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1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Nae rolls m8.


juular

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Full disclosure, I used furniture connector bolts to keep the filters on which maybe wasn't the most technically sound idea, but it was the only ones I could get my hands on that were the right length.

Today I replaced them with proper M8 long bolts and nyloc nuts which should hopefully last at least a week.

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Minor adjustment to the exhaust. The back box was smacking the old exhaust hanger bracket because the little strap that came with it was a miserable length.

Fixed that by adding an extra bit of galv plate to drop it.

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Seems to do the job ok.

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  • juular changed the title to 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Chrome shite.
22 hours ago, juular said:

Full disclosure, I used furniture connector bolts to keep the filters on which maybe wasn't the most technically sound idea, but it was the only ones I could get my hands on that were the right length.

Today I replaced them with proper M8 long bolts and nyloc nuts which should hopefully last at least a week.

PXL_20240321_180314248.jpg.9ddff152abcda986c63edfefda1aa615.jpg

Minor adjustment to the exhaust. The back box was smacking the old exhaust hanger bracket because the little strap that came with it was a miserable length.

Fixed that by adding an extra bit of galv plate to drop it.

PXL_20240321_171944817.jpg.84de792c5893f8ce0b826239880441aa.jpg

Seems to do the job ok.

Needs sound on this thread @juular 😄

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You'll have to wait for the sound video because I just did this.

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The wiring on this was getting on my tits.  Had a lot of instances whereby things work but not quite all the time, or fuses randomly blowing.  The original factory wiring is shite. I have now ripped out EVERYTHING.

You can see on the right here that the back of the fuel gauge stands in as an unfused positive terminal for almost everything under the dash including the wiper motor, indicators, heater fan and who knows what else, held on by a piddly 6mm nut. That is going to change.

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I present the main light switch. Again, unfused and permanently live, with the permanent live cut and twisted into the feed to the small footwell lights, from factory.

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The big feed to the wiper switch. Again, some dodgy chaining of big positive wires going on here.

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The circuits which are fused are run off a shitty engine bay fusebox which is riveted together, and the rivets are starting to come loose causing random dropouts. That and the small issue of continental/glass fuses being total shite and hard to come by when you need them most.

Solution : bin off the fusebox in the engine bay, and run everything off a pair of blade fuseboxes inside the footwell.

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The fusebox on the left is the permanent live one, which will run the interior dome light, indicators / hazards, and headlamps.

The box on the right will be ignition switched, but I am also going to add a main ignition relay so that the ignition switch isn't constantly handling all of the current running through the entire car.  I know it's designed to take it, but the switch (and key!) can get very hot and I'm just waiting on the contacts burning out, especially if I decide to add any more load in the future.

The important thing is that everything is going to be fused, and that the fuses are going to be easier to replace when needed.

I seem to be doing this all off the top of my head, WCPGW.

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  • juular changed the title to 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Electroshite.
1 hour ago, beko1987 said:

Best way, rip it out and do it all properly! Gonna hide a usb socket or 2 up somewhere? 

Plus once you've done it right you probably halve the wires hiding under there without really trying 

@MrsJuular found a low profile USB adapter for the cigarette lighter that blends in really nicely, check it out below left. It's so discreet and easy to add/remove that I don't know if I will bother adding any USB ports.

PXL_20240310_131928192.jpg

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14 minutes ago, juular said:

@MrsJuular found a low profile USB adapter for the cigarette lighter that blends in really nicely, check it out below left. It's so discreet and easy to add/remove that I don't know if I will bother adding any USB ports.

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Ah yes that does blend in well! I'd argue having a sat nav plus phone charging ability fairly critical even if wanting to go oem only, especially going up and down the road* like you do so often 😂

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6 hours ago, juular said:

@MrsJuular found a low profile USB adapter for the cigarette lighter that blends in really nicely, check it out below left. It's so discreet and easy to add/remove that I don't know if I will bother adding any USB ports.

PXL_20240310_131928192.jpg

I have tried a few options along these lines until I found one which was both discreet and charged at a decent current! Do you know what it will charge at?

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 25/03/2024 at 22:03, mat_the_cat said:

I have tried a few options along these lines until I found one which was both discreet and charged at a decent current! Do you know what it will charge at?

This one will do an actual charge rather than a 'charging slowly' which is all most other adapters I've tried recently seem to manage.

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Rewire complete. 

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Have made a few changes. The switched fusebox is fed from a master 100A relay which is triggered from the ignition key. This takes the heavy load off the ignition barrel which could get extremely hot with all of the current for all systems passing through it.

The coil is fed straight off the barrel and is unfused, as it should be, so even if the relay fails the engine won't stop.

Apart from that I made sure all cable ends had good quality spade connectors and heat shrink wrap with adhesive. This way they're pretty tough and reliable and eliminates some of the nasty and corroded original connectors.

The engine bay is much cleaner now without the fusebox, relays, and associated wiring nests.

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Wiring for the reverse lights and overdrive now run inside, and I've packed the gap around the gearstick with insulation to cut down on road noise.

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Important upgrade done to the brake lights. The original brake light switch is a fluid pressure switch which tends to only activate when you're standing on the pedal. 

I've changed it for an electrical pedal switch, which needed a bracket made up.

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A real pain to drill the bolt holes for this in the pedal box so the top hole is in at an awkward angle.

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Still it does the trick and is a massive upgrade. The lights now come on as soon as you touch the pedal.

While the steering wheel was off I swapped the steering column coupling bush as it was really sloppy.

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The steering column shroud also got a coat of paint after I did some repairs to the cracking brittle plastic with some epoxy.

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Last few bits done inside. A new hazard switch.

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I then remembered I bought a set of instrument panel stickers off Demon Tweeks.

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So I then did what I originally meant to and sorted the dash light graphics.

Before.

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After.

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  • 3 weeks later...

A combination of endless life things plus a number of mental health crashes means I haven't really been into this as much as I wanted.

Had a bit of a grumpy moment when I had a look at the front wheels and realised the new Pirelli tyres were worn right down on the outer edges, miles past the wear markers, effectively rendering it not road legal.  Also, £200 pissed into the wind. Fuck.

I got some Kumhos stuck on to replace them for the moment. More importantly I also had a look at the alignment on the front end. Turns out I had been running an insane amount of toe-in which was the alignment setting which felt best, but has basically killed the tyres.  The worn out upper wishbone bushes wouldn't have helped either, as they'd have caused major positive camber, effectively riding on the tyre edges.

Bushes replaced last month, I reset the toe to dead straight and took it a drive with the new tyres. 

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Mixed bag here. The handling feels quite a lot sharper with the wheels straighter, which is what you'd expect. However the car also wants to pull strongly to the right, which suggests something else isn't straight. That's almost certainly why I ended up setting so much toe-in which tends to negate any pull.

The front end is aligned using shims, but that only affects caster and camber, neither of which cause so much of a pull but have more effect on grip and steering weight.

I decided to measure the distances between the wheels front to back, and there was a significant difference between sides. So the problem is the rear axle sitting skewed, effectively causing a rear wheel steer. The most likely cause is that the bushings are worn unevenly on the trailing arms and torque arms.

Reluctantly, all of the rear arms have been removed and I'm just waiting for the time to swap all the bushes for poly versions.

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Also..

WHAT'S IN THE BOX?

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Sprots upgrades.

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Thicker front ARB, and a rear one too (these only have fronts as standard).  Those need some mods done to the car to fit, so will probably be done last.

Oh and I fixed the temperature gauge.  By wiring it up correctly after I stupidly set it up the wrong way round.

Hoping to take the Amazon to Twixfest / WD40 in just over a week.

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  • juular changed the title to 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Sorting the steering.

Back end of the car went back together although required a bit more persuasion with new bushes. It's now time to fit the last couple of bushes on the front lower control arms. This means pulling out the springs, shocks and anti-roll bar links.

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Oh, those don't look right.

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Despite the bushes looking absolutely shagged, there is a bigger issue here. The bushes have walked themselves out of the arms a bit.  The reason for this is that the inner sleeves of the bushes ride on the car's crossmember. The arms themselves should stay in line with the bushes. Having them walked out like this means that the arms are bent.

I confirmed this by laying both arms on top of each other and noticing how different they were.  

I also dug out the control arms from the donor car and laid them on top. They are ALL different, and one of the arms has a noticeable kink in the metal.  

Doing a bit of research, it seems that these arms are fairly fragile given that they're just a pressed steel design with no reinforcement, so a good kerbing can bend them. Given that they are over 60 years old they've done alright.  However it's not great and I'm attempting to fix an already annoying pull on the steering.  I could bend them back into shape using the press, but I have no reference as to what they should be like as all four arms are different, so they will have to be replaced.   

Meanwhile I set to fitting the new front anti-roll bar. 

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Slight issue already. My car has the older style of anti-roll bar brackets which only have one bolt, so I will need to do a modification to take the later two bolt bracket.

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Achieved this by drilling a new hole straight up through the chassis leg into the engine bay.

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That then takes a M10x80mm bolt to secure the rear of the bracket.

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I also have the rear bar to fit, but I'm not sure whether to do this before or after Twixfest at the weekend.

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  • juular changed the title to 1964 Volvo 122S - Amazonian rustforest. Nae rolls m8.

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