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Maestro, please. - Fabricobbling


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Time for this week's video.  Had a few odds and sods of footage so it's a bit Woolworths on this one.

The Maestro still has its original radio, so we give that a bit of a whirl and hopefully don't anger the copyright gremlins.


I deal with the rattling passenger head restraint, caused by the missing trims/guide tubes.  With mixed results.  Annoyingly, after having to buy three guide tubes for this because of my own ham-fistedness, I found a listing (which has since been relisted) on eBay for less and naturally now I don't need them nor will I ever be likely to.




Figure out how to remove the air filter box lid, which is much more involved than it really needs to be.


And just general nattering.  I'm still getting used to recording video and doing pictoral updates.  As much as I'm enjoying putting the videos together, I do keep forgetting to take photographs as I go along.  I just have to get into the habit of recording jobs twice as I go through.  I'll get the hang of it eventually.  If it ever stops raining I'll be able to do the headlining job, bit bored of moving the roll of fabric out of the way now.


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14 minutes ago, vulgalour said:

The Maestro still has its original radio, so we give that a bit of a whirl and hopefully don't anger the copyright gremlins.

A good method the good old Techmoan on YouTube mentioned in one of his HiFi videos was to record a cassette of royalty-free music from the YouTube Audio Library. That way, you can play the music as you please without the music mafia knocking on your door one morning.

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8 minutes ago, vulgalour said:

I'll have to check, but I'm sure it used to be 4 seconds allowed.  I suspect Youtube allow even less and, of course, their implementation of it is more hamfisted than me trying to fit head restraint guide tubes.

This is why YouTube's audio library exists, so creators can add music without needing to licence it from a record label.

There are some labels which are real militant with their music (for example, Queen and The Who's label goes in heay with the slightest hint of their music) and others which are more lax, which is where the 4 second rule comes into play. With royalty-free stuff, none of that happens. For some Shite-esque music that you might want to put on your videos or whatever, I recommend searching up "John Deley and The 41 Players" in the Audio Library's search bar. Quite inoffensive filler music and stuff like that whih you can broadcast to your heart's content!


Just a comment on the videos you produce- they're really enjoyable. It's quite nice to see people show appreciation for running a car and improving it as they go along, recording each step of the way. It's really nice and I love it.

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Just whatever you do, don't ever consider putting a photograph of a Honda...current, concept or classic anywhere.  Otherwise they come crashing down on you with a takedown order faster than you can blink.  See also why my DeviantArt account is sitting on two out of three strikes.  One was taken at a major motor show where the Honda stand just happened to be in the background.  The other was at a classic car show...Ridiculous.

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Yeah, it's all a bit of a minefield.  I've actually been totally avoiding using music because that means people can play their own while they watch if they want to.  It's also less work to insert it.  Then there's Youtube's ads which are very random on when they hop in (unless you're using an adblocker of course) and it's easier to interrupt talking than music and keep the flow, as it were.

But hey, I'm glad the vids are enjoyable and that you're getting from them exactly what I've been trying to put into them, which is a fairly no-nonsense "here's how you do stuff" approach, mistakes included.  It's the sort of content I look for in other videos, and it's the sort of videos that have helped me understand how to do jobs of all sorts.  So thank you for the feedback, that's always welcome if it's constructive.

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for your information

  1. dash bulbs do push in pull out of holders and all except battery light are 1.2w batt is 2w (some older BL products benefit from a 2w batt bulb upgrade if the batt light flickers at idle as it lowers the rpm tha altemator starts to charge!)
  2. clock bulb does not push/pull- if you look you will see the wire legs welded to outside of contact- they can be replaced after snapping wire by using std bulb with legs bent down straight then folded over on outside of contact
  3. clock lights up on key position 1 and dims with lights on- yours does neither i'm afraid
  4. there is an alternative headrest tube with a button operated adjuster latch- then later "rover" ones have a rectangle top rather than the earlier round type that yours are
  5. cigarette lighter wiring should be taped up behind the switch panel which just unclips- there will be 3 wires (iirc black, purple/white & red )
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Do you reckon I can unfold the legs on the bulb and thread them through the holder to make it work then?  Could it just be that the holder and bulb legs simply aren't touching and that's why it's not illuminating?

Speaking of, I've been told that damage on the clock's LCD can be undone.  So far, the only information I've found is how to repair LED clocks, labelled as LCD clocks, and that's about as much use as an ashtray on a motorbike.

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Those headrest tubes were a pain the arse when the cars were new / nearly new.  People hang onto the headrest when they climb out the back seat like it is a grab handle, they alsways used to break.  

They are a real fiddle,to get the remenants out sometimes, I seem to recall.   The ageing of the plastic will have done the new old stock few favours, I'm not surprised you broke a fekker tbh.

i like your use of creaping fluid sealant to find the route of that water track.  I also like your use of arbomast as a non setting sealant.  Keep pushing that in.  It used to be Dum Dum in the day, but IIRC it was banned by the EU due to some ingredient in it.   Whoever banned it wants to get a whiff of tiger seal to wake themselves up.

As for the 'no muff too tuff" radiator shield.  My Dad use to fit remote control,units to his old Wolseley Farina.  You turned a knob on the dash to open and close the blind.  I don't suppose back in the 1960's it was electrically operated, so it must have been mechanical, cable round a pulley wheel.   All very posh, unlike an acquaintance of mine who had me driving his Rover 2600 SD1 once.  We were on the M42 and there was me watching the traffic when he shouted 'pull onto the hard shoulder'.  I can't recall if he sprung the hood or I did, but he disappeared under there and pulled out a sheet of cardboard.  He had forgaooten it was there and must have clocked the temp gauge getting a bit hot.


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14 minutes ago, vulgalour said:

Do you reckon I can unfold the legs on the bulb and thread them through the holder to make it work then?  Could it just be that the holder and bulb legs simply aren't touching and that's why it's not illuminating?

Speaking of, I've been told that damage on the clock's LCD can be undone.  So far, the only information I've found is how to repair LED clocks, labelled as LCD clocks, and that's about as much use as an ashtray on a motorbike.

i have replaced one of those bulbs that way yes

i think you need to check the green wire for 12v- should be (iirc) purple 12v lighting circuit, red 12 permanent, black earth & green 12v switched

whilst your clock is showing the time it isn't actually switching "on"

maestro and montego clocks are the same with a different coloured filter- green early & orange on Rover" versions (after '89 montego/ '92 maestro)

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Right, some more testing and the issue is that there is no continuity at all across the bulb holder.  It still tells the time, keeps it, and can be adjusted fine, even with the damage to the display, it doesn't actually affect the numbers themselves.  Had it all apart just now and there's nothing obviously amiss.

So I'll keep an eye out for a replacement.  The one on eBay is a bit pricey at £25.

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4 days and a massive downpour last night with no rain inside the car for the duration.  I reckon I've finally got it sealed up about as well as it ever will be.  I'll reveal the cause of the leaks via the videos over the next few weeks rather than posting spoilers here.  Videos are keeping me nicely motivated to get stuff done, I was feeling a bit rubbish because of the whole shut-in situation and the bad weather, it's been good to be productive and be rewarded for it with positive feedback and figures on Youtube.  Maybe later in the year I'll promote things a bit more aggressively on other platforms, maybe I won't... I want it to continue being fun and productive rather than a chore, whether or not I make any money of it (I definitely don't at the moment).  We shall see how we go.



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Will you be following up the videos with write ups? It's a purely selfish ask, and recognise it comes with additional labour on your part, but I read threads as distraction when on endless Teams meetings I don't need to be on, so can't watch videos!

Basically - gimme words, says internet stranger you should probably ignore.

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My goal is to do the photos and write up as usual, and have the video to go into more detail.  Each approach has its own benefits and shortcomings when explaining a job, and when it comes to consuming media.  The threads where people do both are the ones I like best so that's the route I plan to go too.  The biggest issue for me is remembering to take photos in addition to the video, I keep forgetting to do both and while I know there is a photo option on the camcorder, I keep forgetting to use that too.  Just a case of getting into new habits, takes a little time.

But hey, feedback is good, I don't want to end up alienating regular readers with the change of format and it's good to know how people consume the content so I can tailor it to fit them better.  I'm hoping that the closed captions are good for those that make use of that, I don't have any control over how Youtube actually presents that beyond selecting language, hopefully I'm speaking clearly and slowly enough that it's not messing that up.  Accessibility of content is pretty important to me, whether it's stuff I'm doing for fun or for work, I'm just limited on what exactly I can do.  If anyone is having issues accessing the content and knows how I can improve that, please do let me know, anything I can do to make it easier for you to enjoy and make use of the content I will do if I'm able.

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The water leak saga continues.  Likes, comments, subscriptions all help promote the channel so I appreciate those when you do them.


First thing was a visual check and, for once, the rear screen was nice and clear.


This was a considerable improvement since it had been fogging and condensing inside, so I was cautiously optimistic.  A check in the boot pocket also showed pretty much no water ingress.


However, a check of the rear light cluster shows that water is still getting into it somehow.  I really can't figure this one out (PRESENT DAY ME:  and still can't, I'm stumped by this one) but at least now the water doesn't seem to be overflowing out of it and into the boot, so it's probably draining the correct way now.


I think looked for water ingress and saw that it seemed to be coming through the a pillar to sill seam on the front door opening, certainly both sides of the seal were wet in this location and there was no obvious sign of water higher up.  I made my first attempt at sealing by loading it up with fresh sealant, even though it didn't look like it was holed.  My guess was that maybe there was a pinhole here or something of that sort.


Not so, and I'll let you know why in a little bit.  The other suggested ingress point was the door itself which, given the BX was doing this, was a fair suggestion.  I removed the door card - the capping is separate on Maestros and stays on the car, so no fiddling about with the lock knob required - to discover no obvious sign of ingress.  In fact, I was surprised at just how untouched everything was behind the door card, the membrane looks to have never been tampered with and there was no sign of water coming through here at all.


The only water sign was on the splash guard on the speaker.  The front driver's door speaker is the only one that works even marginally well and has a massive section completely missing from the cone.  It looks like the water that drains into the door is the cause of this.  I recently ordered some new speakers, they'll be here in a few months since their coming from, to quote Granny Weatherwax, "forn parts" but since this update is from the past, I just put that speaker back in the door and it works well enough for now.


I was at a bit of a loss on this one since there's no obvious sign of the water getting in.  I pulled off the gutter trim and unscrewed the end trims (no photo, that bit is in the video) and didn't find anything amiss there.  There was a bit of a gap where the side and centre panels of the roof overlap and meet the windscreen seal but, since the windscreen is bonded and the trim is just a trim, that shouldn't be the issue.  Nothing ventured, nothing gained, I put the gutter back together and squirted some Captain Tolley's in the seam which after a little while appeared inside the car where the water was always showing up.


This was a bit of a Eureka moment because it proved one way water was getting in.  Since I knew exactly where I'd put the Captain Tolley's in, and could see where it was coming out, I now knew the issue in part at least was the windscreen bonding had failed.  The bonding has failed too much for the Captain Tolley's to seal it up so I I'll be using some Arbomast in a future update.  Was joined by an assistant as well, show willing, but works at their own pace.


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  • 2 weeks later...

Bonus video!

Just some cold start and snow footage for you to enjoy.  Here's some snapshots too.







Tyres weren't as bad as I was expecting on our slippery street either, so that was something, but the Meastro definitely doesn't like the sub-zero temps, at least until it had warmed up properly.

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It's that time again.  I'll do the proper words and pictures update a bit later when I've got more time to devote to it than just chucking a link up to a video.  Interaction helps promote the channel and motivates me to do more, especially if there's content you found useful.

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Now that I'd identified the most obvious points for the water getting in, it was time to try and put a stop to it.  First up was the quick fix, that being using the Lanchester's hat to keep the rain off the key suspect areas.


This proved to be pretty effective until Storm Bella tore one of the elastic straps out, thankfully only tearing the stitching not the fabric, so I could easily sew that back together.  After drying the car out and repairing the cover, I think applied butyl tape to the rear driver's side light cluster which looked to be the most obvious ingress point at the back.  I was probably too much but at least there wasn't really going to be any way this wouldn't seal.


At the front, I applied some Arbomast to the window seal.  The front and rear screens are bonded on the Maestro, with a rubbery-plastic trim to fill the gap.  Since the Captain Tolley's had proven the screen was leaking, the first thing I did was seal up where it looked like the leak was.  I didn't go all the way around the seal, preferring to just do where I knew it was leaking.  If it leaked more afterwards then I'd apply more until it was sealed up fully.  I prefer to put a little on where the leak appears to be and work outwards on these things rather than just smothering everything in sealant straight away.  Not the tidiest job because I wiped it off rather than using a scraper.


Initial signs were promising.


As an aside, the front driver's door top hinge has a fair bit of play in it, probably a worn out door pin.  The Princess has the same issue and I haven't been able to find replacement pins for either.  The first owner has been in here and done a repair that I haven't disturbed, I'm not entirely sure what it's supposed to be doing and since the door still works I'm opting to leave it alone.  The right metal clamp with allen headed bolts shouldn't be there. 


Water was also found to be coming in through the tailgate somehow.  The foam on the back of the trim panel was gone so I replaced it with butyl tape.




Then it rained after I'd sealed things up, typically, so I had to reseal everything.



It was still coming in at the front, but not as bad.  I felt like I was on the right track with this one.  Just requires patience to get to the bottom of it.


To finish, I was fed up of the wipers juddering in the rain and while the front ones didn't look that old I thought it best to replace them.  Sunday during lockdown wasn't the best time for wiper shopping but since I didn't want to wait I headed to Halfords and spent considerably more than I wanted to on a full compliment of three Bosch wipers.  Usefully, the Maestro takes the same size wipers front and rear so it was at least easy to get that done and replacement was done in Halford's car park.



There's an occasional judder from the driver's wiper if the screen isn't quite wet enough, but these are otherwise fine.  No noticeable difference over much cheaper offerings but perhaps these will last more than a year before needing to be replaced and that's why they're more pricey.  We shall have to wait and find out I suppose.


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A year and a half on from replacing mine with Bosch wipers and they're still working great. I think they'll work well on the Maestro, also interesting to see they used uniform wiper sizes from the front and rear- I've never seen that before.

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That's reassuring to know on the longevity.  It is odd that Maestro wipers are the same size all round, I can't think of another car I've had dealings with that's the same, there's usually one out of the three wipers that's different, even the BX had different sized wipers front and rear and that only had one each end.

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I put brand new bosch wipers on the xsara when I first got it as a smeary screen in  the dark is my major car hate. Despite being used to clean a dusty screen on a car that's sat for weeks frequently their still good. 

I had a brief flit into aero blades but their not always springy enough for curved screens (could never get it to sit on the 406)so I went back to the older style and they've been brilliant. Always bosch from ebay too, if their fakes their good fakes

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I reckon that hinge pin 'repair' is to stop a slightly loose pin 'walking' up out of it's hole. In a worst case, of you needed one, a local engineering place could probably whip one up for not a lot.

How does that Captain Tolleys work, I've got a screen leak on my LDV camper, common apparently, that refuses to be fixed, I think that may be the next step.

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  • vulgalour changed the title to Maestro, please. - Fabricobbling

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