Mally Posted November 8, 2017 Posted November 8, 2017 Fuel tank £50 new, but that ones not new.Steering wheel £35 new. I'll give you a tenner if it's 15" and not bent.Lump hammer could be useful
SiC Posted November 9, 2017 Posted November 9, 2017 My MGB has 2 sealed beam units on it. One Lucas, one Unipart. On them there is a number - one of the form like "74 03" Is this a date code? I.e. year 1974, week 3.
wuvvum Posted November 12, 2017 Posted November 12, 2017 A couple of weeks ago the engine on the Movano ran away. As far as I can ascertain it's the turbo seals which have gone - I don't think it's oil getting past the rings as the engine doesn't breathe enough for that to be happening. I'm now worried to drive it anywhere as I would imagine it will do the same thing again once it gets warmed up. Would the problem be solved by removing the outlet pipe from the intercooler and putting some kind of cone air filter on the end? Obviously the engine then wouldn't be getting any boost and the van will be slow as feck, but it should avoid the engine nomming its own oil vapour, shouldn't it? Or am I missing something obvious?
Dave_Q Posted November 12, 2017 Posted November 12, 2017 If it is running on turbo oil as you describe its more liquid oil than vapour, a fairly large volume of it. As such all of this oil leaking out would be your main concern if you did that, both in terms of oil leaking everywhere and the engine running out of it. Turbos don't have oil seals as such, they seal by having higher pressure in the inlet/exhaust than the middle bit. Likely causes for turbo oil leaks are an inlet restriction such as a collapsed pipe or blocked filter, or a blocked/kinked turbo oil drain pipe. Alternatively, the oil could be coming from the engine into the inlet via the breather system.
Guest Hooli Posted November 12, 2017 Posted November 12, 2017 Could be worth flushing the intercooler out too. They fill up with oil n gunk from the EGR over the years.
Guest Posted November 13, 2017 Posted November 13, 2017 Saab did a 3.0T in the older shaped 9-5s. I tried to read up on this 200hp engine and found out it was a typically quirky Saab engine and I was quickly out of my depth understanding how it would all work. Could anyone who knows about it dumb it down several notches? It must be a silky smooth V6 with a lovely torque curve, but I'm surprised it hasn't got more than 200hp.It was an Isuzu design originally IIRC, and had loads of issues- drinking oil,diesel in the oil, overheating and head gasket/liner problems. I'd avoid...
twosmoke300 Posted November 13, 2017 Posted November 13, 2017 That's the diesel one - they did a petrol v6 turbo too . Iirc it's meant to be pretty tough
rantingYoof Posted November 13, 2017 Posted November 13, 2017 Aye, my dad's Signum has the 3.0CDTi in it and it's generally been a pillar of dependability until recently. The 3.0T petrol was a Saab only thing as far as I can tell. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
5speedracer Posted November 13, 2017 Posted November 13, 2017 Friday on the way home and the EML comes on, Merc A180cdi. Once home plugged in OBD to phone app and got P2251, O2 sensor heater, bank 1, sensor 1. So that's the lambda nearest the engine.I reset the light and it's not come on again but the fuel range has come down suggesting the sensor may indeed be unwell. Would this be correct? Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
Guest Hooli Posted November 13, 2017 Posted November 13, 2017 I think trip computers use recent mpg to calculate range & if you had a faulty sensor flagged it'd have dropped to open circuit mixture control & have been richer than normal till you reset it. I.e. I'd ignore it for a few days & see if it goes back to normal.
5speedracer Posted November 13, 2017 Posted November 13, 2017 Thanks Hollie, aye I'll give it a few days. Suppose if the sensor is faulty it'll tell me again. Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
egg Posted November 13, 2017 Posted November 13, 2017 Any recommendations for an occasional use pop riveter? Need to do some on the new Mondy bumper. Cheers.
egg Posted November 13, 2017 Posted November 13, 2017 Cheers, I've never used one so don't know the err...drill..
Rocket88 Posted November 13, 2017 Posted November 13, 2017 Any recommendations for an occasional use pop riveter? Need to do some on the new Mondy bumper. Cheers. Got one from Screwfix yesterday.......has a swivelling head [!] £14...........seems to do the job......no rivets with it though....... egg 1
steveo3002 Posted November 13, 2017 Posted November 13, 2017 any suggestions for good websites that sell universal rubber seals /extrusions ...other than what comes up on 1st page of google
sierraman Posted November 13, 2017 Posted November 13, 2017 I’ve a good riveter that I bought this summer for a quid at a car boot, the rivets were from Aldi, I think they about £3 for a selection of a hundred or so. egg 1
SamR380 Posted November 14, 2017 Posted November 14, 2017 any suggestions for good websites that sell universal rubber seals /extrusions ...other than what comes up on 1st page of google We use Seals Direct at work, always seem pretty good. Don't really know how they compare price-wise, it's not my money steveo3002 1
95 quid Peugeot Posted November 14, 2017 Posted November 14, 2017 Does anyone know a car I am likely to find in a breakers that will have heated seats which are heated both on the base and on the back? Bonus points if they are fairly comfortable seats too.I've a set of black leather ones in the spares V70 i purchased, fully working, its in stowmarket , if you can be arse taking them out, sensible shitters price.
loserone Posted November 16, 2017 Posted November 16, 2017 Is it normal for a dealer to insist on the person being named on the V5 as registered keeper to also be the person who signs invoices etc., and therefore to be present at the point of sale? Perhaps I'm too used to buying cars blind over the internet and/or on behalf of other people!
DodgeRover Posted November 16, 2017 Posted November 16, 2017 Not really you could well be buying for an elderly relative , they're probably just covering their back.
castros_bro Posted November 16, 2017 Posted November 16, 2017 Here we go again......... For an MOT is it acceptable to disconnect + disable + paint over the front and rear position lights (side lights and rear lights?) + head lights then they are not tested but an advisory note is added to the MOT cert ??? Confusingly from the DVLA MOT test manual https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/documents/manuals/m4s01000101.htm This inspection applies to all vehicles, except those which either have no front or rear position lamps or have such lamps permanently disconnected, painted over or masked that are: • only used during daylight hours, and • not used at times of seriously reduced visibility. If this situation occurs, the vehicle presenter should be issued with a VT32 recording the above. Obligatory front and rear position lamps are lamps required by Regulations to be fitted to a vehicle to indicate its presence and width when viewed from the front or rear. Two front position lamps must be fitted, one on each side and show a steady white light to the front (or yellow if incorporated in a yellow headlamp). Two rear position lamps must also be fitted, one on each side, showing a steady red light to the rear.
Des Posted November 16, 2017 Posted November 16, 2017 Toyota Forlife coolant, it's pink, so is it the same as the modern pink G12 stuff for topping up?Ex Toyota mechanic here asking BTW.
DodgeRover Posted November 16, 2017 Posted November 16, 2017 Here we go again......... For an MOT is it acceptable to disconnect + disable + paint over the front and rear position lights (side lights and rear lights?) + head lights then they are not tested but an advisory note is added to the MOT cert ??? Confusingly from the DVLA MOT test manual https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/documents/manuals/m4s01000101.htm This inspection applies to all vehicles, except those which either have no front or rear position lamps or have such lamps permanently disconnected, painted over or masked that are: • only used during daylight hours, and • not used at times of seriously reduced visibility. If this situation occurs, the vehicle presenter should be issued with a VT32 recording the above. Obligatory front and rear position lamps are lamps required by Regulations to be fitted to a vehicle to indicate its presence and width when viewed from the front or rear. Two front position lamps must be fitted, one on each side and show a steady white light to the front (or yellow if incorporated in a yellow headlamp). Two rear position lamps must also be fitted, one on each side, showing a steady red light to the rear.Only have experience with motorcycles, if fitted must work. Can be permanently covered then not tested. May or may not expect switchgear to be removed as well.If tail light is fitted headlight must be as well. Occasionally you will see an advisory of presented without lights for day time MOT (which really has no meaning)
castros_bro Posted November 17, 2017 Posted November 17, 2017 Only have experience with motorcycles, if fitted must work. Can be permanently covered then not tested. May or may not expect switchgear to be removed as well.If tail light is fitted headlight must be as well. Occasionally you will see an advisory of presented without lights for day time MOT (which really has no meaning) Motorbikes are no problem and probably half the ones I've owned had no lights but got MOTs. The problem I have is the imported Dacia Logan was never made in Right Hand Drive so never had headlights for UK use and the next hurdle in registering it is to get an MOT. The easy way would be to electrical disconnect the head, side and tail lights (possibly remove the bulb holders), and mask the glass with black gaffer tape. My reading of part of the MOT guidance is this is good enough for an MOT but will get VT32 advisory note that it should not be used at night or in bad visability. BUT the other part says working front and rear position lamps -side and tail lights - are required.
DodgeRover Posted November 17, 2017 Posted November 17, 2017 If it's LHD then stick on beam benders are fine for the mot, SOC will be able to confirm this.
DodgeRover Posted November 17, 2017 Posted November 17, 2017 What effect if any does ignition timing have on air/ fuel ratios?
scaryoldcortina Posted November 17, 2017 Posted November 17, 2017 Beam benders or cutoff shields to blank the wrong side kickup should sort the headlights for MoT, it's certainly a better way of going about it than trying to gain daylight only status by binning all the lights! PS, if you really do want to do that you have to lose the stop lamps too. Just don't, OK? Rusty_Rocket 1
Mally Posted November 17, 2017 Posted November 17, 2017 Got one from Screwfix yesterday.......has a swivelling head [!] £14...........seems to do the job......no rivets with it though....... Buy my rivets from Screwfix. Big boxes, last for ages.
Dave_Q Posted November 17, 2017 Posted November 17, 2017 Didn't they sell them in India?+10 shite knowledge points for you sir, you are of course thinking of the Mahindra Renault Logan. Probably also sold in Pakistan which I'm pretty sure is also rhd. Richard 1
DSdriver Posted November 17, 2017 Posted November 17, 2017 Buy my rivets from Screwfix. Big boxes, last for ages.Make sure they are aluminium or stainless steel, mild steel just rust away.
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