Jump to content

ZX 1.9td - Farewell faithfull steed!


Recommended Posts

Posted

attachicon.gifIMAG0126.jpg

 

Tis a nice sight! Hope it lasts too, my first brim so I can get used to the range!

 

you spoke to soon if it only lasted 16hrs :shock:  and half of them hours most would be sleeping

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Well on wednesday I sold this

 

post-5612-0-20526600-1409313536_thumb.jpg

 

post-5612-0-71449700-1409313546_thumb.jpg

 

So just now I went over to our local used tyre emporium and got these fitted to the wheels Vantman kindly sent me

 

post-5612-0-48184800-1409313586_thumb.jpg

 

They didnt have any 185/65/15s, so fitted

 

post-5612-0-35877100-1409313608_thumb.jpg

 

Which he said would be fine still

 

This is whats on there atm

 

post-5612-0-39477000-1409313627_thumb.jpg

 

Should be ok shouldn't it? Will find out on Sunday when I get round to fitting the wheels to the car, and some other tasks! As a bonus both tyres are makes I've never heard of!

 

I then went to asda and bought some baccy, a heinz bacon and bean slice and a mcdonalds milkshake with the leftover money. Good old Dyson! (was a freebie too)

  • Like 2
Posted

175/65/14 and 185/60/14 have very similar diameters, you'll be fine.

 

I can't make out the brands on those pictures, I hope you kept the Autoshite tradition by buying the finest* Chinese remoulds available !

Posted

Havent checked the makes fully, the sun was shining into the boot so couldnt get a smudge, will see what they are when I get them fitted!

Posted

That's the way to go about it !!!

 

My new* 'Over is still on its original 1994 Pirellis, so I invested* in my safety* by buying a new pair of Shengtais for a tenner each. I expect they'll be as slippery as a well-used bar of soap in a prison shower...

Posted

Eicher brakes are shite. Spend the extra few quid on Pagid, please.

I'll second that, the eicher I have on the fiesta the pads are really loose, not enough to fall out but enough to create a really irritating clunk when you touch the brakes.

Posted

The brakes are gr9 tbh! The rears need new pads and discs at some point as their a bit tired, but no complaints on stoppage. I'll have a good check over them when I swap the wheels, and will clean the excessive copper grease off the mating face too... There's still no pedal for an inch, but I'm so used to that now I dont notice it!

 

The 1994/3/2 spare has been excellent, I've driven like it's not been there and have had no complaints apart from it finding the grooves in l1 made by the lorries, but I'm used to that now too!

 

If anything most of the cars issues now are the possibly fucked rear shocks! It's started jiggling slightly side to side on crap roads now, noticed it today going to the tyre place on a road I;ve not been down in it before

Posted

ZX shocks on the 'bay are £15-20 each, replacing them is pretty easy unless the bolts are completely seized due to rust.

 

Just make sure it's not the beam that's playing up, as discussed before.

Posted

I'm clinging onto the hope that matey was telling the truth that the beam was replaced a few years ago for a low mieler (the abs ring is promising that it has). Aim to have a good look round on sunday and ask you fine* chaps for your advice!

Posted

One is a Dayton D110, the other a King star Road fit SK70! Sounds gr4

  • Like 1
Posted

Should be ok shouldn't it? 

 

One thing worth noting is that the tyres on each end of an axle must be the same sizes.

  • Like 2
Posted

Yep that's sorted, the tyre chap found a matching pair.

 

When I had the xm it had a different size tyre on the front left. My mate noticed it when he mot'd it for the first time in my ownership, and passed it after making me promise to get it changed asap. Drove across Wycombe to the same tyre place straight afterwards and got it sorted. It rode slightly better afterwards!

Posted

Well, I got the wheels and tyres on on Sunday morning (just got round to wanging the pics up! Had a good check of the new discs too, wearing in nicely

 

post-5612-0-64192600-1409728905_thumb.jpg

 

Smeared the coppaslip that was left around, didnt put any fresh on

 

Had a look at the rear shocks too whilst the rear wheel was off

 

post-5612-0-52831400-1409728960_thumb.jpg

 

Looks pretty fucked. Compounded too by lack of access to the mounting bolts, and the fact that they look like originals that haven't been touched in years. Any tips to get them off?

 

post-5612-0-87599100-1409728996_thumb.jpg

 

Reading the HBOL it says to remove the backbox to get better access to the bolts on the passenger side. Looking at all the snot and bits of metal holding it together that might be tricky, and it's leak free at the moment so loathed to do it. If I do, I feel a new backbox coming on and just chopping it off as close as possible to the end

 

post-5612-0-76798000-1409729086_thumb.jpg

 

Looking at the shocks, under the dust cover they dont look too horrific

 

post-5612-0-91682400-1409729112_thumb.jpg

 

So I elected to leave it alone for now and see if it crops up at MOT time, unless anyone can offer advice on removal? I'll need a new socket anyway, it's 21mm, I have a 20 and 22, which will round it off if I try any harder than I did!

 

Glad the spare is finally off too, it was starting to crack after nearly 3000 miles

 

post-5612-0-96402600-1409729199_thumb.jpg

 

Looks quite old, have I taken a picture of the date code or something else?

 

post-5612-0-99271700-1409729217_thumb.jpg

 

Either way, it runs alot better with 4 full size wheels fitted! Will get the rears shod next payday. Moving the rear axle up and down with the jack seems to have smoothed things out slightly though, unless it's just the fact that the spare isnt on!

 

post-5612-0-55196400-1409729271_thumb.jpg

 

post-5612-0-46218200-1409729280_thumb.jpg

 

Looking at the tyre that came off the front pass side, it is wearing the inside edge fast. The tracking is very out, if I straighten the steering wheel it punts me to the right. Should I possibly get it done properly, or would taking the steering wheel off and refitting it straight do the trick? Don't want to mask the problem if I can help it, would rather fix it and save tyres.

 

So, it's still lumpity and bumpety, although serves me right for buying a car that's factory lowered, but it rides alot better now! Still not bought a new wing though, or washed it, or serviced it in any way apart from filling the screenwash up! It should tick over to 267k tomorow morning too, will get home on 266,98something tonight looking at the odometer.

  • Like 1
Posted

I would adjust the steering wheel, nothing worse than a wonky wheel.

 

What size is your wheel brace? If you have a spider one then will have a 21mm socket on it.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Home early from work for the first time in ages, so got me tools out and actually did something on my car short of sit in it...

 

IMAG1202.jpg

 

Old frayed accelerator cable

 

IMAG1203.jpg

 

disconnected all the engine bay stuff, then stripped the lower trim out of the drivers footwell to get at the pedal. Found the fuel cutoff switch that the previous owner mentioned but never showed me, could be handy! (of course you can borrow my car my dear...)

 

IMAG1204.jpg

 

pedal end is disconnected

 

IMAG1205.jpg

 

I tied the new one to the old and pulled it through

 

IMAG1207.jpg

 

fitted the pedal end and rubber grommit

 

IMAG1208.jpg

 

then went up to the engine. Routed it where the old one went and... too fucking short. routing it a different way, around the block and intercooler mainly worked, and i got the engine bay bit connected

 

IMAG1209.jpg

 

cable ties hold it on course, their not tight

 

IMAG1210.jpg

 

fired a polite email to the seller to inform him, although not expecting a refund as it's fitted now, and tbh it does work well, the pedals not as floppy, and it moves the mechanism much sooner than it did (old cable probably needed adjusting, but I didnt want to put strain on the cable. did keep the old one, may have a plan if I get 5 minutes though...)

 

Happy* with it, I got the next little package I recieved on monday

 

IMAG1211.jpg

 

new washer jets! old ones were crap, provided a pinhole jet of water, wouldnt adjust properly and were crap

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qY7KhrenCbA&list=UUv0y2E43HyJMX85p-Wxro0Q

 

That rattle never used to be there but I think its just the speed of water rattling through everything. biased the spray towards the drivers side too to help keep it clean on the m40.

 

Hopefully on the way to work tomorrow the cable will be fine!

 

Lastly I also fixed this which I noticed the other week

 

IMAG1212.jpg

 

IMAG1213.jpg

Posted

I'm glad I'm not the only person spending time and money on a 90s Citroen.

Posted

Some of us have to carry the flag volksy! You're doing much better than I am atm though, fuck painting!

 

pedal is stiffer than it was this morning, probably due to the routing of the cable, but the throttle response is smoother now, and it revs much higher more quickly than it did (lost a car behind me in black smoke...)

 

but I don't really like it, it can't be good for it long term so I've exhausted ebay, which has the same kit I got, might have a look at the old one and see if a suitable bodge repair can be fashioned, although the middle reinforcement of the cable did stretch a bit when I pulled it out of  the car...

 

Random hypothetical question - would a choc block be adequate to join 2 pieces of accelerator cable together, say on an XUD9?

Posted

I've used that as a temporary* repair before, with no issues.

 

I feel your pain over too short pattern cables though - I once changed the clutch cable (just in case, while I had the pedal box out) on the BX, which is a bastard of a job...took something like 4 hours and then I realised it was too fucking short! I could have cried, especially as it was up on ramps blocking in the rest of the fleet - so I had no choice but to refit the old one.

Posted

The old one fully broke, so I had to fit the new one. Was thinking of cutting the old one before the housing it goes through on the adjuster, and fitting a length of the new one the rest of the way, joining it in the middle...

 

Is there a name for little metal tubes with the 2 Allen grub screws for joining bike brake cable?

Posted

The old one fully broke, so I had to fit the new one. Was thinking of cutting the old one before the housing it goes through on the adjuster, and fitting a length of the new one the rest of the way, joining it in the middle...

 

Is there a name for little metal tubes with the 2 Allen grub screws for joining bike brake cable?

 

I think it's called mullered connector block.

  • Like 2
Posted

shirley le cable acceletature is the same on a puggit 306 or a xsara

Posted

I think it's called mullered connector block.

Yep, once repaired a brake cable on a Tomos moped this way - stayed that way until I sold it

Posted

I think that is the plan. Mate came over tonight, and we stripped 7cms off the outer sheath engine bay end of the old cable. Plan is when we get an afternoon to fit the old cable to the pedal end, and route as it should be, then chopping the new one down to fit between the joint on the hopefully straight part of the run, and into the mechanism.

 

It does rev better now, throttle response is more precise, left a lovely black cloud accelerating to 5.5k in 3rd on the bypass just after leaving work, and it got from 60 to 80 very sharply indeed, turbo whistle seems better too so hopefully once this job is done right all will be well in that area.

 

Probably going to use a few chocolate blocks though, because I have some in the shed...

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Beko, I can't find where you said you'd mullered your knob and pulled it off (fnarr).

Anyway, I have a well-worn 306 gear knob here if you want it. Please check your gear stick is the same first though - the round tube is crimped into a sort of square, or X-shaped profile at the top, and the knob slides firmly over it (not threaded).

 

post-1381-0-86245600-1414426529_thumb.jpg

 

post-1381-0-67629000-1414426598_thumb.jpg

 

post-1381-0-63765800-1414426658_thumb.jpg

 

If you want it FOC, PM me your address and I can post it tomorrow morning when I go into town.

Posted

I'll check mine tomorrow morning! Does it just yank off? Hope it doesn't make a mess...

Posted

I thought yours almost fell off already? Or did I dream the whole thing?

Yes, it just lifted off, the 306 only put up minimal resistance. Not like the Volvo auto one... that needed me crouching on the front seats astride the console, yanking with all my weedy strength*.

Posted

The outer skin fell apart, the inner core and mounting bit stayed on!

 

The collar looks similar from the outside though!

Posted

I thought yours almost fell off already? Or did I dream the whole thing?

Yes, it just lifted off, the 306 only put up minimal resistance. Not like the Volvo auto one... that needed me crouching on the front seats astride the console, yanking with all my weedy strength*.

You want to be careful doing that,I've seen a clip of a woman that tried this ,with interesting* results. Mind you she was daft doing it in just her vest.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...