The Purple Peril and other dreadful cars I need to fix

[catsinthewelder]

Thread resurrection time

 

I'm hoping to get this back on the road in time for shitefest.  It's had a shedload of welding to the structural bits and a load of wob in the wings where I've become a little impatient.  There is a bit more to go but I think it's time to hit the mechanical side as I know that I'll have to wait for some of the parts.

 

I need to replace the oil pump as the oil light comes on at idle,  I think it ate a few bits of gearbox as I found them at it's last oil change.  The manual says to remove the engine but I don't have a crane or anyone to help so was delighted to find a post on the owners club forum that it was possible to do the job with the engine in situ.  I've fired off a response asking for more infomation but it's a really quiet forum so I might not get an answer for months.  Anyone on here know if it's possible and what special tools I'll need?

[warninglight]

It is possible to do the oil pump in situ (though if it were me I'd hoist the lot out!) but before doing that, get a new copper washer, spring and chrome ball bearing setup to replace the (probably scored) aluminium plunger in the oil pressure relief valve.

 

That might just cure it. Might have saved me rebuilding the 1098 in mine 4 times. Every time I tried it, I couldn't get any oil pressure. Turns out the new pumps have slimmer bodies than the old. Tighten old bolts to torque in the block, everything feels tight but they need shortened by a couple of threads so they actually make the pump seal. They just bottom out otherwise and the first you know is when you start it with a big bright amber light on the dash.

 

http://minispares.com/shop/classic/Engine/Block/Relieve~Valves.aspx?100116

[alf892]

Oil pump is driven off clutch end of camshaft so will involve removal of clutch and flywheel and then the big flywheel casing so you may/will need clutch puller.Other than than just patience!

[dollywobbler]

This excites me very much. It's a fab little car, and I was wondering what was going on with itm having not seen it for quite a while now.

[hairnet]

now wobble haz dizzle a frame to shiefest if you dont fix it in time

 

 

holy thread bump tho - back of the net

[Conrad D. Conelrad]

Are there any pictures of this? I ♥ anything with an A-Series. 

[catsinthewelder]

I haven't taken any photos of it for ages so really need to get my arse into gear,  it does look pretty dreadful though as it's currently 3 different shades of purple with BFO  red oxide patches around the more recent work.  The interior mostly consists of a welder that is too heavy to drag back to the shed each night and most of the parts that should be bolted to the bulkhead are in the van after cutting a huge hole in it to fix the rust inside (the bulkhead, not the van).

 

Thanks for the advice chaps,  I've lobbed an order off to minispares for those bits and bobs and will keep my fingers crossed that I won't have to rip the engine apart.

 

So, fit them and reassemble the pedal box, carb, wiring loom, heater etc and see if it will run without the oil light.  If it does then a few more days welding and bodgeing,  put the interior and brake lines back in and see what my tester thinks of it.

[catsinthewelder]

I've been tinkering with the Austin this morning, as most ofthe welding is now done I'm happier about spending some money on the mechanical side of things reasonably safe in the knowledge that I'll get it back on the road.

 

The order from minispares turned up the other day so I spent yesterday fitting the new oil pressure relief ball bearing and spring.  It should have been easy but my manual told me it was under a domed nut on the back of the block so I spent a good half hour nosing around under the exhaust manifold before finding the sodding thing on the front.  The domed nut was a 1" and I don't have a socket or a spanner anything like the right size so first I had to remove the banjo bolt for the feed to the oil filter, the oil pressure switch and the coil then spent 2 minutes doing the actual job,  fingers crossed eh.

 

As the oil filter bits were off it was time for my scrapyard parts convertion,  I'd picked up a spin on filter head bit that was once attached to an 80's Mini as I'd previously knackered the threads on the canister filter head and had to bodge it.  Much time was spent over the weekend removing the oily grime  so it was ready, or rather it wasn't.  The old one fitted over some long studs that stuck a few inches past the new part.  Saving the day as always was our local agricultural merchants who stock every type of nut and bolt I've ever needed.

 

Today I went out all confident I'd get it sorted,  the studs were out and I had the new bolts to go in they're place.  I lined it all up and noticed that the new part was a different shape,  it didn't cover the same area and it looked like it was going to leak.  Rushing inside I googled it and couldn't find any mention of the part fitting.  I was rather cross so pulled the grille off to make refitting the old crap one easier and noticed for the first time that the gasket outline was the shape of the old part but the block was smooth behind it,  I scraped off the old gasket and realised that I'd been a twat (again) and it was going to be fine.  I made a new gasket from cardboard and fitted my new parts.

 

Sorry for lack of pics, the camera batterys were dead but heres some from last week.

 

 

 

 

 

AS you can see the bodywork is a work in progress but scruffy paint and surface bubbles shouldn't stop it getting an MOT (I do need to put a bit more electric glue on before then).

[ruffgeezer]

Wow, that is utter utter shite at it's finest. Probably mu favourite car to grace these pages in some considerable time. Good work!

[catsinthewelder]

I'm currently attempting to reassemble the engine bay and the bits under the dash so I can start it and see if it's got any oil pressure.  I'd hoped to refit the heater today but forgot to buy some new rubber hose so I had a go at the pedal box and master cylinders instead.

 

 

They were an absolute swine,  the pedal box has 4 threaded rods that go through the bulkhead and form studs for the brake and clutch master cylinders in the engine bay. There are 4 other securing bolts too so it seemed sensible to fit them and do the m/c's after.  This was not the case though as I couldn't get anything to fit (I have a horrible feeling that I've buggered up the alignment of something or other).

 

 

After the 3rd swearing fit I refitted the washer bottle and pipes as a stress free job to calm down.  There was a bit of overspray on the bracket though so I took it into the shed to clean up with the knot brush.  Obviously I caught it at a funny angle and sent it flying out of the vice in a new and interesting shape but a but of hammer time saw it near enough right to screw back in place.

 

 

I then returned to the pedal box,  wedging the rods through the bulkhead and a screwdriver through a bolthole held it more or less in place so I could tighten a nut onto one rod to hold it in place.  I was just fitting the brake master cylinder when Ms C arrived home and informed me that the window was stuck in the door of the Disco so I gave up on the Austin and set to bodgeing that back together.

 

First off was the grab handle swiftly followed by the doorcard and placcy liner

 

 

I pushed the window up and safely secured it.

 

 

and found this in the bottom of the door (pic taken after some wire brush action)

 

 

Next I found a 5 year old tube of windscreen sealant, unblocked it with the drill and plastered it all over the rusty lifter channel to hold the rubber in place,  wriggled it onto the mechanism then glued the window into that and shut the window and got ready for work.

 

I'll find out if that has worked in the morning

 

 

 

[dollywobbler]

Great to see some progress on the Ozztin. I think I forgot to mention the knackered window on the Disco, so sorry about that. I got used to pushing it down by hand as it no longer seemed to be attached to the runner. It did always come back up though. I think the previous owner mentioned something about needing to be careful or it'd fall off the runners - I must just have been lucky.

[catsinthewelder]

Nay bother Ian,  if the bodge doesn't hold I'm sure I can get one from a breakers easy enough.

 

 

I'd noticed that it was a bit loose but was hoping that they were all like that.

 

A small ill person woke me up at 3am so I havn't bothered to do much this morning.

[Angrydicky]

The 1100 is looking good, top work! I really do like those instrument binnacles fitted to 2 door MK2 1100's, they look like such an afterthought. Like "This guy is obviously too poor/tight to pay the extra for the four-door model, so these instruments will remind him of his poverty/tightness every time he gets behind the wheel".

[catsinthewelder]

The binnacle itself was made of cardboard and the car leaked so it was in constant danger of dropping to bits.  After thoroughly knackering it chasing electrical faults I remade it in thin plywood and covered it in green leatherette.

 

I have the full sized dash from Mr B's old 1100 in the loft but I like this arrangement better.

[catsinthewelder]

No piccys today because I forgot.  I've been feeling crap all week and havn't got anything done so hit it this afternoon with gusto.

 

The master cylinders are both back on now and connected up but need bleeding.  I had to re-shape the bulkhead a bit to get the clutch one on after not paying enough attention when plating it up.

 

Pedal box is back in and connected up.

 

Carb and battery back on then tried it out to see if it would fire,  no might need a new battery but will try a jump start first.

 

Nearly got the heater back in but ran out of light.

 

 

I'm hoping to get this finished pronto as the clutch is fucked on the Discovery and I need space on the drive to fix it and another car to use while I do it.

 

Discovery clutch discussion here  http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=88935&do=findComment&comment=767110 if anyone has any better ideas.

[mat_the_cat]

While you have the box off, it might be a good ideal to beef up the clutch release arm. I've heard (but never seen first hand) of the clutch pushrod making its way through the arm, so in the past I've done something like this:

 

 

Just a piece of flat bar welded across the other side. And if you need to borrow a universal clutch tool I can bung one in the post...I'm unlikely to need it before May, and I'm sure a drink would cover postage.

[catsinthewelder]

You're a star Mat,  I was wondering if I should buy one of those reinforced arms but that looks like a job that I can do well enough myself. 

 

Cheers for the offer of the tool too,  I will probably take you up on that.

[dollywobbler]

Sodding Land Rover. Hope it's not too much of a pig to sort.

[catsinthewelder]

I'm clutch shopping and using the usual method within Land Rover circles of trying to buy the cheapest solution that isn't Britpart.

 

I know that Valeo and AP are good brands to look for but ebay is offering me QH, National autoparts and FOHRENBUHL clutch's.  Good or worth avoiding?

[twosmoke300]

I fitted a britpart clutch for a customer 8 months or so ago (he supplied it ) Seemed of ok quality and he has done loads with it since and its ok.

 

Mind you if I was doing it as a retail job I would try and get an LUK . Ive seen quite a few Borg and Beck clutches break up long before they are worn out so I try and avoid those. Valeo are ok .Tecxmark is another cheapy one that ive fitted for people and they do seem cheap n nasty and have a poor bite afterwards.

[mat_the_cat]

When I worked for QH, this was one of them we made in house (rather than re-boxing other makes), and we used Valeo friction material. Back then, I'd have had no problems fitting a QH part, so long as it was in the right box and had been assembled correctly (our two biggest problems!)

 

But now, the name has been bought by Tetrosyl so I'm not even sure whether they actually produce any clutches themselves.

[catsinthewelder]

It seems to be that much of a tank of sharks that I'm getting tempted to just buy whatever the local factors have on the shelf and return it if the current one looks ok when I take it off.

 

I'll put a new release bearing (the bit that's probably broken) on and weld up the fork (free) .

 

Is this sensible or taking things too far in the name of tightness?  Obviously if the current clutch plate looks worn out I'll fit the new one.

[mat_the_cat]

Obviously depends on finances, but if you have a new one side by side then you can compare for wear and decide whether it's likely to be a problem during your ownership. Obviously you can't see the remaining lifespan of the diaphragm spring, so that's the gamble you take. It'd be daft not to replace if you were paying for labour as the parts cost is less significant, but as your time is free...

[Rusty_Rocket]

The last time we bought a tdi clutch kit, we asked the supplier (Island 4x4) for his advise.  He said that they have had no trouble at all with the Britpart kit that includes a reinforced release arm.  Up to that point, we were going to fit a more expensive (Borg & Beck IIRC) unit but went with the recommendation (and spent a whole lot less money..)

It has been fine so far.  The components seemed to be of decent quality and the whole lot is only £50...

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/clutch-3piece-fork-britpart-stc8358kit-da5551kit-p-3209.html

 

Regarding your LT77 synchromesh issue, I'm afraid that is very (very) typical of these units and apart from being annoying, will not cause any other issues.  I've just bought another Disco' which has an Ashcroft rebuilt gearbox... which crunches into 2nd if you attempt to rush it 

[dollywobbler]

Yeah, the synchro is proper knackered. Double-declutching works well, but a replacement box or serious overhaul is the only solution. The previous owner was clearly just ramming it into gear given how many filings came out when I changed the oil...

 

After that oil change, it did actually allow slow changes from first to second with no crunch - as long as you don't hold the revs too high in first. 

[catsinthewelder]

I can do 1st to 2nd most of the time,  it's 3rd to 2nd that's a bit of a sod. 

 

I rang the local breaker today asking about gearbox's,  he can do one that doesn't crunch at the moment for £250 which is more than I want to spend so the current one is staying.  I think there's a breakers over in Wolverhampton with gearbox's for £100 but I've lost the number and don't fancy driving that far.

 

I also asked the breaker about getting a new rear corner panel,  he's only got 300TDi shells in.  Does anybody know if the rear corner panels are the same as he thought they were different?

 

I need to make a decision on this clutch lark,  I have vague permission to fix it at work over the weekend (and into next week if needs be) which is handy as the drive is full of untaxed 70's tat and my street is a bit steep to remove gearbox's on.

[meggersdog]

When my 200TDi started squeaking it was the fork bursting through the pivot.

I lashed the 'box to two trolley jacks,steadied it with my hands and pushed/rolled the car off the gearbox with my feet.Fitted new everything from Paddocks including a Britpart heavy duty fork.Then rolled the car back onto the gearbox in a similar fashion to removal.

[Rusty_Rocket]

I find it easier to remove the engine. The gearbox with txb is seriously awkward to manhandle (and always oily!)

[mat_the_cat]

Does anybody know if the rear corner panels are the same as he thought they were different?

 

I find Rimmer Bros useful for comparing part numbers between years,but I'd bet even if they were different you'd be able to get one to fit. BUT...if you want a 300 series panel, I have a very battered Disco here where I think that corner is one of the few intact panels. I need to make the decision whether I'm ever going to try and repair the shell first, and depending on how much of a ballache it is to get off intact I could potentially bring it along in May. How's that for a vague answer!?

[catsinthewelder]

I find it easier to remove the engine. The gearbox with txb is seriously awkward to manhandle (and always oily!)

 

The HBoL says the same but I really don't fancy undoing all that stuff and I don't have a proper engine crane.  There is a patient (as in hospital) crane at work that was used for about 6 months to train carers and has sat unloved for years.  It still just about works though and should be fine to hold the gearbox but won't be able to lift the engine out.

I find Rimmer Bros useful for comparing part numbers between years,but I'd bet even if they were different you'd be able to get one to fit. BUT...if you want a 300 series panel, I have a very battered Disco here where I think that corner is one of the few intact panels. I need to make the decision whether I'm ever going to try and repair the shell first, and depending on how much of a ballache it is to get off intact I could potentially bring it along in May. How's that for a vague answer!?

 

That's a kind offer Mat but unless you're under pressure off SWMBO to get it shifted I'd concentrate on the Stellar,  I'm not in a massive rush to fix the rear corner but I have got some excellent instructions from a chap on LR4x4 on removal.

 

 

It's screwed on with self tappers down the door shut, accross the top about level with the gutter but on the inside, and bolted with 6mm screws along the waistline - again inside behind the trim, you'll need to take the the plastic c pillar finisher off - 7mm socket I think from the inside through the pillar - again behind the trim, then grind / cut / whatever 3 rivets off behind it, AND all the joints are bonded with black sickaflex type sealant.

 

Go to the scrappy and take one off, then you have one to fix yours and know how it comes off - it'll take a good couple of hours to get off wihout causing any damage.

 

Steve