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Reginald Nutsack's K-series Kapers - ROVER 623 MOT GUFF


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Posted

Must admit, the belt-slice technique was my first thought too given the values involved. I've never tried it mind you, just a thing I've heard about.

Posted

I heard a story once that a tensioner failed and polished a belt UNTIL IT SNAPPED.

 

But that was in Kent in the 1990s. You're probably safe.

 

The tensioner on a friend's Golf failed. It did several hundred miles before he noticed it wasn't actually turning! The belt somehow survived.

Posted

If you use the knife trick to change the cambelt If you cable tied the cam belt Above the tensioner can you not just whip the tensioner off, fit the new one and cut the cable tie? Nothing should move if you've tensioned it with the cable tie.

Posted

I can't move the tensioner, let alone remove it, this is the problem

Posted

I'm a huge fanny I thought it was the crank as I have a tiny attention span

Posted

Have you tried twatting a slightly larger torx into the hole? Can't really see how intact the hole is from your pics.

 

If you have already tried this or it fails I would be trying to get a grinder or dremel or something on it in situ, and only remove the head as an absolute last resort.

Posted

My concern would be breaking the tensioner fixing bolt then having a bigger problem to sort out with the head off.  I would remove the belt and check the tensioner for free, quiet rotation.  If ok, fit the new belt and trust that it will stretch a bit if the tensioner has been adjusted for an older belt (though I doubt it).  If the tensioner sounds past it, then either take the plunge and take the head off to give the best chance of removing it, or park the damned thing and try to get a Maserati fixed.  You will return to the Rover in a day because it will seem an easier option.

Posted

Drill the bolt head off so that the tensioner can be got off. Then weld something to the remaining stud as access should then be much easier?

  • Like 3
Posted

If you're having trouble getting a good swing at it with a hammer to get a slightly bigger spline bit in then can you drill a hole at the corresponding height through the inner wing, then hammer one in with a long extension on the end?

Or, as others have suggested, grind it off with a dremel. It's almost certainly the clamping force of the bolt head that's holding it, you'd have to be seriously unlucky to grind the head off it and find it's the thread that's seized in.

Or, cut the belt off, weld the outer part of the tensioner to the inner, then get a pair of stilsons on it, a bit of a last resort. Good luck whichever route you choose.

Posted

Or, cut the belt off, weld the outer part of the tensioner to the inner, then get a pair of stilsons on it, a bit of a last resort. Good luck whichever route you choose.

 

YESSSSS!!!! Now that is a good idea!!!!! I reckon i could get it doing that. I think I will give this a whirl.

  • Like 6
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Give 'im a chance, it's not even been two months yet ffs!

  • Like 3
Posted

You know all the best things take time, yes?

Posted

Mr Bollox in car fixing tease ? We need words and pics as soon as possible !

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Right this thing is being rehomed this weekend, to another shiter. I did get the timing belt done in the end, basically I made loads of cuts in the tensioner with the slitting disc, smashed all the pieces away then had access to weld an M10 bolt onto the tensioner bolt 'properly', allowing me to get the tensioner bolt out with a 17mm ring spanner. What a fuggin war. Then I put a new belt & tensioner on and reassembled it all.

 

Went up and checked it over last night, pumped tyres, topped up coolant and all the rest of it, should ge good to go for its long drive down to Devon.

 

After that I will be completely out of stock of K-series (unless you count the KV6 in the Rover 45).

 

The next hunk of Longbridge Landfill to join the fleet is this Rover 623:

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

Check out this interior!!!!

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

Some rust problems though:

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

Been in touch with the sellers and they seem a sound bunch so I should be picking it up one night after work next week. Exciting times!

Posted

HAHA DEM ROVAHS R SHIT M8.

 

Given what mine looks like, I'd check those strengthening sections beneath the floor as well before unleashing the MIG. Mine are crusty just as it curves down from the engine bay. If you need an owners manual, I have a spare. Helpful for fuse locations at least!

Posted

 

The next hunk of Longbridge Landfill to join the fleet is this Rover 623:

 

Were these built in Longbridge?  I'd always thought these were built in Cowley.  Even if it was, don't let my pedantry get in the way of a nicely-coined saying!

Posted

You're right, its a Cowley Clunker to be geographically correct

  • Like 3
Posted

I have rescued the owners' handbook and it's rather lovely folder from mine if you need 'em.

  • Like 1
Posted

That is a lovely looking beastie. That interior is a sight for sore eyes!

Posted

Are those sill covers on the 600?

 

Yup. Just like a P6. It was just above one of these covers that my finger went through the sill. Not sure I'd've been brave enough to take the sill covers off if the accident hadn't happened...

Posted

That interior looks like the inside of a Werther's Original, I love it.

 

Well bought, hopefully it shouldn't be too difficult to sort out the sill, as the rest of the car looks great.

Posted

Yup. Just like a P6. It was just above one of these covers that my finger went through the sill. Not sure I'd've been brave enough to take the sill covers off if the accident hadn't happened...

 

 

Shudders..

Can't wait to see the dirty XXX rust pictures on the 623

Posted

I'm waiting for a bus in Bristol. Collection number 2 this week is in progress.

 

Further exciting updates may be provided.

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