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Posted

When I took my filter out after 1000 miles of svo it is was clear as a bell.

Posted

FFS how can filtered waste/new/old/failed/newlabour/contaminated/filthy oil of any type clog the engine filter if no1 is smaller than no2? Of course unless petrol's been added and precipitates fall out. Bviously.

Posted

Ignoring the (possible) troll I have to say I've never had a problem with new veg oil and everything I've used it on has run smoother and quicker with no problems at all.

 

Leonard: would you suggest it's possible to sit the used veg oil for a hwile in the right temps (10 degrees plus) then run it through a fine micron filter and just add a splash of something like diesel or petrol? I'd like to make this work without going to stacks of trouble or having to store anything dodgy to mix it with.

Posted
Leonard: would you suggest it's possible to sit the used veg oil for a hwile in the right temps (10 degrees plus) then run it through a fine micron filter and just add a splash of something like diesel or petrol? I'd like to make this work without going to stacks of trouble or having to store anything dodgy to mix it with.

 

Sit a good few galls of the stuff for a month, dead rats will eventually decompose, live ones will come for a slurp. Mix with 5-10% diesel if its FC then filter the top 90%. 5-1-1. I put through two half microns for extra go. Surprising what a difference it makes.

Posted

OK! So?...

 

'What is the 'newest' car you can get that is bomb proof?'

 

No! I don't mean blast proof! I mean one that will survive 'The Bomb', an electromagnetic pulse weapon, a solar flare or just the coming armageddon :shock: ... one that doesn't have any electronics that can be fried and stop it working? :P

Posted

Every car would be disabled by an EMP. Even without an ECU you still have a fuel pump and spark to worry about

Posted

Old diesels would survive. Mechanical fuel pump, no spark. That said, most would have a stop solenoid that would shut off if the power went I think, so you'd have to disable that first.

Posted

So

isn't realistic then? :( (should be using the starting handle!)
Guest Leonard Hatred
Posted
Leonard: would you suggest it's possible to sit the used veg oil for a hwile in the right temps (10 degrees plus) then run it through a fine micron filter and just add a splash of something like diesel or petrol? I'd like to make this work without going to stacks of trouble or having to store anything dodgy to mix it with.

 

Yeah, just filter the good oil that's settled above the shitey stuff at the bottom. If you add petrol or diesel before settling, it settles quicker and at lower temperatures. There's an obvious divide between the shit grey/white stuff at the bottom and the golden oil at the top. If the divide isn't clear, don't use it.

In summer if your car has a heated filter or a fuel heat exchanger you can run a 100% mix of waste oil without any issues.

 

All my setup consists of is some 25l drums for clean oil, a tarp to cover the waste oil drums, 1 micron filter and a home-made filter stand.

 

Old diesels would survive. Mechanical fuel pump, no spark. That said, most would have a stop solenoid that would shut off if the power went I think, so you'd have to disable that first.

 

All you'd need to do is unscrew the stop solenoid, take the pin out, and screw it back in. TOP ELECTROMAGNETIC PULSE ADVICE.

Posted

Crikey Imo, that's the most bizarre thing I've ever seen! Demonstrate your new van by burying it!

Posted
Crikey Imo, that's the most bizarre thing I've ever seen! Demonstrate your new van by burying it!

 

Isn't it just? Bizarre! But not as much so as some folks round here seriously take their shite without so much of a pinch of salt! :roll:

Posted
Leonard: would you suggest it's possible to sit the used veg oil for a hwile in the right temps (10 degrees plus) then run it through a fine micron filter and just add a splash of something like diesel or petrol? I'd like to make this work without going to stacks of trouble or having to store anything dodgy to mix it with.

 

Yeah, just filter the good oil that's settled above the shitey stuff at the bottom. If you add petrol or diesel before settling, it settles quicker and at lower temperatures. There's an obvious divide between the shit grey/white stuff at the bottom and the golden oil at the top. If the divide isn't clear, don't use it.

In summer if your car has a heated filter or a fuel heat exchanger you can run a 100% mix of waste oil without any issues.

 

All my setup consists of is some 25l drums for clean oil, a tarp to cover the waste oil drums, 1 micron filter and a home-made filter stand.

 

Old diesels would survive. Mechanical fuel pump, no spark. That said, most would have a stop solenoid that would shut off if the power went I think, so you'd have to disable that first.

 

All you'd need to do is unscrew the stop solenoid, take the pin out, and screw it back in. TOP ELECTROMAGNETIC PULSE ADVICE.

 

 

Nice one cheers, I shall experiment with that.

Posted

Sorry LH, just to clarify something: If I get one empty clean container and one full container of waste veg oil can I stand the waste for a while then carefully pour it into the clean drum and put a filter between them? I'm thinking if I filter it through until the colour starts changing and/or the crud starts coming through I can then put diesel (or whatever) as an additive (sp?) to the clean drum then possibly filter once more? I would surmise I'd be left with about 60-75% of filtered veg oil in the new drum which I would then top up with diesel or whatever as above? I think the best way is to experiment with a very small amount to start off with and see how it works.

 

I can almost certainly score some nominally empty 25 litre solvent drums with Tri-sure caps and can get a brass tap for them which may help. The only problem then would be that the tap end is the only opening so if turned over (or if I knock a drum stand up) then the crap would be directly near to the tap.

 

I hope that makes sense and doesn't look stupid as I suspect it might :cry:

Posted

Land Rover magazines regularly have features on how to make 'proper' biodiseasel. I've got one somewhere with a feature about such things.

 

IF I remember, I'll give it to ya next time I see ya.

Posted

No great secret. Have done 50k plus on 90%+ straight cooking oil. Free, from le pub. What's the huge fuss? If you run a shite vehicle it won't complain. Only the C21st crap which will dissolve :mrgreen:

Posted

Cheers Pete.

Guest Leonard Hatred
Posted
No great secret. Have done 50k plus on 90%+ straight cooking oil. Free, from le pub. What's the huge fuss? If you run a shite vehicle it won't complain. Only the C21st crap which will dissolve :mrgreen:

 

Nobody said it was a secret.

Plenty of shite vehicles will complain, especially those with old fuel hoses or Lucas/CAV injection pumps.

Posted

Remember all those little stick-on silicon pennants you used to get? The ones with place names on, so you could make the back/side window of the car look like a grand tour of UK seaside towns. Where the hell did they go? Surely they're so retro, they're due a comeback? Or does some anally retentive type have a massive collection of them?

Posted

Check out isaydingdong (link to pennants here http://stores.ebay.co.uk/I-Say-Ding-Don ... =173460483) Funny enough the Felixstowe ones he sells i had specially made up for my old 1602 as i thought it was funny at the time, Then whilst watching The Royale Familys christmas special last year i saw the same sticker stuck to the wall of the caravan they was staying in.

Posted

3732364018_0b29ce4ae4_z.jpg

 

 

If I had been to Pixieland Fun Park, I would have kept quiet about it :)

Posted

If I had a 'Wales' badge on my car I'd put the window through :lol:

Posted

Not sure if we've had this one but why do you get fewer miles from the lower half of the fuel guage than from the upper part? Are they calibrated so that when the needle sits at half full (or half empty, depending on your point of view) you've actually used more than half the tank?

Posted
Not sure if we've had this one but why do you get fewer miles from the lower half of the fuel guage than from the upper part? Are they calibrated so that when the needle sits at half full (or half empty, depending on your point of view) you've actually used more than half the tank?

 

Because the sender only goes 90% up the tank plus you have the fuel in the pipe.

Posted

The stickered window picture.....

 

Left hand side, halfway up.

 

I swore that said "I TIGHT SNATCH" when I first looked.

Posted

I realise the infinite number of variables in play here, but... :wink:

 

Range Rover 2.5DHSE auto, 98S, 186k, rebuilt motor, newish suspension bags, generally good nick - is £1800 fair?

 

I thank you.

Posted

Sounds good.

 

I'd want proof of a new radiator on there with the rebuilt engine, I'd also want a history of gearbox services because it's heading toward that delicate time.

I'd also rebuild the compressor and valve block if the springs have been changed, but that costs sweeties.

 

Watch out for lower tailgate corrosion (nowhere near as bad as the classics), drive it in circles at full lock, both ways and back and forward, and listen for clanks and bangs. And take it up to 70 or so and feel for vibrations.

There's a lot if car moving around on a lot of suspension.

 

Not sure you got a DHSE in '98 though...

Posted
... some really good advice on Rangies ...

Cheers, Tayne - appreciated :)

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