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1980 Austin Princess


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Posted

Before the head was fixed and while still on steels - problem was there, but only with a mild left pull and no discernible right pull.

After head was fixed, while still on steels - a right pull on acceleration became apparent, the left pull remained the same.

After the alloys were fitted - right pull more noticeable, left pull remained the same.

 

It's gradually got worse, it was only today having someone else drive the car that it made it apparent how much worse it's become as I normally don't hoof it, unlike my brother.  I've also spent the last 100 or so miles driving gently as I didn't want to overstress the engine after having done the head gasket.

 

Steering is quite sharp, particularly since doing the suspension, and there's no float or vagueness to it.  If you hold the wheel the car can be preventing from pulling left or right very easily.  I doubt it's the track rod ends as they were done less than a year ago and I've not done a huge amount of miles to warrant failure (though I admit it is possible).

 

Front wheels didn't appear to have movement in any direction they shouldn't when the front was last off the ground when I fitted the alloys.  Wheel nuts have been checked twice since fitting the alloys and found to be torqued up correctly and the wheel nuts are the proper special wheel nuts for the alloys so they seat correctly.

 

I'll get it up in the air and have another wiggle just to see if any additional play is apparent when the car is stationary.  It's something that has become progressively worse over a period of months rather than something that's gone bad all at once so I would be surprised if it's the alloys that have caused the problem though I understand fitting a differing offset to factory can cause additional stress and wear.

 

It is also possible that the too-low rear end is contributing to the issue as it is nose-high and has been throughout my ownership due to seized pivot shafts not allowing me to reset the rear arms correctly, a common Princess problem.

Posted

The wider tyres/ wheels will exaggerate the problem I would say.  I've never seen how a Princess is set up suspension wise, but in my experience, pulling in one direction under acceleration and t'other when you let off is more likely to be worn-out bushes showing excessive movement.

The balljoints would have to be very badly worn to give enough play to affect the car's direction..

Posted

Probably cheaper and/or easier to replace the bushes.  Most of the rubber components on the car have needed to be replaced so that does tally with what I've had to do so far.  Can worn out bushes really cause that much play?

Posted

 Can worn out bushes really cause that much play?

 

Definitely, I've driven cars with badly worn wishbone bushes that practically crab along the road.

Posted

In a way, that's reassuring because the bushes are easier to get and quite affordable.  I'll investigate cost of replacing all the bushes before doing the ball joints then.

Posted

You'd never have all four ball joints dying all at once, it does sound more like some dead bushes. Also if you had worn out ball joints you'd have metal-to-metal clonks all over the shop. Are the cross-tube mounts on the rear end all in good nick? The ones you can see by looking in the rear wheelarch.

Posted

Last time I checked, which would be a week or two ago, the rear mounts were in good order and everything was nice and snug. I'll have another look just to be sure, knowing my luck me trying to free off the pivot shafts has buggered something else up.

Posted

see if the big bolt head is central in the hole in the rubber, if not one of those has come unbonded, they can do weird things to the handling if that happens!

Posted

You could try grabbing a front wheel and try to turn it back and forth, (with handbrake on) even really wrestling with them they shouldn't move a great amount, if one does, look under for what's flopping around, or the easy way, someone biting the clutch between 1st and reverse, handbrake on, while you observe.

Posted

I know the clutch bite returns nothing surprising, the wheels don't move in odd directions it just goes up and down on the suspension in that way Princesses do but I'll check it again as the problem has got worse since I last observed that so it might be more obvious now if there's a fault.

 

All this is making me think more and more that it's related to trying to free off the rear end rather than anything to do with the ball joints.  The problem has been more apparent, if I can tie it to anything, since I replaced that rear sphere and arm I took from the HLS which would definitely point more at bushes than anything else since it's pretty much all bushes and blocks of rubber back there.

Posted

I have gone through the checks on the HL today before I had to go out and do lots of errands.  I discovered the following:

 

>There is no discernible play in the ball joints, the steering rack, the bearings or the bushes.

> Pivot shaft securing nuts were slightly loose (as suspected) and have been retightened to correct torque.  Bushes are in good condition with no discernible wear or deformity.

> Tyre pressures checked again to find one was an abnormally low 9psi.  I suspect foul play yet again, you're all probably aware of my issues with my wheels and tyres being tampered with over the course of this year.  I'll continue to monitor this on a weekly/as needed basis.

 

Correcting the tyre pressures alone has helped with the handling, unsurprisingly.  But there's a good half inch of play in that track rod end.  The other side, replaced at the same time, has no play at all.  These track rod ends have done less than 2000 miles and been on the car less than a year so I'm not thrilled that one has failed, but at least it's a cheap and easy repair compared to what it could have been.  I shall get the track rod end fitted, tracking done and wheels balanced all together, I just have to wait for the part to arrive to do the job.

Posted

When you check the tyre pressures and replace the valve caps put some dog shite on the valve caps - just remember you put it there ;-) Then when the valve tamperer goes to work they'll have nice smelly fingers for the rest of the evening ..

 

I had issues with a campervan I had which a neighbour took issue to. He would take the valve cap off - put a small stone inside and refit so that it would go down slowly - Fat twat face he was (luckily he's sodded off now) Anyways I could never prove it was him but I knew it was so I put dog shite on the cap and oh I laughed when I saw that someone had disturbed the shite - hope he enjoyed his KFC that evening - finger licking good I'd say. Never did it again, he thought he was causing me pain but as I have a big f off compressor it was great to start up one Sunday afternoon (he worked nights) to hear the clatter of my compressor and filling the tyre with air in an instant. I'm sure the disappointment of me not using a foot pump pi$$ed him off..

 

Anyways good luck with the balljoint - had similar issue with my Capri but it was the inner track control bushes - felt fine on car but when I took em out they were totally borked !!!!

Posted

I'm not putting poo on my car.  I reckon it's probably the same kid that stole my dice valve caps expressing his annoyance that my current caps aren't fancy enough.  Shame I can't get some sort of delayed reaction superglue so when they try and steal them they get stuck to the car and have to wait for me to arrive to let them go, once I've kicked them in the shins a few times, obviously.

Posted

I'm not putting poo on my car.  I reckon it's probably the same kid that stole my dice valve caps expressing his annoyance that my current caps aren't fancy enough.  Shame I can't get some sort of delayed reaction superglue so when they try and steal them they get stuck to the car and have to wait for me to arrive to let them go, once I've kicked them in the shins a few times, obviously.

Would fitting locking valve caps stop the buggers from tampering? Would cost money and possibly just cause the little feckers to be even more creative* in vandalising your car though....

Posted

I'll just put up with it and complain from time to time.  My tyres never go down when the car is parked on the drive, but I just get constant nagging from the neighbour when I do park on the drive, even when I only have one car to home, so it's easier just to park on the street and keep an eye on the tyres and valve caps.  If having my tyre pressures tampered with prevents more serious vandalising then I'll tolerate it, even though it absolutely boils my piss at times.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'll just put up with it and complain from time to time. My tyres never go down when the car is parked on the drive, but I just get constant nagging from the neighbour when I do park on the drive, even when I only have one car to home, so it's easier just to park on the street and keep an eye on the tyres and valve caps. If having my tyre pressures tampered with prevents more serious vandalising then I'll tolerate it, even though it absolutely boils my piss at times.

Try using a (borrowed) compressor and half filling the receiver with piss/slurry from a nearby farm, then inflating your tyres to 60 PSI with said contraption. Solidly glue the valve cores to the caps so that next time the caps are unscrewed the core will come out with it and unleash a torrent of high pressure shite on the miscreants.

This would be ultimately very satisfying, but would ruin your clothes and annoy you immensely the next time you checked the tyre pressures.

:-)

  • Like 1
Posted

I don't want to put poo in my car either!  From now on, no suggestions of poo/car interface, please.

Posted

I don't want to put poo in my car either! From now on, no suggestions of poo/car interface, please.

Try Asda own brand cheap cola instead? Not poo exactly, but brown and similar in some ways.....

 

:-)

Posted

[mardy-fit]You're all disgusting and I hate you.[/mardy-fit]

Posted

Have you tried spunk?

 

Embarassing, yet relatively clean...

If you know who's it is.

 

Hippy new year

You fuckers.

  • Like 2
Posted

I daresay it's only embarrassing if applied directly from the dispenser within view of the general public.

  • Like 2
Posted

Why not go for the pound shop solution and get a nice policeman to watch over your pride and joy.... preferably not when you are applying your own anti vandal liquid

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  • Like 1
Posted

At least nobody is slashing your tyres*

 

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* I know its on the hubcap - i STOLE THE PIC FROM T'INTERWEBS**

 

** Fucking caps lock.

 

Posted

I have gone through the checks on the HL today before I had to go out and do lots of errands.  I discovered the following:

 

>There is no discernible play in the ball joints, the steering rack, the bearings or the bushes.

> Pivot shaft securing nuts were slightly loose (as suspected) and have been retightened to correct torque.  Bushes are in good condition with no discernible wear or deformity.

> Tyre pressures checked again to find one was an abnormally low 9psi.  I suspect foul play yet again, you're all probably aware of my issues with my wheels and tyres being tampered with over the course of this year.  I'll continue to monitor this on a weekly/as needed basis.

 

Correcting the tyre pressures alone has helped with the handling, unsurprisingly.  But there's a good half inch of play in that track rod end.  The other side, replaced at the same time, has no play at all.  These track rod ends have done less than 2000 miles and been on the car less than a year so I'm not thrilled that one has failed, but at least it's a cheap and easy repair compared to what it could have been.  I shall get the track rod end fitted, tracking done and wheels balanced all together, I just have to wait for the part to arrive to do the job.

 

when I fit balljoints or track ends to my Rangie I always carefully remove the spring clip and rubber boot. then  pack the top of the balljoint with LM grease. Reassemble and fit.

 

I have found in my experience that balljoints ujs etc on the bay even though stamped as GKN or some other qwalitay brand are cheap fakes made of butter. If you do buy these off the bay buy from a known supplier.

 

Couple of Range rover antiroll bar links that come in a "blue box" have been as dry as a witches tit  !!

 

you could drill, tap and fit a grease nipple but tbh the first point should do the trick.

 

Posted

I had some cunt cut my fuel filler pipe under the car to steal £30 worth of unleaded. Range Rover classics are quite easy to do apparently,

 

Car fuel filler pipe now has a bag wrapped around it full of dog shit and tie wrapped into place.

 

I also had someone tamper with my tyres when parked on the street, after the 4th time I contacted the local press who stuck a nice story together for me. When it went online, posted in the comments section that "we" had a pretty good idea who was doing it!  and that swift and brutal justice would be dealt soon. Didn't happen again :D

 

Similar thing happened with the car keying cunt who did my wifes car in some anti mummy drops kids off at school vendetta. we live opposite a school. A load of cars were done over the space of a month. Local press involved and lots of comments about we know who did it and are waiting for them down a dark alley sort of shite. Stopped immediately.

 

Be  wary of those pound shop locking air caps, the allen key screw corrodes and sticks solid to the thread on the air valve. Been there and have the t-shirt. lube them up nicely before fitting

Posted

With Dad's car away at the garage getting fixed, the Princess has been enjoying living on the drive.  For some reason, being on the drive gets rid of the condensation issue I've been getting on the street and, as expected, the tyre and valve tampering has completely stopped.

 

In between other jobs, I've been plodding away at the seat covers and managed to get the driver's seat cover to a point that it could be tried on.  I still need to put a finishing edge on the bottom of the cover but other than that it's done.

 

20140109-01_zpsfbdeed30.jpg

 

20140109-02_zps8b4dbd15.jpg

 

I now know that each front seat requires 53 squares, slightly less than my original estimate.  Each square takes about 15-20 minutes to make and a cover takes about an hour to sew together and tidy up the edges.  So that means a seat cover costs in the region of 18-20 hours.

 

For the rear seat I'll just be making a square blanket that gets folded in half.  That will be 12 by 12 (144 squares) and I need to make another 62 squares to have enough for that.  A total of roughly 50 hours will have been invested in that.  Happily, I don't have to just sit and make these all day long, I just make a square and sew a section whenever I have a spare moment, or if I've sat down to watch a programme or a film.

 

With the time required to make these things, it's no surprise I'm probably the only person that's ever bothered.  Without my long standing wrist injury I could probably make them a bit faster, but it certainly wouldn't be by much.  In total I'll have invested about 90 hours in these seat covers, but only something like £20 in materials and they're a lot nicer and more entertaining than anything you might otherwise purchase for £20.

 

The main purpose for these is to protect the fabric on the top of the seats where UV damage makes them very brittle.  The pink tartan blanket will be put in the HLS and will go with the car unless I find a more suitable cover before it's rehomed.

Posted

You need some rubber door stops with orange reflectors in, to go with that - it's giffertastic!

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