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Posted

Why would coolant in a expansion bottle be cold? Radiator feels cool, temp gauge takes ages to move but usually sits at quarter unless in traffic then it goes to just under half, heaters work fine though. I'm thinking thermostat. Owner thought it was head gasket over a year ago but in 10k the situation hasn't changed. Any advice? Cheers

 

 

Coolant doesn't flow through an expansion bottle, it's to allow for expansion. As the engine warms up you'll get a small amount of warm coolant from the small pipe that goes to the rad & as the engine cools it takes some back via the larger pipe. But this isn't enough to warm the bottle.

 

Your temps do sound a bit 'stat ish, but if this is the C15 then it's a NA diesel producing about 0.25bhp so won't get warm quick or very warm at all. You could try putting your hand on the rad/top hose when it's only been running a few mins. If they start to warm up right away then the 'stat is stuck partly open, if it gets to it's normal temp & they get warm about the same time then all is good.

  • Like 2
Posted

My buddy has a 2005 Fiesta "engine cuts out whilst driving, engine light on...

Gets home, reversing and engine light, oil light, battery light all on, while running"

Any suggestions apart from petrol and a match?

 

Flat or damaged battery, smart* charge system gone awry?

check the engine earth strap first.

It was my friends gfs fezza, she hates me and I hate her so wasn't that interested.

 

I received these texts "she took it to Evans halshaw (nope, I've no fucking idea why) £1000 to fix"

 

"She took it to garage around corner £5 fix"

  • Like 2
Posted

Coolant doesn't flow through an expansion bottle, it's to allow for expansion. As the engine warms up you'll get a small amount of warm coolant from the small pipe that goes to the rad & as the engine cools it takes some back via the larger pipe. But this isn't enough to warm the bottle.

 

Your temps do sound a bit 'stat ish, but if this is the C15 then it's a NA diesel producing about 0.25bhp so won't get warm quick or very warm at all. You could try putting your hand on the rad/top hose when it's only been running a few mins. If they start to warm up right away then the 'stat is stuck partly open, if it gets to it's normal temp & they get warm about the same time then all is good.

Its the c2. It's got shit in the header tank but doesn't overheat, barely gets warm
Posted

Rough value of an OE Ford Focus 1.6 cat? Any ideas? If it's worth a fiver I'll not bother needless to say.

Posted

 

 

Your temps do sound a bit 'stat ish, but if this is the C15 then it's a NA diesel producing about 0.25bhp so won't get warm quick or very warm at all.

Most vehicles with indirect injection diesel engines have good heaters, they aren't thermally efficient and run hotter than modern diesels.

Posted

Can anyone recommend me a good screw?

 

 

Stupidly I thought I'd fix the bed with Tommy Walsh's finest pound shop screws. Two thirds in, on every screw, the sodding thing chewed itself and now no matter how hard I try I can't drive them further.

So I need some about an inch to inch and a half long that are strong.

Posted

Can anyone recommend me a good screw?

 

 

Stupidly I thought I'd fix the bed with Tommy Walsh's finest pound shop screws. Two thirds in, on every screw, the sodding thing chewed itself and now no matter how hard I try I can't drive them further.

So I need some about an inch to inch and a half long that are strong.

These are good in past experience:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/goldscrew-woodscrews-double-self-countersunk-4-x-40mm-200-pack/16159

Posted

Would drilling a pilot hole help with those screws? I know an 'engineer' who always puts woodscrews in with a hammer, his justification being that the head will remain in good order facilitating later removal. The cunt.

  • Like 5
Posted

Any screw should do so long as it's not from Poundland. It's rounded off as it's up against too much resistance. As above pilot hole roughly the width of the screw without the thread. Drive it in with the drill giving it a couple of short blasts as opposed to one long drive if that makes sense. Then stop buying shit from Poundland.

  • Like 3
Posted

Did LJK Setright ever write about the LS400? I can't find much except second hand quotes.

Posted

Can anyone recommend me a good screw?

 

 

Stupidly I thought I'd fix the bed with Tommy Walsh's finest pound shop screws. Two thirds in, on every screw, the sodding thing chewed itself and now no matter how hard I try I can't drive them further.

So I need some about an inch to inch and a half long that are strong.

Spax and Reisser, with a preference for Reisser.

 

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+%26+Fixings/d90/Reisser+Screws/sd2716

 

http://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/woodscrews/cat840066?brand=spax

 

No pilot hole needed as they have cutting heads, just invest in decent Wera or Milwaukee driver bits.

Posted

Would drilling a pilot hole help with those screws? I know an 'engineer' who always puts woodscrews in with a hammer, his justification being that the head will remain in good order facilitating later removal. The cunt.

 

It's a crinkle cut nail, innit.

  • Like 3
Posted

Rough value of an OE Ford Focus 1.6 cat? Any ideas? If it's worth a fiver I'll not bother needless to say.

Got the number off it?

Posted

Any screw should do so long as it's not from Poundland. It's rounded off as it's up against too much resistance. As above pilot hole roughly the width of the screw without the thread. Drive it in with the drill giving it a couple of short blasts as opposed to one long drive if that makes sense. Then stop buying shit from Poundland.

I only did a very small pilot hole as I couldn't get the drill in and the screws only have a smallish thread so didn't want too big an hole!

 

I ended up with poundland as I was sick of forgetting to order some and I was in the shop looking at their crap tools. They did fix some stuff OK....

 

Thanks though for all the answers, I'll get some ordered!

Posted

Most vehicles with indirect injection diesel engines have good heaters, they aren't thermally efficient and run hotter than modern diesels.

 

The C15 I used to drive had a shit heater.

The Tdi Landy I used to own would get cold if the heater was on full with it idling.

Other examples are available but my experience is diesels don't produce masses of heat unless they have a turbot & are running on boost.

Posted

The c15 is great considering its heating a large uninsulated tin box with ventilation holes!

  • Like 1
Posted

The one I used to drive took about an hour to get warm & then never got to hot, that was after a new stat.

Posted

Not off hand no but it's the original. Just wondering if it's worth weighing in that's all.

Everybody I know to ask always asks for the number at least £30 upwards if it's an original item at a guess though

Posted

The C15 I used to drive had a shit heater.

The Tdi Landy I used to own would get cold if the heater was on full with it idling.

Other examples are available but my experience is diesels don't produce masses of heat unless they have a turbot & are running on boost.

The 64BHP Polo 1.9D I'm running about in just now has a great heater, previous XUD powered cars had good heaters too.

Maybe C15s just have shit heaters or your one had an especially shit heater. I've owned loads of shit old diesels and live in the north of Scotland, heating has never been a problem.

Posted

Does your polo heater blow cold when you go down a long hill? My 19d mk3 golf used to do that, but it would warm up pretty quick to start with.

Posted

Everybody I know to ask always asks for the number at least £30 upwards if it's an original item at a guess though

From what I've read Car Take Back insist you leave the Cat on. However if I cut the fucker off midway they'll hopefully be non the wiser.

Posted

The ABS light has started coming on in the Octavia as soon as it starts moving and, thanks to a suicidal pheasant I encountered a couple of days ago, I know for sure the ABS no longer works.  Googling suggests sensors are a common failure, is there a straightforward way to identify which one without resorting to trial and error? 

Posted

The ABS light has started coming on in the Octavia as soon as it starts moving and, thanks to a suicidal pheasant I encountered a couple of days ago, I know for sure the ABS no longer works.  Googling suggests sensors are a common failure, is there a straightforward way to identify which one without resorting to trial and error? 

For ABS sensors I have measure the resistance of the sensor with a multi meter, not sure what the readings in ohms should be but if you check all 4 then you should see a difference.

  • Like 2
Posted

This can be done at the ECU plug if you know what pins to check. I'd expect the pinout and correct resistance to be available somewhere on the owners' forums.

Posted

Mk60 pin 45 46 NSF pin 42 43 OSR pin 36 37 ,NSR pin 33 34 OSF

 

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Posted

Does your polo heater blow cold when you go down a long hill? My 19d mk3 golf used to do that, but it would warm up pretty quick to start with.

Not that I've noticed, the coolant temperature drops but the heater is still good. It defies thermodynamics or something.

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