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Posted

Is super-heating snapped or broken ABS rings and sliding them off, and then doing the same to the new ABS ring to fit them a recognised method of approach for such a job?

 

The S60 is going into the local friendly garage on Monday as I'm quite certain I've got snapped or borked ABS rings that are causing the 'BRAKE SERVICE NAO' warning lights to come on. A bit of research reveals Volvo's preferred method would be to charge you for a whole new axle/drive shaft or some such horrifically expensive item.

 

However, it seems very easy to buy the individual rings themselves, so the above method must be one that is recognised as a way around what is likely an unnecessary job?

 

A local friendly mechanic would know this right?

 

 

PLZ REASSURE.

 

How do you think the manufacturers get the rings onto new driveshafts?

Posted

MAGIK.

 

I've had them done on a Rover 45 diesel before. I suppose it must have been done that way too. How else do you get a made-to-fit bit of metal onto another bit of metal?

 

I always have TEH FEARS before anything is done on my car. :-(

Posted

Starlet needs new tyres as the ones on the sirion alloys have zero grip. They can be span in 2nd on a dry road.

 

As it is literally going to be just used on track/autotest etc.

 

Kingpin remoulds are cheapest new option. Are they likely to kill us?

Posted

Generally speaking, as I dont know the specifics of your van.....

 

You need to find out if the vans CL is a live pulse or an earth pulse to activate it. The last few kits I have done have been live pulse, IE shove 12v down the vans "lock" wire for a second and it will lock. Shove 12v down the unlock wire for a second it will unlock.

If this is the case, these are the only two wires from the locks that you need to connect to the gizmo you have.

 

Obviously the gizmo needs its power and earth supply and the rest is usually some way to configure it for different vahicles ie to pulse live or earth. Last one I had needed a wee loop of wire from the live terminal to another terminal as a jumper to allow it to give a live pulse. You will need to persevere with the instructions to figure this out (or post up a scan and we can have a look).

 

 

Disclaimer - not all vehicles have an actual motor in the drivers door, just a switch that can look like a motor. Does the drivers door lock and unlock if you use the key in the passenger door? if so, cool. If not, bummer, you will likely need to add a servo motor in the drivers door.

 

Argh - alas, it is indeed lacking in a driver's door motor.  One can add an actuator but frankly at the moment I've got bigger things to get on with so I'll put it all back together and come back to this at a later date.  Halfway through the bed build now and the lining's pretty much done, I should probably bung up a thread on the camper/day van conversion if anyone's interested. 

Posted

Is super-heating snapped or broken ABS rings and sliding them off, and then doing the same to the new ABS ring to fit them a recognised method of approach for such a job?

 

The S60 is going into the local friendly garage on Monday as I'm quite certain I've got snapped or borked ABS rings that are causing the 'BRAKE SERVICE NAO' warning lights to come on. A bit of research reveals Volvo's preferred method would be to charge you for a whole new axle/drive shaft or some such horrifically expensive item.

 

However, it seems very easy to buy the individual rings themselves, so the above method must be one that is recognised as a way around what is likely an unnecessary job?

 

A local friendly mechanic would know this right?

 

 

PLZ REASSURE.

Or slide the broken ring off, clean the rust off the inside of the ring and off the shaft/hub where it seats. Then Araldite the fucker back in place with a hose clip around the outside of the ring to clamp it until glue has gone off.

They seem to snap because they start rusting underneath and this eventually bursts the ring.

Posted

Thanks for your responses. I reckon the Volvo is on its originals (it's now on 109k) and they've rusted underneath and split the ring (fnar).

 

We'll find out tomorrow. In all fairness I've put 10k+ on the car without suffering any major bills at all so in my head it can be forgiven something more serious than just ABS rings. But knowing the symptoms from having it happen previously, I'm hoping for a nice cheap and easy fix!

Posted

Argh - alas, it is indeed lacking in a driver's door motor.  One can add an actuator but frankly at the moment I've got bigger things to get on with so I'll put it all back together and come back to this at a later date.

 

Ah! Mine (ToMM©) has a rockerswitch on the armrest to 'lock/unlock' from the inside = solenoid on all doors ;)

 

 

TS

Posted

1.2 16v 2001 Clio is "abs-ing" the brakes all the time. Possible causes? A Google says front rings on the driveshafts or the abs unit itself. Also, is there a comprehensive code reader that will give specific error codes for this issue?

As correctly surmised by ScaryOldCortina this was the ABS ring falling to bits. A replacement came from J&R and I've just finished fitting it (not without some issues). Now it is back together the ABS light is on. Is it needing a few ignition on off cycles to reset itself? Does it have to be reset by software or have I damaged the ABS sensor in the process of replacing the ring?

Posted

Have you driven it yet? I know some wait till they reach a set speed to test the ABS.

Posted

As correctly surmised by ScaryOldCortina this was the ABS ring falling to bits. A replacement came from J&R and I've just finished fitting it (not without some issues). Now it is back together the ABS light is on. Is it needing a few ignition on off cycles to reset itself? Does it have to be reset by software or have I damaged the ABS sensor in the process of replacing the ring?

Have you ran it with one wheel off the ground? Sometimes running the engine on a two post lift can knock the sync out of the ABS.

Posted

Go for a drive, it should reset itself. If the light stays on after that check that the plug onto the sensor isn't loose.

Posted

Have you driven it yet? I know some wait till they reach a set speed to test the ABS.

Turns out it is this. I had only moved it around near the house and not reached 20mph or whatever the necessary speed is. Now I've been out in it the light has gone out.

  • Like 2
Posted

Anyone know what the fuck is wrong with my 1.6 Kettle 216 cab?

 

Cranks for an age before it starts, usually with a bit of pumping the throttle however I don't know if that's even making a difference

 

Reluctant to rev once it's running although once above about 2k revs it will raise engine speed quickly and strongly like there's nothing wrong. Bit of smoke out the back when revving hard and sometimes at idle (white)

 

No mayo. No overheating if I can keep it running long enough

 

Stupidly easy to stall at lower engine speed and will cut out it left idling for a bit

 

Prior to this I had to renew the battery leads because they were corroded and broken, starter wouldn't turn at all. It's been sitting for at least six months.

Posted

When was the last time you checked the sparkplug gaps?

Never....

 

Did think about fuel / fuel filter but would 6 months really degrade fuel that much?

Posted

Never....

 

Did think about fuel / fuel filter but would 6 months really degrade fuel that much?

 

I've had stuff running no probs after a year or more standing so I personally doubt it - but maybe my old junk is less fussy.

Posted

Dizzy cap cracked? The idle in my R8 214 was alles uber der platz, and that's what it was.

Posted

Hmm - age, time sat and shock of being put back into service might cause that kind of thing I guess

 

Guess I just need to give the ignition and fuel systems a good going over

Posted

I've known sports bikes refuse to start on 3 month old fuel - it's a modern fuel problem probably compounded with the addition of ethanol.

On the other hand I've a Perkins engine that will start and run on the 15 year old diesel that was in the tank when it was parked up. There's none of that bio muck in it though...

Posted

my golf had terrible problems after about 6 months stood , id done the same every winter before with no problems so yes some fuels can go bad

 

brim it up with some 99 ron stuff and a can of inj cleaner and see what happens

Posted

Hmm - age, time sat and shock of being put back into service might cause that kind of thing I guess

 

Guess I just need to give the ignition and fuel systems a good going over

 

Take the distributor cap off and clean it meticulously - they never seal well against the cylinder head, and condensation always seems to find its way in ! Before you put it back on, smear silicone grease on both mating surfaces - I did that two winters ago, and haven't had any running issues since.

Posted

Parasitic drain question.

 

What does this reading actually mean, I don't know if this is high or not!

post-17457-0-48114100-1488289581_thumb.jpg

 

This is after taking the only fuse out that changed anything. 

This is the lowest it got.

post-17457-0-87200900-1488289574_thumb.jpg

 

Yours sincerely, a bit thick when it comes to electrical theory!

Posted

If I've done my sums right, that's 2932 microamps - not enough to light up a single panel lamp - not a big cause for concern as far as I can see.  

Posted

Yes, a tiny amount of current. Quite safe to ignore as a car battery could supply that current for years.

Posted

Yo dudes!! How does one undo these stupid sunken head rusty Pugshite 205 exhaust spring mofo?

 

post-7239-0-04773100-1488293989_thumb.jpg

Posted

wont a socket push over them

 

otherwise might an idea to cut em and replace if you can get at them

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