MOD500 Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 The exhaust became very noisy over the space of a mile. I don't think I need a leak test to see where the problem is. Eddie Honda and Junkman 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 bit of gum gum ? sorted MOD500, tooSavvy and Junkman 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 bit of gum gum ? sortedBeans tin + coathanger n'all SORTED clayts450, MOD500 and spike60 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordperv Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 You don't need an exhaust the world needs moar noize MOD500 and DVee8 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mally Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 Looks very weldable. MOD500 and MikeR 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyrew Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 Quick weld should fix it. Question is, why did it break? Looks like a stress crack. MOD500 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 Gun gum is absolute crap. A smear of tiger seal on that id give it. MOD500 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOD500 Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 Quick weld should fix it. Question is, why did it break? Looks like a stress crack.That is the question. They like to rattle themself to death for fun. Normally it starts with a weak rusted through section but this went in one spectacular go. I think the heater pipe I recentlý fudged has been pushing against it. I would have thought so given it's flexible, but I don't believe in coincidences! I'll probably swap it with a spare for expediency then weld out on the bench. Shit. I'll have to clean the bench. M'coli 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOD500 Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 You don't need an exhaust the world needs moar noizeThe car is very underpowered. The accelerator is now the noise pedal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mally Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 Weld a couple of corner fillets at the break. Then it will break somewhere else next time. hairymel, tooSavvy, Christine and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 ^^^ Motorsport... Break/repair-reinforce/repeat... MOD500 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Bell Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 It looks a bit like a Cyclops playing a didgeridoo. HTH. MOD500 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 Weld a couple of corner fillets at the break. Then it will break somewhere else next time.Ain't that the truth! tooSavvy and MOD500 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOD500 Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 It turns out I had lost am exhaust bracket bolt. The one that's under the exhaust and can only be seen when lying on the floor. Something I generaly try to avoid. The bright marks on the exhaust show where the strap was rubbing. I don't mind repairing when I know what caused it so won't be doing the same job on a few weeks. Annoying I had picked up on the rattle on Thursday, but I normally leave rattles till the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOD500 Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 The break was fairly clean and the metal is thick enough for a good weld. It's always a bit easier when welding to a manifold. There's a lot less chasing of holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOD500 Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 This was being done while it was rain. During the dry spells I thought I'd get in a bit of golf. New bearings needed. With the offending hub removed there was a strong smell of death oil. Like that horrible smell you get taking apart a seized engine. I know the golfs aren't everyone's cup of tea but this, like most jobs on the car is easy peasy lemon diseasy. I took the old bearing racer, cut a slot with a 2mm cutting disc then used it to drive in the new racer. Then the old racer could be teased out with a screwdriver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOD500 Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 Carried on with exhaust.... Welded up fine. Not the tidiest but i don't care. Had to use a rotary grinder to clean some weld from the inside. M'coli and Eddie Honda 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOD500 Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 It was going so well I decided to slow down the pace by attempting to sever my thumb off.Superglue is great. Bit of a hassle manouvering it back into place but it's ready to go. Bootlid = tool shelf. This is one of those moments where having so many tools allows the right combination for the job. Turning this from a knuckle grazing nuisance to a relatively simple job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M'coli Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 Is it a 498cc engine or the 652cc one out of the 126? My 126 was a right bastard for shaking itself apart, especially seeing as I was 19/20 at the time so it got driven flat-out all the time. The original cylinder head had to be tapped out to take 3/8" (shank diameter) Whitworth bolts because the original 13mm holes (a/f) stripped. The replacement head had been helicoiled prior to me getting it and having a 2mm skim... Edit: I'm assuming it's a later engine as it's got the wasted spark distributor cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOD500 Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 It's the 594cc from an early 126. I prefer the 652cc but I swapped them to diagnose a fault. Using a sledge hammer to crack a nut. I'm very slowly working on a 700cc with a modified can, panda 30 head.(twin inlet) and twin carbs. 126 was my first car. They were dirt cheap in those days. Had loads of fun in that thing! Many sideways roundabout trips, parked it in a trolley bay, drove it over a public foot bridge. tooSavvy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 The alternator bearings always went on mine .....but i did have a another 126 that was running on 1pot ... It could backfire to order !!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Honda Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 The break was fairly clean and the metal is thick enough for a good weld. It's always a bit easier when welding to a manifold. There's a lot less chasing of holes. Disappointed with the lack of flange gag there 2/10. Carried on with exhaust.... Welded up fine. Not the tidiest but i don't care. Too tidy. Needs to be more half-arsed: It was going so well I decided to slow down the pace by attempting to sever my thumb off. Aye, you want to be careful using the Dramal 4® (https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x6k3cze , 6m20s in) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOD500 Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 Nothing less than a vajazzle will tidy up that flange. Eddie Honda 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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