The new news 24 thread

[MrDuke]

I didn't know so much power could be extracted out of a 1.3l. What work do you need to do, to get that?

 

I have a massive urge for a sprint, but they're a bit pricey. Aren't the 1.3l mostly wrong wheel drive and square lights, not round?

No, Dolly 1.3s are all RWD - Toledos are FWD. Both have square lights.

 

For that kind of power you'd need huge carbs, race cam, fancy exhaust etc. I reckon a figure of 90-100 bhp would be a more sensible goal, not mega-expensive to do, and the engine would still be genuinely bombproof.

[beko1987]

I think most manufacturers tend to use a standard RAL colour for their appliances and give it a poncy name or, if not, there will be a RAL colour that is close.

Does it need to be an exact match for touch ups or are you painting the whole thing, in which case near enough may be good enough?

If you can get hold of a RAL colour chart you could find the nearest match and order it using the RAL number.

 

If you buy it in an aerosol will it be a ral can?

Spraying the whole thing so close enough is fine. It'll upset the hardcore collectors but fuck em. I just don't want to keep buying random cans and hoping, if someone can scan the actual colour in and get 85.7% of it spot on that'll be easier! Will post about on Facebook locally first when I get some money and see what's about

[catsinthewelder]

We left Ludlow at 6am and broke down just before Exeter about 10am after just over 3 hours driving,  30 mins stuck in traffic and a services stop.  2 hours on hard shoulder 15 min tow to Exeter services 2 and a bit hour wait for a fresh drivers shift to start then 56mph all the way back up the motorway.  I imagine that getting a car back would have been a lot quicker than a 3.5T 4x4 van.

[SiC]

No, Dolly 1.3s are all RWD - Toledos are FWD. Both have square lights.

 

For that kind of power you'd need huge carbs, race cam, fancy exhaust etc. I reckon a figure of 90-100 bhp would be a more sensible goal, not mega-expensive to do, and the engine would still be genuinely bombproof.

Can the round light front end be retrofitted and a straight swap? I guess parts are a bit more difficult nowadays.

[Ghosty]

It's just grilles isn't it?

[MrDuke]

Nope - you need the rear mounting panel from a twin-lamp car (and the grilles obv). The square lamps are noticeably better at lighting up the road, and the round lamps are an odd size (I think BMW E30s are the same?) but most people seem to prefer them.

 

The owners club sell a massive range of panels, and they're decent quality by pattern standards. Other parts are still dead easy to come by - every single Dolomite had exactly the same body shell, with the same mounting points, so a huge number of components can be interchanged between models.

[Inspector Morose]

Toledos were RWD and had a truncated arse. The Dolly 1300 was built to replace the Toledo using a common body shell as the other Dolomites.

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Indeed, around 130bhp can be obtained with a stock bottom end. Like a Sprint, only without all the hours spent trying to keep it running.

If anyone can get more than about 5000 miles out of a Triumph 1300 engine souped up to 120bhp I will eat my flat cap

[Pillock]

The only other 1300 I know that can make 130bhp has a supercharger and various tweaks.

 

A Dolly making that power sounds utterly overstressed.

[captain_70s]

If anyone can get more than about 5000 miles out of a Triumph 1300 engine souped up to 120bhp I will eat my flat cap

As the owner of a Dolly 1300 I'll eat my flat cap if anyone can get 2,500 miles out of a 120bhp 1300!

 

65-70bhp mated to a 1500's O/D gearbox would be a much more reasonable and usable goal...

 

Swapping square lights for round is possible but requires cutting/welding work and the round lights are worse at their job. Also then you wouldn't share your lights with such noble vehicles as the Allegro or poverty spec Avenger...

[cobblers]

100bhp/litre is good going for a 1980s engine, with a turbo. 

100bhp/litre on a N/A 1960s engine is something I would really like to see.

[SiC]

It seems to need to be putting out 110-115bhp to be similar bhp-per-tonne. But I guess it'd be quicker off the line due to gearing - gearing is different between the two.

 

The 1500 doesn't appear to have a good record for tunability. However it does appear to be more torquey thanks to the bore/stroke ratio. Apparently almost diesel like.

[Guest Hooli]

I think the 1500 is the same as Spitfire/Midget 1500s, which means it's an A series without the reversed head and the original 803cc sized three crank bearings.

[Guest Hooli]

Yes, as I understand it the Triumph engine was based on the same design as the A series, hence my comment.

[somewhatfoolish]

Spraying the whole thing so close enough is fine. It'll upset the hardcore collectors but fuck em. I just don't want to keep buying random cans and hoping, if someone can scan the actual colour in and get 85.7% of it spot on that'll be easier! Will post about on Facebook locally first when I get some money and see what's about

You can get colour scanning apps for smart phones, or for a more calibrated colour match decent paint shops will have a gadget to scan your hoover. An ancient thread about it on pistonheads.

 

The trumpet 1300 was stretched into the 1500 and dropped into the Midget; it's a pretty mediocre engine with a marginal bottom end, tuning them heavily will cause fragging. Nothing to do with the A series at all other than both being produced by the same dysfunctional corporation.

 

As Sprints are in the non-AS price range these days, the 1850 is a better bet; 90% of the performance can be had and arguably less danger of OMGHGF and associated hazards. Uprated brakes might be needed if you use the performance though, as I think the Sprint had uprated brakes(TR6?) over the other Dollys.

[Eddie Honda]

The 1500 doesn't appear to have a good record for anything

FTFY. It's a crock of shite.

[Guest Hooli]

Having said all that I had a 1500 Midget for 9 years & I got it when I was 21. You can guess how a young bloke drove a RWD sports car by the fact I had to replace a halfshaft and a diff two years apart that both blew sideways around the same corner. Never a spot of problem with the engine & I put a lot of miles on it in that time.

[SiC]

You can get colour scanning apps for smart phones, or for a more calibrated colour match decent paint shops will have a gadget to scan your hoover. An ancient thread about it on pistonheads.

 

The trumpet 1300 was stretched into the 1500 and dropped into the Midget; it's a pretty mediocre engine with a marginal bottom end, tuning them heavily will cause fragging. Nothing to do with the A series at all other than both being produced by the same dysfunctional corporation.

 

As Sprints are in the non-AS price range these days, the 1850 is a better bet; 90% of the performance can be had and arguably less danger of OMGHGF and associated hazards. Uprated brakes might be needed if you use the performance though, as I think the Sprint had uprated brakes(TR6?) over the other Dollys.

I have seen sprints going for the 6-7k mark on eBay. Not cheap, cheap but still not ridiculous amount (imo). A lot of them appear to be well cared for too.

 

Shame the 1500 isn't any good, as you can pick them up for reasonable monies. E.g.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F122741811723

 

There was a red one on recently too for similar.

 

Not sure if it's the angle of them but the square lighted cars look depressed.

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/332404658719

 

How well do they all actually handle? I assume much better than a MGB GT?

[BorniteIdentity]

Unfortunately, he deleted his post pretty swiftly.

 

Fortunately, not before I captured it.  

 

Fucking ace.

 

[Justin Case]

As Sprints are in the non-AS price range these days, the 1850 is a better bet; 90% of the performance can be had and arguably less danger of OMGHGF and associated hazards. Uprated brakes might be needed if you use the performance though, as I think the Sprint had uprated brakes(TR6?) over the other Dollys.

The 1850cc Dolomite engine is not recommended. It is the same as the earlier Saab 99 engine (or is it the other way round.) The timing chain is made of elastic and as the cylinder head bolts go into the block at an angle, HGF is always lurking in the background Would it possible to arrange a marriage between the top half of a Saab B series engine and the bottom half of a Dolomite engine. 145 BHP just by bolting on a turbo

[stuboy]

Thought id check the pollen filter.... oh...

[Supernaut]

So what was wrong with catsinthewelder's van? I'm rather intrigued now.

[Guest Hooli]

I believe a lot of bits that should be inside are now outside, starting with the oil.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'd like to know too.

[captain_70s]

How well do they all actually handle? I assume much better than a MGB GT?

The low powered cars an infinitely chuckable but are no match for a modern car. With my 1300 light understeer was the order of the day with the occasional 4 wheel drift as the 155/80s tried to find grip, body roll is hilarious by modern standards but seems to have little effect on the car's ability to stay on the road, the Dolly forum said that things get scary long before they get dangerous, I'd agree. With a healthy, stock 1300 motor spirited driving involves finding a narrow and windy road and keeping the accelerator pinned to the floor while never actually getting above 50mph, all the power lives at the top end so 3rd gear at 4,000rpm+ and speed conservation are your friends.

 

The 1850 is another beast. Much more torque at the low end, wheel spin starts can be achieved without even trying in wet conditions. The PO really used to fling it about but I was too chicken, used mine as a comfortable, economical cruiser. To be fair I fucked the steering by coming off a roundabout backwards after owning it a week, they're probably better when the steering doesn't feature 2+ inches of play... I was painfully aware of the fact that if the arse stepped out I'd never be able to catch it, although the Dolomite steering is usually very tight and accurate, great road feel, as evidenced by the 1300.

Having said that it was still great to take advantage of the torque, sat at 60 in top gear and stamping the go pedal would get you to terrifying speeds in a satisfyingly loud and rapid manner.

 

The 1850 isn't really all that fragile, there are two main problems. Water pumps start failing are are a pain to replace, this also causes overheating which is the downfall of the Triumph slant-4. If you cook a head gasket taking the head off can be an utter nightmare as the studs really enjoy snapping, it's do-able but I opted for buying a whole spare engine rather than ever try and take mine apart! The second thing is the timing chain, a good chain and tensioner will last about 60k, however a lot of cars are fitted with a Rolon chain/tensioner kit which are famously made of chocolate and can and will fail within a couple of thousand miles...

 

The 1300 lump is the same as the Spitfire/Herald unit (mostly), all the parts are available and it's insultingly easy to work on. The only thing to watch for is ensuring it's getting good oil flow and that the bottom end isn't rumbling, rebuilds tend to occur at about 100k or so depending on use. They are also low geared, 60mph in top is damn near 4000rpm, but you'll never know 'cause there is no rev counter!

 

The 1500 is a 50mph plodder, use the torque to keep the revs low and they'll last just fine. Extended use higher up the rev range causes the big end bearings to vanish at an alarming rate, and overdrive gearbox helps a lot.

[3VOM]

Eric the car guy has new car :

1994 Acura Legend Coupe Type II 6 Speed !

[SiC]

The low powered cars an infinitely chuckable but are no match for a modern car. With my 1300 light understeer was the order of the day with the occasional 4 wheel drift as the 155/80s tried to find grip, body roll is hilarious by modern standards but seems to have little effect on the car's ability to stay on the road, the Dolly forum said that things get scary long before they get dangerous, I'd agree. With a healthy, stock 1300 motor spirited driving involves finding a narrow and windy road and keeping the accelerator pinned to the floor while never actually getting above 50mph, all the power lives at the top end so 3rd gear at 4,000rpm+ and speed conservation are your friends.

 

The 1850 is another beast. Much more torque at the low end, wheel spin starts can be achieved without even trying in wet conditions. The PO really used to fling it about but I was too chicken, used mine as a comfortable, economical cruiser. To be fair I fucked the steering by coming off a roundabout backwards after owning it a week, they're probably better when the steering doesn't feature 2+ inches of play... I was painfully aware of the fact that if the arse stepped out I'd never be able to catch it, although the Dolomite steering is usually very tight and accurate, great road feel, as evidenced by the 1300.

Having said that it was still great to take advantage of the torque, sat at 60 in top gear and stamping the go pedal would get you to terrifying speeds in a satisfyingly loud and rapid manner.

 

The 1850 isn't really all that fragile, there are two main problems. Water pumps start failing are are a pain to replace, this also causes overheating which is the downfall of the Triumph slant-4. If you cook a head gasket taking the head off can be an utter nightmare as the studs really enjoy snapping, it's do-able but I opted for buying a whole spare engine rather than ever try and take mine apart! The second thing is the timing chain, a good chain and tensioner will last about 60k, however a lot of cars are fitted with a Rolon chain/tensioner kit which are famously made of chocolate and can and will fail within a couple of thousand miles...

 

The 1300 lump is the same as the Spitfire/Herald unit (mostly), all the parts are available and it's insultingly easy to work on. The only thing to watch for is ensuring it's getting good oil flow and that the bottom end isn't rumbling, rebuilds tend to occur at about 100k or so depending on use. They are also low geared, 60mph in top is damn near 4000rpm, but you'll never know 'cause there is no rev counter!

 

The 1500 is a 50mph plodder, use the torque to keep the revs low and they'll last just fine. Extended use higher up the rev range causes the big end bearings to vanish at an alarming rate, and overdrive gearbox helps a lot.

 

You're not helping my want for one of them. I just wished I had more room ... which probably is a good thing I don't.

[captain_70s]

You're not helping my want for one of them. I just wished I had more room ... which probably is a good thing I don't.

On the flipside all the metalwork is like tin foil, sills and A pillars rot from the inside out, door skins are a service item and every bolt and fixing on the underside will snap long before it considers undoing. Also the front end is one big rust trap and every panel is welded, rather than bolted, on so replacement is a pain in the arse.

[SiC]

On the flipside all the metalwork is like tin foil, sills and A pillars rot from the inside out, door skins are a service item and every bolt and fixing on the underside will snap long before it considers undoing. Also the front end is one big rust trap and every panel is welded, rather than bolted, on so replacement is a pain in the arse.

So buying one like this is a recipe for a really bad time?!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Dolomite-1850-Automatic-1974-Spares-repair-Restoration-project/332403717111

[Exiled_Tat_Gatherer]

On that one - from the photo's

Bulkhead shot

Sills both gone

Boot floor not looking good

Front wing, inner and h-lamp mounting panel all in various states of gone-itude......

Doors will be naffed

inner sills and floor probably totally shot too - as seals will never be water tight (none of mine have been - even new/replaced)

 

Sadly - they are one of those cars that always seem to be in the price bracket of - totally restored and hence silly-bids-only thanks or never looked after and money-pit/soul draining temptresses of Leyland goodness......... I always always seem to pick the latter ones up, bit like real life really

[drum]

I got some slabs FOC a while back and decided to make some use of them today.