Ask a Shiter

[mercrocker]

Be very careful about using the "other vehicles" clause in your policy in any transitional phase of ownership.   I did exactly this, had a crash involving personal injury and everybody from the person who caused the accident to the parents of the teenage girl injured and their insurers came after my ass.   It took me three and a half years to get over it, financially.      

 

As said, contact your insurer but the best bet would be a temporary policy IMHO

[DodgeRover]

As far as I can see unless there is a reference somewhere else in the terms and conditions then yes you would be covered in that scenario. I would be making sure I had those documents with me after picking something up though.

[scdan4]

I will check with them, but am quietly confident. There is no other reference in the garb.

 

Having had a truly enormous claim in the past, I am very aware of the value of being insured. Mercrocker, out of interest if you were covered, what were your losses other than the car? Either 3rd party damages/injuries are looked after by the insurers, or they're not.(?)

 

I've done temp covers in the past, but they are never cheap so if not necessary the money will be comfier in my pocket.

 

Ta me ducks.

[fraser.innes.3]

What's the best way of getting an outer bush casing out of a wishbone? I've got the front wishbone off the 205; the middle metal bore just fell out of the bush and I was able to pull the rubber off with my fingers (that's how knackered it was), but the outer casing is still in there. It looks like if I got it in a vice (I don't own one, but I could probably take it round a mate's and borrow his), I could get a screwdriver blade on the lip of the bush and twat it with a hammer, but I don't know whether that would knock it out or whether it'd be in there too tight? Any other ways that don't involve specialised tools?

I just drive the fucker out with a socket and a lump hammer.

 

Sent from my HUAWEI M2-A01W using Tapatalk

[twosmoke300]

Tool abuse !

[Mally]

I will check with them, but am quietly confident. There is no other reference in the garb.

 

Having had a truly enormous claim in the past, I am very aware of the value of being insured. Mercrocker, out of interest if you were covered, what were your losses other than the car? Either 3rd party damages/injuries are looked after by the insurers, or they're not.(?)

 

I've done temp covers in the past, but they are never cheap so if not necessary the money will be comfier in my pocket.

 

Ta me ducks.

 

I always thought that driving other cars only worked providing the other car was also separately insured.

ie. vehicle has to first be insured to be on the Highway.

I could well be wrong.

[SiC]

I always thought that driving other cars only worked providing the other car was also separately insured.

ie. vehicle has to first be insured to be on the Highway.

I could well be wrong.

Directline doesn't have to be. Personally, for the sake of £20 or so for drive away cover, I wouldn't risk it. However it's useful to have for quick test drives of cheap cars.

[Guest Hooli]

I think that I can drive other peoples cars, even if they are not currently insured.

 

This is all I can find in my policy documents.

 

As in I can go and buy a car (for someone else, with their money and their name and address being entered onto the V5) and drive it to their house, without having to insure it for me, first.

 

Is this correct or is it dodgy? (I'm a bit of a stickler for insurance, so not up for long roadside chats, at best,)

 

DSC_0046.JPG

 

DSC_0047.JPG

 

Thanks

 

Looks like it to me, I've been to court with similar papers & they accepted them.

 

Bare in mind though that these days the car has to be insured to be taxed, if it's not taxed you can only drive it to/from a MOT.

[mercrocker]

What will/can happen in the case of a vehicle being owned by Party A until transferred to Party B but delivered by Party C on behalf of B is that there is a massive sitting-on-hands by all the Insurers involved and there needs to be some insurance fully in place for the "driving other cars" part of Party C's policy to be effective. 

 

In my case I agreed to deliver a motorcycle from the seller to the purchaser but had a collision (non-fault) en route.   The person who hit me was insured but I was held not to be by virtue of both seller and purchaser being "advised" by their insurers to deny responsibility.   My own insurer didn't want to know as there was no confirmation from anybody that the motorcycle did not actually belong to me.   Whilst there were technicalities and chicanery involved in this case it would have been so much more clear cut had I taken out some sort of policy myself before agreeing to do the delivery.

[SiC]

Anyone got any suggestions on something to drive a distributor around at speed?

 

I'm probably going to want to spin the distributor upto something like 6000rpm ideally. I guess a minimum of 3000rpm on the basis an engine red line is typically fairly near 6000rpm (3k * 2 as a dizzy runs half crank rpm). Needs to be DC and low voltage (<48v) so I can easily vary the speed.

 

I did think a cheap electric drill. Handy in that it has a chuck to mount the nose of the distributor in and also quite high torque. Its also a nice complete package. Unfortantly most seem to top out around 1300rpm.

 

Next idea is this motor:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-24V-30W-Permanent-Magnet-Electric-DC-Motor-CW-CCW-For-DIY-Generator-New-Arr/192316165034?epid=10007394932&hash=item2cc6efcbaa:m:mSff_aw7Pjl_HK4AtuU1VDg

 

Attached to something like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Jaw-Self-Centering-Lathe-Chuck-M12-1-45mm-For-Mini-6-in-1-Lathe-Two-Lock-Rods/152612301263?epid=2125374273&hash=item238866e9cf:g:6Z8AAOSw2xRYbLR3

 

Anyone got any more ideas? I'm struggling to think of any right now. Ideally I want the motor+chuck combo to be a nice off-the-shelf package that I can bolt in an enclosure.

[DodgeRover]

Angle grinder?

[dave21478]

My cordless angle grinder is apparently good for 8000 rpm or so.....its 18v so probably possible to make a speed controller?

Fuck knows how you would couple it to some kind of chuck though? iirc the output shaft of angle grinders is a weird thread pattern so screwing on a standard drill or lathe chuck might need some kind of adaptor made up.

You dont want to be fucking about with too much bodgery though, wobbles at that speed will rattle the bastard right off the edge of your desk.

[SiC]

Yeah I did think angle grinder but as you said the mounting could be difficult. Also it's likely to slow down quite a bit from 8k once loaded down as unlikely to have a lot of torque at those revs.

[Mally]

Sounds dangerous to me. unless you clamp it well in a lathe.

[SiC]

My plan is to fix the distributor itself into a securely fixed (to the rig) lab clamp stand or similar. So the distributor itself shouldn't go flying, only bits that could would be all the things inside the distributor.

 

I'm wondering if a drill motor would survive being over volted. Wouldn't be too much load on the motor but then the revs may kill a cheap drill gearbox.

 

Hmm.

[Dave_Q]

Looks like it to me, I've been to court with similar papers & they accepted them.

 

Bare in mind though that these days the car has to be insured to be taxed, if it's not taxed you can only drive it to/from a MOT.

This isn't quite true, yes they have this continuous insurance thing where you may get a fine if you do not insure a taxed car, but you 100% can tax any car with an MOT regardless of insurance unless you're in Northern Ireland.

 

Think about it, the system would have to check on the MID to see if you were insured, even if you had bought some there's no guarantee the insurer will update the MID within the next few weeks.

 

So either you let people buy tax without insurance, or you give everyone an excuse not to buy tax (SOZ M8 COULDN'T TAX IT NOT ON DA MID YET)

[Des]

Angle grinders with speed control, albeit crude ones, are ten a penny these days from the likes of Lidl, for all your dizzy driving needs, coupling wise, you could try finding a big nut for the grinders spindle and a short length of radiator hose and clips, should be just up to the job if both items are supported but would hopefully release when the whole ballyhoo tears off on a nom nom trashing spree chasing you round your gaf while you scrabble to pull the main fuse. Maybe sit the dizzy in the top of an axle stand, poke the grinder in through a side and keep your boot on it, carry out a risk assessment and I'm sure it will be fine.

[scaryoldcortina]

I'd be tempted to rig the dizzy up via a belt and pulley arrangement rather than direct drive tbh. More flexibility on motor choice and control over gearing for starters.

[TataBobu]

What he said. With belt and pulley you can still use the drill to power it, and have a gearbox of sorts. You just need a 5:1 ration between the big pulley (turned by the drill) and the small one (that would turn the dizz) to get from 1300 to 7500 rpm.

[SiC]

Angle grinders with speed control, albeit crude ones, are ten a penny these days from the likes of Lidl, for all your dizzy driving needs, coupling wise, you could try finding a big nut for the grinders spindle and a short length of radiator hose and clips, should be just up to the job if both items are supported but would hopefully release when the whole ballyhoo tears off on a nom nom trashing spree chasing you round your gaf while you scrabble to pull the main fuse. Maybe sit the dizzy in the top of an axle stand, poke the grinder in through a side and keep your boot on it, carry out a risk assessment and I'm sure it will be fine.

 

Speed controlling 240v with a low voltage source is a bit of a pain in the arse and can be dangerous - so rather go a lower voltage route if I can. I want to have electronic control of the distributor drive speed, so I can log the rpm vs advance and plot a distributor curve.

 

I'd be tempted to rig the dizzy up via a belt and pulley arrangement rather than direct drive tbh. More flexibility on motor choice and control over gearing for starters.

I was going for direct drive for simplicity and not needing so much fabrication. Maybe this is a perfect first project for me to learn to weld with?

[3VOM]

What do people use to clean up wheels before fitting tyres? I seem to be taking ages to do mine, but it looks like it did get liberally coated with sealant last time a tyre was put on.

[Tickman]

1957 Morris Minor,

 

With a battery connected the ignition is on, it doesn't matter it the key switch is on or off.

 

Could it be anything else other than a key switch failure?

[scaryoldcortina]

Could be a short circuit between ignition dependant and permanent live somewhere. Unplug the ignition switch and see if it's still doing it.

[Tickman]

Could be a short circuit between ignition dependant and permanent live somewhere. Unplug the ignition switch and see if it's still doing it.

 

Thanks, I'll eliminate the obvious then look for the less obvious if that doesn't work.

[Guest Hooli]

The ignition is on, or just the charge warning light is on?

 

The latter could be a diode in the rectifier.

[mercrocker]

Minor ignition switch can fail open circuit which will give the red light.   When I had a similar fault on my Austin I was getting live LT circuit but no red light - that was a fusebox short.

[Tickman]

The ignition is on, or just the charge warning light is on?

 

The latter could be a diode in the rectifier.

 

Ignition on, I can start it with no keys.

 

Minor ignition switch can fail open circuit which will give the red light.   When I had a similar fault on my Austin I was getting live LT circuit but no red light - that was a fusebox short.

 

Good to know, I shall have a look later hopefully

[tooSavvy]

How does the 'advance curve' manifest itself (under this test rig set up)?

 

A white spot on the input/dizzy shaft bottom (would be in the engine block) and a difference (by strobe) back to white spot through a l/t 12V on points >> into a coil.

 

Or a 360deg disc/collar [under strobe] on dizzy bottom...

 

 

TS

[SiC]

How does the 'advance curve' manifest itself (under this test rig set up)?

 

A white spot on the input/dizzy shaft bottom (would be in the engine block) and a difference (by strobe) back to white spot through a l/t 12V on points >> into a coil.

 

Or a 360deg disc/collar [under strobe] on dizzy bottom...

 

 

TS

Yes is pretty much the answer. I'm still learning about ignition theory, etc but my current plan is to have a reference point generated by something attached to the motor. In some ways the point in a cycle that an engine is statically timed at. From this reference point, time the difference between that and the distributor actuating. Thus determining the timing.

 

Probably put a reluctor or optical wheel on the shaft, with many segments. This way it shouldn't be as necessary to zero the distributor. Not sure if I can get one with sufficient accuracy (that isn't really expensive) though.

 

The reason for this is as a test rig for a electronic mappable ignition unit that I can develop against. I could use a signal generator and a scope, however I'd like the system capable of using mechanical points. These will introduce contact bounce, wear and other issues. So instead of trying to simulate that, actually build a rig that is a decent representation.

 

The rig would also be useful for testing mechanical distributors and their advance curves.

[Mally]

I have a bulb on a bit of wire that I use when I'm being technical.