Rust proofing fun

[Lankytim]

The wife’s Fusion had an advisory on rust near the rear suspension mounts for its last MOT, as I didn’t have much to do yesterday I thought I’d have a go at treating it.

I had a can of Waxoyl dating from the early 2000s so I fired up the compressor, found the oil gun attachment thing (Aldi special) and gave the whole rear end a thorough dousing after thinning it out with petrol,  I used the long lance to get inside hollow sections the best I could and it seemed to cover really well. I’ve got another can of Waxoyl and may do the front end when I can be bothered, although this time it’s clear rather than black. 

The result looks quite nice, and should bring a tear to the MOT testers eye- best of all it wasn’t  nearly as messy as I though it would be. It gave me an idea of using this oil gun more often and maybe experimenting with other rust proofers. Wax oil is the old favourite but apparently isn’t rated by many in the old clunker world.  Do any shiters have a favourite? I’ve used Dinitrol before but it was very messy, do people still recycle sump oil and spray it around the underside of their cars or is that something from a bygone era? 

[Jimblob]

Hi Tim. Watching with interest as I will be doing my Visa when it's back from the welders with new sills!

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[TrabbieRonnie]

Looks like a good job there, I think waxoyl's ok if you haven't much rust to start with. 

 

I would never use it again, as on my old shite it has only ever served to trap water against the metal when it ineveitably dries out, making it rust worse rather than preventing it (see my poor old jeep).  I did see it applied to a pal's pickup truck, we warmed the stuff up thoroughly first, and the thing was clean as a whistle to start with.  It did the job fine then, and looked perfect even a couple of years later. 

Rustoleum, and good thick grease applied with a brush is my chosen method now, a pain in the arse to do though.

[HMC]

It is satisfying, to me at least. It’s probably more expensive but for minimising  Faff, and mess (I’m great at making a mess in general)I buy a whole load of those bilt hamber dynax 750ml aerosol. Even with me doing it it’s possible to get a perfectly smooth and even layer. I also like to watch the carrier shizz from the aerosol venting out of box section holes and panel joints (especially when the wax bleeds between spot welded bits) and where I’ve removed bungs for access. 

#I have no life

[somewhatfoolish]

Better/less incendiary to bathe the tin in a bucket of hot water rather than dilute with petrol/flammable solvent of choice. Would ignite agane. 7.89/10

[RayMK]

I had a very old can of Waxoil in the garage loft. It amused me because the can had rusted to almost nothing just above the level. It got chucked. The solvent in Waxoil used to give me severe headaches despite applying it outdoors. I agree that Dinitrol is good but messy. Dynax S50 works well in cavities and surprisingly well on open surfaces.  Old engine oil is, according to some experts*, full of exceptionally nasty stuff and may even be acidic and therefore corrosive. Personally, I have found that cars which leak oil which gets sprayed on to the bulkhead and transmission tunnel do not rust there at all. Pity they couldn't leak oil over the arches. I've never had much trouble with sills, thanks to Dynax.

[Lankytim]

  On 09/05/2020 at 15:15, somewhatfoolish said:

Better/less incendiary to bathe the tin in a bucket of hot water rather than dilute with petrol/flammable solvent of choice. Would ignite agane. 7.89/10

Expand  

I did think about that but the risk of explosion or impromptu flamethrower seemed worth the risk.

[C1am]

Each year I pressure wash mine and Waxoyl it - I also injected the sills this week, and cleaned up and repainted the wishbones. It seems to do a fine job on non-rusty metal as I have a good look underneath at MOT time.  I do it on a hot day, put it in the sun which makes it liquid, then cut it with about 20% white spirit.   

[Fumbler]

The stuff's good- and far better than what the car maker puts on it- but do watch out for it starting to peel. Seems the stuff can dry out and then lift off, accelerating the problem by trapping moisture.

[MikeR]

A clean down and a bj from a cheap rattle can for my cars .. any box sections get a spray of oil from a can .  

[UltraWomble]

Ive costed up a compressor and the bits and the gunk and for me its cheaper to buy the rattle cans of Dynax

Good job though

[Lankytim]

  On 09/05/2020 at 20:03, UltraWomble said:

Ive costed up a compressor and the bits and the gunk and for me its cheaper to buy the rattle cans of Dynax

Good job though

Expand  

I bought the compressor for other duties ages ago. They're well worth having- mine was only a cheapie. Once you get one you'll wonder how you managed without. Impact guns, blowing up tyres, great fun!

[rickvw72]

I really enjoy putting dynax on, watching it bubble away.

Your not alone.

Waxoyl or anything is ok, treat it as an on going process rather than something that’s done. I top up any coatings each year where there’s signs of trouble.

[Split_Pin]

That was an advisory? Very harsh indeed, looks like just a spot to me.

I really rate Dinitrol. The bits that eventually rotted out in my Corsa were areas I'd never thought would go rusty so weren't treated . It has definitely save the car as a prospect though.

For surface corrosion, I usually opt for sanding, Vactan, 2 coats of Hammerite or whatever and 2 of stone chip or underseal.

[RobT]

I'm a convert to the aerosol way of doing things.  Have been for a few years now.  I've used Dynax on the Metro and 11 but it's so bloody expensive, so opted for some random cheaper stuff recently when doing the Morris.

These were £25 off eBay and came with the extension which is essential obvs.  Still managed to spend £75 on repeat buys, so it's not the most economical way of doing things.  Nor environmentally friendly as I've now got loads of aerosol cans to dispose of.

[sierraman]

I’d avoid injecting Waxoyl into the sills unless you KNOW it’s fairly rustfree in there. A mate of mine welded up the sills on a Cavalier, the owner had chucked about a gallon of thinned Waxoyl in the sills for some reason a fortnight before. The resultant fire burnt the unit down. 

[C1am]

My car's nearly 12 years old, the sills are in great condition, and they'll never need welding as long as I own it, so it's all good. 

[Tadhg Tiogar]

  On 09/05/2020 at 14:31, Lankytim said:

.....do people still recycle sump oil and spray it around the underside of their cars or is that something from a bygone era? 

Expand  

Some oul Citroens do this automatically whilst you're driving them....

[straightSix]

  On 11/05/2020 at 11:19, Tadhg Tiogar said:

Some oul Citroens do this automatically whilst you're driving them....

Expand  

I can confirm this

Question, do you need to do anything with the rust underneath or is there a rust inhibitor in this stuff? I've always thought it's better to wire brush the rust off and treat before undersealing, which sounds like a lot of work and hence why I've never bothered...

[Lankytim]

I just give it a brush or a scrape to remove loose scale and slosh the rust proofers on, although many will say it’s important to totally remove/convert the rust first.

Underseal is a different product to Waxoyl or similar rust proofers, it’s more of a bitumen type product. I’ve never been a fan of it as water can get trapped behind it and promote rust. 

[Mr_Bo11ox]

I plan to do inside my trucks chassis legs etc with waxoyl thats been hugely diluted with WD-40 (or some pound shop equivalent). I reckon pure waxoyl will build up a thick layer of paraffin wax shiz that has zero 'creep' and will just cause a massive inferno if you go near it in future with a welder. I figure if you dilute the waxoyl loads it will go into the spot welds and existing crusty bits better, and not build up a uselessly thick inflexible layer.

[sierraman]

  On 13/05/2020 at 10:45, Mr_Bo11ox said:

I plan to do inside my trucks chassis legs etc with waxoyl thats been hugely diluted with WD-40 (or some pound shop equivalent). I reckon pure waxoyl will build up a thick layer of paraffin wax shiz that has zero 'creep' and will just cause a massive inferno if you go near it in future with a welder. I figure if you dilute the waxoyl loads it will go into the spot welds and existing crusty bits better, and not build up a uselessly thick inflexible layer.

Expand  

You want white spirit for that. Let it down 20% and spray it on as warm as possible through a pressure sprayer 

[Honey Badger]

Don't bother with Waxoyl, it's a crappy outdated product and if you need to bugger about thinning it or heating it before use it's probably best being filed with the Vectrex and VHS2000 as things that were good in 1979 but now only really have a use to remind us how much things have moved on.

If it's an old shitter thats only going to scrape another mot or two then use Waxoyl, if it's something you want to last then then the Bilt Hambler Dynax is pretty unbeatable in terms of flow and coverage.

[EyesWeldedShut]

  On 13/05/2020 at 10:45, Mr_Bo11ox said:

 I reckon pure waxoyl will build up a thick layer of paraffin wax shiz that has zero 'creep' and will just cause a massive inferno if you go near it in future with a welder.

Expand  

Yes - chassis rails on a Series Land Rover have a pleasant chimney effect in this situation (and the rear wiring loom is inside the right hand rail). Happy days.