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Posted
I think that during the excitement on here the most important thing has been overlooked.

 

I've ran out of butteries. 
Posted

I always read that as batteries. Like a car repairing Energizer Bunny ... same thing I guess but just powered by butties.

Posted

Oh no. Oh no no no. They aren't butties at all.

 

Butteries are made of, well, lard and salt. Pretty much. Apparently two of them is your full RDA of fat and salt. They truly are a Scottish kind of food.

Posted

Fucked bush is fucked. This is with the bolt tight

 

 

Annoyingly I'll have to remove the whole arm to replace it.

  • Like 3
Posted

That bush is shocking, is it worth a quick email to the place I bought the wishbones from ? The invoice should be with the rest of the paperwork.

 

At least you shouldn't need to fight with rusted bolts to swap it over.

Posted

From above Tayne post - surely not fit for purpose - auto replace…… no pennies involved?

and now GM just above too

Posted

Let's see if we can get any joy out of this warranty then ?

 

 

Hi,

 

I purchased these wishbones on 5th September and had them fitted by my local garage for the mot on 11th September, mileage 181682. The bush on the drivers side appears to have failed and the wishbone has significant play in it. The car has covered only 2400 miles since fitting, would it be possible to have the wishbone replaced under warranty ?

 

A friend has taken a video of the failed bush

 

https://youtu.be/b5PTeK9dQ30

 

Many thanks,

 

Mark.

 

 

Posted

Hopefully the company making/supplying the part will just replace it - seems the most hassle free way for all concerned imo.

Posted

Hopefully the company making/supplying the part will just replace it - seems the most hassle free way for all concerned imo.

And if they cut up rough, it will be the bush fooker trial

Posted

After a bit of googling it looks like the head bolts on my engine are the same as the PD150-the 75bhp engine I have runs a massive compression ratio which may explain this.

 

It may still be worth a punt though, especially if i can get to the headbolts without removing too much. I think I'll get the coolant gauge working and fix the front suspension first though-it feels pretty horrible.

Just been doing some research on all this and been checking some part numbers.

 

Headbolts part numbers are

038103384 that's for the lower powered 4 pot engines pd100 to pd130, the 10.9 tensile strength versions. Also this is the same part number for the 3 pot tdi's with engine codes AMF, BHL and ATL, guessing yours is one of these.

 

The part number for the pd150 ARL 12.9 tensile strength is 038103384C. Same part number with the C at the end. The C denotes the stronger bolt.

 

Feel free to double check on here.

http://www.oemepc.com/audi/part_single/catalog/au/markt/RDW/modell/A2/year/2000/drive_standart/248/hg_ug/103/subcategory/103042/part_id/252639/lang/e#sec_17

 

http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/GOLF/year/2002/drive_standart/266/hg_ug/103/subcategory/103057/part_id/3685734/lang/e#sec_17

Posted

I've just sold the winter tyres I bought from GM for this.

The chap turned up in an A2 at the time stated, paid the money and left.

He'd told me his was modified to 130bhp and so i looked up the registration after he'd gone.

Its not been taxed since July when the Mot ran out!

Posted

I’m more bothered by the lack of an mot.

 

He knows it'll fail on the front bushes!

Posted

I've just sold the winter tyres I bought from GM for this.

The chap turned up in an A2 at the time stated, paid the money and left.

He'd told me his was modified to 130bhp and so i looked up the registration after he'd gone.

Its not been taxed since July when the Mot ran out!

 

I'd check the reg on Askmid. If it's not showing I'd be reporting him. 

Posted

Just been doing some research on all this and been checking some part numbers.

 

Headbolts part numbers are

038103384 that's for the lower powered 4 pot engines pd100 to pd130, the 10.9 tensile strength versions. Also this is the same part number for the 3 pot tdi's with engine codes AMF, BHL and ATL, guessing yours is one of these.

 

The part number for the pd150 ARL 12.9 tensile strength is 038103384C. Same part number with the C at the end. The C denotes the stronger bolt.

 

Feel free to double check on here.

http://www.oemepc.com/audi/part_single/catalog/au/markt/RDW/modell/A2/year/2000/drive_standart/248/hg_ug/103/subcategory/103042/part_id/252639/lang/e#sec_17

 

http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/GOLF/year/2002/drive_standart/266/hg_ug/103/subcategory/103057/part_id/3685734/lang/e#sec_17

 

Thanks for that Bigfella
 
I must confess I was relying on a friend who was looking it up as I was out and about-I guess he never noticed the C on the end.
 
*Warning* Stream of thought follows-feel free to advise on the sensible* option
 
From looking it does look like the head bolts are pretty accessible so it may be worth a try. 
 
If I do go down the head bolt route my thoughts would be to try standard bolts first, partly as they are half the price. 
My other reasoning for this is that is if new, standard bolts, fitted and torqued up correctly don't cure it then there is an issue beyond head bolts stretching/loosening through time. 
 
I might have a look at the timing belt first-there's no record of when it was last changed. If the timing belt needs done then that would lean me towards pulling the head off it anyway-once the belts off you're half way there. 
 
Coolant sensor should arrive today and I need to get myself a new balljoint splitter so I can get the fucked wishbone off. Any recomendations for a good one that can get into tight spaces?
Posted

I'd check the reg on Askmid. If it's not showing I'd be reporting him.

 

Already did, it was insured.

Posted

May well be insured but no MOT or tax when not driving to an MOT station for a pre-booked test surely has to be a potential killer of nuns and kittens? Also invalidates insurances?

Posted

I think your first plan was the best using the stronger bolts, don't forget most suppliers will be selling you ten bolts, I think you only need eight. And if the head does still need to come off I would rather reuse the 12.9's.

Not really looked hard at prices but these are £25 for 10, and this company would sell you eight, and they are genuine VW ones.

 

https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/pd150-arl-head-bolt-set-for-1-9-2-0-8v-tdi-pd-engines.html

 

The standard ones can't be much cheaper can they?

Posted

May well be insured but no MOT or tax when not driving to an MOT station for a pre-booked test surely has to be a potential killer of nuns and kittens? Also invalidates insurances?

 

Whilst not being a huge fan of nuns or kittens, it is a myth that no MOT or tax will invalidate insurance. If the car is unroadworthy, it might affect insurance on the car, but even that will not invalidate a third party claim

  • Like 1
Posted

I've got a short fork type ball joint splitter if it is of any use ? Has been used many times on the mx5s but tends to ruin the rubber boot in the process :(

 

 

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/laser-fork-ball-joint-separator-19mm/19907

 

Aye that's what I've go too and as you say it tends to wreck the boots. I'm expecting the worst from the ebay seller so would like to be able to reuse the arm with a new boot. Might have a quick nose and see what clearance is like for the fork type splitters.

Posted

Bought a scissor type splitter from Amazon- I need a new one anyway. It was cheap enough that I can grind it down if need be to fit. 

Posted

I think your first plan was the best using the stronger bolts, don't forget most suppliers will be selling you ten bolts, I think you only need eight. And if the head does still need to come off I would rather reuse the 12.9's.

Not really looked hard at prices but these are £25 for 10, and this company would sell you eight, and they are genuine VW ones.

 

https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/pd150-arl-head-bolt-set-for-1-9-2-0-8v-tdi-pd-engines.html

 

The standard ones can't be much cheaper can they?

 

Cheapest set of standard head bolts is about £14 posted for 8. Cheapest I've seen the 150 (ARL Engine code) ones is about £28 for 10. Individually they are more expensive. If the stronger ones can be reused I'd be tempted but a brief google says no. 

 

I suppose if I bought 10 and it didn't cure it I could compare the lengths of the two leftover ARL bolts to the one's I was taking out to see if they'd stretched.

Posted

A plan has been devised to help the little A2 approach adequate boost levels

 

post-17572-0-48597700-1542755153_thumb.png

  • Like 12

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