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The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Now in sharleys hands


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Posted

Looking around, there isn't much in the way of tuning options for the 1098 either.

bmc1100.jpg

Posted

Probably mostly describes what to do on Blackpool seafront, while the fresh, salty sea air works lightening the body.

 

There is a performance camshaft that apparently works a fair bit of magic (Swifttune SW5) and twin carbs. However I'm a bit loathed to do too much to it, as it runs so sweetly. Plus, even after tuning, it'll still be a very slow car by modern standards. Tuning it will bring it up to similar performance levels as a Ka 1.3. Which aren't exactly known for their blistering performance.

Guest Hooli
Posted

Oddly enough a lot of engines this sort of age with twin SU carbs have them replaced by one big carb when tuned....

Posted

In other news, I'm collecting an engine crane and stand tomorrow. Pretty excited! Hopefully will have time at the weekend to do some heavy lifting.

  • Like 3
Posted

The twin carbs on my MGB are a right faff to tune. I'm looking forward to only having one to deal with on this. The HS2 on it looks so diddy and cute in comparative to the two HS4 on the MGB!

 

I actually have a spare HS4 carb I bought to pull apart and play around with. Maybe I should rebuild that, get an appropriate needle (I have no idea which though) and fit that on with a new cam. Someday...

Guest Hooli
Posted

Needle & jet I think need to be picked as pairs. I'm not sure on that though, my understanding of it is the needle controls part throttle & the jet size takes over above about 3/4 throttle.

Posted

Probably mostly describes what to do on Blackpool seafront, while the fresh, salty sea air works lightening the body.

 

 

No, it's full of Downton/Speedwell heads and LCB zorts. Which reminds me, didn't they pep up one of these in the AA Book of the Car?

Posted

I heard something somewhere a long time ago that the 1098 head on a 1275 block with a different cam improves performance, due to the flow characteristics of the 1098 ports.

 

Strange, as I heard the head design of the A series to have "all the free breathing characteristics of a terminal asthmatic".

 

I say run it as built and enjoy.

 

Phil

  • Like 2
Posted

I don't see your need, but I can supply the above article if you wish.

It's about 2" thick though and will distract you from the job in hand.

Guest Hooli
Posted

Small car mag did an article on tuning one of these (was a 1275 I think) for high torque back in the 60s/70s.

Posted

You could get a 2 door super-deluxe, but only with the 1275 engine.  Or you could get an 1100 4 door super-deluxe.  Just not an 1100 2 door super-deluxe.

 

Those lifting brackets are designed for the rocker cover bolts, although no reason not to use them on the head bolts.  I've used them to lift countless ado16 and allegro engines and never bent a rocker shaft or bolt; I do use them 180deg rotated from how you've installed them though; with the lifting bits to the inside of the rocker bolts

  • Like 2
Posted

If it is of any use to anyone, I have a head which I think is off an 1100 (therefore presumably 1098) which was intended to improve an 850 mini. It has been carefully* stored in a cellar for about 42 years.

Posted

Are you going for the SGS crane? Did me proud and I sold it to a shiter for not much less than I paid

Aye, and I still have it, doing me proud with VW engines. The old Scirocco lump is currently dumping oil around it's ample hips.

SIC, I'm a bit late to the party with this, but where are you?

[Edit] Just seen you've alreadybpicked up an engine crane and stand.

  • Like 2
Posted

All being well, I intend to remove the engine out tomorrow. Any suggestions on how or where to mount the engine to a stand?

 

There is this:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283018205049

But it's a bit pricey for my liking.

 

I've also seen people mount it to the stand using the oil filter and/or alternator bracket points. There is some mention that those points aren't the strongest to mount to.

 

Like this:

https://www.mgexp.com/phorum/file.php?3,file=217692,filename=20131102_155401.jpg

https://www.mgexp.com/phorum/file.php?3,file=217690,filename=20131102_155253.jpg

 

Or this:

https://www.mgexp.com/phorum/file.php?3,file=217313,filename=Addison-20131029-00142.jpg

 

Or:

https://www.mgexp.com/phorum/file.php?3,file=217281,filename=enginebefore.jpg

 

Any suggestions? I don't want to mount it on the flywheel end, as that's where I'll be doing most of my work on it. Would like to get it on the stand asap after removing it, as it allows me to move it around much easier and safer.

Posted

Just use a large upturned milk crate that you've nicked from the float when the milkman isn't looking.

Guest Hooli
Posted

Just sling it on the kitchen worktop, they aren't heavy*

 

 

*once the gearbox is off

Posted

I think Mrs SiC might actually kill him if he tried to take any part of this car inside the house, let alone the engine.

Posted

I'd leave it on the floor, can't fall then.

You've seen what Eric the Car Guy has just done too then?

Posted

Really interesting thread.

 

Check out this pic, I think it's a conversion from Crayford which used the hatch from the MGB GT.

 

Ur0wVQ8.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks for correction Vulg, I'd saved the pic ages ago.

(That split-tailgate Crayford conversion in your link looks fab :-)).

Posted

I'll probably make my own loom to be honest. I tend to get enjoyment out of such things! It also allows me to put a few more fuses in the circuit too. 

 

Please feel free to pop over and change the woefully minimal  fuse box on the Toledo for something modern with blade fuses

  • Like 2
Posted

Not many pictures today as I had mates around to help me pull the engine.

 

We made a couple of mistakes that made our life harder.

 

First attempt was using the leveler. Note the safety footwear in operation.

31f80d6c6bfc8d64ba5ba1023c86b6e2.jpg

 

Be careful. Relying on just the engine hooks WILL bend the rocker cover bolts - this method was a carry-over from the Minor and A30 but the added weight of the gearbox &c is too much for the little bolts to bear. You are better off wrapping a lot of rope around and underneath the whole unit.

 

You were 100% correct. They started to bend as we lifted it. Luckily we noticed before they bent over too much. With the rocker cover on, it's not too noticeable. I'm still annoyed that we managed to do it. I suspect the lifting setup was simply putting too much side load on them.

 

Attempt two was a bit more successful. Leo (guy in yellow top) had the great idea of using the pegs from the leveler and the chains to do this. I moved the lifting hooks to the cylinder head bolts and removed the splash panel bracket. Ensuring I re-torqued them to 40 lb-ft after.

8d1bc83166f3e789ebabb5059f3dec68.jpg

 

What that picture doesn't show is the right fight to get it to this stage. Second mistake was that I jacked the car up. This made it really hard to tilt the engine enough to clear the back of the remote gear change selector.

 

Third mistake was that I wish I removed everything off the front of the engine. The distributor was perilously close to getting bashed on the front. Also the alternator and starter motor kept catching on the slam panel.

 

Anyway after a lot of jiggery, pokery with the jack, manual labour and unscrewing bits of engine, we managed to free it. Had to unbolt the front mount completely and the rubber washer for the remote gear change.

b888a1045913be7408e7a89ed05230c7.jpg

 

ea165c434585cb1a8c2aec1e23ace53a.jpg

 

49e9c1f4e4658a0fe8eb7ffb1e61989f.jpg

 

Engine is now on my garage floor - again a massive pain in the arse to get it up over the ridge there. Currently having its oiled drained out.

1dbbf9d88488d0a5f0e2a4edeb791bdf.jpg

 

I wanted to mount it to the engine stand, but this looked like it'll need a bit of though and maybe some long bolts. Still not figured how to mount it to it though. Not 100% happy having it hanging off the side mounts like some of those pictures above. Especially in the wake of bending the rocker cover bolts.

Posted

Good work Si. I hope the 1100 project goes well for you.

 

ADO16 in Morris and Austin spec is such a happy looking little car

Posted

I see you're taking the Australian approach to PPE there.

  • Like 2
Posted

Mrs Dustman has just looked over my shoulder and said "that little purple car looks so smiley and cheerful"

I think I may be permitted an ADO16 in the future.

  • Like 3
Posted

I was very concerned about them running over their feet with the crane! I actually bought safety boots from Lidl today, but still was wearing my knackered old shoes (that Mrs SiC would love to throw away). Faithful old friend these shoes.

d09f7373af6d1e4316cacb03e137d1dc.jpg

 

Took off the clutch cover. Not sure really what I'm looking at really and need to do next. Well I know it's a clutch, flywheel and some bolts. Going by the service manual, it looks like I'll need to buy some more tools to pull it off. This is with the centre spring clip removed and looking at it.

d832f858e4d5d971d8370c6be2272ee8.jpg

 

I guess this bolt is going to need to come out as a next step?

 

It's missing 2 bolts from the clutch cover. Those holes don't tighten up either, so I guess the threads knackered. Going by that and the white line painted on the flywheel, I assume someone has been in here before.

 

I need to watch a few Mini clutch removal videos now. Then do some more staring at the flywheel.

 

Completely knackered right now. Hot, hot day and very tiring trying to man handle this lump out - even with assistance. I'm very glad I had helpers for this job.

  • Like 4

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