Wobstang II

[danthecapriman]

Sweet!!

Glad it’s got here relatively ok! You look well pleased Jo.

 

Is it what you expected it to be so far?

[Mrs6C]

Huzzah!!!!

[richardthestag]

fuck yeah

[Jim Bell]

Badass.

 

10 stars in a 5 star world.

 

A+ shipping.

[PhilA]

Very good! More impressive was being able to know where it was. I'm surprised they didn't disconnect the battery before shipping it but then again there's a lot to load and that's a lot of pfaff. Hopefully not too much damage and a fairly easy fix. Was the wiring loose?

 

Phil

[Bren]

[eddyramrod]

Thank goodness!

[Conrad D. Conelrad]

Hooray! It looks awesome. 

[Guest Hooli]

YeehaR!

[PhilA]

That looks like it's been changed fairly recently.. may have been a problem previously. Time to grab the multimeter and a wiring diagram.

 

Phil

[danthecapriman]

Try it after making sure nothings still shorting out. Worst case it’s burnt out the solenoid but they cost £fuckall if you do.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1975,mustang+ii,5.0l+302cid+v8,1134458,electrical,starter+solenoid,4188

[Mrs6C]

I see you baby

shakin' that (harn)ass

shakin' that (harn)ass

shakin' that (harn)ass?

[PhilA]

Heh, if blinkers don't blink, wiggle wiring rythmically so they do.

 

That is very... American

[vulgalour]

This might be a Beko-level job from what you describe.  I'm sure we can team up to offer advice where required.

[Bren]

I would pull the rad and flush it properly.

[Guest Hooli]

If you take the hoses off the rad you should be able to flush most of it out like that & flush the block too.

 

As for the wiring, the fuseable link is designed to save everything else if there is a short, so it should just be a case of replacing it. They normally are just metal, but it's got a higher resistance than normal wire so it gets hot & melts like a fuse before the rest of the wiring harness.

[The Moog]

Dishwasher tablets are normally a good way to clean up cooling system

[Datsuncog]

Dishwasher tablets are normally a good way to clean up cooling system

 

I've heard this advice mentioned a couple of times now on these fair pages - what's the best method to achieve this?

 

(Jo - don't mean to hijack your thread of sheer Shitestang awesomeness, just curious!)

[richardthestag]

back flush is what you need on that rad. looks pretty gank though. decades of running water with no corrosion inhibitor

 

expect the heater matrix to be just as nasty.

 

to back flush

 

1. remove thermostat if indeed one is fitted and refit cover

2. set interior heater to hot

3. disconnect top rad hose from rad, connect it to the thermostat housing and point it upwards

4. stick garden hose into top rad hose so you are shooting water straight into the thermostat housing

5. turn hose on and check that water comes out of the top of the rad

6. start engine and run it like this for 30 mins or so

 

it really shouldnt over heat because it has a constant total loss supply off cold water but keep an eye on it

 

looking at the crud in the top of the rad you might need some industrial declag in the cooling system first to loosen all the stuff. and then back flush it

[garbaldy]

Not feeling too good today,I think yesterday was just far too exciting

 

 

Oh dear buyers remorse kicked in ????

 

Let's see some pics then now that it's home safe and sound.

 

Edit: the question marks are ment to be a smiley by the way as in a joke.

[Uncle Jimmy]

Can't imagine there were any US cars without power steering by that time.

Anyway...thank fuck it's arrived

Look forward to pics and progress reports.

[bezzabsa]

why not try the patented Hub nut Cheap Coke trick for the heater and assorted gubbins??

[Mally]

back flush is what you need on that rad. looks pretty gank though. decades of running water with no corrosion inhibitor

 

expect the heater matrix to be just as nasty.

 

to back flush

 

1. remove thermostat if indeed one is fitted and refit cover

2. set interior heater to hot

3. disconnect top rad hose from rad, connect it to the thermostat housing and point it upwards

4. stick garden hose into top rad hose so you are shooting water straight into the thermostat housing

5. turn hose on and check that water comes out of the top of the rad

6. start engine and run it like this for 30 mins or so

 

it really shouldnt over heat because it has a constant total loss supply off cold water but keep an eye on it

 

looking at the crud in the top of the rad you might need some industrial declag in the cooling system first to loosen all the stuff. and then back flush it

 

I'm with you a far as no5, but if you run the engine does it not try to fire the water back out of the top hose?

Just asking, never tried it.

[The Moog]

I've heard this advice mentioned a couple of times now on these fair pages - what's the best method to achieve this?

 

(Jo - don't mean to hijack your thread of sheer Shitestang awesomeness, just curious!)

Literally lob one or two dishwasher tabs in coolant. Run it with them in for a while. Then remove and flush through. Should get out most of the shite floating around.

[cort16]

The amount of shite that came out my cortina cooling system was scary. I don’t have a tap at my lockup so was using 5 litre bottles of water and a funnel . I captured it all and put it back in the bottles so I didn’t kill any kittens and when it settled there was so much crap in there .

 

If you take the rad out, block the bottom outlet fill it with water and unplug the bottom outlet. If it dumps it pretty much straight out youre good, if it takes longer you’ve got some blockages.

[Bren]

7 and 33 please.

[Mally]

You need someone close by who can work a multi meter, test light and a bit of wire.

If the fuse link has blown it can be bridged with  another fuse or fused link.

If battery is old type you should loosen/remove the caps for charging, but be careful of sparks which can cause nasty explosion. Would use the booster pack to start it first maybe.

Must be one of us within reach of you. 

Car electrics scare many of us. You are not alone 

[DodgeRover]

Where abouts are you? I'm sure someone will be close enough to lend a hand

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Have a 1974 Mustang II road test along with some other magnificence.

 

[vulgalour]

If you're concerned about flames, don't do anything alone and have someone on standby ready to disconnect electrics and/or use a suitable fire extinguisher.  It probably won't be needed, but if it is then you've got it to hand immediately.

 

An extremely brief hunt online pulled up this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fusible-Link-Wire-Assembly-Green-FORD-D3AZ-14526-P/263546247059 which I think is what you're after?  If not, it might help find something.  From the number of results from just typing in "Mustang II Fusible Link" suggests this is a fairly common, but not terminal, problem.