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Posted

 

 

or just sign up for a new Dacia on finance.

Who are you and what have you done with Lacquer Peel?

  • Like 1
Posted

Just returned from a full weekend with a mate from school, helping him remove the engine from his Subaru because after having all kinds of love and money thrown at the car, the ungrateful thing is knocking its main bearings.

 

Stage 1, park the car on level ground and apply the handbrake.

IMAG1878_zpsugel34e9.jpg

 

Stage 1a, if no level ground is available, build yourself some decking with some loft insulation boards.

IMAG1879_zpsqqhry2gz.jpg

 

Stage 2, remove all the stuff that makes a modern engine work.  The last time we did this kind of thing was with an aircooled Beetle engine and it took about 10 minutes to remove all the ancillaries.  This took about 6 hours.

IMAG1882_zpskq2xhjjc.jpg

 

Stage 3.  Oh, are you still trying to remove the last couple of bolts from Stage 2?  I'll come back in a few hours.

 

Stage 3, put the engine crane into position, making sure its wheels don't punch through the temporary decking.  As this is in Wales, it's obviously rained which helps the decking boards be even softer and more dangerous.

IMAG1883_zpspezovssp.jpg

 

See the yellow trolley jack under the car?  That's supporting the gearbox because you have to lift the engine and box up so the engine mounts clear.  I was under the front of the car pumping the trolley jack and the engine hoist at the same time, a bit like at the end of Wizard of Oz when he's working all the levers.

 

Stage 4, lift the engine out.

IMAG1884_zpscyi16gtg.jpg

 

Yes, it's gone alright.

IMAG1885_zpsstzekf6v.jpg

 

Stage 5, put it on a trolley and drag it across uneven, stony and sloping ground into the garage where it can be collected later and rebuilt.

IMAG1886_1_zpsooqrnd7y.jpg

Posted

Who fixed a Corsa/Vauxhall? Nugget's OEM radio has stopped working for no reason.

Sorry,I attempted to stop a squeaky Bush or something or another on the back end of the vectra today. Managed to quiet it down a bit.
Posted

Yesterday I fitted Lumenition electronic ignition to the Scimitar.

 

Put a few miles on it this morning and the timing was clearly miles off. Pulled the Dizzy out and moved it round two teeth and had another go which resulted in a total lack of running! So I decided to pull the distributor out and set it up statically from scratch and when it was pretty close I tried to make the fine adjustments with the timing light. mine is an old gunsons one which was given to me by a neighbor and I'm not really sure how accurate it is!

 

In the end I resorted to going for a drive this evening and making a series of fine adjustments by the roadside, I'll know a bit more when I've been out for a run over to Chichester in it tomorrow... So far the most obvious improvement is that now seems to be much easier to start!

 

Straight 6 Coupe news. A buyer has been found for the engine thats currently in the car, this means I'm going to have to pull my finger out and get rebuilt race tuned engine prepped for refitting so that I can get the old one out and the new one fitted in a single hit. The new engine will want, seals, core plugs, spark plugs and a fresh coat of paint as a minimum.

 

The rebel van is also now on sale I've had a few early expressions of interest but I am expecting it to take a while to sell as its a bit specialist.

  • Like 3
Posted

I was thinking about some electronic ignition for my scim.

 

But it starts pretty much first turn with a tiny bit of choke and runs lovely. I fitted it to the stag I had but it made starting worse, and it used to back fire afterwards. Many tweaks later it ran o.k* but it seemed a lot of effort for not much gain.

 

Apart from the fuel pump packing up at the weekend, but 30 odd quid for a new one and ten mins to fit were running again.

Posted

The scimitar already has a remote servo fitted as standard! and if you think Scimitar brakes are bad you should try driving a Rebel!

 

My main reason fitting electronic ignition is mainly for easy maintenance, I've still got the standard autochoke on mine and it has always been a bit of a pig to start from cold. So having a car that goes first turn of the key without pumping the accelerator and swearing is actually a bit of a shock.

 

I'm also aware that over the last 4 years I've not given the points and condenser as much love as I possibly could have... My engine has the improved Bosch distributor which is a bit awkward to get the condenser out of due to an external screw, the close proximity to the carb and lots of autochoke hoses running in the area which make it impossible to get a screwdriver in there. I also think that the scimitars hot engine bay temperatures take their toll on the condensers.

 

Todays run seemed pretty good, I suppose I'll have to wait and see if any of the other claimed improvements are noticeable over the next few weeks.

  • Like 1
Posted

OkZzeWs.png

 

In an attempt to get the Volvo to run better on veg I've advanced the injection timing - so far it seems a lot better, starting readily from cold on a strong mix of veg with less spluttering.

Unlike the 4-cylinder VAG TDIs the 5-cylinder engine isn't so keen on veg, if this doesn't work out long term I might convert it to a twin tank setup. Or buy skattrd's C250 TD, or just sign up for a new Dacia on finance.

 

Easier than twin-tanking is fitting an engine heater, running off the mains. If you can trail a wire out to the car wherever it's left.

  • Like 1
Posted

Took The Saab to a local tyre & exhaust place (F1 Autocentres) in order to have its aircon/climate control recharged. Sadly, it couldn't be done, as when it was pressurised, the system was found to have a big leak where some pipes go into the compressor, possibly due to degraded seals :(

 

Also, the condensor is quite gnarly, but it held pressure, but it really needs be replaced, as most of the cooling fins at the bottom have rusted away. I have a good used replacement from a Saab breaker in mind for that, which I'll have fitted at the same time I have the leak properly diagnosed and repaired - the car is a keeper and I'd really like to have the aircon/climate control in working order before the summer's out. I'll discuss the repair with my local garage when I take the car in for its MOT in a couple of weeks, as they can do aircon repairs.

 

The best thing is that I wasn't charged for the diagnosis, let alone the recharge, which absolutely wasn't going to happen today. Also, the bloke who dealt with the car said that it was nice. Thanks, mate! :-D

  • Like 2
Posted

post-19541-0-77265200-1436290057_thumb.jpg

 

This appeared on my local sale/swap page.

It is 1969 and what he wants is ridiculous (he said it's worth £15k) but he wants quick sale. Ticket until mid August. Apparently all welded up.

Will go and have a look tomorrow, probably make a stupid offer but happy to pass over any info to anybody interested.

 

post-19541-0-04099800-1436290403_thumb.jpg

Posted

^ Ideal for painting matt black for that moody look

  • Like 2
Posted

Took A6 for it's MOT which it passed with no advisories.

 

Fitted a set of mudflaps to the focus - they make the car look much better, however the wheels were corroded to the hubs - hot water unstuck them.

 

My dad is fitting a new kitchen, went round to lend a hand,cutting a channel in the wall for a water pipe with an SDS breaker he did not notice a cable buried in the plaster until he cut through it.

 

Surprising the bang that a domestic supply can make and good that modern houses are wired to prevent you being killed. He didnt even have hair like Don King.

Posted

 

I hate cars, I was going to take the MGB GT out this evening for a nice run to a MG meeting in Pinner, 100mile round trip just right for a summers evening and now it won't start. This time I can't hear the petrol pump working.

Posted

This appeared on my local sale/swap page.

It is 1969 and what he wants is ridiculous (he said it's worth £15k) but he wants quick sale. Ticket until mid August. Apparently all welded up.

Will go and have a look tomorrow, probably make a stupid offer but happy to pass over any info to anybody interested.

Worth £1500 on a good day assuming it's all solid and runs nicely.

 

 

Got a filter and oil change done on the 1300 today in a vain attempt to stop the oil light from flickering, engine still makes horrendous knocking sounds, it's only a matter of time. Also still has no exhaust, I bought a downpipe from a company with a name rhyming with "Bimmer Rros", have been told it's so wrong it'd be practically impossible to reshape and I can't return it because I've had it over 28 days so am now £55 down and need to shell out £100 for a custom made downpipe in stainless.

 

Current plan is to cut it up, hammer it flat and fashion it into repair plates for the 1850's chassis legs...

 

I also gave the engine bay a wipe down with a rag, didn't realise just how grimey it was, now it looks much better. Also noticed the big air hose for the heater blower had come off the bulkhead which might explain why the de-fogging is so fucking dire...

Posted

I hate cars, I was going to take the MGB GT out this evening for a nice run to a MG meeting in Pinner, 100mile round trip just right for a summers evening and now it won't start. This time I can't hear the petrol pump working.

'it it wit an 'ammer! a gentle tap* can often free a stuck oump

Posted

Owner called me and I just came back from viewing it.

He wants £1,200. Apparently it was a part of swap deal and he knocked off £1,500 as part exchange.

Paintwork is cracked all over, patched and pretty much every panel needs some serious work. If he doesn't move it out of that growing grass, it will be eaten very quickly.

Engine has a leak and he unfortunately couldn't start it up. MOT runs out in a month but there was only one silly advisory on the previous one.

 

I've made him a stupid offer that was countered by telling me that he already said no to an offer double of mine.

 

Ah well.

Posted

Owner called me and I just came back from viewing it

Worth £600 on a good day assuming he can get the thing to run...

  • Like 1
Posted

The scimitar already has a remote servo fitted as standard! and if you think Scimitar brakes are bad you should try driving a Rebel!

 

My main reason fitting electronic ignition is mainly for easy maintenance, I've still got the standard autochoke on mine and it has always been a bit of a pig to start from cold. So having a car that goes first turn of the key without pumping the accelerator and swearing is actually a bit of a shock.

 

I'm also aware that over the last 4 years I've not given the points and condenser as much love as I possibly could have... My engine has the improved Bosch distributor which is a bit awkward to get the condenser out of due to an external screw, the close proximity to the carb and lots of autochoke hoses running in the area which make it impossible to get a screwdriver in there. I also think that the scimitars hot engine bay temperatures take their toll on the condensers.

 

Todays run seemed pretty good, I suppose I'll have to wait and see if any of the other claimed improvements are noticeable over the next few weeks.

I put an electronic ignition kit on my Mercury and it made a big improvement even on a car with what turned out to have a badly worn engine. Starting up was miles better.

I'm going to get one for my Capri at some point (Ford dizzy). The points and condenser in that have been untouched for years, I only change them now if they fail. Apparently new ones are crap quality and might even be faulty out of the box. The best thing IMHO is to get rid of them altogether if possible.

Posted

Which of these electronic ignition kits is the one to go for?

 

I'm thinking of fitting one to the SD1

  • Like 1
Posted

Managed to release the seat base of the Princess from its slanty locked down in the front corner position. The tilt lever seems to only work on a toothed pawl on the rear of the seat but the front also has the toothed pawl. The one on the left of the seat had somehow got locked onto the bottom tooth. A little persuasion with a screwdriver freed it.

 

2re2mhu.jpg

 

Seats went back in, what total bastards. Trying to get the bolt to go through the seat washer and floor was a total pain in the 'arris.

After squashing fingers and having three bolts that went tight well before reaching the seat to it wobbled the bolts were swapped for Metro ones from the spare bolts tub which have a locating bit at the end of the bolt to start you off.

 

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2m4xf85.jpgP

 

Purple heaven.

 

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Also fixed the connector I forgor to take off the seat when removing it so pulling the fasten seat belts light sensor wires out with bullet connectors. Need to find the replacement steering column we acquired but have since lost or a replacement ignition barrel as the car came without one. After that sort an exhaust (new front section is here but need to find a back section) and whack her in for an MoT. The wheel arches will need repair but want to see what else they find first.

 

Also Peter's Metro City X was weled by our local tame (and cheap) welder.

The front valance was a little frilly and there was a gapping hole in the driver's floor. Once cut out the Jacking point fell off, this was also rusty beyond redemption so replaced with fresh box section.

 

20glfcx.jpg

 

 

f3fgnr.jpg

  • Like 7
Posted

Top tip on the Metro seat bolts.  I use the tiniest bit of copper grease to help the Princess ones go in properly and come out easier when I inevitably take the seats out AGAIN.

  • Like 1
Posted

Which of these electronic ignition kits is the one to go for?

 

I'm thinking of fitting one to the SD1

Couldn't say which is best, there's lots of manufacturers and different types.

I've got a Pertronix set up in the Mercury, it was a bit more expensive than some others but it seemed to fit very well and really was piss easy to install.

 

There's some Rover SD1 ones on here:

http://www.simonbbc.com/electronic-ignition-kits?sort=20a&filter_id=19

 

Accuspark:

http://www.accuspark.co.uk/?gclid=CJnNmPDwycYCFaPnwgodTlYDog

Posted

I did another video. I reckon it needs more cutting to different angles. Was going to head out to get those shots earlier, but miraculously, it wasn't raining. CONTINUITY FAIL.

  • Like 3
Posted

Have used Accuspark before and would recommend. 

Posted

Lets have a look at what I saw on the M40 on the way home.

 

Smoke

18882600564_d2b21d51f9_b.jpg

 

 

The Fire crew turn up (I was 7th in the row when the road was closed)

18882599224_f2b857ce71_b.jpg

 

 

They ran out of water so had to order one of these

19317164830_301426634e_b.jpg

 

 

Which turned up on the Southbound carrageway

19509309171_dce11fded3_b.jpg

 

 

Eventually (after another reload from the water tender) then the coach was damped down

19505092655_a828914efe_b.jpg

 

 

That was an extra hour of entertainment that I wasn't expecting.

  • Like 1
Posted

That looks suspiciously like a coach on fire.

 

(well obviously not the hear)

Posted

Nugget the Corsa's radio started working.  HOORAY!  Then it didn't.  Then it did, but only after it had been on for a few minutes.  Then it didn't.  Then it worked fine again.  Mike's still trying to figure this one out.  He had the fuses out and checked connections, all seems as it should be and refitting the fuses saw immediate working of the radio before it went back to being randomly intermittent.

 

 

Xantia has two brake niggles, and I got some suggestions as to what might be amiss.  Once a month for about 3 seconds the brake pedal will judder underfoot almost but not quite like the ABS coming on.  Suggestion here is that it could be a cracked ABS ring.  The other niggle is the first brake of the day doesn't always result in any braking at all, that's been suggested to be a loose or damaged vacuum pipe from the diesel equivalent of the brake servo.  Both things to investigate.  The niggles are so rare and cause no issue that I've not investigated further just yet.

Posted

erm, the Xantia doesn't have a brake servo. or vacuum pipes. I'd be looking at the no baking rather pronto as it'll be hydraulic related

Posted

Lets have a look at what I saw on the M40 on the way home.

 

Smoke

18882600564_d2b21d51f9_b.jpg

 

 

The Fire crew turn up (I was 7th in the row when the road was closed)

18882599224_f2b857ce71_b.jpg

 

 

They ran out of water so had to order one of these

19317164830_301426634e_b.jpg

 

 

Which turned up on the Southbound carrageway

19509309171_dce11fded3_b.jpg

 

 

Eventually (after another reload from the water tender) then the coach was damped down

19505092655_a828914efe_b.jpg

 

 

That was an extra hour of entertainment that I wasn't expecting.

 

Was the coach hogging the middle lane perchance?   

  • Like 2

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