framed it up to the Tyne valley from Devon, then did a re-chassis and body refurb (wasn’t bad) in two weeks of very solid work, including a couple of overnighters. Got an MOT at 12pm on the Friday then promptly used it as my wedding car the next morning after the wedding band had helped me polish it! Fast forward ten years and I sold her to one of my mates who helped polish her for the wedding. She lasted longer than the marriage! Now she lives in Normandy. Once I’ve made the space and sorted out my new house I’ll get my Dyane back on the road. I much prefer the Dyane to drive and live with. Details like the face level air vents are fantastic. It’s like a 2cv that has had all of the annoying bits ironed out but all the character and ability has been kept - no expanded upon. Just to annoy you all, I should add that my Dyane was free, along with a Mimosa Yellow 1978 one. It was beyond help with rust, but mechanicals were sound. Blue Dyane had duff mechanics but decent body, so I made one good one. Had this been in 2019 I’d have tried to save both as I love the yellow...
  5. As above, 206 SW axles have an extra strut on each side that has a bush on either end to help support the extra weight an SW might be expected to place on the axle arms. The torsion bars will likely be fatter too. Service box will tell the specs if you click on the Characteristics’ link after putting the VIN in. I’m about to find out if the dimensions are the same as the standard hatch one; I’m breaking my old 2.0HDI DTurbo SW, using the axle on our 206CC and the engine/box on my Partner with a knackered 1.6HDI DV6 engine.
  6. Did you change the water pump? In my experience, 90% of these are weeping grease past their knackered seals and most of the remaining 10% are ‘notchy’ or getting squeaky! Lately Gates full kits with tensioner, pulleys and water pump have been £81.40 at my factors (and usually delivered to me within the hour which is great!).
  7. The EGR unit/flap thing mentioned by twosmoke can be a pain. It can often throw fault codes. You could check the vacuum pipes are intact and functioning and vacuum solenoid valve for function too as these could cause chaos. As for fuel economy, these aren’t that great. A 2.0 HDI with 90bhp can achieve 48mpg with a decent mix of driving, whereas the DW8 will be around 38-40 and be rather sedate with it!
  8. The central locking - in the car, ignition on (poss engine running) then press and hold the big locking button on the middle of the dash until you get a beep. That switches off the auto-locking feature that’s alarming you.
  9. Hi, if there are one or two that don’t materialise I’ll take the tickets...thanks!
  10. Also injectors are usually reasonably easy to extract once they’re chuffing. If they’re chuffing it means the clamp has loosened off and the injector has moved enough to allow gases past the fire seal. Might be a fair bit of carbon to remove though!
  11. Re: radio, the older RD3 ones from the mid-2000s onwards emit an annoying chirrup over the audio channel when fitted to another car. You need to use Lexia or Planet (if a Peugeot) and go into the menu that allows setup of new equipment, then select the RD3 in that menu, which will allow it to work in it without the chirrup.
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