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Posted

I've worked in pits most of my life and generally commercial ones used regularly are ok, domestic one used once in a blue moon a bit more prone to flooding. When I worked for the Forestry the pit in their new main workshop was about 60-80 feet long and it used to  flood enough over a weekend that boards covering it up when not in use were floating. Water used to seep through the walls above the level off the recessed 240v light tubes.Water seeping down from the fells I guess, where I am now 100 yard from a dock on flat ground we have no bother. I've never used one with a drain, they usually just have a 'sink' so you can bale/pump out. Can be a bit of a hazard for young kids.

Posted

You could add a 'sump' to the design and have one of those automatically triggered pumps to keep it empty. You can buy them with the float on the pump so it's as simple as drop it in and plug it in. Along with running a drain outside of course.

 

I've also been thinking the edge of the pit must need some reinforcement around it so the pit doesn't collapse

Posted

At a guess, you would need a concrete former for the sides that’s thick. The one I had was a death trap, it was just a hole lined with some bricks.

 

I’d be tempted to get a mech mate, one of those GRP things. At least it’d be waterproof.

  • Like 2
Posted

Have any shiters got inspection pits in their garages? I have a garage but am not allowed to modify it, however if we buy somewhere ever (insert generic millenial whinge about property prices here) then I have said that it absolutely has to have a garage, and I intend to fit a pit, probably one of the vacuum formed poly-wolly-doodle ones?

 

I have a few questions.

 

How overstated is the risk of filling it up with carbon monoxide and killing yourself?

 

Are they as useful, less useful or more useful than they appear. What appeals to me is that it gives me access to the underside of my vehicles without having to have a 2-storey garage with a lift. They are pretty lo-tech too so can't really go wrong?

 

Do i need to be concerned about drainage or can I put sand in the bottomto soak up anything grim and then periodically sweep it out?

 

How likely am I to drive the car down the fucking thing, totally wrecking the car and pit in one short period of idiocy?

 

I regularly do my own servicing of the cars I own, and have wished for better access for all manner of jobs in the past. Changing the Almera gearbox would have been substantially easier with one, replacing an exhaust ditto. Properly cleaning and undersealing the cars would have been a sinch too.

 

Am I missing anything? Can you get a cover that'd take the weight of a portly human, or even better an entire car so when not in use it could be covered to prevent it becoming a trap for when I'm pissed and forget its there (for example)?

 

My folks have had a pit in the garage of their house for 30 years (garage built and pit installed by previous owner), I've used it fairly extensively man and boy.

 

The only time I've had a bit of an "oh shit" moment was when looking at a fuel leak on our Morris Minor. You have to be very careful when doing fuel related stuff because, as I've had it explained to me, the fuel fumes essentially push the oxygen out of the pit. An occurrence made far more dangerous if the car is still mostly over the top of said pit. I got out jolly quickly and have been more careful since.

I have had cars running over the pit while I've been underneath and had no issues, though I wasn't under for long. Car exhaust facing out of the garage door at the time, of course.

 

To be able to stand up under a car rather than lying on the floor is, obviously, incredibly helpful for a lot of jobs. Not least because you actually have room to move, and can get more leverage on recalcitrant bolts etc. I would suggest having a breeze block or two in one corner of the pit to aid egress depending on depth of pit

 

The water table at my folks place is high, so the pit can fill with water during periods of persistant rain. However, it hasn't had more than an inch or so in the bottom for the last few months. They have a submersible pump which empties it of water in short order when necessary.

 

Their pit is covered by wooden boards (can get measurements if required) which I've driven over in a number of cars and never had an issue, though they have mainly been small/classic cars so are fairly light. Nor have I driven into the pit, amazingly. Moving the car around the opening is very much something to be approached with full attention, and you'll be fine.

 

Pictures and measurements available if interested, or required.

Posted

I’d look into those dual platform lifts personally .

Having served my time down a pit I hate them with a passion

Posted

Or if you can get the height a two post lift. Much easier to work on than any pit. Makes doing stuff like driveshafts, struts, sumps, wheel bearings etc much easier.

  • Like 1
Posted

A question from a non-mechanic...

 

My dad has a trolley jack that doesn't pump up. I think it's over 30 years old. Is it possible to repair something like this?

Posted

A question from a non-mechanic...

 

My dad has a trolley jack that doesn't pump up. I think it's over 30 years old. Is it possible to repair something like this?

 

Simplest thing is it just needs refilling with hydraulic oil. For a couple of quid it's worth a try if it's only recently started not pumping up.

 

If the seals have dried out or perished they can be replaced for pence, but if you scratch, mar or damage any of the surfaces where plungers or pistons travel then there is a high chance of leaks or the lift ram giving way at no notice, so use plastic spudgers and tools to remove and replace any seals. You have to be very very clean when working on hydraulics. Thoroughly clean any dirt, grease, particles etc off before you open anything.

 

It may just be easier to buy a new jack.

  • Like 2
Posted

Has the non-car question thread been merged into this one?

Posted

Thanks for the comments! :-D I'll take a look when I next see my dad.

Posted

Yeah you can get a trolley jack for next to nothing these days, unless it’s a good jack I’d just buy a new one.

  • Like 2
Posted

A question from a non-mechanic...

 

My dad has a trolley jack that doesn't pump up. I think it's over 30 years old. Is it possible to repair something like this?

Yes most seals etc will be off the shelf

Posted

Non motoring one here. My mains smoke alarm keeps going off. Disconnected it from mains and changed battery, and it still goes off even after I’ve held the reset down and it’s not connected to mains. Needless to say I’ve also cleaned it out with the Vac. What next???

Posted

Non motoring one here. My mains smoke alarm keeps going off. Disconnected it from mains and changed battery, and it still goes off even after I’ve held the reset down and it’s not connected to mains. Needless to say I’ve also cleaned it out with the Vac. What next???

They only last about 10 years as the radioactive but decays beyond use. If you've changed the battery and made sure the mains is working it's replacement time.

Posted

Am looking at doing a few jobs on a 2001 Astra 1.6 8v with a mate.

 

Engine light is on due to EGR giving problems and being blanked off. Is this an MOT fail on a car this old? Would drilling a hole in the blanking plate help? Read that somewhere on the web.

 

Cheers.

Posted

Am looking at doing a few jobs on a 2001 Astra 1.6 8v with a mate.

 

Engine light is on due to EGR giving problems and being blanked off. Is this an MOT fail on a car this old? Would drilling a hole in the blanking plate help? Read that somewhere on the web.

 

Cheers.

Yes it will fail. Code read it first to confirm the fault and see if the light will stay off for the test. Worst case pull the bulb for the eml.

Posted

EML failing the MOT seems a bit harsh given that the light might only indicate a minor fault!

Posted

EML failing the MOT seems a bit harsh given that the light might only indicate a minor fault!

It certainly is as I had a mazda fail on a dpf service light which was just a service reminder light but because it could also be for the dpf they failed it. Turned out it was a warning light for when the timinig chain was worn beyond a certain point that Mazda reprogrammed the ecu for without telling the owners. The light not working on a 2001 car is unlikely to get picked up by a tester unless he is really keen.

Posted

Thanks for the input on pits, the mechmate GRP one, or a slightly fancier dual-level one with a seat on runners would be brilliant. Obviously a 2 port lift would be better, but that'll require a two storey (or at least V tall single storey) garage to accomodate, and I'd have the fear that the car would tip off or something, whereas the pit appeals because the car can't fall any further if its on the garage floor.

Posted

Sister #1 has Nissan Note, which I so far have denied all knowledge of or intereest in, however she has now said it's not particularly economical, no specifics, just crap on fuel.

I know virtually nothing about these, 2006, 1.5 dci, euro 4, so is that the Renault engine, would it have a dpf?

 

My initial thoughts are possibly MAF, and I need to borrow a code reader. I have been informed no lights on the dash, but not checked anything myself.

 

Suggestions on what too look for or do I need to get a reader first?

Posted

Burn it with fire?

 

Check for fuel leaks, verify they know diesel is £1.30 a litre and £10 won't get them 100 miles any more.

 

Disconnect the MAF engines usually go into default settings - if it runs better then it's faulty. Would have thought it would be showing a light though if it's giving implausible readings.

  • Like 2
Posted

Burn it with fire?

 

She asked my advice on cars, I gave it, she ignored it, therefore I have been ignoring the Nissan/Renault thing for the last 6 months.

 

Sister #2 loves the Prius I carefully* selected.

 

*bought cheap off ebay

Posted

Cheers dodge, thats what i was thinking.

I've asked about servicing and she doesn't know when it was last done, so I've told her to pick up some filters and oil and bring it round to mine so I can have a look at/burn it.

Posted

Am looking at doing a few jobs on a 2001 Astra 1.6 8v with a mate.

 

Engine light is on due to EGR giving problem as and being blanked off. Is this an MOT fail on a car this old? Would drilling a hole in the blanking plate help? Read that somewhere on the web.

 

Cheers.

Alternatively, get one of those Bluetooth OBD2 dongle things and leave it plugged in, then sit in the viewing area and use a suitable diagnostic app on your phone to keep the light off for the duration of the test.

  • Like 3

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