Project The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Now in sharleys hands

[alf892]

I've got a BOC bottle on their volksworld ( I think) deal. Argon mix and it is cheap.

 

Nearly makes up for paying standard rate for about 20 years because I never asked...

[SiC]

I've got a BOC bottle on their volksworld ( I think) deal. Argon mix and it is cheap.

 

Nearly makes up for paying standard rate for about 20 years because I never asked...

Tell me more!

[somewhatfoolish]

Tell me more!

 

Gas deals

 

More generally about shielding gas

[SiC]

Those BOC deals are pretty decent. Especially considering the amount of gas I've been getting through. The hobbyweld big bottle is 5x larger than my current smaller hobbyweld. The BOC isn't filled as much, but still around 4x the amount of gas.

 

I'd saved £100 if I went with a BOC cylinder rental. The only issue is that if I stop welding then the yearly rental could end up costing me more. Also the bottles are twice the weight. I think I will have to fix my trolley if I go for one of these larger bottles!

[Scruffy Bodger]

I will have to fix my trolley if I go for one of these larger bottles!

 

If only you had something that would stick bits of metal together that you could strengthen it with lol

[SiC]

Just setting up an account with BOC. The deal for hobbyists is:

Argonshield light Y-Cylinder - 230bar fill 5m₃

£56.40 inc VAT per year

£43.20 per refill

 

You get the rental charge back prorated if you return it earlier in the year.

 

I phoned 08082506020 (a freephone number) and selected industrial gasses. The offer is called the Volksworld offer. Apparently was some magazine offer they did or something and all the MIG forums have latched onto it. I guess because Volkswagens need the most welding.

 

I hate hassle but this seems very hassle free. Once my account has finished being setup, I just go to my local depot and pick a cylinder up when I need it. A lot closer and easier to get to than the welding supplier I was using.

 

I've spent £160 on 4x refills and then there is a admin fee on top. So probably nearly £200 on gas. This cylinder is roughly equivalent to those four refills and works out as £100 if you only used it for a year. At this price, it's not worth going 100% CO2 imo as I know the argon setup I've got will get decent results with what I'm working with.

 

I might still keep my Hobbyweld cylinder and have it refilled, as it looks substantially lighter than the one I'm getting and so better for portable use if I ever need to.

 

Thanks alf892 for the tip.

[Remspoor]

I have heard that in just using pub CO2 is is not going to give you decent welds. Porosity can be a terrible.

When I lived in the UK I rented my bottles from BOC. You can always end the contract when you have finished and return the bottles.

I have now gone over to using flux cored wire. 2 things that have influenced this decision. One I can only do work in the open air and the other is that bottles are a lot harder to rent unless you are based in a large Spanish city.

I was going to post a short video clip (on a new thread) about the way the wire feeds through. It works find, but when welding the wire does seem to hold back and welding  splutters. Reading the MIG forum linked above it would seem the liner is worn.

Sorry for the high-jack, but me getting on with repairs to my Westie is mainly due to this thread.

[SiC]

I'm doing all my welding outside but I'm lucky in that my driveway is a bit of an alley way thats sealed off on both ends. So I don't get too much airflow through unless it's blowing a gale. I also have a welding curtain up usually which helps a lot too.

 

I read this off a welding advice site and it's what swayed me against 100% CO2. Since everything seems to be working well for me, I am loathed to change the magic formula too much.

Carbon Dioxide (CO2) is the most common of the reactive gases used in MIG welding and the only one that can be used in its pure form without the addition of an inert gas. CO2 is also the least expensive of the common shielding gases, making an attractive choice when material costs are the main priority. Pure CO2 provides very deep weld penetration, which is useful for welding thick material; however, it also produces a less stable arc and more spatter than when it is mixed with other gases. It is also limited to only the short circuit process.

 

For many companies, including those that place an emphasis on weld quality, appearance and reducing post-weld clean up, a mixture of between 75 – 95 percent Argon and 5 – 25 percent CO2 will provide a more desirablecombination of arc stability, puddle control and reduced spatter than pure CO2. This mixture also allows the use of a spray transfer process, which can produce higher productivity rates and more visually appealing welds. Argon also produces a narrower penetration profile, which is useful for fillet and butt welds.

I've put a new liner in my torch but cut it a tad short. So sometimes the wire gets suck in the tip and needs the torch jiggling around to get it back out! Apparently blowing compressed air through the liner can help massively too.

 

I also bought a 4m torch but my machine can struggle pushing wire on that unless the liner is pretty straight. Its handy when doing welding inside the car though.

 

I have thought about getting some flux core wire to give it a go. Not on car body work but more as it would be useful if I need to ever fix stuff that I rather not bring a gas bottle with me.

 

Tempted to get a TIG torch and have a go with that too. I don't think my welder can have a pedal for the torch though like dedicated TIG sets often have.

[SiC]

Sorry for the high-jack, but me getting on with repairs to my Westie is mainly due to this thread.

Have you got a project thread on it? I'm very interested to see it!

 

(Don't worry about thread off-topic/hi-jacks, I find often its possible to learn a lot when it happens. Also I'm terrible for doing it anyway...)

[Scruffy Bodger]

I have heard that in just using pub CO2 is is not going to give you decent welds. Porosity can be a terrible.

 

 

 

 

I'd beg to differ on that, that's a second hand log burner repair and a chassis repair on a distinctly second hand LDV chassis, both with zero porosity even though welded outside and subject to the elements. Any pin holes will be down to gusts of wind or contaminants on the inside of the material I wasn't able to remove.

It's fine to weld with but may* spatter a bit more and you may find it welds a bit hotter but you can set the welder accordingly. I've used Cargon by BOC, SGS, Air products Cougar etc in Industrial applications but for hobby use imo CO2 is fine.

 

Looking forward to Sics next install anyway and I've still got welder envy btw 

[Angrydicky]

I've welded with both. Argon is definitely more forgiving, but I've had some great welds with pub gas too. Technique, wire speed, power and cleanliness are all far more important than having that bit of Argon per bottle.

[somewhatfoolish]

I use pub gas, it is messier than argon blends but I iz cheep. If I bought a project car with below-tideline steelwork like a paper doily I'd probably splash out on a bottle but until then I shall continue to economise.

[SiC]

How much is pub gas for comparison? Surely can't be much cheaper than £43.20 for a similar fill?

 

I'm expecting this next bottle to last the rest of the welding needed. I might get a long hose and leave it in the corner of my garage and not on the trolley. Especially as the trolley has now collapsed entirely!

[Angrydicky]

Mine's £30 a pop to refill.

[Mally]

Mines £20, but I collect it from Rufforth Auto Jumble.

Its a fair drive, but I pick 2 bottles up, and I'm going anyway.

[DodgyBastard]

I get my co2 refilled at a pub wholesalers in glenrothes at £19 a refill.

I got my bottles for free at local recycling centres who were happy enough for me to take them away.

I find that the co2 seems to last longer than hobbyweld. It may be slightly different quality to argon but for welding up old shitters it's fine.

At work we use boc argoshield heavy along with a flux cored wire. It's great for welding thicker stuff.

 

Sent from my G3311 using Tapatalk

[Remspoor]

Have you got a project thread on it? I'm very interested to see it!

 

(Don't worry about thread off-topic/hi-jacks, I find often its possible to learn a lot when it happens. Also I'm terrible for doing it anyway...)

maybe I will. But it will not have a constant feed of posts. I cannot work on the car even on a weekly basis, for various reasons. Some times 6 or more months fly past before I get going again.

 

 

 

 

I'd beg to differ on that, that's a second hand log burner repair and a chassis repair on a distinctly second hand LDV chassis, both with zero porosity even though welded outside and subject to the elements. Any pin holes will be down to gusts of wind or contaminants on the inside of the material I wasn't able to remove.

It's fine to weld with but may* spatter a bit more and you may find it welds a bit hotter but you can set the welder accordingly. I've used Cargon by BOC, SGS, Air products Cougar etc in Industrial applications but for hobby use imo CO2 is fine.

 

Looking forward to Sics next install anyway and I've still got welder envy btw 

You look as if you have done well-

But  professionals if it had advantages then they would do.

[Scruffy Bodger]

You look as if you have done well-

But  professionals if it had advantages then they would do.

 

Reduced spatter means less clean up time, time = money. I was just trying to get the point across that frankly whoever told you that pure CO2 leads to porous welds was talking out their arse. When it comes to welding new metal to shitty bits of old tin that constitutes an old car using it is a non event.

 

Check out Shite Nights latest save of the little Visa cabriolet if you still need convincing (bloke needs an AS medal for that one). 

[Remspoor]

Reduced spatter means less clean up time, time = money. I was just trying to get the point across that frankly whoever told you that pure CO2 leads to porous welds was talking out their arse. When it comes to welding new metal to shitty bits of old tin that constitutes an old car using it is a non event.

 

Check out Shite Nights latest save of the little Visa cabriolet if you still need convincing (bloke needs an AS medal for that one). 

 

I would tell my Late uncle, unfortunately I cannot find the Ouija board.

[Scruffy Bodger]

I would tell my Late uncle, unfortunately I cannot find the Ouija board.

 

I'm sure he gave out plenty of good advice in his lifetime   but that bit perhaps wasn't his best.

[sharley17194]

Seems awfully quiet....has the bounce gone form your bungee? 

[anonymous user]

He will be knitting SU carb cosies and roasting cv joints give him a break, Christmas is probably getting in the way a bit

[sharley17194]

lol christmas is a great time to work on a project car, gets you away from those annoying relatives 

[cort16]

Is SIC on his holidays he doesn't seem to have logged in for a couple of weeks?

[Remspoor]

Is SIC on his holidays he doesn't seem to have logged in for a couple of weeks?

Ghosting?

[Noel Tidybeard]

Is SIC on his holidays he doesn't seem to have logged in for a couple of weeks?

 

maybe he's gone for a spin in the MGMGMGMGBGT

[captain_70s]

More than likely it broke down and he's still pushing it home....

[vulgalour]

He's about, he popped up on my thread on another forum the other day.

[SiC]

Thought I'd give an update on progress over the last few weeks since I last posted. I've been off for a while on AS because of "Reasons". Given the explosion that appears to have happened today on here, I best not delve into those "reasons" as I don't want to be responsible for causing more strife!

 

First order of business was to fix bodge my welding cart as its looking a bit worse for wear. Especially as the new BOC welding bottle was significantly heavier than the previous Hobbyweld cylinder.

 

Found some old wood to prop up the back.

 

Then used all of my 75 kilos of mass to reshape the backend by treading on it.

 

I did put the new bottle on the back, but to be honest it was still a bit too much.

 

Decided a better idea would be to put the bottle in the corner and connect to the welder by a long piece of hose. Its made the cart way easier to move around and I don't know why I didn't do this sooner.

 

Welded new metal on the heater area in the cabin. This is what it looked like before.

 

After patching a big piece in. I cut roughly to shape and welded over the top. Plenty of red oxide to cover the new metal until I get around to painting the interior.

 

I know patching isn't the best thing, but this was a massive PIA place to work - even with the interior stripped out.

 

Carried on with the bulkhead section. Firstly by cutting the hole bigger and then giving a good coat of enamel paint.

 

Now welded and fixed up inside, it was time to seal up the bulkhead. This job has been a utter sod of a jigsaw to do.

 

This bit I saved and reused, as it'd been a right bugger to remake.

 

Backside had a bit left over from being welded before.

 

So I ground that bit back flat.

 

Then welded the piece into the car.

 

I had to now start welding up the jigsaw sections of bits to fit.

[SiC]

At this point I realised I made a monumental screw up.

 

Take a look at this picture of the bulkhead area on a 1100.

 

Now see what I've welded in.

 

Notice how there is a step section in the white car behind the master cylinders and washer bottle? Yeah I forgot to put that in. I should have known better, as I already knew that there should be one. Why? Well Vulgalour had to hit it with a hammer so the master cylinders fitted the right way around. Just I forgot that I needed to put the step section in. D'oh.

 

This was going to involve some cutting to sort this mess out. I marked up the area I was going to cut to bend that section back.

 

Bent it back and then got out the old master cylinders for a test fit.

 

How are we doing back there?

 

Bugger. Still doesn't fit.

A bit more drastic work is going to be needed then. *sigh*

 

If in doubt, get the hammer out...

 

Does it fit?

 

Just!

 

Put some more bird shit down to finish off.

 

Back to making jigsaw pieces and welding them in.

 

These are really awkward bits to make and weld in.

 

Some how I need to tidy this up and make it presentable once I've finished. Without utterly caking it in filler like it was previously.

 

This is where I currently am now. I'm hoping to get that left hand side finished off before I go back to work next week.

 

I haven't figured how I'm going to paint the inside of that new metal either. On the back of the metal, I have given it a quick paint, but I've likely burnt it all off when welding the pieces in.

 

Maybe drill a few holes, stick a Dintrol wax tube in and spray to cover the backside? Then plug with rubber bungs. Or stick a tube down the air intake at the top, then spray paint in and hope it gives a good cover.