Sold 1972 Austin 1100 - SOLD

[wuvvum]

Lack of securing catch on front seats is a standard thing on BL tat over a certain age.  The A35s never had them.  I've never had one tip up on me, although admittedly A35 brakes are unlikely to provide enough G-force for that to be an issue. 

 

I think the theory (on an 1100 at least) is the seat is kept in place by your arse, and your arse is kept in place by the seatbelt.

[vulgalour]

The floors are mostly original and where I'd expect any sort of catch, one doesn't exist.  I am told this is normal for ADO16.  Hopefully my arse and the seatbelt will be enough to counteract the raw power of the disc brakes up front!

 

You can't push that bracket on the seat frame, it's like it's missing the bit that goes in it that you push, if that makes sense?

[Momentary Lapse Of Reason]

I don't think that there was any other adjuster other than what you have got (as described by Mally)

And Wuvvum is spot on about the seat catches.

 

Could you do a photo of the front of the seat where the bit you describe as "it's like it's missing the bit that goes in it that you push" please?

(Sometimes bits could break off that sort of adjuster back in the day).

[vulgalour]

What you see in the photo is what there is, there's nothing else to take a photo of.  I keep meaning to look in the user manual and keep forgetting, that should have the info in it I suppose.

[Bianconeri]

Very sadly I can remember this issue from when I was a youngster. My Mum had a 4 door Austin 1100 (BDG871B, how sad that I can remember that but not what I had for lunch). My Dad made some brackets to prevent the front seats from tipping, I suppose they used the same ones as in 2 door cars. These anchored the back of the seat runners to the floor so that little sister's car seat could be attached safely* to the front seat.

 

Later ones had a plunger arrangement on the "outside" of the seat if memory serves.

 

Mum also had another ADO16, an MG that went really well, 371LAC, but the rear subframe fell out......

[Tickman]

Vulg, the seat adjuster looks the same as a Morris Minor one, the saw toothed but is the every day adjustment available. 

As you sit in the seat you pull up the lever and then push back or shuffle the seat forward.

[vulgalour]

Then I am missing a lever, because there is no lever.

[Noel Tidybeard]

yes as has been sai the adjuster is there same as on a mini until about '75/'76 when someone decided that the seats needed to latch in the down position

[Tickman]

Then I am missing a lever, because there is no lever.

On the Minor the toothed bit at the end the bar is twisted 90 degrees and that is the 'lever' 

[Noel Tidybeard]

exhibit "A" mini seat frame

.

[Christine]

 

If i remember , gravity/ friction holds this bit down .(Maybe a torsion spring on its pivot?)  You lift it and scoot yer bum forward ..or back..

Sometimes when you let a passenger out and tilt the seat ,   gravity lifts the ratchet and the seat goes to max forward position....keep ya fingers out of it! and then you've got to adjust the seat all over again !

 

  Think this type is like early mini with clamps to hold the front on the x member

 

 Thats the bit you lift , shuffle it forward or back with ya arse

 

Bear in mind the pivot works in an arc, so the rake of the seat alters as well as fore / aft

[vulgalour]

Those pictures really help illustrate what's potentially wrong, I'm guessing they either cheapened the design or a handy lifting tab has snapped off.  I'll have a go at seeing if I can get the seat to move when it's bolted down properly and be careful not to trap fingers in the process.

[PhilA]

I saw this and my immediate thought was "What has a big headlight pod got to do with seat adjusters?"

 

 

Phil

[Christine]

Yes .  

 Little known fact, 1100 seat was styled on  1959 Ariel Leader  headlight  ! 

 

 

 

[Mally]

There is a spring on your lever, you can just make it out on the photo.

Try mole grips on the slotted bar or hit it with a hammer.

I'd do it whilst its off first, but mind fingers.

 

As an aside a bloke near me has a Leader in his garage alongside many others.

[DodgeRover]

Have you seen this ad?

 

http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/198918/bmc-1100-1300-ado16-panels

[vulgalour]

Yes, unfortunately no use to me.

[Christine]

Vulg has the coupe version 

[DodgeRover]

Ah well at least we are all thinking of him

[Eddie Honda]

Now you can see why I was confused 2 pages back. The seat adjusters were there all along. Without unnecessarily pissing about butchering the frames, the adjusters don't just go walkabout being integral to the frame.

 

Here's the cut-away sketch from the MG driver's handbook (I would say the sketch isn't that true-to-life and the adjust tab is about a finger's width, they can be stiff to operate and need lubing/freeing off):

 

 

From memory there are 3 threaded nuts per plate (2 plates per seat) in the seat mounting floor crossmember (top hat section welded cross the floor). Front/middle pair for shorties, middle/rear pair for longies.

 

Yes, the front seat frames tip forward, even on the four door models. If you get hold of driver's handbook / workshop manual you'll see that in some export markets, they had a catch and strip of metal welded to the inner sill to stop the seat tipping.

[Rod/b]

Yo Angyl, Expressed Steel have got a sale on Trumpets, down from 94 quid plus VAT to 75 inclusive.

 

http://www.steelpanels.co.uk/category/bmc/austin-1100/engine-compartment-austin-1100/

[Rod/b]

(Still spenny but might save you some heartache)

[vulgalour]

Thanks for the tip off, it would save a lot of work to just chuck a fresh one on.  Going to have to wait a bit, got to save some pennies for that and other things like the sill panels.

[spartacus]

Props to you Vulg. It would take all that time just to type up what I've done.

You're flying with this.

[vulgalour]

I'm as shocked as anyone on the speed of progress.  I was going to be doing some more today but other things got in the way. Might not get more welding time in again until Tuesday.  Thought it might be an idea to note down my to-do list here so I can start checking things off it.

 

Bodywork

Driver's side

- bulkhead repair behind inner wing and trumpet panels DONE

- front inner wing to repair above displacer and at front subframe mounting point (panel arrived)

- front inner wing "trumpet" to replace (panel arrived, almost finished fitting)

- finish removing remnants of old front outer wing DONE

- minor repair on replacement front outer wing

- fit front outer wing

- repair outer edges of front bumper shelf

- Front floor pan repairs (panel arrived)

- small hole to investigate and repair on lower inner wing to floor join DONE

- front subframe mount on heelboard to investigate and repair if required.

- bulkhead mounting point for heater to repair

- inner sill.  Some very small patches to finish

- sill closing panel to buy and attach

- rear lower outer wing/arch area to replace

- boot floor to inner wing section to repair

- rear boot floor seam to clean and repair as necessary

Passenger side

- boot floor to inner wing section to repair DONE

- rear subframe mount to investigate and improve previous repair if necessary DONE no repair necessary

- filler below B pillar to investigate on outer sill, potentially patch using parts of spare partial outer sill investigated, rot in sill to repair

- small section of front closing panel of outer sill to inner wing to repair

- sill closing panel to buy and attach

- Headlight section of front outer wing to replace DONE

- Upper trailing edge of wing to replace DONE

- lower trailing edge of front outer wing to replace DONE

- lower leading edge of front outer wing to replace DONE

 

Mechanical and Electrical

- repair wiring loom where I accidentally sliced through it DONE

- Identify and re-instate wiring DONE

- Identify non-starting issue DONE cleaned points, replaced starter motor and coil.

- Identify cause of inoperable horn and indicators.  Potentially replace horn and indicator relay.  Potentially dismantle and/or clean column stalk to resolve connections

- Obtain and fit correct battery, current one much too large

- acquire good set of tyres, all five current tyres are perished.  Car currently wearing 165/70/12 on one axle and 155/R12 on the other axle

- flush and replace coolant

- fit new throttle cable DONE

- if good, refit choke cable DONE

- bleed clutch.  If needed, acquire rebuild kit or replacement clutch cylinder (ordered replacement cylinder) DONE

- unseize and rebuild or replace clutch master cylinder

- replace missing brake line

- bleed brakes

 

Cosmetic

- repair and retrim door cards

- repair and retrim parcel shelf

- acquire and fit new carpetting

- apply paint where required

 

The vast majority of the work is welding on this car.  It's quite a small car so even very large repairs don't take very long.  I'll be trying to get in at least every other day and spend a couple of hours putting new metal in wherever I can while I save up for the bigger panels I'll need.  Tyres (£150ish?), new repair panels (£200ish?), MoT (£50ish), and the battery (£50ish?) are going to be the biggest expenses.  It's not too scary, cost-wise.

[Felly Magic]

Lets hope there are no nasty surprises along the way, and this beast will be back on the road soon. Looking forward to further updates on this Angyl 

[michael1703]

Why, ambassador with all these updates, you're really spoiling us!

[vulgalour]

Another day, another update.  Today, the inner wing and Mini floor pan arrived.  A little later, the throttle cable arrived.  Fitting the throttle cable and refitting the choke cable went smoothly and the electrics no longer attempt to earth through those.  Also, the car decided it was going to start on the ignition key just fine today without us touching anything.  Because ADO16 on that one I reckon.  The floor pan is plenty big enough and while it is for the opposite side of a Mini, it'll do just fine for this car.  The inner wing only repairs the upper half of the inner wing but again, this is not a problem because that's all I need and it was CHEAP.

20170717-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

20170717-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

I then spend a very, very long time with thinners, brushes and a wire brush in a drill cleaning off the underseal and old paint and loose rust.  This took forever and the unit is like an oven today.  No horrors unearthed, overall there was more good metal still there than expected.  I gave it all a coat of zinc primer  so it doesn't flash rust, this is easy to take back when I do the repairs and a good way of temporarily stabilising things since I'm not entirely sure how long this repair is going to take me to complete.

20170717-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

20170717-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

20170717-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

 

Then I ran out of time.  I'm planning to go in tomorrow and finish the clean up on this inner wing.  In all honesty, it was simply too hot to be doing welding today, I was sweating cobs just in casual work clothes, there's no way I wanted to be wrapped up in all my welding gear.  I reckon by the end of this week I should have this inner wing at least pieced together, if not finished.

 

 

The last things to note is that the clutch slave cylinder is indeed in need of replacement since it's stuck solid and there isn't anything missing on the front seat adjusters after all.  The seats do adjust with a tiny little lever, as pointed out to me by various folks, and I was just over thinking it.

[BeEP]

A minor point from a newbie here but one who has owned ADO16s continuosly for the last 22 years (where did that time go?).....  whereas the Mk2 1100 deluxe had carpets, the Mk3 such as yours only had rubber matting on the floors.  I have an identical spec car in limeflower which rewarded me for getting it through its MOT earlier in the month by bursting a hydrolastic pipe above the rear subframe.

 

I may also have an offside trumpet panel I'd be prepared to sell for not a lot as your need looks to be greater than mine!  Won't be able to check until Wednesday but will let you know.

 

As everyone likes pictures:

 

[vulgalour]

Yes please to the trumpet!  If I can get one for less than £90 I'd be a very happy chappy.  I did think rubber matting was a likely option for a base spec, thing is carpet is going to be cheaper to install I reckon.  Limeflower is so much nicer than Harvest Gold, that's a weird colour BLMC got right at least.  Do you know where I might get new or good used indicator/sidelight backing plates from?  Mine are not in great shape at all.