Harrison's Garage - BROWN Granada

[Surface Rust]

I feel your pain, just before Christmas I had only one operational car out of six and that was due its MOT. 

Fortunately it is a Honda so I had nothing to worry about and I'm now back up to the comfort level of having two on the road.

2026 life goal is to get 5 working so I can drive a different one to work each day.

Don't worry, you'll get through this difficult time!

 

[sierraman]

Working in that frost… you are made of sterner stuff than me! 

[Rust Collector]

10 hours ago, rob88h said:

The XM is part way through an alternator swap, which is a right bollock of a job and it’s sitting there while I come to terms with removing some extra bits just so I can manipulate the replacement alternator into place. And daylight. Waiting for free time and daylight to align. 

Ah I’m really sorry that it took me a while to get that alternator out to you mate. Fingers crossed it sorts out the issues you were having with it!

[JakeT]

If it helps I spent the weekend before Christmas fixing my ‘modern’ (2005) daily with a wiring issue else I’d have been stranded until the new year. Bloody old cars.

 

surely though, the answer to this is buying another car?

[rob88h]

I too was fixing* our modern in the weeks before Christmas. 

😆

The answer is normally always to buy another car, to whit I got a Mondeo a few weeks ago.
My previous post does sound a bit doom and gloom, but the Volvo is almost back on the road, so I engaged full responsible adult mode and didn’t buy another new car (although I did spend a few hours on Facebook Marketplace…)

@Rust Collector- no worries on the alternator delivery, it’s still greatly appreciated. I only got stuck into the XM just now as the Volvo had the wrong bits when I came to do that job. The problem with the XM is I don’t have enough elbows to remount the replacement alternator, it doesn’t want to sit on its mount. I think I need to remove some more stuff so I can bosch it on (pun intended, but tenuous, it’s actually a Mitsubishi branded alternator)

49 minutes ago, Surface Rust said:

2026 life goal is to get 5 working so I can drive a different one to work each day.

I’d be happy with three 😆. The two we need and a spare. 

 

[rob88h]

The new and correct track rod end arrived for the Volvo and was simplicity itself. I counted the turns winding the old one off and winding the new one on etc, so the tracking should still be good.

I did have a real battle with the lower control arm ball joints though. They split just fine*, which is what I was expecting to be the problem, but the real problem was getting them physically out and the new ones in. The bracket that holds the ball joint to the LCA goes into a pocket on the LCA and the LCA wouldn’t drop low enough. After I asked a Shitter, RoverFolkUs showed me the way in removing the knuckle from the strut to get enough clearance to get the shank of the balljoint into the knuckle first then line then knuckle back up with the strut. It worked a treat.

While up on stands I treated it to it’s 5k Oil and Filter with added nerd points for having a Sharpie to hand.

VOLVIMUR!! Inflection of volvō (first-person plural present passive indicative). I AM ROLLING!!

(People called Romanes, they go, the house, etc)

 

[rob88h]

With the Volvo back on frontline duties I’ve been cracking on with the XM. 

@Rust Collector  kindly sent a spare alternator of unknown health from his spares. The going theory, because #oldcars, was that the “new” alternator would be broken… but in a different and frustrating way and wouldn’t charge - as the old alternator seemed to be overcharging. This then leaving me with two duds of the one fitment type that is supposedly not DIY serviceable.

Because of the LHM pump the alternator had to come out downwards out of the wheel arch area. Not too much to remove other than the wheel (natch), arch liner and a subframe brace. If the car had an AC compressor I think this route would be impossible. It only took one session to get the old one undone, tapped off its bracket and manipulated out of the gap. Getting the replacement one in was a real pig! Try as I might, I could not get it to sit on its bracket without performing near Rubix Cube levels of logic movements, all holding an alternator in the air at arms length, round a corner, blind.

Looks easy in a picture😂

With that in and everything reconnected and tensioned I was actually nervous to start the car because I didn’t want to a) spend the money on a new alternator or refurb and b) go through it all again fitting another. 

Thankfully, even at 2000rpm with main beam and the heater blower fan on we have NO charge warning light. Major relief. I’m tentatively saying this is fixed!

As it’s been off the road for (I think) 8 weeks, in the shade and in winter, it has gone a bit mouldy… It’s on SORN as well right now, so I’m waiting until Feb to take it out on the road since we’re so close and I had a few other things I wanted to look at. 

[rob88h]

“Other things”

I’ve changed the black paint oil and filter. Seriously, I’ve had old diesels before, but this has stained my funnel 🤣

I’ve thought some more about the exhaust. This XM could do with a new middle (of three!) mufflers. 

(will rotate this photo one day**
**probably won’t rotate)

Since acquiring the XM I’ve been casually looking for an exhaust and I really think they’re not obtainable. Plenty for the 2.0L pez/2.1D, which I think are common and the same routing as what I need, but the turbo diesel I think I’ve read has bigger diameter pipes. I’ve bitten the bullet and have knowingly ordered the wrong exhaust from AutoDoc (so I may never get it or it’ll arrive way after the car has expired anyway) and the current plan is to take it to PipeCraft with a pack of biscuits, money and hope and ask that they can adapt it to fit. 
 

I’m also trying to address the squeaky brake. Which is actually a pad-eaty brake. 

I think these pads are only 6000 miles old. The prime suspect is a sticky calliper, so I’ve stripped it ready to clean it as best I can and then red rubber grease everything. I’ve also manage to get some NOS Bendix/Citroen pads! 

It’s a bit of an odd design in that there is only one main slider and a small pin at the bottom. So it’s all a bit cantilevered and prone to jamming and I’ve read on the XM forum of the little pin sticking and causing this sort of bind. 
 

Finally, I still need to de-mould the interior, but I’m hoping to be back on the road in February. 

 

[rob88h]

It’s back on the King’s Highway 🎉

First of all I had to finish off the stuck calliper. I took it all apart, cleaned up the sliders with an oily rag and my kids toothbrush and put some raspberry coulis on the moving parts. 

It was still, however, stuck as a stuck thing, that seemed to be the pin at the bottom. 
(…The next series of pics are all upside down)

The pin goes through these holes and this stainless steel channel, but the pin itself didn’t fit!

I slid out the stainless insert and knocked out some rust flakes and filed down some of the swelling from the corrosion. 
With the insert back in the pin fits the channel. Once re-assembled you can move the carrier in and out with just your little finger. Satisfaction. 
Finally everything was reassembled. 

More meat has returned once more and hopefully the problem is solved. Time will tell. The calliper could do with a deeper refurb I think; on winding the pistons back the boot/skirt wasn’t looking so clever. Also the NOS pads I was so proud of were wrong, d’oh, so I had to wait for some others. 
 

Next I de moulded the important parts, bought some road tax and took it for a test run. 
 

 

Still to do as ongoing improvements are: to muddle through the exhaust and to clean up/dry out the interior a bit. The passenger door pocket was filling with water - which I hope was to do with it being up at a funny angle on axle stands or something, as it hasn’t leaked until now. An eye is to be kept on that. Also the ignition barrel is now being stupid and not switching circuits on an off as it should in the various key positions. I’m hoping this is just from the damp and will dry out, but as with most things XM electrical, there are pages on these being know to be faulty, so maybe this is just a teaser to the next chapter…

[rob88h]

A (partial) new exhaust, also brought to you by the company “P”, just like with the Volvo. 

As expected, the mufflers measure up correctly, the routing appears the same but the pipe diameter is smaller. This service section is joined with a marmon type flange, so I’m hoping that can take up the 5mm diameter difference to the original currently installed exhaust. I’m going to try this with Pipe Craft who’ve done me good service before and see if they can make it work. I’ve not booked anything yet though. 
 

Drying it out has gone well - in part, despite the weather we’ve been having. However, I was taking my dogs out (in two by two, hurrah, hurrah) when the XM became my Ark as I waded under this railway bridge. 

It suffered only the one fault on the brake pad sensors, which has since dried out and not returned.

It’s done almost 500 miles this week, without any more warnings, buzzing or screeching, so I’m calling the alternator and brake work sorted!

A treat was in order for its good behaviour, so it now has some dealer recreation plates replacing the older delaminated ones. Lipstick on a pig?

According to the Owners Handbook, Bellamy Citroën was the original supplying dealer, in Lee near Eltham, SE London. I seem to recall GC on the reg corroborating that. 

The key barrel is still being a bit of a dick. I’ve learned some coping mechanisms, but I forsee a repair or replacement ignition barrel in its future. 

[wesacosa]

18 minutes ago, rob88h said:

A (partial) new exhaust, also brought to you by the company “P”, just like with the Volvo. 

As expected, the mufflers measure up correctly, the routing appears the same but the pipe diameter is smaller. This service section is joined with a marmon type flange, so I’m hoping that can take up the 5mm diameter difference to the original currently installed exhaust. I’m going to try this with Pipe Craft who’ve done me good service before and see if they can make it work. I’ve not booked anything yet though. 
 

Drying it out has gone well - in part, despite the weather we’ve been having. However, I was taking my dogs out (in two by two, hurrah, hurrah) when the XM became my Ark as I waded under this railway bridge. 

It suffered only the one fault on the brake pad sensors, which has since dried out and not returned.

It’s done almost 500 miles this week, without any more warnings, buzzing or screeching, so I’m calling the alternator and brake work sorted!

A treat was in order for its good behaviour, so it now has some dealer recreation plates replacing the older delaminated ones. Lipstick on a pig?

According to the Owners Handbook, Bellamy Citroën was the original supplying dealer, in Lee near Eltham, SE London. I seem to recall GC on the reg corroborating that. 

The key barrel is still being a bit of a dick. I’ve learned some coping mechanisms, but I forsee a repair or replacement ignition barrel in its future. 

I didn't realise it was from this neck of the woods.  

I wonder if the ignition barrel is like the door and boot barrel in that if the key isn't fully pushed home the barrel just spins

[rob88h]

I love this place. In the past they’ve sorted my Sierra, my Granada and now they’ve sorted the XM!

As a reminder, the middle muffler went from this:

to this:

(fortunately the uploader has both of those upside down, which aides comparisons, ha)

The rearmost muffler had also split along the seam at the top unbeknownst to me.

Now my little boy no longer yells “TRACTUUR” when I command the mighty XUD into life. There is also probably a lot less carbon monoxide in our lives.

The XM can add recovery vehicle to its repertoire too, having tugged the Mondeo out of the mud. 

In fact, it’s been doing all-round good work lately and is nearly constantly on the move earning its living! So much so I’ve had the Volvo on SORN this month because I always choose the XM. Make hay while the Sun shines* they say.

*when the Sun does actually shine and it stops raining I’m expecting all the LHM to spontaneously fall out and an innocuous but mission critical yet unobtainable component to spoil my fun. 
 

Until then though, another mileage decade has been achieved:

 

[wesacosa]

such a good looking car. I  do miss mine

[BorniteIdentity]

10 years ago - I took this photo in Cambridge. It came up on my social memories earlier, so thought I’d see if it’s still going. Was delighted to learn it is. Then realised what Mini it is!

 

 

[Dan302]

31 minutes ago, BorniteIdentity said:

10 years ago - I took this photo in Cambridge. It came up on my social memories earlier, so thought I’d see if it’s still going. Was delighted to learn it is. Then realised what Mini it is!

 

 

That's exactly how I remember minis from my childhood, stunning!

[High Jetter]

1 hour ago, Dan302 said:

That's exactly how I remember minis from my childhood, stunning!

Ah, modern ones. I'm older 😀

[rob88h]

2 hours ago, BorniteIdentity said:

10 years ago - I took this photo in Cambridge.

That’s awesome!

It’s not long before I bought it, which was in May 2017.

I got it from near Bedford from, I suspect, a flipper, but a lot of its history is from the Cambridge area. “Tim Brinton Cars” which is all round St Neots, Bury St Edmunds, Ely way (I forget which specifically this was) sold it second hand nearly new and it stayed in that area. It includes  some restoration work at “Mr. Mini”, who is still going. He just about remembered the car, but he didn’t want it back for a second round, haha, and was unfortunately retiring soon.

I believe the old dear that drove this around Cambridgeshire was called Mavis, but I’d have to go check the receipts.

 

The Mini is currently festering in a lean-to making the most of its recent Historic status. It’s still with us, but hanging on for grim death. When the weather improves I’ll hopefully get it out on the roads again. 

[Tommyboy12]

There is always something charming about a ropey looking standard Mini

[BorniteIdentity]

Here's the original.  If you want the uncompressed one drop me a line and I'll email it to you. The forum software compresses to fuck.

[Stinkwheel]

All this Mini action is making me jumpy, note to self, must finish the other halfs mini.

[BorniteIdentity]

2 minutes ago, Stinkwheel said:

All this Mini action is making me jumpy, note to self, must finish the other halfs mini.

Get another Mini.  You can then do them both.  Things are fun together.

Good luck. We're all counting on you.

[Six-cylinder]

My Mini was a complete wreck, but 8 months later I was driving it about. Through my local Mini club, a now freind did the welding at mates rates, but the big thing for a speedy return to the road was I could buy any parts for next day delivery. It is such a pleasure to get parts on demand, unlike some of my cars searching Europe for them. 

 

[rob88h]

There are quite a few A-reg Minis on here. It’s nice to see. 

 

Meanwhile, the XM is continuing to chugg along nicely doing most of my journeys.

[rob88h]

#66 - Ford Mondeo, 2016

Hers's a bit of a retrospective post to keep up the timeline: 
Back in December 2025 "Big Burp" was acquired due to the sudden and very sad demise of the Focus. Despite the Mondeo being already 10 years old and only £2500 it feels like a thoroughly modern car, too nice for me. We bought it on about 140k with no paperwork and have pressed it into immediate intensive use. It has big boots to fill in the dependable-yet-neglected role in our collection to outdo its predecessor, the Focus. 
(…If I post about this car it'll probably be in the mk4/5 Mondeo owners thread).

Long may it serve us in our family pursuits!

[rob88h]

On 10/03/2026 at 12:12, rob88h said:

Long may it serve us in our family pursuits!

 

One day after posting hope for a trouble free future! - I cursed it. 

Stranded on the A12:

DTC:P253F,Engine oil deteriorated - Signal shape/waveform failure , Current,
DTC:P26A3,Engine coolant bypass valve - Range/Performance , Signal amplitude too low, Current
DTC:P2681,Engine coolant bypass valve control circuit; open - Signal amplitude too low , Current,
DTC:P0251,Injector pump fuel metering control - Faulty signal , Current,
DTC:P0087,Fuel pressure control valve - No symptom , Current,
DTC:P02FA,Diesel intake air flow position sensor - Faulty signal , Current,
 

I’ve drained the diesel/ oil. It’s running fine, so not sure how consequential some of the others are. Concerned to see fuel pump and fuel pressure DTCs along with my really runny diesel filled oil. Let’s see how it goes for a bit…

 

EDIT: The XM saves the day again, collecting the kids from the frankly quite stressful A12 verge. 

[sierraman]

On 12/03/2026 at 11:05, rob88h said:

 

One day after posting hope for a trouble free future! - I cursed it. 

Stranded on the A12:

DTC:P253F,Engine oil deteriorated - Signal shape/waveform failure , Current,
DTC:P26A3,Engine coolant bypass valve - Range/Performance , Signal amplitude too low, Current
DTC:P2681,Engine coolant bypass valve control circuit; open - Signal amplitude too low , Current,
DTC:P0251,Injector pump fuel metering control - Faulty signal , Current,
DTC:P0087,Fuel pressure control valve - No symptom , Current,
DTC:P02FA,Diesel intake air flow position sensor - Faulty signal , Current,
 

I’ve drained the diesel/ oil. It’s running fine, so not sure how consequential some of the others are. Concerned to see fuel pump and fuel pressure DTCs along with my really runny diesel filled oil. Let’s see how it goes for a bit…

 

EDIT: The XM saves the day again, collecting the kids from the frankly quite stressful A12 verge. 

What did it turn out to be? 

[rob88h]

On 14/03/2026 at 08:30, sierraman said:

What did it turn out to be? 

It did it again on Saturday, but it started up again this time so we just drove it home. The only DTC logged was P0251,Injector pump fuel metering control /21 signal less than minimum.

I think that is asking for a certain fuel pressure and not achieving it, so it shits the bed.

I took it for a drive hooked up to Forscan and the desired and actual fuel pressures are different.

I’m going to change the fuel filter as I’ve no idea when that was done anyway - but I think it’s more probable that I should be doing a leak-off test (whilst praying the the HP fuel pump Gods).

 

 

[rob88h]

AutoShite? Completed it m9

The £13 Roffle win XM is now running veg. 
My backup car is a (free) Volvo 440 that’s on SORN. 
 

[High Jetter]

2 hours ago, rob88h said:

AutoShite? Completed it m9

The £13 Roffle win XM is now running veg. 
My backup car is a (free) Volvo 440 that’s on SORN. 
 

Grandad on life support?

[rob88h]

I don't want to say it too loudly, but the daily cars (mostly the XM) are behaving nicely. That's usually my cue to scroll through Facebook Marketplace for some additional tat to spoil my free time, but in an unprecedented move I've turned my attention to one of my pre-existing projects - the Granada!!!
I have a few cars that have just perpetually sat around, so much so I don't really see them as projects anymore, let alone cars. They sort of just exist as part of the furniture.
Well, the time has come for the Granada! It's going to get some* attention, at least, until something else no doubt takes over. The plan is to get it running and driving and on the road, nothing fancy, I'm not intending on completely restoring it or anything. I just want to drive it.

As a reminder; I don't think it's seen the road since the early 90's. The rear brakes were completely stripped out (I presume they were seized solid when it was discovered), it leaks fuel, there's no exhaust and I've not had it running* for a few years now. So, I think the best place to start is the brakes…
A few years ago I'd started to replace the rear flexi lines and a bracket that held the rear brake line t-piece fell off the body. That was the moment my mojo died. 

It should be spot welded on, but the weld mustn't've been any good from the factory as it's come off cleanly and there's no corrosion to blame it on. Given it's only carrying the weight of the Tee (which is also held in place by the hard lines clipped to the body) and force from movement of the flexis I decided JB weld was sufficient - and it sets the tone for the level of professionalism in the recommission work.

Huzzah! The next problem at the back was that the LHS brake line had no union at where the wheel cylinder should be, and the RHS union was fused to the brake line and not able to spin for fitting it to a new wheel cylinder. Using some borrowed tools and a precisely radiused thumb I made up a couple of new brake lines using the old ones as a pattern and I was pretty pleased with the result.

 

The new lines allowed for fitment of new wheel cylinders. A satisfying moment given they've been sitting in a box in the boot for maybe 5 years. Fluid was fed to the rear circuit and all seems well.

I then had to guess my way through assembling the rear brake components from some grainy workshop images and my "bag of bits" that came with the car. I think I got the self-adjusters on the wrong sides initially, so had to take the bastard things apart again and re-assemble them a second time to get them in the opposite sides. I'm still not convinced I've got the adjuster right, applying the handbrake didn't seem to rotate the adjusters.

Having checked again… I think they're wrong now… and they were right the first time. FML.

(Pictures to come, so do check back.  The uploader is being a pillock. EDIT: uploader un-pillocked).